The week that wasn’t

  • This missive has nothing to do with wine except for one of the most memorable post-game quotes of my 50-plus years of writing about sports. It was spoken by Russ Francis, one of the NFL’s best tight ends of his day, and it came at the end of a disastrous afternoon for Francis and his New England Patriots, who had just been face-planted by the Houston Oilers 31-14 in a Division Round playoff game on their own turf in Foxboro.

    Having admitted he’d expected to be celebrating an ass-kicking – instead of lamenting one – Francis said of the bottle(s) of bubbles waiting for him back home that New Year’s Eve: “Dom Perignon is the truth the light and the way. But tonight . . . it’s going to be light’s out.”

    The memory is relevant, of course, because H-town’s current NFL franchise, the Texans, visits Foxboro Sunday for another Division Round game (albeit in a different stadium), hoping to end our town’s 45-year conference championship game drought, which happens to be the longest among the league’s current cities by a full decade.

    Both those 1978 Oilers and the 1979 team – the first to be officially christened the “La Ya Blue” Oilers – would lose AFC Championship Games in Pittsburgh, where the Texans at least finally sort of made amends with their 30-6 AFC Wild-Card Round stomping of the Steelers Monday night. A stunningly lopsided victory that ended Mike Tomlin’s storied coaching career in Pittsburgh, it earned the Texans a spot in the Division Round for the seventh time.

    Since 1979, Houston’s franchises are 0-10 when reaching the AFC semifinals. Hall-of-Famer Warren Moon went 0-for-4 when he got this far during his Oilers years. Subsequently, Matt Schaub was 0-2 as the Texans’ QB of record, while Brock Osweiller and Deshaun Watson failed in their only shots. (Both Schaub and Osweiler also came up short in their respective visits to Gillette Stadium.) Now C. J. Stroud, admirably back for his third try in three seasons, again hopes to break Houston’s Division Round curse.  

    The Oilers’ breakthrough romp came in their first-ever Division Round game in their ninth season in the NFL and followed a no-less surprising 17-9 Wild Card-round beat-down of the Dolphins in Miami. While, on paper, the Pats paddling was considered a mild upset at the time, Houston had previously pulled off an astonishing comeback on the same field in mid-November and the Patriots subsequently found themselves in a chaotic state for the high-stakes rematch.

    Only a few weeks earlier Chuck Fairbanks was suspended as head coach after owner Billy Sullivan learned that Fairbanks had already been secretly hired to take the reins at the University of Colorado (Where he would go 7-26 before being fired. Yep, karma can be a bitch).

    Anyway, the first quarter ended deceptively 0-0, but the final 45 minutes mostly belonged to Houston. The Oilers built a 21-0 lead, starting with a 71-yard Dan Pastorini touchdown pass to Kenny Burrough. A Mike Reinfeldt pick of a Steve Grogan pass then gave the Oilers the ball at their 1-yard line, from where they drove 99 yards with the final 19 coming on a Pastorini-to-Mike Barber strike. Another Pastorini-Barber TD hookup left the Pats reeling.

    The flummoxed Grogan would be benched right before the half after completing only three of 12 passes for 38 yards. Trailing 24-0 following a Toni Fritsch field goal, the Patriots offered a bit of resistance late behind Grogan’s backup, Tom Owens, but a Gregg Bingham interception sealed the deal, setting up a clinching 2-yard touchdown run by Earl Campbell. The Oilers, for better or worse, were Three Rivers Stadium-bound.  

    Interesting fact: The Patriots wouldn’t lose another home playoff game for 31 years.

    “Oh, wow, how about that?” Wade Phillips responded when I told him that in a conversation Thursday.

    Phillips, who was his late father Bum’s defensive line coach that day, remembers how “confident we were after beating them up there already with that comeback. We just knew we were going to win.”

    “That comeback?” On Nov. 12, the Patriots had stormed out to a 23-0 lead only to have the Oilers respond with 26 unanswered points. A deftly executed field goal – a variation of Phillips’ patented “Bumerooski” – preceded a second-effort Earl Campbell 1-yard touchdown plunge that cut the margin to three, and Pastorini subsequently found Rich Caster for the winning points.

    “We had a great defense . . . Hall-of-Famers across the front,” Phillips said, referencing nose tackle Curley Culp, end Elvin Bethea and outside linebacker Robert Brazile. “We were good, really good.”

    Alas, not good enough to deal with the hand they were dealt in the next weekend in icy Three Rivers Stadium. Although the Oilers’ defense forced five turnovers, the offense coughed up the football nine times – five Pastorini interceptions and four lost fumbles – in a 34-5 thumping.

    Like me, Wade found it interesting that the Texans earned their latest golden opportunity at the expense of the Steelers.

    “Kind of amazing, isn’t it?” he said.                  

    Note that Phillips, me and John McClain will share the dais on Jan. 31 for Sports Night at the Pearl Fincher Museum (pearlmfa.org) in Spring. Tables go for $3,000 and individual tickets for $300. Wines from the excellent, locally-owned Nice Winery will be served and it’s a slam-dunk given that a slew of great memories will be shared.

    Phillips holds the distinction of having served as the head coach of more NFL franchises – six – than any man ever. Wade and I initially met in 1976, his first year on his dad’s staff and my first year covering the Oilers for the Houston Post. McClain and I battled it out as rival beat reporters for the Post and the Chronicle from 1980 through 1983, forging a lifetime friendship in the process.

    OK, enough ball talk. Let me close with a wine note. There will be a Burgundy “class” at the Alliance Française de Houston (427 Lovett Blvd., in Montrose) from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 22, conducted by Spec’s eminently knowledgeable fine-wine buyer James Barlow. It renews a long tradition of Spec’s tastings at the Alliance (alliancefrancaise.org) begun by the late Bear Dalton. The price is $55 for Alliance members and $65 for non-members. Yes, I fully intend to be there.     

  • Merry Christmas everyone!

    BUBBLES

    Incanto Prosecco

    The basics – It’s 100-percent glera from the Veneto, as it must be.                                         

    Trader Joe’s take – “Straw-yellow in your glass, and every sip crisp and aromatic. Luxurious notes of peach, apricot, and almond tickle the tongue and lead to a vivid, dry finish. We particularly love it for toasts and nightcaps, but it also makes magical mimosas for brunch.”

    My take – Before the New Year, I’m going to drink these bubbles side-by-side with Costco’s Kirkland Prosecco and attempt to decide on a favorite. Then again, I may declare it a tie. At this price, very similar to the Kirkland’s price, why bother to quibble?   

    For more informationwww.traderjoes.com

    Price – $8.99 at Trader Joe’s

    PINK

    2024 Ile de Conas Le Rosé

    The basics – It’s a kitchen-sink blend of grenache gris (25 percent), grenache noir (20), caladoc (15), pinot gris (15) and cinsault from the highly respected Paul Mas estate in the Languedoc.

    Winemaker’s take – “This unique Mediterranean blend is succulent with a delicate, tongue-tingly zest. Bursting with flavors,it can be served as a pre-dinner drink or paired with salmon teriyaki, zucchini, carpaccio or Mediterranean salad.”

    Critical acclaim – From the Cheap Wine Finder: “Tastes like a stew of honey, pear, and lemon, followed by cherry and tart cranberry. The mid-palate adds melon, a salty sensation, and raspberry hard candy (not sweet). The acidity is well-balanced, allowing the flavors to unfold and beckons you to take the next sip.”

    My take – It’s my new house rosé for reasons of flavor, price and the gorgeous bottle.  

    Price – $8.99 at Trader Joe’s

    WHITE

    2023 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay

    The basics – The grapes, 96 percent chardonnay with a bit of gewürztraminer and other white varietals thrown in to add nuance, come from the winery’s estate vineyards, of which there are 30 in six different AVAs.        

    Winemaker’s take – “This wine is rich and round, opening with aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, golden apple, toasted marshmallow, and vanilla bean. The palate shows incredible depth with layers of Bartlet pear and graham cracker leading to hazelnut and baking spice on the finish.”

    Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Generous aromas of lemon confit, vanilla, pastry and yellow apples. The palate is full-bodied with bright acidity and a creamy texture, the slight phenolic grip adding to the structure. Ripe yet elegantly balanced and refreshing.”

    My take – A reliable workhorse, it may not dazzle, but it never disappoints.

    For more informationwww.ferrari-carano.com

    Price – $16.37 at Spec’s

    RED

    Drop of Sunshine Red Blend

    The basics – It’s an unusual blend of Central Coast pinot noir (62 percent), syrah (19), and cabernet sauvignon.  

    Winemaker’s take – “Rich and full-bodied, this red blend envelops the senses with the bold flavors of dark, ripe fruits, including luscious blackberry and deep black cherry. Smooth, velvety tannins provide a perfect structure, while well-integrated toasty oak and a hint of spice add complexity and warmth. The wine’s round, approachable character delivers a seamless finish, making it an inviting and balanced companion for any occasion.”

    Critical acclaim – From the Tasting Panel: “This warm and cozy wine exudes toasty aromas and flavors of plum, cherry, and raspberry lightly drizzled with vanilla and caramel; taut acidity adds a spark to its velvety mouthfeel.”

    My take – We don’t see many pinot noir-cab blends, do we? But I paired it with a burger and fries and that proved to be about as perfect pairing as exists.

    For more informationwww.dropofsunshine.com

    Price – $19.99 at Total Wine

    2019 Adobe Road SHIFT Red Blend

    The basics – It’s blend of zinfandel (52 percent), teroldego (25), syrah (18) and carignane fruit from Sonoma County (61 percent) and Santa Barbara County. Adobe Road founder Kevin Beckler has been an auto-racing maven for more than three decades with 200-plus podium finishes around the glove, which explains the truly ingenious bottle design.      

    Winemaker’s take – “SHIFT your palate into gear with dark blue fruits. Zinfandel brings the strawberry compote and Teroldego is all about cocoa nibs and blueberries. Syrah adds a touch of everything that’s good about food off the grill, and Carignane deepens the aromas with fresh cigar. Complex baking spices, caramel notes, and a big mouthfeel make this an incredible wine.”

    Critical acclaim – From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “A high-octane red that retains a sense of style and polish, with expressive cherry, cassis, licorice and savory cracked pepper flavors that zoom toward medium-grained tannins.” And from Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 91: “It’s full-bodied and packed with spice, with toasted cedar, cracked pepper, plum, and scorched earth. It’s another warming wine, with ripe tannins and an earthy finish as well as a coating and lasting feel.”

    My take – A big, bracing, flavorful wine. Note that Dunnuck also scored the 2021 Adobe Road Red Line a 92, and that red, a blend of six varietals, also revved up my palate bigtime. (Sorry, couldn’t resist.)   

    For more infohttps://adoberoadwines.com

    Price – $42.99 at a smattering of Total Wine stores around the Houston area. The Red Line can be ordered from the Saratoga Wine Exchange (www.saratogawine.com), which ships to Texas. Their price is $39.94.

    2023 Domaine de Mourchon Tradition

    The basics – it’s a concrete-aged grenache-syrah blend from the winery’s three principal terroirs just outside the Rhone Valley village of Seguret.  

    Winemaker’s take – “This wine is deep garnet in color with a complex nose of juicy red berries, liquorice, ground pepper and black olive. Ripe and round on the palate, richly textured and balanced with notable freshness and fine tannins.”

    Critical acclaim – From Janis Robinson: “Juicy sweet fruit but with structure and amazing freshness. Offers lots of pleasure.”                   

    My take – I couldn’t agree with Janis more. It’s just a delicious wine that pairs comfortably with almost everything. I’ve probably been through 50 cases in my lifetime.

    For more informationwww.domainedemourchon.com

    Price – $20.49 at Spec’s

    2024 Fratelli Revello Nebbiolo d’Alba

    The basics – The grapes come from a southeast-facing vineyard near Annunziata – on the hillside below La Morra – planted in 1996.

    Winemaker’s Take – “A beautiful nose of strawberry and savory herbs that leads to great structure. Brighter notes of red and black cherries compliment the depth of fruit on the palate. Vanilla and cedar round out the smooth finish that ends with fine and silky tannins.”

    My take – I love finding nebbiolos that can pass for a Barolos, as this one does in spades. 

    For more informationwww.revello.wine.com

    Price – $29.99 at Spec’s 

  • The wines touted here and in my next blog to follow are among the most intriguing I’ve tasted over the past sixth months and that can currently be found either on local store shelves or through on-line purchase — especially important, of course, this time of the year. Some are new to me; others have been my go-to bottles for years.

    As for the very best wines I’ve sampled of late . . . Good luck finding or affording them. I’ll share that story soon.   

    BUBBLES

    Champagne Mailly Grand Cru

    The basics – It’s a classic blend of pinot noir (75 percent) and chardonnay from only Grand Cru vineyards.

    Winemaker’s take – “Iridescent golden yellow tones, full, fruity nose, clean palate. A very come-hither Champagne: racy, elegant and deeply sensual, with beguiling bubbles that literally burst with luscious fruit. Mouth-watering hints of lightly toasted, freshly buttered bread.”

    Critical acclaim – From James Suckling: “A fruit-forward style with yellow plums and stone fruit, enhanced by lemon zest.  Light-bodied and crisp, if not zesty, with a good finish.” 

    My take – These tasty bubbles were new to me when I tasted the Mailly for the first time not knowing the price. It turned out the price is right.  

    For more informationwww.champagne-mailly.com

    Price – $45.99 at Total Wine

    WHITE

    Drop of Sunshine Chardonnay

    The basics – It’s 100-percent chardonnay from various California Central Coast vineyards.

    Winemaker’s take – “A masterclass in balance, this Chardonnay opens with a burst of zesty lemon tart, seamlessly blending with the minerality that defines its crisp character. The finish reveals the lush sweetness of nectarine and ripe pear, while subtle hints of oak—delicate yet perfectly integrated—add depth without overpowering the freshness. This wine showcases a refined harmony of bright acidity and sophisticated structure, leaving a lasting impression of clarity and finesse.”

    My take – Again, this wine proves you don’t have spend a fortune to satisfy your sipping urges. The complexity is startling considering the price. 

    For more informationwww.dropofsunshine.com

    Price – $15.99 at Total Wine

    2024 Portlandia Pinot Gris

    The basics – It’s most pinot gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley with a tiny bit of riesling blended in to add complexity.

    Winemaker’s take – “Brilliantly balanced, bright, and bursting with lively aromas, this Pinot Gris delights from the first sip. A hint of lemon zest, plush pear, and sun-kissed stone fruit paint a tantalizing picture, while crisp green apple and juicy peach play on the palate. A refreshing ribbon of racy acidity and a sleek, stony minerality lend depth and distinction, making every sip purely pleasurable.”

    My take – It’s the perfect aperitif wine at a very friendly price.

    For more informationwww.portlandiawine.com

    Price – $16.97 from www.wine.com

    2023 Ron Yates Sauvignon Blanc

    The basics – The sauvignon blanc grapes grow at an elevation of 3,500 feet in the remote Dell Valley Vineyards 75 miles east of El Paso.

    Winemaker’s take – “Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and silky tannins, the wine offers excellent food-pairing versatility while maintaining elegant structure. Notes of dried herbs, leather, and subtle spice.”

    My take – Yates ranks among my very favorite Texas winemakers and he’s a master of his craft. The proof is in the bottle.  

    For more informationwww.ronyateswines.com

    Price – $34.99 at Houston Wine Merchant

    2024 Illumination Sauvignon Blanc

    The basics – It’s a mix of Sonoma and Napa fruit, which is hand-picked and pressed as whole clusters, then fermented in new and neutral French oak, acacia and stainless steel barrels as well as egg-shaped concrete fermenters.

    Winemaker’s take – “A remarkable depth of flavor comes through: notes of lemon zest, honeysuckle, peach blossom, and quince are all elevated by a lovely acidity. A savory minerality layers itself among the appealing fruit flavors and hints at the complexity that will continue to reveal itself.”

