Travels with Me and Pablo

Mark your calendars. My friend Pablo Valqui, an experienced tour operator, and I have officially partnered up on our first food-and-wine travel adventure, set for the South of France from May 24 through June 4 next year.    

We’ll be spending four days in Provence at the outset — including a day trip up to the gorgeous Ubaye Valley where the Robertsons “settled” 25 years ago — then heading to Languedoc-Roussillon before circling back through the Southern Rhone Valley and wrapping up with two nights in Nice. Highlights follow:

Food and wine: 

* Welcome dinner in the gorgeous gardens of La Table du Pigonnet in the center of Aix-en-Provence (www.hotelpigonnet.com).

* Pairing dinner at Domaine Gerard Bertrand’s Château l’Hospitalet south of Narbonne near the Mediterranean shore (chateau-hospitalet.com), then a sunset visit to a charming “crab shack” on the Grazel Lagoon near Gruissan. 

* Dinner at the Michelin-starred L’Oustelet on the plaza in Gigondas (loustalet-gigondas.com)

* Tastings at Saint-Pierre de Mejans in the Luberon (saintpierredemejans.com), Château La Mascaronne in the Var (chateau-lamascaronne.com), Domaine de Mourchon above Seguret (www.domainedemourchon.com), Chêne Bleu in the shadow of Mt. Ventoux (chenebleu.com) and Château de Saint-Cosme in Gigondas (saintcosme.com), plus a few other serendipitous stops.     

* A chef-prepared grand aperitif/tasting hosted by yours truly at our home above Barcelonnette (ubaye.com).

* A coastline tour from Nice to Monte Carlo, followed by a festive farewell to La Belle France dinner on our final night.

Culture:

* A tour of Marseille, France’s oldest and most diverse city.

* A tour of the historic Fontfroide Abbey, one of France’s most beautiful, with lunch in the charming restaurant there (fontfroide.com).   

* A tour of Sisteron’s famous Citadel, towering above the Durance River in Haute Provence (provence-alpes.coteazur.com).

Our price is $7,290 per person — maximum of 10 folks, to keep things intimate — and will include all wining, dining, lodging and transportation from the time you get off the plane in Marseille until you board another in Nice. Our hotels will each be superior class, yet unique in their own special ways.   

Official inquiries should be made to Valqui at info@gourmettours.biz, but don’t hesitate to reach out to me, too at sportywineguy@outlook.com

Banner Year!

In recent post, I spoke of the 60th and 50th anniversaries being celebrated in 2022 by Alexander Valley Vineyards and Jordan Winery respectively. But Jordan is hardly alone in marking its half-century in business. It seems 1972 was the most magical of years in the modern history of the California wine industry.

Jordan’s Sonoma County neighbor, Dry Creek Vineyards, also came on line and the Napa Valley scene exploded with Caymus, Silver Oak, Diamond Creek, Clos du Val, Burgess, Mount Veeder, Rutherford Hill, Smith-Madrone and  Sullivan Rutherford Estate releasing their inaugural vintages.

Up in Calistoga, Jim Barrett and Ernie Hahn purchased Chateau Montelena, which had sat dormant since Prohibition. A year later, of course, Barrett’s first Chardonnay release conquered the French in the “Judgment of Paris.” California has been front and center on the world’s wine map ever since.  

Tasting Texas

Tickets have gone on sale for the Texas Hill Country Wineries Texas Wine Month passport event running throughout the month of October. With the purchase of a digital passport, wine lovers can visit up to four of the 45 participating wineries per day while receiving discounts on bottle purchases. Passport tickets are $120 per couple or $85 for an individual with $5 from each ticket sold going directly to the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund  To date, more than $55,500 has been awarded to 47 Texas students working towards a degree in viticulture, enology or hospitality.  Go  to https://texaswinetrail.com/texas-wine-month to secure your tickets.

Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Honefenger

The former Houstonian, who played a variety of roles in our wine community for many years, has resettled in Portland with a new wife and become a winemaker. Honefinger’s Wild Child Winery has a Gamay and a Pinot Noir on offer for $28 with more Willamette Valley wines coming soon. He’ll be visiting Houston next week, so I’m hoping to catch up with him. Check out his website: wildchildwinecompany.com      

Pouring one out for . . . Steve Worster

Before there was Earl Campbell, there was Steve Worster. Big Woo was a load, too, believe me. Like the Tyler Rose became in the mid-1970s, Worster was The Man for Texas Longhorns teams that won 30 consecutive games and two national championships in 1968-70. He made the Wishbone offense — but the Wishbone offense made him, too. Unlike Campbell, a first-ballot Hall-of-Famer, he never found stardom as a pro. In fact, he never played a down in the NFL.      

Sippin’ with sporty

Bubbles 

Madame Zéro Champagne – You’ll be reading a lot more about Matthew Massey in my blog going forward, but I wanted to introduce to this outstanding bottle of bubbles post haste because, well, as Charles Barkley used to say, “Life is short and death is long.” The “zero,” of course, references the dosage, or lack thereof, that arguably makes Massey’s all-chardonnay sparkler, with almost no sugar in the mix, a health drink. That was his intention. The 39-year-old Galveston native – yep, Ball High School – is a workout nut, too. In short, he’s an amazing story and I can’t wait to tell it. But don’t wait to buy the wine, a for-real value a $56.99 on the shelf at Spec’s.               

