In case you missed it, the following ran in the Sept. 7 Flavor Section of the Houston Chronicle. 

Galveston natives have an acronym that’s all their own. It’s BOI, which, of course, means “born on Island.” Matthew Massey is a BOI – Galveston Ball class of 2002, too – and also a local boy who made good. How good? Massey, at the age of 39, is the first Texan, never mind Galvestonian, to launch a for-real French champagne brand of his own.

The wine is called Madame Zéro, but don’t be fooled by that seemingly negative number, which only approximates its next-to-nothing sugar content (less than .05 grams per five-ounce pour). This is a big-league bottle of bubbles at every level, a serious wine conceived of and nurtured by a serious young man, that also represents exceptional value. At $56.99 – that’s Spec’s cash price – Massey’s sparkling lady way over-delivers.

OK, you’re probably rolling your eyes right now. Don’t. The obsessively detailed-oriented Massey left nothing to chance with his seemingly pie-in-the-sky project, saying, “I’m very hands-on with everything we’re doing. I have a passion for champagne and, to get it right, you can’t just go hire someone to take care of things. To carry out a vision, you have to understand every part of the process.”

His timing could have been better, what the COVID-19 pandemic which created unforeseen headaches every step of the way. In normal times, all systems would have been go by the end of 2020. But there proved to be a hidden blessing in the pandemic: He got to age his cuvée for an extra year, holding off the release until December of 2021.  

“Not easy on cash flow,” he conceded. “Nothing about this project has been easy.  We’ve had a lot of things we’ve had to mitigate, but it’s made us a lot stronger for when we do end up having easier times ahead.”

Even the famous houses have confronted huge challenges with the supply chain, from the bottles to the cages to the labels. Imagine what it was like for an upstart outsider without an iota of street cred when he first touched down in Champagne. But Massey wouldn’t take “non” for an answer.

Most importantly, after considerable homework and legwork trying to understand the myriad nuances of many of the 319 champagne villages, he found the right team, a grape-grower and a winemaker, in one of his favorite towns, Vertus, in the Côtes des Blancs. Vertus offers outstanding terroir for chardonnay – his favorite varietal – delivering fruit that hits squarely in his personal sweet spot, neither heavy nor austere.

Straight from the chute, his inaugural extra-aged Blanc de Blancs earned a silver medal in the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo’s Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition. Already, aside from Spec’s, the wine can be found at MAD Houston – his first on-premise account – Brasserie 19, DaMarco, Mastro’s, 1751 Sea and Land and Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. He’s hardly finished, either. A rosé is coming in the fall and a vintage wine will follow sometime within the next 24 months.

But, to be sure, there was nothing predictable about Massey’s path to sparkling wine Nirvana. Conceding that his back story “is pretty wild,” he explained, “The beginning is really important. There was a ton of love but not a lot of money in my family. My dad was in the Navy. He was in port (in Galveston) and met my mom (also a BOI) through mutual friends. She followed him to Spain, to Florida, to a lot of other places. They wanted to make a life for themselves on the island, but neither of them had a college education.”

His father Dan, as blue collar and salt-of-the-earth as they come, “built our house with his bare hands,” Massey said proudly. “We didn’t even have carpet, or AC. Hey, he sold his Harley to pay for the kitchen cabinets. We were kind a roughing it in the early days. But as I got older, I really wanted to see the world, so I started working at the San Luis Hotel as a valet parker when I was still in high school. I was really into cars and was trying to buy my first one.”

Fortuitously, the ways things turned out, that job didn’t last long. It seems the actress Sandra Bullock pulled in one evening with a small entourage and he took their luggage upstairs. The group then asked the 18-year Massey to chauffeur them to where the action was. Naturally, he agreed. Wouldn’t you? Finding the keys to the hotel’s Bentley at the valet stand and with no manager on duty, he headed out, Bullock and friends happily in tow.

The hotel’s management wasn’t pleased, to say the least.