    Critical acclaim – From Jeb Dunnuck, who gave it a score of 95: “The wine has a Bordeaux Blanc-like vibe in its ripe lime, orange blossom, mint, and spicy wood nuances. It brings plenty of sweet California fruit and is medium to full-bodied and concentrated, with bright acidity and a great finish. Beautifully done . . . just impeccable.” 

    My take – What Jeb said. Yes, it’s a tad expensive, but it’s worth every dollar.  

    For more informationwww.quintessa.com

    Price – $54.99 at www.wine.com

    RED

    2022 Ron Yates Mourvèdre

    The basics – The Texas High Plains fruit – it’s 100-percent mourvèdre – ages in  mostly neutral French and American oak barrels, most of them neutral.  

    Winemaker’s take – “This pure expression of mourvèdre showcases the variety’s distinctive character with compelling complexity. Intriguing aromas of graphite and rich cranberry compote lead to a palate filled with flavors reminiscent of strawberry rhubarb pie, enhanced by a distinctive anise note that adds depth and intrigue. The careful oak program allows the wine’s unique terroir-driven characteristics to shine while providing structure and subtle spice.”

    My take – I don’t usually feature two wines from the same producer in a blog, but this red and Yates’ sauvignon blanc were both too good to go unrecognized.     

    For more info – www.ronyateswines.com

    Price – $39.99 from the winery

    2022 Tenuta Luce LaVite Lucente

    The basics – Like its famous – and pricy – big brother Luce, it’s a blend of Tuscan merlot and sangiovese.

    Winemaker’s take – “Appearing a deep ruby red, the Lucente boasts an intense bouquet of red berry fruit, wild blackberry, violets, and other floral notes. Broad and generous on the palate, with tannins beautifully-integrated into the structure, it develops tangy, aromatic fruit on the mid-palate, including dark wild berry, black liquorice, and smooth spices.”

    Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 94: “Round and creamy, offering ripe blackberries, blueberries and hints of chocolate and cedar. Medium- to full-bodied with succulent fruit and fine tannins. Compact and focused, with good length and balance overall.” The Wine Spectator, Decanter and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate each gave it a 90.

    My take – This is a superb Tuscan without the obligatory Super Tuscan price. The Luce goes for $70-plus.

    For more information – www. https://www.tenutaluce.com

    Price – $26.99 from www.wine.com

    2022 M Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

    The basics – The blend is cabernet sauvignon-centric (84 percent) with malbec (6), merlot (5) and petite sirah also in the mix.

    Winemaker’s take – “Chocolate-blackberry ganache, cranberry preserves, sweet mint, black licorice, dark olive, new leather, mahogany. Palate is sleek and supple, firm, fine-grain, polished tannins, with a complex, classy finish.”

    Critical acclaim – From Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, which scored it a 95: “Deep ruby-purple, it has alluring aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, dried herbs, leather and lavender, plus classy touches of oak spice. The full-bodied palate is concentrated and powerful without going over the top. It has abundant, grainy tannins, flinty streaks and plenty of refreshing acidity to carry the long finish.”

    My take – It’s equal parts easy drinking and easy on the budget, certainly for a California cab.

    For more informationwww.mcpricemyers.com

    Price – $25.97 at www.wine.com

  • Updated 10-26

    I spoke too soon last week. It seems the Texans do still suck and, yep, this is already a season on the brink for them.

    We witnessed a strange convergence Monday. First, Seattle’s Mariners fell short in their bid for a first-ever American League pennant and a trip to the World Series, losing a dramatic Game 7 in Toronto thanks to clutch three-run homer by George Springer, the onetime “Core Four” Astro. But the Texans helped Seattle fans salvage something on the day by obligingly rolling over for the Seahawks.     

    With a 2-4 record, the Texans seem certain to continue another uniquely depressing of-fer, this one belonging to Houston, as in the city of. Between the Oilers and the Texans, H-town has gone 45 seasons without having its NFL team reach even the AFC championship game, never mind the Super Bowl. As I keep reminding you, it’s the longest drought among NFL cities by a full decade. The four cities who haven’t seen their teams advance that far in the 21st century, with their most recent appearance:

    * Houston – 1979 AFC Championship Game.

    * Cleveland – 1989 AFC Championship Game.

    * Miami – 1992 AFC Championship Game.

    * Dallas – 1995 NFC Championship Game.    

    And the Texans, of course, remain the only franchise never to reach the NFL’s final four. However, I was thinking that should Seattle finally advance to the World Series the Texans would pounce on that as a good omen and ruin Seattle’s day completely. Instead . . . yuk. It’s scary how inept their offensive line is again and even scarier how C. J. Stroud is becoming increasingly spooked by the pressure he’s constantly confronting. Early in is third season, he’s but a shadow of his cocky, precociously competent rookie self.      

    The Texans rank way closer to the league’s dregs – Jets, Titans, Dolphins, Raiders – than the elites. The situation couldn’t be more dire with Nico Collins out Sunday and one of those elites, the 49ers, coming to town.

    As for the karma’s-a-bitch thing, the Mariners’ fans all but guaranteed that Springer would come back to haunt them after they had cheered mightily his being plunked in the knee by a pitch in Game 6. After it happened, as he was splayed on the field in obvious pain, there were concerns that his availability would be in question when the teams returned to Toronto.

    He did go 0-for-4 in the Blue Jays’ Game-6 triumph, but, a day later, there George was, dancing and fist-waving his away around the bases after blasting a grooved Eduard Pazardo sinker into the Rogers Center leftfield bleachers, turning a 3-1 bottom-of-the seventh deficit into a 4-3 lead Toronto had no problem preserving in route to its first Fall Classic since 1993.

    Astros fans could relate, to be sure. Lest we forget – and we won’t, the sign-stealing “scandal” notwithstanding – Springer homered five times in seven games in Houston’s World Series triumph over the Los Angeles Dodgers in 2017, earning MVP honors. The Dodgers can’t be too excited about crossing paths with him again on baseball’s grandest stage.

    If you’re counting, Springer’s 23 postseason dingers rank him third all time – he’s tied with Kyle Schwarber – behind Manny Ramirez (29) and another “Core Four” Astro, Jose Altuve (27). He went yard three times against the Mariners. Note that Schwarber also went yard three times against the Astros in the 2022 World Series, but Houston still prevailed in six games.

    Now, on to wine . . .

    I did an overnighter to Italy a week ago to join a Houston tour group for a winery tour and lunch at Agricola Gian Piero Marrone (www.agricolamarrone.com), located below the famous Langhe hilltop town of La Morra. I’d never tasted anything from this lovely family and I’ve visited the region at least once every year since 1995 except for the COVID lockdown in 2020.

    I quickly learned that was my loss.

    Marrone is a beautiful place with terrific sulfite-free wines (cool decorative barrels, too, shown above) and an excellent panoramic restaurant in which to taste them. Better still, the current fourth-generation leadership team includes the three sisters pictured above: hospitality director Denise, chief administrator Serena and the winemaker Valentina, who have taken the baton from their father, Gian Pero, and are running like the wind with it. Serena’s husband Marco is part of the team, too, overseeing their export market.

    It wasn’t so long ago that women had to fight for their rightful place in the prestigious cellars of the Langhe. But the times they are a changin’ and, coincidentally, my guest at the lunch was Isabella Oddero, whose aunt, Maria Christina, was one of the first women in the region to fully take charge of her family’s winemaking operation. Oddero and Marrone are practically neighbors in greater LaMorra, as is Giulia Negri, a rising star I mentioned in my previous blog.

    Starting back in the mid-1970s, a group of forward-thinking vignerons took Barolo production into the modern age and became famously known as “the Barolo Boys.” Their names were Luciano Sandrone, Giorgio Rivetti, Piero Selvaggio, Chiara Boschis, Elio Altare, Marco de Grazia and they shook things up bigtime – maybe too much, some will argue.

    Never mind. Collectively, they put Barolo on the global stage and master marketers like Angelo Gaja and Bruno Ceretto followed, ensuring these rock-star nebbiolos would rank among the world’s most famous and respected wines. Now, Serena suggested with a smile, we have “the Barolo girls.”