Rosé

2020 Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence– Sacha Lichine’s famous Provençal pink, a major player in the world’s 21st century rosé renaissance, never disappoints. The critic James Suckling scored this vintage a 92, touting the grenache, cinsault and vermentino blend’s “very pale apricot-pink color (with) delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones (that) follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth.” Note that Suckling also gave the 2021, which you’re probably seeing more of on the shelves these days, a 92. The gorgeous estate, acquired by Lichine in 2006, is northeast of St. Tropez overlooking La Vallée d’Esclans with the Mediterranean coast just visible in the distance. 

White

2020 Kosta Browne One-Sixteenth Chardonnay Russian River Valley – Kosta Browne is, of course, best known for its pinot noirs. Fact is I’d never tasted one of the chardonnays until this one. In a word, wow! The winemaker, Julien Howsepian, says his wine “is rich and lean with laser focus, and a minerality that calls to mind a ‘salt of the earth’ country ballad. Excellent structure, weight, and super balanced–a delicious heartfelt chardonnay.” The fruit was sourced from eight name-brand Russian River Valley vineyards and six of the most famous chardonnay clones were utilized. What could possibly go wrong? Absolutely nothing, it seems. But it’s pricey – $99 at wine.com

Red

2018 Papa Pietro-Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – Another personal “discovery,” this one. (I gotta get out more!) Also a blend of multiple vineyards and clones – vinification of each was done separately – the juice spent 11 months in French oak, a third new. The wine packs a hefty flavor punch with red fruit galore. And the winery’s back story might even be better than the wine. Founded in Ben and Yolanda Papapietro’s San Francisco garage, the winery became a viable business in 2000 and has been earning accolades ever since. Ben’s love of pinot noir dates to his first tasting 1950s French burgundies and he remains inspired by same today. $61 at papapietro-perry.com

H-Town Happenings

Night in Santiago: Camerata, Tuesday, Sept. 6, 6-8 p.m. Free admission. 713-522-8466 or cameratahouston.com

Cheers for Charity benefitting Second Chances: Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Centers at CityCentre. 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10. eventbrite.com

Crack Open the Case night: Exploring Wagner Family Wines: JMP Tasting Room, Humble. 6:30 p.m. Thursday, September 15. Starts at $50. eventbrite.com 

* Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival: The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. eventbrite.com

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Follow these folks, too

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com) – My Podcast partner in crime goes slightly off topic and gets us up to speed on the rescue of a wild boar that got trapped in Milan’s canal system. You can catch our conversations wherever you get your podcasts at “Sporty Wine Guy.”

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com) – Sandra tasted with native Houstonian and newly hatched winemaker Jonathan Honefenger, who has moved to Portland and launched his Wild Child lineup of Oregon wines.

Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger looks at Texas’ 2022 harvest, said to be an excellent one but also one that’s wrapping up early.

* Jeff Kralick (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff runs through a list of wines that have gotten him excited of late.

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com) – Kat also weighs in the 2022 Texas harvest.

The South of France Wine Adventure is a Go — Join us!

Mark your calendars. My friend Pablo Valqui, an experienced tour operator, and I have officially partnered up on our first food-and-wine travel adventure, set for the South of France from May 24 through June 4 next year.    

We’ll be spending four days in Provence at the outset — including a day trip up to the gorgeous Ubaye Valley where the Robertsons “settled” 25 years ago — then heading to Languedoc-Roussillon before circling back through the Southern Rhone Valley and wrapping up with two nights in Nice. Highlights follow:

Food and wine: 

* Welcome dinner in the gorgeous gardens of La Table du Pigonnet in the center of Aix-en-Provence (www.hotelpigonnet.com).

The lagoon

* Pairing dinner at Domaine Gerard Bertrand’s Château l’Hospitalet south of Narbonne near the Mediterranean shore (chateau-hospitalet.com), then a sunset visit to a charming “crab shack” on the Grazel Lagoon near Gruissan. 

* Dinner at the Michelin-starred L’Oustelet on the plaza in Gigondas (loustalet-gigondas.com)

* Tastings at Saint-Pierre de Mejans in the Luberon (saintpierredemejans.com), Château La Mascaronne in the Var (chateau-lamascaronne.com), Domaine de Mourchon above Seguret (www.domainedemourchon.com), Chêne Bleu in the shadow of Mt. Ventoux (chenbleu.com) and Château de Saint-Cosme in Gigondas (saintcosme.com), plus a few other serendipitous stops.     

* A chef-prepared grand aperitif/tasting hosted by yours truly at our home above Barcelonnette (ubaye.com).

* A coastline tour from Nice to Monte Carlo, followed by a festive farewell to La Belle France dinner on our final night.

Culture:

* A tour of Marseille, France’s oldest and most diverse city.

The Abbey


* A tour of the historic Fontfroide Abbey, one of France’s most beautiful, with lunch in the charming restaurant there (fontfroide.com).   