He next landed at Luigi’s, the popular Italian restaurant on Galveston’s strand. It was there, he said, “that I got really big into trying to understand wine. I was underage, but I tasted a lot of wine with the older guys.” A gig at Sullivan’s Steakhouse in the Galleria area and then Zula in downtown Houston further expanded his wine horizons. But . . .

“I told my best friend, Kelly Finn, ‘Dude, we’ve got to turn the chapter on restaurants,’” he said. “’We’ve never been anywhere. We’ve got to visit the great wine regions. We’ve got to find a way to travel.’”

Massey contemplated a career in wine distribution – until he found out how poorly entry-level positions paid.

“I had my ah-ha no moment,” he said, laughing.

Although his degree from the University of Houston was in marketing, Massey soon finagled what proved to be a lucrative position with a global oil-and-gas company, “doing sales, presentations, that kind of stuff. It helped fund my passion.”

In the end, it would be bubbles that captured his fancy because he saw a way forward to make his wine unique. Or to use his own hyphenated word, “non-conformist.” Aging a non-vintage champagne for a minimum of five years couldn’t be less conformist. Most rest for closer to 15 months, with up to 12 grams of sugar added during same. For a workout maven like Massey, a buffed 6-2, 195-pounder, that level of dosage was unfathomable.

“We had to get away from adding sugar,” he said, explaining that he wanted a champagne made in a style that spoke to his personal ethos. Also, he’s wont to say, “transparency is at the forefront of our brand.”

To wit, on Madame Zéro’s back label, you can find calories per five-ounce serving (100), the carbs (1.5 grams) and the fat content (0). Ditto protein (also 0). No matter. With the dearth of sugar, it’s practically a health drink.        

And one that’s made, Massey insists, “with zero compromise.”

Raising a glass to . . . Del Harris

The new Hall-of-Famer coached the worst Rockets team in history (yes, even worse than the recent Rockets teams) back 1982-83. But that wasn’t his fault, believe me. He has positively impacted many of the greatest players of the modern era over half a century and he’s still in the game at the age of 85, serving as vice president of the Dallas Mavericks’ G-League team. Del was, and remains, a helluva nice guy, too. Cheers, coach!    

And to . . . Casper Ruud

The young Norwegian, who reached his first ATP World Tour final at River Oaks in 2019, lost his second Grand Slam final of 2022 at the U.S. Open Sunday, but he made a lot of new fans with his sportsmanship when he gave back what proved to be crucial point early in the final against Carlos Alcaraz. It came on a double bounce the umpire missed. Alcaraz went on to claim his first major title and become tennis’ youngest top-ranked male player ever. Both guys should win multiple Slams going forward. A new age beckons.     

Sippin’ With Sporty

    Pink

2021 Acumen Napa Valley Mountainside — Philip Titus’ personal winemaking acumen, best expressed in Acumen’s excellent cabs over the past decade, led to his crafting a predictably compelling rose from the winery’s Atlas Peak fruit. I’d rather not pay so much for a pink wine, but I’ll make an exception for this gem. I loved the bright red fruit flavors. It’s just a beautiful, immensely satisfying wine. $35 at http://acumenwine.com

                     White

2020 Cuvaison Méthod Béton –– The name references the fact that this small-lot white fermented in concrete eggs. It’s a blend of two Dijon clones that delivers beautiful aromas with pronounced white peach citrus notes on the palate. It’s equal parts elegant and intensely flavored with white peach and citrus at the forefront. $50 at http://cuvaison.com

                            Red

2018 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de la Tour Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon — One of Napa Valley’s reference standard cabs going back to the 1930s, it rarely disappoints. In awarding a 98-point score, Antonio Galloni called the wine “sensational,” praising it for the luscious red fruit layered with leather and licorice flavors. What he said! Well, what James Suckling and Jeb Dunnuck said, too. Their scores were 98 and a 97+ respectively.$150 at http://bvwines.com

H-Town Happenings

Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival — The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. http://eventbrite.com

Stella’s Wine Bar Symposium — Saturday, Oct. 8, 4 p.m. http://eventbrite.com

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