    Their pioneer was Chiara Boschis, who took charge of business operations and winemaking at E. Pira & Figli beginning with the 1990 vintage. Maria Christina, for her part, became the sixth-generation winemaker at Oddero – after years of stubborn resistance from her father and uncle, it should be noted – in the late 1990s. Note that she became the first winemaker, male or female, to erect netting to protect Oddero’s prized grapes from hail.

    Others beside Valentina Marrone and Negri whose names I’m committing to memory going forward are Marina Marcarino (her winery, Punset, is the oldest organic producer in Barbaresco) Maria Teresa Mascarello, Emanuela Bolla, Silvia Cigliuti, Paola Rocca, Nadia Verrua, Sara Vezza and Silvia Altare. Silvia, of course, is Elio’s daughter.

    And while she loves her father, who remains a presence at the winery, she calls Boschis her hero, saying: “I look at her photo every day and say I want to be just like you.”

    I should add that my visit to the Langhe included a night’s stay and a dinner in Michelin-starred chef Massimo Camia’s cozy new compound in Monchiero (www.massimocamia.it). I expected his food to be great, and it was, while the beautiful room I stayed in there made for a perfect evening. Because I wouldn’t have to drive anywhere after the meal, I felt perfectly comfortable ordering a bottle of Barolo (Ceretto 2019) all for me.  

    I should point out that Camia’s daughter, Elisabetta, the heiress apparent, now plays a prominent role in the kitchen at her father’s side. She had flown solo as the chef for a luncheon a tour group I led in 2024 enjoyed there, and there was no drop-off in quality whatsoever.

    Gender-wise, the Piemonte’s playing field is finally leveling.

  • First, sports. After all, that was my first gig. But note that the wines pictured above will be singled out for praise later.  

    The Texans don’t suck anymore and hurray for that. But beating up on a terrible Ravens defense – an unthinkable adjective for their Ray Lewis era D – without Lamar Jackson under center for the Ravens offense hardly qualifies as a cosmic turning point. Ditto their 26-0 shellacking of the dreadful Titans the previous week. Tennessee is so bad coach Brian Callahan has already been fired less barely a third of the way through his second season.

    But hope springs eternal, even in Houston, which hasn’t seen one of its teams advance as far as the conference championship game – never mind the Super Bowl – since the Oilers did so in 1979, a drought that exceeds all other current NFL cities by a full decade. To put this span in context, the quarterback who last got a team from H-town there, Dan Pastorini, will turn 77 next year.

    And that’s why I’ve become a Seattle Mariners fan with the Astros long out of the hunt. Seattle’s baseball franchise is the only one never to play in a World Series. If the Mariners can get there, and they are now only two victories shy of same – there has to be hope for the Texans ending H-town’s suffering, right?

    Speaking of droughts, let’s talk about the Dallas Cowboys. Jerry Jones says he’s going to boycott the Super Bowl this year because of the NFL’s decision to make Bad Bunny the featured halftime attraction. That’s hilarious because Jones’ football team has been boycotting the Super Bowl for 30 years – and Jerry knows this one isn’t going, either.   

    Finally, I was also going to take some shots at the Bill Belichick circus at North Carolina, but I’ve lost my enthusiasm. Why? Because, really, who cares? Without his fortuitous intersection with Tom Brady, Belichick would be an afterthought nobody today.     


    Now, on to vino . . .

    It’s hard to tout wines I’m enjoying while in France because most of my favorite, daily-drinking selections are small-production, super-cheap bottles that will never make their way to Houston or anywhere else in North America. To be sure, I will be confronting sticker shock upon my return in a few weeks. Just this morning, for example, I picked up a fresh, lively, eminently quaffable Côtes du Rhone from Domaine Père Hugues at the local Carrefour supermarket for what I thought was the equivalent of a little over four bucks.

    Except, because I bought two bottles, the price dropped a dollar on each. Are you kidding me?

    And my go-to rosés, the Crazy Tropez and a generic Var – the inland region above Saint Tropez – are about $6 each. I literally buy every bottle of both that I find on the shelf.     

    Thursday, however, I’m heading back to my beloved Piemonte for a single night to meet up with a couple friends who are leading a tour group through the region.  I’ll also be restocking my favorites from Ceretto, Oddero, Bruno Rocca, Pio Cesare and Luigi Eiunadi with, of course, somewhat higher tariffs, they will still be way less expensive than what the same bottles would sell for in Houston . . . if I could find them.

    But I’m no less excited to hit a few of my favorite Alba-area retailers to look for wines that my friends at AOC Selections have gotten behind. Master sommelier Brandon Kerne, pictured above, is filling a huge void in our market for Barolos, Barbarescos, Barberas and Dolcettos. I know Roagna, Trediberri, G.B. Burlotto and Giulia Negri only through the crack AOC team, although, full disclosure, I have yet to taste any of Giulia’s prized offerings, a number of which are now on offer at AOC.

    I’m hoping to score three bottles of her 2016 “La Tartufaia” Barolo ($75) and the recently released 2021 ($90) is no less tempting. The 2016 vintage had been considered the best vintage of the early 21st century in the Langhe, but 2021 seems to be eclipsing it, based my tastings in early September and conversations with producers I know personally.

    Negri cultivates Barolo’s highest site, Serradenari, shown above, in the La Morra neighborhood,and she is unquestionably a rising star in the region. Kerne’s expert take on Negri, shown above doing her “barologirl” thing, and her wines:

    “Barolo has never been quick to change, and Giulia’s brilliance lies in her ability to push forward while honoring the past. She calls her approach ‘enlightened traditionalism,’ a pragmatic, respectful philosophy that refines classic methods through smarter vineyard and cellar work. One detail I love is her use of tressage, or vine braiding, a time-consuming Burgundian technique that helps vines handle heat without the trauma of hedging. Everything is aged in neutral large oak, and every choice is intentional. ‘That which is born square can never be round,’ she says, and that care and clarity comes through in the glass. These are some of the most aromatic, silken expressions of Nebbiolo being made today.”

    In short, if you’re as passionate about Nebiolo as I am, run, don’t walk, to AOC today.

    Finally, I need to share something I received recently from WalletHub about H-town’s vibrant wining-and-dining scene, which I’ll put it up against anybody’s, although I’m hardly unbiased.  

    To determine the best and cheapest local foodie scenes, WalletHub explained in a press release, it compared more than 180 of the largest U.S. cities across 28 key metrics. The data set ranges from affordability and accessibility of high-quality restaurants to food festivals per capita to craft breweries and wineries per capita to retail pricing.

    While we didn’t score too well in gourmet specialty food stores per capita and average off-the-shelf beer and wine prices, ranking only 95th and 77th respectively, we were No. 1 in both restaurants per capita and availability and accessibility to highly-rated restaurants. I’m not really sure what the latter means, but, hey, let’s raise a glass of Negri Barolo to that anyway.

    Cheers!      

  • Updated again Sept. 24

    Holed up here in my little Alpine paradise, pictured above outside my bedroom window in this most beautiful season of all, it’s easy to blissfully ignore the travails of Houston’s sports teams happening 5,400 miles to the west. However, the concurrent disasters that have befallen the Astros, the Texans and now the Rockets in recent days jarred me out of my wine-fueled complacency.

    After more than a half-century spent hacking on keyboards about H-Town’s oft-prone-to-frustrate franchises, I recognize a five-alarm fire when I see one, folks. Relative to the city’s high expectations of late — at no point in our history did we have the right to believe we had three franchises with bonafide championship aspirations — I’m thinking our teams have never collectively delivered a worst fortnight.

    No, really. I’m not being hysterical here. The Astros, a near-dynasty over recent summers, entered July with a seven-game lead in the AL West. The Texans were coming off consecutive seasons that produced playoff victories with a popular new coach in DeMeco Ryans and a dynamic young quarterback, C.J. Stroud, who, in 2023, delivered possibly the greatest rookie season ever for a player at his position. And the baby Rockets had ascended from the dreggiest dregs of the NBA to actually being mentioned as an outside championship contender after the addition of, holy cow, future Hall-of-Famer Kevin Durant to provide a steadying influence.