* A tour of Sisteron’s famous Citadel, towering above the Durance River in Haute Provence (provence-alpes-cotedazur.com).

Our price is $7,290 per person — maximum of 10 folks, to keep things intimate — and will include all wining, dining, lodging and transportation from the time you get off the plane in Marseille until you board another in Nice. Our hotels will each be superior class, yet unique in their own special ways.   

Official inquiries should be made to Valqui at pablo@gourmettours, but don’t hesitate to reach out to me, too at sportywineguy@outlook.com.

Banner Year!

In recent post, I spoke of the 60th and 50th anniversaries being celebrated in 2022 by Alexander Valley Vineyards and Jordan Winery respectively. But Jordan is hardly alone in marking its half-century in business. It seems 1972 was the most magical of years in the modern history of the California wine industry.

Jordan’s Sonoma County neighbor, Dry Creek Vineyards, also came on line and the Napa Valley scene exploded with Caymus, Silver Oak, Diamond Creek, Clos du Val, Burgess, Mount Veeder, Rutherford Hill, Smith-Madrone and  Sullivan Rutherford Estate releasing their inaugural vintages.

Up in Calistoga, Jim Barrett and Ernie Hahn purchased Chateau Montelena, which had sat dormant since Prohibition. A year later, of course, Barrett’s first Chardonnay release conquered the French in the “Judgment of Paris.” California has been front and center on the world’s wine map ever since.  

Tasting Texas

Tickets have gone on sale for the Texas Hill Country Wineries Texas Wine Month passport event running throughout the month of October. With the purchase of a digital passport, wine lovers can visit up to four of the 45 participating wineries per day while receiving discounts on bottle purchases. Passport tickets are $120 per couple or $85 for an individual with $5 from each ticket sold going directly to the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund  To date, more than $55,500 has been awarded to 47 Texas students working towards a degree in viticulture, enology or hospitality.  Go  to https://texaswinetrail.com/texas-wine-month to secure your tickets.

Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Honefinger 

The former Houstonian, who played a variety of roles in our wine community for many years, has resettled in Portland with a new wife and become a winemaker. Honefinger’s Wild Child Winery has a Gamay and a Pinot Noir on offer for $28 with more Willamette Valley wines coming soon. He’ll be visiting Houston next week, so I’m hoping to catch up with him. Check out his website: wildchildwinecompany.com.      

Pouring one out for . . . Steve Worster

Before there was Earl Campbell, there was Steve Worster. Big Woo was a load, too, believe me. Like the Tyler Rose became in the mid-1970s, Worster was The Man for Texas Longhorns teams that won 30 consecutive games and two national championships in 1968-70. He made the Wishbone offense — but the Wishbone offense made him, too. Unlike Campbell, a first-ballot Hall-of-Famer, he never found stardom as a pro. In fact, he never played a down in the NFL.      

Sippin’ with sporty

Bubbles 

Madame Zéro Champagne – You’ll be reading a lot more about Matthew Massey in my blog going forward, but I wanted to introduce to this outstanding bottle of bubbles post haste because, well, as Charles Barkley used to say, “Life is short and death is long.” The “zero,” of course, references the dosage, or lack thereof, that arguably makes Massey’s all-chardonnay sparkler, with almost no sugar in the mix, a health drink. That was his intention. The 39-year-old Galveston native – yep, Ball High School – is a workout nut, too. In short, he’s an amazing story and I can’t wait to tell it. But don’t wait to buy the wine, a for-real value a $56.99 on the shelf at Spec’s.               



Rosé

2020 Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de ProvenceSacha Lichine’s famous Provençal pink, a major player in the world’s 21st century rosé renaissance, never disappoints. The critic James Suckling scored this vintage a 92, touting the grenache, cinsault and vermentino blend’s “very pale apricot-pink color (with) delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones (that) follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth.” Note that Suckling also gave the 2021, which you’re probably seeing more of on the shelves these days, a 92. The gorgeous estate, acquired by Lichine in 2006, is northeast of St. Tropez overlooking La Vallée d’Esclans with the Mediterranean coast just visible in the distance. 


White

2020 Kosta Browne One-Sixteenth Chardonnay Russian River Valley – Kosta Browne is, of course, best known for its pinot noirs. Fact is I’d never tasted one of the chardonnays until this one. In a word, wow! The winemaker, Julien Howsepian, says his wine “is rich and lean with laser focus, and a minerality that calls to mind a ‘salt of the earth’ country ballad. Excellent structure, weight, and super balanced–a delicious heartfelt chardonnay.” The fruit was sourced from eight name-brand Russian River Valley vineyards and six of the most famous chardonnay clones were utilized. What could possibly go wrong? Absolutely nothing, it seems. But it’s pricey – $99 at wine.com.




Red

2018 Papa Pietro-Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – Another personal “discovery,” this one. (I gotta get out more!) Also a blend of multiple vineyards and clones – vinification of each was done separately – the juice spent 11 months in French oak, a third new. The wine packs a hefty flavor punch with red fruit galore. And the winery’s back story might even be better than the wine. Founded in Ben and Yolanda Papapietro’s San Francisco garage, the winery became a viable business in 2000 and has been earning accolades ever since. Ben’s love of pinot noir dates to his first tasting 1950s French burgundies and he remains inspired by same today. $61 at papapietro-perry.com. 



