Sippin’ with Sporty July 2023

Updated July 22

I’ve had a great run of tasting experiences lately, including some remarkable reds. But, sorry, it’s too damned hot to talk about red wine today, although my fellow wine bloggers Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) and Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) both ferreted out smart options as you’ll read below. Anyway, these were my favorite bottles of bubbles and rosés, plus a lovely debut sauvignon blanc from my old friends at Alexander Valley Vineyards.

BUBBLES

Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra-Brut

From the winemaker: “A straw gold color and very fine bubbles. Its delicate hue comes from to the use of a high percentage of chardonnay (33 percent) and of the first pressing only. The first aromas reveal the citrus character of the chardonnay, such as lime and grapefruits. Red fruit aromas then come out, including redcurrant, raspberry, morello cherry – typical pinot noir (45 percent). On leaving the wine to open up, candied fruits, even exotic fruits of pinot meunier appear with aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is lively. The nose is confirmed by the first taste, including citrus, almonds, toasted bread and “brioche”… but also redcurrant jelly, and dark fruits like cherry, fig or blackberry. The palate is full, quite long, with a very clean finish. Elegant, but not without complexity, this wine perfectly illustrates the house style.”

From me: Paillard was born in Reims in 1953 into a family already several generations steeped in the champagne trade — but only as grape growers and brokers. He, too, began his career as a broker before, at the age of 27, launching the first new champagne house in his neighborhood in nearly a century. Fourteen years later he had done well enough to purchase his first vineyard, three grand cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Today, his daughter Alice runs the show. Their bubbles are as good as bubbles from Champagne get at this price point.

$60.99 at Spec’s

2015 Artesa Codorníu Grand Reserve Brut

From the winemaker: “Continuing the grand tradition of Cavas Codorniu, which dates back to 1872, this Brut was produced using old world methods, and taking benefit of the incredible quality of the grapes farmed in our beloved region of Los Carneros, Napa Valley. It displays beautiful, fragrant aromas of pear, honeydew and apricot. Uplifting citrus flavors and fine bubbles are wrapped in crisp acidity, yet the round, creamy mouthfeel that comes from the wines years of lees contact persists through a lingering finish. Over time, the sparkling wine will continue to develop complexity.”

From me: A friend introduced me to this sparkler, which is available only through Artesa, and I’ll be internally thankful for that. It’s a tad pricey for what can only be described as an American Cava but still worth every penny.

$60 at http://shop.artesawinery.com

Pierre Spar Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “Salmon pink color with fresh aromas of soft red berries, predominantly strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, round and fruity with hints of peach. The flavors are intense, with lively acidity framed by a well-made structure and delicate bubbles. The finish is smooth, clean and dry.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which score it a 90: “Yeasty mellowness is all that the shy nose gives away. The dark-pink hue of this wine promises body and fruit, which duly appear on the creamy palate. Mellow strawberry and apple pair with gentle freshness. A chalky texture supports the frothy foam while freshness highlights the dry roundness of the finish.”

From me: Maison Pierre Sparr knows its stuff. The Sparrs have been producing cremant since 1680. Made from pinot noir grown in Alsace’s prestigious Hau Rhin, it’s a superb bargain. It’s yet another bottle of excellent bubbles introduced to me by a friend. No man is an island, right?

$21.99 at Whole Foods

ROSÉS

Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2021

From the winemaker: “A pink appearance like raspberry, expressive nose with notes of little red berries. On the palate, the wine is very balanced and in line with the nose. The palate is full with a long length. Good acidity provides a tense finale. Beautiful complexity, fine, fresh, fruity and elegant.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “Pale garnet in color and gorgeously perfumed with blossoms and watermelon, this crisp, blackberry-flavored rosé juxtaposes zesty black fruit flavors against a deep, penetrating undertone of crushed stone and spice. A stately expression of Tavel that’s likely to drink beautifully year-round.”

From me: Tavel’s are unique because it’s France’s only AOC permitted to produce rose and rose only. Trinquevedel owner Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm these vineyards, which were purchased along with a ramshackle chateau by his great-grandfather in 1936. But it took 24 more years to get the grapes up to snuff. Note that it was Louis XIV who first put Tavel on the map. The pink wines from the sunny region were almost all the Sun King drank.

$19.79 from http://wine.com

2022 Scaia Rosato Veneto

From the winemaker: “This Rosato is a pink-hued wine made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella grape variety that is not often seen on its own. It’s fresh and floral and delightfully refreshing.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “A pale, tight and nervy rosé with aromas and flavors of apricot skin and orange peel. Medium-bodied with super-clean, crisp flavor. Nicely done.”

From me: The Scaia project, begun in 2006, was established by the four brothers behind Tenuta Sant’Antonio in eastern Valpolicella with the aim of creating wines with a modern style not constricted by the denomination system. Why Scaia? That’s a word in the Veronese dialect for crumbs, like little pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that break off the large block, which the soil resembles. It’s thought to impart a higher acidity and bolder fruit character to the wines.

17.99 at http://wine.com

WHITE

2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “There are aromas of tropical fruits, passion fruit, green apple, grapefruit and melon. Bright acidity is followed by fresh juicy flavors of citrus – lime, grapefruit, and lemongrass, along with a slight minerality. It’s a lively wine bottled with a stelvin closure to lock in the freshness.”  

From me: The newest member of the AVV family — a double gold medalist in the 2023 North Cosat wine Competition — it was made from fruit grown in the Croft Vineyard, a unique parcel on the southern edge of the Alexander Valley that sits in a saddle 700 feet above the valley floor, allowing the fog from the coast to penetrate early in the morning. That cools off the vines and extends the hang-time for the grapes. Et voilà!

$24 at http://shop.avvwine.com (Or $26 at Porta’Vino)

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 26, at R-C Ranch. http://eventbrite.com $100

An Evening with Ridge Vineyards’ David Gates: 6:30-8 p.m., Thursday, July 27, at Vault & Vino. RSVP to JAMESBARLOW@SPECSONLINE.COM $50

Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Thanks to my teaching gig at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, I’ve been making at least two or more trips to the region every year for the last eight vintages. That’s been great news for my Jewish boy stomach: Piedmont is home to what is arguably my favorite dish of all times — vitello tonnato . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “As long as it’s 76 F inside, I can pretend that it is late October with the low-humidity wind coming nicely out of the north. But, now… what wine? After a search of my wine cooler, I found it…”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

Embarking on a catchup pinot noir tasting, the DC writes: “I am currently experiencing a phenomenon that I could not have fathomed a decade ago: I am awash in samples. According to my inventory, I am currently hovering around 200 bottles that were sent to me to taste. Since I am a bit of a math geek, I did some calculations: If I average going through 15 bottles a week (three a day—I try not to “work” on the weekend), that comes out to about 13 weeks of wine . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “If you’ve followed my adventures to Oregon wine country here and here (to name a couple) you know that I’ve got mad love for the wines of the entire state! Since the dreaded ‘Rona reared its ugly head, there has been so much going on there with some really notable changes. Of course, we were all locked down and some of it sorta went unnoticed. Emerging from the pandemic, the changes have continued. One of the big changes has been the creation of additional Willamette Valley AVAs. American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) is just a fancy way of saying a designated region. And for Oregon, it’s a big deal . . .”

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