    Now? After getting their butts kicked bigtime three straight nights by Seattle on their own field in the most important series of the season, then flat rolling over against a nowhere-bound A’s team twice, the Astros have all but played themselves out of playoff contention. This following seven consecutive AL West titles and after they had tricked their fans into thinking all was OK with a sweep of the Rangers. Clearly, it wasn’t.

    The Texans, for their part, are a butt-ugly 0-3, having thus far showing a level of offensive ineptitude rarely seen in these parts, and we’ve born witness to some pretty dreadful offenses. How bad have they been? Their 38 points and three touchdowns are waaaay down there with the godawful 2005 Texans, who finished 2-14 after scoring 24 points and two TDs during their 0-3 start, and the pathetic 1-13 Oilers of 1973, who managed only 31 points during the same span but somehow accidentally found their find way into the end zone four times.

    Offensive coordinator Nick Caley would be on the firing block if he hadn’t just been hired. The Texans’ 12.7 points per game is 32nd among 32 teams with Stroud barely a shadow of his confident, accurate rookie self. And he’s not helping his cause with an increasingly disenchanted fan base by defiantly wearing the Astros rivals’ ballcaps. Hey, C .J., get your ball-capped head out of your ass and start acting like you’ve played quarterback before.

    As for the Rockets, they haven’t even reported to training camp yet and they’re already down a man, a hugely important man in the person of point guard Fred VanVleet, who has somehow torn an ACL and may not play this season. Before that terrible news broke, only the Oklahoma City Thunder were given better odds to win the NBA title than the Rockets, who have gone from 7-to-1 to 14-to-1 — even worse than the 12-1 they were prior to the Durant trade.

    Da hell? What’s with these off-season injuries? Part of the Texans’ problem, of course, is their not having running back Joe Mixon, whose mysterious ankle sprain, suffered sometime over the past winter, could also keep him off the field for all of 2025.

    In short, things look as bleak across the board as the photo above. Nope, it’s never easy being a Houston sports fan.

    But let’s move on to a happier topic — wine — and the week that was! A recent trip to Italy’s Piemonte, three hours to the east by car from the Ubaye Valley, checked every one of my happy boxes, offering gorgeous vineyard landscapes, outstanding food and wine pairings and truly wonderful people. All of the above will be subject of my next blog, to be posted soon, I promise.

    Look, I’m kinda busy over here. (Insert smiley face emoji here.) To quote Bum Phillips, the last coach to lead a Houston NFL team to the brink of the Super Bowl — 45 friggin’ years ago, fyi — when he was asked how he was spending his time in retirement: “Not much of nothin’, and I don’t start ’til noon.”

    We miss Bum, don’t we?

  • It was 50 years ago this month that the Frenchman Bernard Thevenet prevented Eddy Merckx from winning his sixth consecutive Tour de France, and the day he took charge in that historic 1975 race finished at the Pra Loup ski resort about 20 minutes above our home in the Ubaye Valley. (I did the climb this morning, in fact, albeit on an eBike. Hey, I’m turning 73 in a couple months.) The story I wrote for the Houston Chronicle on the anniversary follows in this space.

    But the focus of my missive today is a young Slovenian named Tadej Pogačar who seems hellbent upon making every cyclist who came before him an afterthought, Lance Armstrong included. Armstrong, of course, has become officially a non-thought because his prodigious Tour accomplishments have been wiped from the record books as a result of his doping transgressions.

    In speaking about Pogačar, though, I will include Armstrong’s Tour stats, accomplished between 1999 and 2010, just for the sake of comparison. The Texan’s seven “wins” (1999-2005) made him at the time the first rider in the Tour’s history to finish first or second seven summers in a row. Pogačar, not insignificantly, is now 6-for-6 after he claimed his fourth yellow jersey in six tries Sunday — tying him with Chris Froome for second place all time — to go with a pair of runner-up finishes.

    And here’s the most important number: Tadej is only 26. Armstrong didn’t win his first until he was 27. Ditto Miguel Indurain. Only Bernard Hinault had won as many as three before the age of 27.  

    Pogačar appears to be doing what he’s doing without doping, too. I know, that may sound naive, but the sport has evolved dramatically from its bad ol’ days of systemic doping, despite persistent rumors that the modern bikes are equipped with tiny motors. Yeah, right. Matt Seaton had a fascinating, albeit geeky piece in the Atlantic this weekend titled “Science Is Winning the Tour de France” that’s well worth the read if you want to believe cycling has indeed cleaned up its act: https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2025/07/cycling-success-without-doping/683655/

    A key quote: “The gold standard of cycling performance, which boils down to a rider’s ability to push against the wind and go uphill fast, is a high power-to-weight ratio, given in watts per kilogram. The benchmark figure is how many watts per kilo of his weight a cyclist can sustain for a one-hour effort.” Seaton specifically notes that Pogačar produced seven watts per kilo over 40 minutes in winning a crucial stage in the Pyrenees last summer, finishing a monster climb six minutes faster than Armstrong, at the height of his doping-boosted powers, had done it in 2004.

    Damn.

    Anyway, here’s how the best cyclists in history compare statistically regarding their Tour de France performances:

    * Armstrong — Seven yellow jerseys, 83 total days wearing yellow, 22 stages won. One third-place finish.

    * Merckx — Five yellow jerseys, 96 total days wearing yellow, 34 stages won. One runner-up finish.

    * Hinault — Five yellow jerseys, 75 total days wearing yellow, 28 stages won. Two runner-up finishes.

    * Indurain — Five yellow jerseys, 60 total days wearing yellow, 12 stages won.

    * Anquetil — Five yellow jerseys, 50 total days wearing yellow, 16 stages won. One third-place finish.

    * Froome — Four yellow jerseys, 59 total days wearing yellow, 7 stages won. One third-place finish.

    * Pogačar — Four yellow jerseys, 54 total days wearing yellow, 21 stages won. Two runner-up finishes.

    And the piece I wrote for the Chronicle . . .

    Fifty years ago Sunday, on a steep and winding two-lane road  below this then-obscure ski village in the Southern Alps – I can see it from terrace of our house in the Ubaye Valley below – something unprecedented and, until then, something presumed unthinkable happened. On July 13, 1975, late in the 15th stage of the 62th Tour de France, Eddy Merckx couldn’t answer an attack by one of rivals.

    The Belgian Merckx, seemingly honed in on breaking the record of five Tour triumphs he then shared with Jacques Anquetil, had pedaled out of Nice that morning wearing the yellow jersey for the 96th and final time of his storied career. Only Lance Armstrong has ever approached that record with his 83 days spent in yellow spread over seven championship campaigns, all of which, of course, have since been expunged from the Tour’s archives because of the Texan’s admitted doping.

    They called Merckx “Le Cannibale” for how he chewed up and spit out every challenge to his storied reign, which had begun in 1969. He would have almost certainly been pursuing a seventh maillot jaune in 1975 if he hadn’t skipped the 1973 Tour to placate his Italian sponsors, who had asked him to make the Giro d’Italia his top priority that season. Merckx obliged and summarily conquered the Giro field by a margin of nearly eight minutes. He had also handily won the Vuelta a España.

    The Cannibal, to be sure, had no equals.          

    But less than two miles from the end of a grueling 135-mile slog into Pra Loup that featured five major climbs in route, the French rider Bernard Thévenet sensed weakness in Merckx, and took his shot, bolting to the front and then staying there until he reached the finish line near Pra Loup’s tourist office. The yellow jersey would be Thevenet’s to keep for 1975. After a runner-up finish in 1976, he won another in 1977. 

    Significantly, however, Merckx had been viciously punched in the gut two days previously by a French spectator early in the tough ascent of the Puy de Dome in the Massif Central. Riding alone, he had been making his way through the fans crowding the roadway in pursuit of Thevenet – that stage’s leader – when the ugly incident occurred.