H-Town Happenings

Aslina tasting with winemaker Ntsiki Biyela: Trez Bistro and Wine Bar. 7 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 31. Starts at $50. eventbrite.com 

Night in Santiago: Camerata, Tuesday, Sept. 6, 6-8 p.m. Free admission. 713-522-8466 or cameratahouston.com

Cheers for Charity benefitting Second Chances: Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Centers at CityCentre. 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10. eventbrite.com

Champagne and Caviar Tasting: Potente, 6:30-9 p.m. Wednesday, Sept. 14. $160.31 eventbrite.com    

* Crack Open the Case night: Exploring Wagner Family Wines: JMP Tasting Room, Humble. 6:30 p.m. Thursday, September 15. Starts at $50. eventbrite.com 

* Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival: The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. eventbrite.com

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Follow these folks, too

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com)  – My Podcast partner in crime, who’s a for-real Ph.D. in all things Italian, explores the fascinating history of Italian winemaking in the Middle Ages through the translation of a text he’s currently working on. As for the Podcast, we’ve got a new one up wherever you get yours. Find us at “Sporty Wine Guy.”

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com– Sandra beat me to the punch in writing about Massey and his Madame Zéro champagne. 

Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger’s wines of Texas tour continues with his deep take on Rustic Spur’s Vineyards 2018 “Gramps” Estate Tannat at Vintner’s Hideaway. 

Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com)Jeff goes through a wide range of French wines, including plenty of bubbles, that has gotten him excited — and, OK, maybe a little tipsy — of  late.  

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com–  Kat takes a trip down memory lane, writing with great fondness about Carneros, the region that piqued her original fascination with wine. It all started with a glass of Etude Pinot Noir. 

 

Good wine folks on my agenda this week!

I’ve got a fun week ahead, meeting up with two Houston vintners from very different walks of life, Jean-François Bonneté and Matthew Massey.

I’ve known Bonneté for a couple years now, although the onset of the pandemic coincided with our meeting so we haven’t had much time to break bread and sip wine together. I’ll be breaking bread with him at Étoile on Tuesday. As for the Galveston-born Massey, who did well enough in oil and gas to launch his own Madame Zero (madamezero.com) line of champagne, our paths have yet to cross, but we’ll finally be tasting together on Thursday at Vault & Vino in Montrose. He’s gotten great traction with is edgy, uber-dry style of bubbles at some of Houston’s best restaurants.        

Bonneté and his wife Nathalie, who hail from Brittany and Normandy respectfully but met by chance in Houston a number of years ago, founded a wine-and-spirits importing company, BCI, in 2015 (bonnete.com) and also have their own lineup of Liberation of Paris wines, thusly named because of the kindness an American GI showed his father not long after the D-Day landing in route to accomplishing same. 

“From the time I was a child, my father was always telling me I should go to America,”  Bonneté told me in our first conversation. “He really loves this country. But, the funny thing is, he would never tell me why. He didn’t like talking about that time in his life. It was very hard.” 

I’ve done my homework on Massy by reading my friend Sandra Crittenden’s excellent piece on him that ran earlier this summer in Galveston Monthly and can now be found at her winelifehouston.com blog. 

I’ll also be catching up with Amanda Hu,  who’s off to a rousing start representing Riboli Family Wines  (riboliwines.com). A  native of China with a Masters Degree from the University of Houston, she began her career in wine with Southern Glazers and in her spare time helped me heard cats with my group blind tastings during my tenure with the Chronicle. Never had a better righthand person! We’ll be tasting Tuesday evening at Ruggles Black with Neera Parador, the force of nature who keeps that remarkable spot humming while keeping my longtime chef buddy Bruce Molzan in check.         

Take-aways from these conversations will make up a good portion of my next missive. In this one, you see that I’ve added a  new wine-themed — if not necessarily wine-centric — segment to the content mix, tying together my two career professions/passions. Sports and wine of course! 

Raising a glass to . . . Justin Verlander

The historic reference standard for regular-season pitching excellence locally used to be the end of Randy Johnson’s partial-season tenure as an Astro. Over his final seven starts in 1998, the Big Unit went 7-0 with an 1.16 ERA. He gave up only 35 hits over 54.1 innings while striking out 78 vs. 18 walks with two home runs allowed. Yep, just two. However, Verlander’s own 7-0 run since June 24 has somehow raised the bar. Over his 47.2 innings, he has permitted four earned runs for an ERA of 0.76 and a mere 30 hits. His K-to-BB ratio is 47-7 and he, too has given up only a pair of homers, but one of them in his last six starts. The best part, of course, is that V-for-Victory’s seemingly certain Cy Young season is hardly over. Johnson would make only two more starts in an Astros uniform — a pair of post-season losses to the Padres in which the Astros scored two runs behind him — before moving on to Arizona.                 

