Returning to the tennis beat for 10 days has gotten in the way of my wine blogging. But, having said that, there’s no place I’d rather spectate than at River Oaks Country Club, where Riley Opelka won the Fayez Sarofim & C. U. S. Men’s Clay Court Championship over John Isner in a compelling battle of the biggest men in tennis. So, no I’m not complaining. I had a splendid time.
Now, however, lacking a lead wine topic, I’m stealing one today straight from the Houston Chronicle, written by Annie Blanks, who covers Texas for the Report for America program working out of the San Antonio Express News, the Chron’s partner Hearst paper. Blanks did an excellent job of summing up what the wine industry has meant for the Hill Country in the 21st century.
Her most eye-popping fact? In 2011, there were 35 winery permits active in the region. By 2021, there were 254. Spirit production has grown exponentially, too. Five distilleries had active permits in 2011. By 2021, the number had grown to 71. Breweries have increased from five to 49 over the same time frame. More than 1,500 acres are under vine today, compared to 450 a decade ago.
Banks’ closing quote was given to her by my friend Bob Young, the Bending Branch Estate owner. Asked why things have gone so swimmingly for his property near Comfort, he replied: “The elevation is higher here, the drainage is good and the soil is good for growing grapes. Plus, it’s beautiful.” He is, of course, correct on all counts.
I’ll be catching up with Young and others in the Texas Fine Wine group via a Zoom tasting Thursday night that’s being hosted locally by my buddy and fellow blogger, Russ Kane, a.k.a., the Texas Wine Slinger. Can’t wait.
Sippin’ with Sporty
White
* 2020 Wander & Ivy Chardonnay California – The concept seems gimmicky, but it works. Each of the stylish glass bottles represents a hearty pour and all the wines, made from organically grown grapes sourced from a variety of locations, are quite good, although it was the chardonnay that impressed me the most. It’s light, bright and flavorful, perfect for H-town this time of the year. $63.92 for eight single-serve bottles at wanderandivy.com.
Rosé
* 2020 Saint-Pierre de Mejans Cuvée 1118 – This classic Provençal pink, a complex five-grape blend from the Luberon that was made with the saignee method, had long been one of my favorites before it acquired a Houston connection. Wendy Heineken Gobbi, who grew up in Kingwood, and her husband Jean-Marc purchased the historic property a couple years ago but retained winemaker Brice Doan de Champassak, whose family was the previous owner. The 1118 references the year that historical records first mention the ancient abbey. $19 through aocselections.com
Red
* 2019 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley – Duckhorn’s Goldeneye lineup never disappoints. The dark fruit expresses itself beautifully. It’s a savory and elegant wine that also offers a good bit of value. The vineyards, first harvested in 1997, are in the heart of the Anderson Valley, prime pinot noir country. The property is flown over annually by the migrating Goldeneye ducks, hence the name. $61 at wine.com goldeneyewinery.com
H-town happenings
* Tango & Malbec – Saturday, April 16, at SERCA Tasting Room, 447 Heights Blvd. $50 club members, $65 non-club members. http://www.sercawines.com
* Chateau Montelena wine dinner – Thursday, April 21, at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, 5061 Westheimer. https://www.delfriscos.com/event/chateau-montelena-wine-dinner/?ref=lwe
* Katy Sip N Stroll – Saturday, April 23, at the ARK by Norris Event Center, supporting the Ballard House. $65-$95. https://www.foodandvinetime.com/events
* Wine and cheese pairing workshop benefiting Chronic Fatigue Syndrome – Thursday, April 28, 5-7 p.m. at SERCA Tasting Room, 447 Heights Blvd. $50 per person minimum contribution. http://www.sercawines.com
* Ashes & Diamonds dinner– Thursday, April 28, at the Rainbow Lodge. $195 plus tax and gratuity. marc.borel@rainbow-lodge.com
Jock shorts
Remember Tony Parker? Of course you do. The French star won four championships as a San Antonio Spur and routine broke the Rockets’ hearts. Now, he’s in the wine business, having partnered with the famed entrepreneur Michel Reybier who launched the tony La Réserve hotel chain and also owns several prestigious wineries, including the classed-grow property Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux’s St. Éstephe AOC.
It’s Reybier’s recently acquired Provençal winery, Château La Mascaronne, that Parker will be hands-on with. These delightful wines from the Var were first imported to Houston by French Country Wines in Rice Village under the previous owner, the personable American Tom Bové, who had put Miraval on the map before selling that winery to, yes, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie.
The village of Le Duc, where La Mascaronne occupies about a 100 hectares (60 under vine), is only a couple hours from my place in the Ubaye Valley, so at some point I hope to wander down to catch up with Parker. If he puts up a rim – if? – maybe we’ll shoot some hoops, too.
Follow me
* Twitter: @sportywineguy
* Instagram: sportywineguy
* Facebook: Dale Robertson
* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Folks to follow
* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com) – In a piece for Galveston Monthly, Sandra goes deep with the pinot gris grape and its many expressions, both stylish and geographic.
* Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger features the Texas Heritage Vineyard, owned by Susan and Billy Johnson and located on the Route 290 Wine Trail just east of Fredericksburg.
* Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – With Russia’s unprovoked war on Ukraine becoming more horrific by the day, Jeff writes about contemplating deathon Open That Bottle Night. A must read!
* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com) – My podcast partner in crime, now the former wine director for Roma in the village after what appears to have been a contentious parting, recounts his love affair with Vinitaly, which he won’t be attending this year. He also noteed that, on Monday, April 11, on the occasion of the Vinitaly wine trade fair in Verona, the Brunello Consortium, in partnership with the Chianti Classico and Bolgheri consortia, will be holding an auction of large formats and prized vintages to benefit Ukrainian refugees in Italy. The event, “Vini per la Pace” (“Wines for Peace”), will include 30 rare lots.
The Sporty Wine Guy 