    The perpetrator, a 55-year-old local named Nello Breton, claimed it was an accident, insisting he had been pushed into Merckx’s path from behind. But film of the incident clearly showed otherwise and he would he would subsequently be taken to court by Merckx. The presiding judge found Breton guilty of assault but awarded Merckx just a single French franc in compensation.  

    After finishing 34 seconds behind Thevenet, Merckx had vomited violently and that evening he would receive medication for an inflamed kidney, which only worsened his stomach issues. Still, a rest day on the Riviera followed and Merckx appeared to be his old self again heading into the mountains leading by just under a minute. His chances would be further buoyed when Thevenet incurred a flat tire. But, conceding nothing, Thévenet kept the pressure on.

    Ultimately, Merckx cracked. He was said to almost unrecognizable by the race’s end, hunched over his bike and grimacing in pain, an empty look in his eyes. He could barely pedal. Another stage win followed for Thévenet the next day – giving him a lead of nearly three minutes – and he easily kept it through the Tour’s first-ever finish on the Champs Élysées in Paris.

    And any lingering chance Merckx might still have had to regain the upper hand disappeared early in the 17th stage when he suffered a broken cheekbone in a flukish collision with another rider. Unable to chew, he subsisted on a liquid diet over the last five days, refusing to quit. Tour doctors had advised him to abandon, but, admirably, he wanted to ensure that his teammates received their share of the general classification’s second-place money.

    Merkx ultimately conceded he should have quit and simply paid them out of his own pocket. He was never the same rider again. Battling saddle sores that required surgery and reluctant to make himself a target on France’s roads again, he opted to not contest the Tour in 1976. In his final start the following summer, he never got into contention and had to settle for sixth place. He would retire from cycling soon thereafter.   

    Nonetheless, a half century on with Armstrong accomplishments erased, Merckx still shares the Tour’s championship record with Anquetil and two legendary riders who followed him, another Frenchman Bernard Hinault and Spain’s Miguel Indurain. Anquetil triumphed for the first time as a upstart 23-year-old in 1957, then, as a seasoned Tour veteran, collected four yellow jerseys in a row from 1961 through 1964.

    Hinault won his five Tours between 1978 and 1985 while finishing second twice. His reign ended in 1986 when he was the runner-up to Greg LeMond, who claimed the first of his three titles and remains the lone American to officially stand atop the podium in Paris. Indurain, in turn, is still the lone rider to collect five consecutive maillot jaunes, ruling from 1991 through 1995.

    England’s Chris Froome almost joined Anquetil, Merckx, Hinault and Indurain with four championships between 2013 and 2017. Froome would finish third in 2018 – having been allowed to enter after fighting off doping allegations of his own – but then saw his career shortened by a horrific accident suffered during a training ride before the 2019 race.

    Now, in the summer of 2025, Tadej Pogačar has thrown his name into the greatest-ever conversation. With his 19th Tour stage win – Merkx had 34, second only to the sprinter Mark Canvendish’s 35 – the defending champion Pogačar reclaimed the yellow jersey through seven stages in pursuit of his fourth maillot jaune. The tenacious, hyper-confident 26-year-old Slovenian, who’s also a two-time runner-up, leads the field by 54 seconds and he’s 77 seconds up on the only man to beat him over the last five years, Denmark’s Jonas Vingegaard.      

    With Pogačar leading, the Tour passed just below Pra Loup last summer in route to a first-ever Grand Arrivée in Nice, bringing back fond memories for a great friend of mine, Louis Lequette. Lequette, who turned 92 on Saturday, had founded the ski station, staking out its runs himself in the late 1950s, and was serving as mayor when Thévenet dropped Merckx. They would meet and shake hands at the finish, after which Lequette officially proclaimed the soon-to-be champion an honorary citizen. Thévenet mentioned that honor fondly while he celebrated atop the podium in Paris.

    “Good marketing for us,” Lequette recalled with a smile.

    Indeed, Pra Loup was on the map to stay. Today, “the wolf’s meadow” is one the Southern Alps’ busiest winter resorts and even has aspirations of hosting a future Winter Olympics. In 2015, when a Tour stage again finished there to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Thévenet’s winning ascent, a monument was erected beside the road. It’s an arc with a bicycle perched on top and the words under Thevenet’s name: “Le TOMBEUR du “cannibale.”    

    Merkx had indeed been slain – “tombeur means “killer – but fortunately only metaphorically.    

    Raising a glass to . . . Billy Wagner

    The Astros’ third Hall-of-Famer wasn’t only a great closer. He was a really good guy who was routinely a cooperative being interviewed, win or lose, just like the first two, Craig Biffo and Jeff Bagwell. That mattered to us sports writers, believe me. Cheers, Billy!

    And, fellow winos, I’ll get back to wine coverage with my next blog, I promise!

      
      
        
     
     
     
        
  • Oops! Written in early May, this missive never got published, it seems. So here ya go. Would be terrible to deprive you of all my wisdom . . .

    I know, finally. But it has been a crazy few months for the Robertsons what with our pursuit of a long-stay French visa (so far, so good), a couple weeks hunkered down at the Houston Open and the U.S. Clay Courts (two of my favorite venues), an H-town move (complicated, yet well worth the trouble) and then traveling to France, which proved to be the biggest, most bizarre adventure of them all.

    We’ll never be completely certain what happened, but my being “unresponsive” to a flight attendant was apparently deemed reason enough to turn a full United Houston-to-Frankfurt flight around over the Atlantic. We wound up landing in Boston, where things only got weirder. Two days later, following multiple consultations with medical professionals — doctors, EMTs and even an ambulance crew lugging a stretcher — each of whom pronounced me fit as a fiddle, we finally made it to France.

    Now here I sit at our dining room table in the Ubaye Valley, contemplating the most beautiful view in the world, at least in my humble opinion. This lovely place, about 65 miles inland from Nice in Haute Provence, has been our home away from home since 1998 and only becomes more special with each visit in large part because our circle of friends, like-minded souls all of them, keeps expanding. We fell in love with the landscape years ago, but now it’s actually more about the people.

    Although I probably sound naïve saying this, the Ubaye seems the safest of havens in this screwed up world of ours. While you can’t escape the news here, it almost feels OK to ignore it. The 12th-century church tower seen in the photo above still stands despite lots of bad stuff happening through the centuries. That’s reassuring, Still, it was a bit unnerving the other morning when a couple of sound-barrier-breaking French fighter jets screamed through the valley seemingly a couple hundred feet over my head.

    Da hell?

    Admittedly, I was curious how the locals we don’t know well would relate to us given what’s going on with the MAGA jackasses back in the USA. They are, to be sure, horrified by what they see on television and read in their newspapers. But, if anything, it has made them all the more welcoming. They can feel our pain. It has been hugs all around on almost a daily basis.

    The Barcelonnette “suburb” of Saint Pons (population 400) will be our home base through October, but we are hoping to wander further afield than we have in the past, when our Ubaye hours felt all too limited. For starters, we’ll be visiting Marseille, where we’ll spend an evening with our great friend Claude Gouron, who has photographed the Ubaye probably more than anyone ever but now splits his time between Barcelonnette and Marseille. There his partner, the lovely Samira, lives and works as a ceramic artist . . . never mind that she’s legally blind.

    For years, decades even, I went to extreme lengths to avoid Marseille. Remember Gene Hackman in the French Connection? Right, scary. But Claude introduced me to the city’s myriad charms, equal parts gritty and gorgeous. I absolutely love the place now for its energy and its diversity. In many ways, it’s Houston with an Occitane accent — but a bit more history. The Phoenicians first put down roots on that sunny, rocky Mediterranean shore some 2,600 years ago.

    And, to be sure, a visit to Italy’s Piemonte — Barolo country! — looms at some point. It was a stopover Alba that led us serendipitously to the Ubaye for the first time in June of 1993. Needing to get to Nice to catch a flight the next morning to London — heading to Wimbledon — we took the long way through the southern Alps, arguably the best detour we could have possibly imagined.