Pouring one out for . . . Bill Russell

Boston’s big man, the greatest big man ever, invented modern basketball at multiple levels and no sports figure other than Jackie Robinson blazed a more important trail. As the centerpiece of 11 championship teams in 13 seasons, he also re-defined what it meant to be a winner. As an advocate for social justice, he cast a towering shadow as well.        

Breaking a bottle over the head of . . . Vladimir Putin  and Alex Jones

On Britteny Griner’s behalf, vis-a-vis the contemptible Cretin of the Kremlin. What Putin’s Russia has done to her, never mind Ukraine,  is  equal parts travesty and tragedy. Here’s hoping he’ll eventually get what he deserves. As for the morally bankrupt, physically repugnant Jones, hopefully he’ll  soon be fiscally bankrupt after two more juries do the right thing, as did the one in Austin Friday to the tune of $45 million in punitive damages for his awful lies. There’s no hell big enough or hot enough for these two thugs.           

Sippin’ with sporty

Rosé

* 2021 Reserve Saint Marc — Made by the highly respected Foncalieu cooperative in Puichéric in Southwestern France’s Aude region, it’s a lovely, lively pink syrah at a spectacular price, a mere $7.99 at Spec’s. You’d think just the shipping costs would run higher than that. Founded 50 years ago, Foncalieu is a cooperative with some 650 grape growers who farm a combined 10,000 Languedoc acres. Strength in numbers, to be sure.     





White

* 2021 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc — This is the best expression of New World sauvignon blanc I’ve had the pleasure of sampling in a long time. You’ll taste lemons and melons with just a hint of oak in the background. Bordeaux in style with a trace of semillon in the blend, it’s as elegant as it’s flavorful. But we’ve come to expect such a high level of quality from the historic estate, which was established in 1882. A hundred years later, its first vintage cabernet was released. $43.59 at Spec’s   





Red

* 2017 Ducru Beaucaillou — Full disclosure: I don’t routinely spring for wines at such a lofty price point ($217.89 at Spec’s) But a most kind friend brought a bottle to dinner one evening and . . . wow. Six national wine critics gave it scores between 98 and 95. It’s hard to imagine a better example of a modern Bordeaux, and it’s worth every penny. Mostly tiny-yield cabernet fruit (merlot makes up 10 percent of the blend), this gem from Saint-Julien should age magnificently, although I wouldn’t hesitate to open another bottle tonight, were itoffered to me. Now accepting donations!       




H-Town Happenings

* Sullivan Rutherford Estate tasting with Certified Wine Educator James C. Barlow of Spec’s and Sullivan’s Dan Horsch — Vault and Vino, 6:30-8 p.m. Tuesday Aug. 9. $55. jamesbarlow@specsonline.com

* The Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting — Bayway Cadillac of The Woodlands, 6-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 12. $65-$125. wineandfoodweek.com

* Bending Branch wine dinner — The Empty Glass in Tomball, 6:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 16. $105. theemptyglass.com 

* Truly Greek Truly Unique wine tasting — Lakonia Imports tasting room in Humble, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 17. localwineevents.com      

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Follow these folks, too

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com – As mentioned earlier, Sandra’s got the full lowdown on young Mr. Massey and an overview of Spain’s Rioja.  

Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger gives us the skinny on Doug Lewis’ uniquely Texan Chenin Blanc.  

Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – He and his family are traveling in the Loire Valley so he’s off the wine blogging grid for the moment. But he pays tribute to his now 13-year-old son Sebastian that’s well worth a read.   

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com)  – Like Kralik, Parzen has been on vacation visiting his mom in California and, following Kralik’s lead, he most recently posted a lovely piece about his daughter Lila Jane, who turned 9 recently. 

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com– Kat delves into Austria’s wines other than the Gruners that deserve our close attention. 

 

Happy Happy Anniversaries!

Team Jordan  

In a perfect world, I would have made it to California a couple weeks ago to help two of my favorite wineries celebrate milestone anniversaries. But then I nearly took a nasty tumble on the staircase late one night in search of a cold glass of water – yes, dammit, water!!! – and therefore concluded a major lifestyle change was in order. So . . . out with stairs, in with elevators.

High-rise living here we come. Falls ain’t good for old geezers with brand-new hips and a wrecked knee. 

John Jordan

Moves aren’t either, of course. But if not now, when? Anyway, the personal upheaval combined with a newfound fear of flying — these are batsh*t crazy times for the airlines — caused me to miss Alexander Valley Vineyards’ 60th anniversary celebration and a “Summer of Giving” soirée at Jordan. The winery has been hosting a series of these events across the country to celebrate its 50th birthday in turn with supporting worthy causes through the John Jordan Foundation (johnjordanfoundation.org

However, I did get to raise a few glasses Saturday night at Porta’Vino with AVV’s  operations director Harry Wetzel IV, whose namesake grandfather launched the business. And, no, the acorn doesn’t fall far from the oak. The winery is in excellent hands with him and his brother, Rob, who oversees the sales-and-marketing wing. They’ve got this. In fact, Harry arrived with a sauvignon blanc, a first for AVV. It was delicious . . . but not yet available in Texas. Next spring, he promised!  

As for Jordan, it has a couple more dinners planned in August. I might still make it out there, our pending move notwithstanding. Fingers crossed. 

Harry and Maggie Wetzel

While there may older and arguably more iconic California wineries, than Jordan and AVV, the list is a very short one. And their respective properties, both in the cellar and around the grounds, are second to none. They’re practically Alexander Valley neighbors, too. Hank Wetzel’s father, also named Harry, started what became the great AVV adventure when he and his wife Maggie bought their gorgeous real estate without having ever set foot on it in the summer of 1962. The elder Harry, an aviation company CEO, had traveled the world visiting some of its greatest vineyards and had become convinced Sonoma County offered similar potential. Flights from his home in Southern California on Pacific Southwest had dropped to $11.49 per ticket – really – and that made it cheap and easy to cart the family up to the North Coast on a regular basis.

Harry wound up taking over the property owned by Cyrus Alexander, the original homesteader in the neighborhood back in the mid-19th century. The first vines would be planted a year later and the inaugural AVV cabernet sauvignons, made from two 50-gallon barrels, went into bottles in 1968. The rest, as we say, is history.

Harry Wetzel IV

 In case you may have forgotten, AVV’s flagship Cyrus red blend has won an unrivaled four Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo International Wine Competition Grand Champion Best of Show saddles for the 1999, 2006, 2008 and 2014 vintages. We tasted the 2016 Saturday evening and, trust me, it will be a strong contender, too. More kudos to Kevin Hall, one of the longest-tenured winemakers in California who has presided over all of the 

above.        

John Jordan, for his part, was born the same week that his father Tom and his mother Sally closed on their land up the road. Like Harry Wetzel, they were inspired by the vintners and vineyards they had visited in Europe, particularly in France. The Jordans’ high-minded goal was to make a California cab that spoke with a French accent. My first taste of the Jordan came in the mid-1990s and I recall thinking that I was indeed drinking one of Bordeaux’s classed growths.

Mission accomplished.

Tom hadn’t messed around. He hired André Tchelistcheff, already a Napa legend, as consulting enologist, then hired a young fellow named Rob Davis to handle the daily chores. Davis was instrumental in the making of Jordan’s first cab in 1976 and he would stay at the helm through his retirement in 2019.

For the record, I have finally forgiven John and his multi-talented right-hand person, Lisa Mattson, who has become a dear friend, for including Dallas instead of Houston on their paying-it-forward American tour.  

Upcoming Jordan Social Impact Summer dinners, both al fresco on the winery’s gorgeous terrace, are set for Aug. 13 and Aug. 27. Details can be found at jordanwinery.com. And who knows? I might still make it out should a seat at a table remain available. If so, I hope to see you there.     

Note that two wines from both AVV and Jordan are among my nine touts for today. I thought I owed you a few extra ones for being off the blogging grid the last couple of weeks. Sorry!

Sippin’ with sporty

Rosé

Chandon étoile Brut Rosé – A classic blend of chardonnay (47 percent), pinot noir (45) and pinot meunier (8), this pale pink but intensely flavored sparkler tastes of strawberries and lemon with a touch of almond. Founded in the late 1950s in Argentina by Robert-Jean de Vogüe, Chandon launched the California branch of the family’s now-global bubbles business (chandon.com) not long after Jordan’s founding. $39.97 at Total Wine





2021 Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese – AVV’s 16th vintage of its always-enticing rosé profited from a nearly perfect growing season. Tasting of red fruit and watermelon with just a hint of peach, it’s “pure California sunshine in a glass,” suggests long-tenured winemaker Kevin Hall, who started with AVV in 1998. I won’t disagree and neither would the judges at the 2021 California State Fair, who awarded it a nearly perfect score of 99. For Spec’s price of $14.99, it’s a superb value, too. avv.com


2021 Lynmar Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir – The Russian River Valley fruit is a blend of 11 pinot noir clones. The wine, aged for four months in stainless steel, tastes of peaches, pomegranates and hibiscus flower, with a tangy touch of orange zest. The Lynmar Estate, founded four decades ago by Lynn Fritz, borders the western edge of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the Russian River’s largest tributary, and is only 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Lynn Fritz bought his first vineyard, Quail Hill, four years ago. $33 at lynmarestate.com




White

* 2019 Aridus Viognier – The fruit was all estate grown in southeastern Arizona’s Chiricahua foothills and the wine was the end result of a complicated series of experiments (explained in detail at ariduswineco.com) conducted by the wine-making/growing team of Lisa Strid and Scott Dahmer. It aged in a mix of neutral and second-fill French oak, stainless steel and sandstone jar, resulting in a complex, nuanced, super-satisfying summer sipper. $35 at ariduswineco.com





* 2020 Jordan Chardonnay Alexander Valley – A blend of 17 vineyard blocks from six growers, the grape clusters were destemmed and gently pressed at night for a maximum extraction of freshness and acidity. The juice fermented for 12 days in both French oak barrels (54 percent new) and stainless steel tanks. Four months of sur lie aging followed, resulting in a wine with Fuji apple aromas – always the mark of a good vintage according to winemaker Maggie Kruse. $40 at jordanwinery.com (The 2019 is at Spec’s for $31.34)  