    Although spring is springing across the valley floor, the high road down to Nice over the Col de Restefond has only recently been cleared of snow and it’s still a winter wonderland up there in the thin air, as the photo above proves. I screwed up the courage to drive it for the first time yesterday. But it might be a few more weeks — and at least a 20-degree temperature rise — before I tackle those 4,500 feet of vertical climbing on the bike. (A recent attempt on my eBike fell a mile short when my battery ran out of juice, dammit!)

    Regarding my wine consumption . . . Well, yes, there has been some. Both of our chain grocery stores have extensive options to choose from at, by Texas standards, absurdly low prices. Five euros (less than $6) will buy any one of a half-dozen delicious Provencal roses and a quaffable Gigondas goes for $17. A perfectly baked baguette to accompany same? Under $2.

    But, OK, filling up my Peugeot hybrid SUV can cost $80-plus.

    Anyway, going forward I hope to resume posting blogs with reasonably substantive content every two to three weeks and thesportywineguy.com podcast will continue remotely thanks to the technical wizardry of my buddy Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com). Parzen is currently curtailing his globetrotting a bit, in part because the Trump tariff debacle has badly disrupted his Italian wine marketing/consulting business and also because he’s busy helping transform Emmit’s Place in his Westbury neighborhood into, seriously, a wine-drinker’s destination, as I noted in the blog that dropped yesterday.

    Late June will find us in Vichy, Debbie for a total immersion French class and me for lots of biking and wine-bar time. It’s one of France’s best-known and most beautiful spa towns, although it’s hard to erase from memory those dreadful years Vichy spent as the capital-in-exile of “free” France while the Nazis had Paris under their despicable boot heels. Truth to tell, we shouldn’t forget. As the philosopher Santayana famously warned, “Those who cannot remember the past are doomed to repeat it.”

    Pay attention, people.

  • Travels with Matthew . . . mais pas moi

    After two years and two delightful trips to the South of France and northwest Italy respectively, I’m out of the wine-travel business — long story and not one to share now — but my H-town bubbles buddy Matthew Massey has picked up the baton, offering a luxury tour of his own to Champagne this fall. Massey is eminently qualified because, although he’s a Galveston native, he has become the ultimate Champagne insider. You’ve surely heard of and hopefully tasted his Madame Zéro.

    I can both vouch for Madame Zéro and for Massey himself. His wines are excellent — all super-low dosage, hence the Zéro branding — and he’s a great guy to hang out with. The tour details can be found in detail at selectivity@madamezero.com, so there’s no need for me to go deep into the nuts and bolts here. Don’t tarry, though. He’s limiting his tour, set for Oct. 5-9 this fall, to eight clients. Based on my experience, that’s the perfect number. And, while eight-plus grand per person may sound like a lot of scratch, that’s imminently reasonable for what Massey’s got on tap with his clients.

    Given our awful political climate, by October you’ll really want/need to get out of Texas and I must say the French, based on my experiences over the past seven weeks, will be delighted to welcome you. They really do feel our pain.

    Emmit’s the Place to be Sunday

    My podcast partner in crime, Jeremy Parzen, loves music at least as much as he loves wine and that led him to forge a seemingly unlikely but fortuitous partnership with the famously friendly throw-back Westbury-area dive bar Emmit’s (emmitsplace.com). After playing a gig there with his Bio Dynamic Band — do love that name! — he pitched the owner on the idea of hosting family-friendly open-mike events on Sunday afternoons. She embraced the idea, so there will be another jam happening this Sunday starting at 2 p.m. The address is 4852 Benning Dr., just off South Post Oak.

    The Bio gang, featuring crooneur Katie White with Jeremy strumming a mean guitar, covers favorites from the ’70s and the ’80s. Tickets are five bucks to access the grounds, but the sound system is free to all. Still, please call ahead (713 728-0012) or contact Parzen directly (dobianchi.com) to let them know you want to play/sing. There could be a waiting list, based on early returns. Further, Parzen has created a small but thoughtfully curated wine list — new to Emmit’s if you haven’t been there in awhile — and mocktails are available for the kids.

    And, speaking of podcasts, check out our latest one wherever you get your podcasts. Through the wonders of technology, it will sound just like we’re hanging out at the” Parzen-age” in Westbury, never mind that I’m 5,350 miles away in the South of France.

    Oops, bad geography!

    Actually, as I’m typing this, I’m squarely in the heart of France, in Vichy to be precise. Students of 20th-century history might cringe at the thought, but in the year 2025 this is a beautiful bicycling-friendly town featuring myriad fine restaurants, a wide range of cultural activities, beautiful churches (my favorite is shown above) and a gorgeous park on the banks of the Allier River. Further, I sense a cool hipster vibe, although, approaching my 73rd birthday, I’m not sure I’m fully capable of recognizing same.

    My wife Debbie is here for two weeks of total-immersion French language classes at the Alliance Française’s celebrated Cavilam complex, and I tagged along to do a lot of biking and a little day-drinking (or vice versa). Although a couple of Tour de France stages that I covered back in the day finished here, I was in and out both times without spending a night, so this is new turf for me.

    Thus far, we’ve thoroughly enjoyed a splendid Michelin-recognized resto, L’Écrin de Màrlene (my veal dish and dessert pictured above), and a crazy-good wood-fired pizza place, San Remo. (My ethereal pizza pictured below). The latter was so delicious and so cheap that we returned on back-to-back nights and are tempted to dine there tonight as well. Right, if it ain’t broke . . .

    The coolest thing in town, however, is the free access to for-real Vichy mineral water at Les Celestines (pictured below). You simply arrive with a jug or five and start pumping. C’est merveilleux!

    Vichy, of course, remains of Europe’s most celebrated spa towns and, in fact, has been since Roman times. The French aristocracy of the late 18th century swarmed the place before the Revolution and it fully recovered under the generous patronage of Napoleon III in the 1860s — that’s me in front of the casino constructed on his watch in the photo below — then flourished again during the Belle Époque.

    But unfortunately the name Vichy will always be associated with Marshal Pétain’s collaborationist government, which setup shop here after Hitler’s Nazis took control of Paris in 1940. At the time, because of its mineral baths, Vichy had the country’s second largest hotel capacity and there weren’t many tourists to be had during those grim days. Less than 30 miles from the Demarcation Line, it was also well known to the Fascist prime minister, Pierre Laval, who was from a nearby town.

    When the Allies liberated France, Laval was summarily sentenced to death and executed. Pétain, who had been France’s greatest hero of World War I, also received a death sentence for treason, but his would soon be commuted to life in prison. Already 89, he died six years later.

    But none of that is of any import today. I, for one, am enthralled by 21st-century Vichy (and will certainly return. I suppose Debbie will as well, especially if she fails her French class. Just kidding!

    The Sports Page

    Wait, the Rockets got Kevin Durant? Da hell? Look, lest we forget, the last time they traded for a player of Durant’s Hall-of-Fame stature, they won an NBA championship! Of course, that title in 1995, with returning homeboy Clyde Drexler joining the team — fittingly — on Valentine’s Day, was a repeat of the the won they had claimed in 1994, pre Clyde. But, lest we also forget, there’s no Hakeem Olajuwon on the Rockers’ current roster.

    No matter. Let’s raise a thanks-for-rolling-the-dice-and-going-all-in glass of Madame Zero to GM Rafael Stone and his coach, Ime Udoka, whom, significantly, Durant speaks highly of. Udoka’s last season as an assistant coach was with Brooklyn in 2021, also Durant’s final season with the Nets. They bonded, it appears. This should be fun.

    And, as long as we’re toasting, kudos to ex-Astro Justin Verlander and Kate Upton and to ex-Texan J. J. Watt and his wife Kielia. Both couples have newborns!

  • Yep, I’ve been off the blogging grid for awhile now. Falling on my sword here. It has been a complicated, crazy 2025 as we contemplate spending most of this year and next in France’s gorgeous Ubaye Valley, but no excuses. There’s a lot to catch up on, so, as my friend Shawn Virene, the A’Bouzy owner, is wont to say, “Giddyup!” And, speaking of Virene, whom I’ve known for 20-odd — and even — years, I’ll get back to him and his new resto in a moment.

    Each of the following items deserves a blog of its own, but we’re going to be short and concise today. No, really.