* 2021 Lost Draw Cellars Texas High Planes Picpoul Blanc – For me, picpoul blanc, despite its Spanish heritage, is evocative of the South of France because I drank it frequently during my Tour de France years while passing through the Languedoc. But it clearly thrives in the High Plains’ sunshine and semi-rarefied air. Picpoul loosely translates to “kiss of lemon” and that’s definitely the keynote flavor here. Winemaker Chris Bundrett notes the “laser-beam of citrus on the palate, focused, steely, yet juicy.” $35 at lostdrawcellars.com     

Bottom of Form




Red

2018 Pedernales Cellars Texas High Plains Graciano – I can’t decide whether I was more surprised by Lost Draw’s Picpoul Blanc or this delightful red from Pedernales’ winemaker David Kuhlken, who touts “the lovely fruit notes, but also very gnarly, dark, iron and earth.” Spanish in origin like picpoul, graciano is a used in Rioja blends but obviously can take center stage, with syrah and carignan in supporting roles. $45 at pedernalescellars.com


2019 Alexander Valley Vineyards Homestead Red – Winemaker Kevin Hall says he “anchored the blend with rich, concentrated merlot (45 percent), added zinfandel (32) for spicy notes, cabernet sauvignon (8) for elegant structure, grenache (6) for berry flavors, mourvèdre (5) for additional texture and syrah (4) for more bright spicy flavors and floral aromatics.” Yep, that’s six count ‘em six varietals, each of which was fermented and barrel-aged separately “to maximize complexity and broaden the spicy dark fruit, oak and vanilla flavors in the glass.” $23 at shopavv.com




2018 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley – Cab makes up 80 percent of the blend, but merlot (11), petit Verdot (7) and malbec (2) offer their two-cents worth as well. This ageworthy wine spent 13 months in French oak (35 percent new) and underwent 37 months of aging before release. Kruse calls it a “showstopper vintage, with black cherry, boysenberry and black fig aromas jumping out of the glass.” $60 at jordan.com   

H-town Happenings

*Avignonesi Wine Dinner with Gabe Chiocca – Roma, 6 p.m. Wednesday. $89 plus tax and gratuity. romahouston.com  

* Argentine Empanada and Wine Night – SERCA Wines Tasting Room. 5-7 p.m.Saturday, July 30. $40 per person or $120 for four with a bottle of wine. SERCAwines.com

* Gran Corte Reserva Vertical Tasting, 2014 through 2019 vintages — SERCA Wines Tasting Room, 5 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 6. $80 ($64 for Wine Club members) SERCAwines.com    

* Sullivan Rutherford Estate wine tasting with Certified Wine Educator James C. Barlow of Spec’s and Sullivan’s Dan Horsch – Vault and Vino, 6:30-8 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 9. $40. $55. jamesbarlow@specsonline.comjamesbarlow@specsonline.com   

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Other folks to follow

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com– Sandra explores Oregon’s new sub-AVAs.

Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger tells you everything you need to know about the aforementioned Graciano grape. In fact, it was him who generously shared the bottle from Lost Draw Cellars.  

Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff offers his take on the best wines he has tasted recently. His pick of the week? The 2005 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières.  

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com)  – My podcast partner in crime gives us the lowdown on his two favorite Italy-centric wine bloggers, Riccardo Fabbio (Wine Telling Riky) and Kevin Day (Opening a Bottle).    

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com) – Kat salutes the many wonders of the sauvignon blanc-centric whites from Bordeaux.

  

 

 

A Match Made in Food and Wine Heaven

Antonio Gianola
There’s exciting news coming from one of my favorite restaurants and one of my longest-standing local wine friends. Chef Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi of Kata Robata and the Houston Wine Merchant’s Antonio Gianola have put together a menu and pairings for one of the most compelling dinners we’ve seen in these parts in a very long time.

Oops, I said dinner. It’s actually a lunch set for July 30 at Hori’s equal parts hip and sublime sushi, et. Al. spot at Richmond and Kirby. The tariff will be $300 per person. Expensive? Yes. But worth the price? Absolutely, on multiple levels.

As pairings go, Hori and Gianola make for a perfect partnership. The former has long wanted to give his wine program a major upgrade and the latter admits he has missed pulling together events like this one. In what no doubt feels like a previous life, before MS forced him to adopt a more sane work schedule, he was one of the city’s best and brightest young sommeliers. I got to know him circa 2007 when I first started writing a wine column for the Houston Chronicle and he served as Chris Shepherd’s “wine guy” at Catalan on Washington Ave.       

As a wine-buyer in the retail world, Gianola can be creative, too, but he admits he missed the challenge of finding the perfect pairings. A memorable dejeuner at a vigneron’s favorite Sushi hangout in Beaume back in 2019 planted the seed and he spoke to Hori about duplicating the experience not long after he returned to Houston. Kota Robata was already the place where, he said, “my wife and I always celebrate our birthdays and anniversaries.”

Planning began in earnest. Then COVID-19 happened.

Chef Yori / photos by Julie Soefer

Anyway, now it’s a go and the two principles can hardly wait to greet their noontime guests. The wine lineup is Burgundy-centric, not surprisingly given Gianola’s fond memories of that Beaune soirée. And, while he’s proud of each of his six selections, which include a Waris-Larmandie Blanc de Blanc Champagne plus a red from Bordeaux to serve with a hearty beef dish, two are especially close to his heart because they’re from what he calls “quirky producers” who favor hanging onto their wines for a decade or longer before release: the 2010 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes and Daniel-Etienne Defaix’s 2007 Chablis Premier Cru.   

“It’s always special to find Burgundy with age on it,” he said, “and then be able to drink it when it should be drunk.”

Both, he said, are under the radar of Western consumers but are frequently used in high-end pairing dinners in Asia, often served alongside the #fancy likes of Domaine de la RomanéeConti and Domaine Leroy, whose best bottles command four-figure sums. Before coming to Houston, Yori had, in fact, worked at a restaurant in Japan that pioneered pairing sushi dinners with Burgundy.  

“It was incredibly fun and fascinating to have to go back and crack open books and search out terms,” Gianola said. “It’s been quite a long time since I’ve had to do that.”

The big-picture wine ideas evolved quickly. However, despite his fondness for and familiarity with Kata Robata’s cuisine, he admitted, “I’m no expert in way, shape or form. But chef allowed me to come in and taste the entire menu so, instead of just making educated guesses, I was able to really dive into it.

And, while I found the acidity to be a touch high on occasion, they worked incredibly well with the food . . . the wasabi, the soy . . . It was really amazing, actually.”

No doubt.     

More detailed information will be available at katarobata.com in the next day or two. Pay close attention. The 30 to 35 seats figure to be reserved quickly.   

 Travels with Pablo and (maybe) me

I wrote about Pablo Valqui and his Gourmet Tours business (www.gourmettours.biz) in my last post, but I want to keep him – and me – on your front-burner going forward. He’s got two superb Germany-centric wine-and-food extravaganzas already on the books for this September, and we’re also in the early stages of brainstorming an eight-person itinerary for next spring/early summer that will most likely focus on France’s Southern Rhone Valley, the Languedoc and Bordeaux. I would love to hear your thoughts (sportywineguy@outlook.com) on same. At this early juncture, we could custom tailor an adventure specifically for your needs/wants/desires. Autocrats we aren’t!   

Sippin’ with sporty

Rosé

2021 Chène Bleu  – It’s a classic blend of biodamically-grown grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault fruit that was picked five weeks later than most in the Ventoux AOC. Skin-contact maceration followed, given the wine more structure, concentrated flavors and aging potential than you’ll find in garden-variety rosés from the Southern Rhone. The secluded 340-acre Chène Bleu estate, with its thousand-year-old monastery, was largely derelict until 1993, when American Nicole Rolet and her French financier husband Xavier bought the property and lovingly restored it over the next decade. Grapes have been grown on the land not far from Provence’s biggest mountain since the Middle Ages. $42.99 at Houston Wine Merchant (houstonwines.com)

White

2021 Diatom Chardonay Santa Barbara County – Winemaker Greg Brewer gets his fruit from the Los Alamos neighborhood in Santa Barbara County, then ferments the juice at low temperatures in stainless-steel tanks. Wildred Wong of wine.com, who awarded this Diatom vintage a 90 rating, says Brewer, through the use of “inhibited” malolactic fermentation, “captures chardonnay in its most raw, carnal state, imbuing recognition of place with as little disturbance, distraction or interference as possible.” I like that. And I like Brewer, a most amiable winner-dinner host when he visited  Houston last year. As for the wine, I loved it for its creamy, peachy notes accompanied by an intense minerality. It speaks Californian with a French accent. $24.99 at wine.com    


Red

2018 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – J. Lohr may have become famous for its home-office Paso Robles wines, but this one can play any day with Napa Valley’s big boys. Aged for 17 months in thick-staved, tight-grained 60-gallon French oak barrels (60 percent new) after undergoing fermentation in open-top tanks, it’s got a small (8 percent) petit verdot component in the blend to add nuance. All the fruit comes from the 27-acre Carol’s Vineyard on the northern edge of St. Helena hard by the Napa River. You’ll taste both chocolate and cherries and you’ll love the long, satisfying finish. Kudos to winemaker Brenden Wood! $60 at jlohr.com



H-town Happenings

* Wine-Pairings lunch with Chef Hori and Antonio Gianola – Kata Robata, Saturday, July 30. Noon. $300. 713 726-8858. katarobata.com

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Other folks to follow

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com) – Sandra shares a piece she wrote for Galveston magazine breaking down Oregon wine country’s newly designated sub-regions.

Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – Russ, a.k.a. “the Texas Wineslinger,” gives us the skinny on Texas mourvèdres, a varietal he calls “a rising star” in the Lone Star State. He also lists four recent award-winners in major competitions.

Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff recommends seven “random samples” he recently had the pleasure of trying.   

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com)  – My podcast partner in crime reports on how a  catastrophic avalanche in Italy’s Trento province both explains how the country’s best wine regions were formed . . . and how they could be destroyed by global warming.

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com) – On a happier note, Kat expounds on how well Schiava, the most famous red wine from Italy’s Alto Adige, matches up with Texas barbeque.