    2022 Bordeaux rocks!

    Spec’s annual Bordeaux tasting has always been one of my favorites events of the year and the most recent one even exceeded my high expectations in large part because of the super high quality of some of the least expensive wines being showcased. One crazy standout was the Ampélia — pictured above — from François Despagne with a futures price of $15.19. No, that’s not a typo.

    In 1996, Despagne had inherited the Grand Corbin-Despagne estate from his family, which has owned that storied property in Saint-Emilion for seven generations, dating back to the 1700s. Seeking a fresh challenge three years later, he and his wife Murielle bought the five hectares in neighboring Castillon where the Ampélia grapes grow in a jumble of old-vine plots. The plot was special because, at 110 meters above sea level overlooking the plateau of Saint-Philippe d’Aiguilhe, it happened to be the highest place in all of Bordeaux.

    The name Ampélia is derived from the Greek Ampelos (the vine). Fresh and minerally — there’s plenty of limestone in the soil there — the wine is eminently ready to drink right now.

    “It’s not a cuvee,” Despagne points out. “It’s simply the optimal quality we can get from this terroir.”

    As for the vintage, it reminds of 2003 when summer temperatures also often soared of 100 degrees, producing many wines with high alcohol, low acidity and rich, bright fruit. While they may not age for long before fading, they’re going to be wonderfully enjoyable for the near term.

    However, despite the heat and long periods of drought, Bordeaux enjoyed heavy spring rains and a smattering of “showers at the right time (during the growing season) for the ripeness,” said Ivanhoe Johnson, one of the famed region’s most prominent négociants. “In the grapes, there was an amazing balance between softness, freshness and concentration. I never taste a vintage like this in my life.”

    And I can’t wait until these wines are on the shelf in H-town. My other favorites in the bargain range included Lacoste Borie ($30.14), Petit Ducru ($33.51), Echo de Lynch Bages ($47.82), Phelan Segur ($54.56) and D’Armailhac ($57.93). Among the big boys, the standouts for me were hardly surprising: Evangile ($307.84), Ducru Beaucaillou ($259.96), Pichon Comtesse ($243.28), Pichon Baron ($193.22) and Lynch Bages ($152.89).

    Note that none of the First Growths were presented. Oh well . . .

    High marks for a Texas merlot

    I think everyone knows by now that I hold Texas vintner Ron Yates and his wines, both from Spicewood and his eponymous estate in Hye, in the highest esteem. On my most recent visit to the latter, I got to taste the 2021 Ron Yates Friesen Vineyards Merlot, which was recently among the five finalists for best of show for that varietal in 2024 San Francisco International Wine Competition.

    No small feat that. The judges said the wine “enchants with aromas of dark cherry, vanilla, and cedar, balanced flavors of ripe berries, spice, and oak, and a lingering cherry finish.” I couldn’t agree more, and it’s only $40.99 for a bottle at ronyateswines.com.

    Only three of John Friesen’s 33 acres in the High Plains are planted to merlot, a grape that hasn’t historically distinguished itself in Texas. But, if you ask Yates and also Dr. Bob Young at Bending Branch Estates, two wineries that have been especially loyal Friesen customers, nobody does it better in the vineyard.

    Note that Friesen also offers his own merlot, from the 2022 vintage, priced at $55 from friesencellars.com.

    The Texas Wineslinger bids adieu

    Sadly for me, my great friend Russ Kane, who has written more knowledgably and passionately about Texas wines than anyone ever, has up and moved to the Atlanta suburb of Decatur, Ga., in order to spend more time with his family. At some point, however, I suspect he’ll start sniffing around Georgia’s vineyards. He simply won’t be able to help himself.

    To be sure, Texas vintners are going to sorely miss Kane. Like lots of folks, I was ignorantly dismissive of what the state’s wine-growers were doing in the vineyards and cellars until Kane provided much-needed wakeup call back in 2008, my first full year as the Houston Chronicle’s wine columnist. As Yates most recently proved, we’re in the big leagues — and have been for some time.

    Taste of Italy 2025

    This annual gathering, sponsored by the Italian American Chamber of Commerce for a dozen years now, gets better and better. For the last several springs, I’ve had the privilege of sitting on a panel that discusses the merits of pairing Texas barbeque with Italian wines. Well, duh! Of course, anything would taste great with Ara Malekian’s Harlem Road slowed-cooked meats (harlemroadtexasbbq.com). Classically trained in some of Switzerland’s finest kitchens, Malekian, shown below, came to Texas to reinvent himself as a pitmaster. He succeeded, to say the least.

    But this year we added a Mexican resto to the mix, Xalisko Cocina Mexicana in The Woodlands (xalisko.com). And guess what? Samples of chef Beatriz Martines’ inventive cuisine also worked splendidly with the Italians. Martines offers a serious wine list at Xalisko that happens to be sprinkled with excellent offerings from Italy, so she was a natural fit for the party.

    If you have to pick one Italian varietal to pair with either cuisine, I always default to barbera and, no, it’s not just for the perfect alliteration. Barbera’s have never been better, but their prices still make sense.

    The one we tasted in the pairing seminar, a 2022 Cerrino Barbera d’Alba, can be found at Spec’s for under $16. From the little hamlet of Trezzo Tinella, it’s bright and fruity with very nice acidity.

    A subsequent Italian wines event at AOC showcased producers I had missed at the Hilton: Parvus Ager (Lazio), Cantine Briziarelli (Umbria and Montefalco) and Cantina I Vini Di Maremma, I don’t think I’ve ever attended a better tasting featuring wines that, with three exceptions, were all priced under $20. And the others were under $40. Bravo!

    And get a load of this super-cool “box” wine from Briziarelli. It’s indeed made of cardboard with a liner inside. But none are in the U.S. yet.

    A gathering of eagles

    I rarely wear ties anymore, even at black-tie events, and long pants make me uncomfortable. But a recent invitation to join an august, historic group of local wine mavens for a private dinner at the Club Marigold forced me to put on grownup clothes.

    “Gotta wear a tie,” my host, Pete Creasey, said.

    Houston’s Seventh of April Club dates to 1964. Why the name? It seems the founders couldn’t come to any agreement on same so they opted to go with the date of their first gathering. The one I attended was No. 548 in the series. Chef Austin Waiter’s edgy, French-accented cuisine paired splendidly with the six wines members contributed from their personal cellars, starting with a 2017 Y de Chateau d’Yquem, the exquisite dry sibling the most famous of all Sauternes, and finishing with a “sticky” Chateau Guiraud Sauternes from the 2009 vintage paired with that gorgeous confection shown above.

    In between, we shared the 2018 Aubert Eastside Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay, the 2000 Cuvee Mon Aieul Châteauneuf-du Pape and the 2012 Sine Qua Non Stein Central Coast Grenache. Yessir, I liked hanging with these guys. Sure hope they invite me back before another six decades passes.

    California dreaming . . .

    Becomes a reality when the aforementioned Virene, whose bubbles list at A’Bouzy may be the best in Houston — it’s certainly the best-priced — opens his new restaurant Succulent in the Regent Square space, West Dallas at Dunlavy, that was so briefly occupied by Pastore. There, Virene’s focus will be California wines, with Napa Valley’s front and center. The menu will be built on seasonal ingredients from both the West coast and the Houston area, including Virene’s family-owned Huckleberry Farms in Round Top. He’ll even be growing herbs and vegetables on the premises.

    I’ve known Virene for most of the 40 years he has been in the restaurant business in Houston, starting when he was a young server at Ruggles on lower Westheimer. He adopted his aggressive wine-pricing model during his long tenure with Ibiza and Brasserie 19 and has continued to embrace same, bless him.

    Event of the week

    Master sommeliers Keith Goldston and Julie Dalton, colleagues in the Fertitta empire, go mano-a-mano at Vic & Anthony’s Thursday night in a pairings taste-off. They’ll each choose a wine to accompany three courses — a potato pave, king crab spaghetti and beef Wellington — and diners will pick the winner at the end of the evening. It seems a screaming deal for $200 per person, all inclusive. You can reserve one of the few remaining spots through eventbrite.com.