It’s time to start shopping for your sweetheart. You know it is, so don’t tarry any longer. And I’m here to help. The following wines checked all the boxes for me, although, being a cheapskate, several are on the expensive side, at least for my pensioner’s pocketbook. But, then again, how do we put a price on love?

Since I’ve got a bunch of wines for you today — bubbles plus a white, an orange and several reds, pictured above — time constraints prevent me from going into deep, super-geeky deal detail here about any one of them — I’m a very busy guy, OK? — but in most cases additional info can easily be found by clicking the listed links.

BUBBLES

Adami Bosco di Gica Prosecco Superiore

From the winemaker: “A straw yellow color. Creamy mousse and delicate, long-lasting bead. On the nose, it is rich, with excellent fruit, releasing scents of yellow apple and peach, with notes of wisteria and acacia blossom. Wonderful balance and elegance complement a pleasurably crispness. The palate holds delicious vein of acidity, displaying a crisp, savory mouthfeel. Generous, lingering flavors nicely mirror the nose and achieve perfect balance.”

From Vinous, which awarded a score of 91+: “Luminous straw-green in color. Honey, white flowers, crushed rocks and lemon oil all come alive in this nicely chiseled, creamy yet vibrant Prosecco. Showcases gorgeous balance and plenty of early appeal, but also offers plenty of richness and depth. This serious, luscious Prosecco, made from roughly 96 percent glera and four percent chardonnay, is my early candidate for Brut Prosecco of the year. The name of the wine derives from a very old forest located near the estate.”

From me: This refined and layered non-vintage sparkler is from the heart of Prosecco country, the DOCG of Valdobbiadene. You’d be hard-pressed to find better bubbles at this price point.

$22.99 at http://wine.com

2018 Argyle Vintage Brut Willamette Valley

From the winemaker: “A warm and dry summer lead to a concentrated, yet vibrant 2018 sparkling wine vintage in the Willamette Valley. Knudsen Vineyard, protected in the deep volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills, brings supple depth and elegance, while Spirit Hill Vineyard, in the windy and rocky volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills, brings energy and minerality. Orchard fruits, citrus peel, and toasted brioche are framed around a creamy center and long, graceful finish.”

From the Wine Spectator, which awarded a score of 93: “Delicate and refreshing, with layered strawberry, blood orange and spicy yeast accents that gather richness and polish on the finish.”

From me: I’ve been a fan of Argyle since I first tasted with its longtime winemaker, Texas Aggie Roland Soles. Soles has long since moved on to his venture, but I’ve seen not a bit of drop-off in quality in the wines, this bubbles blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier included. A delightful, romantic sparkler.

$30 at http://shopargylewinery.com

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “A blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir vinified as red wine. Radiant color with graceful effervescence, a persistent mousse, and fine bubbles rising slowly in the glass. Subtle and fine aromas leading to an expressive red berry flavor with citrus zest. Creamy and smooth on the palate, evolving to strawberries notes and a raspberry finish. Light, balanced and precise.”

From Jeb Dunnuck, who awarded a score of 94: “The palate is rounded, with fruit up front and through the mid-palate, and it has a silky and fresh lift. There is a wonderful ease and drinkability to this wine, which delivers balance and finesse. Best after 2022.”

From me: I rang in the New Year with the 2008 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis Blanc de Blancs 2008 and I will be toasting my bride of soon-to-be-49 years on February 14 with this gem. Pink champagne doesn’t get any better, at any price point, in my opinion . . . which must count for something because you’re reading this, right? Cheers!

$94.97 at http://wine.com

Schild Estate Sparkling Shiraz Barossa Valley

From the winemaker: “The nose shows a fragrant and fruit-forward with notes of blackcurrant, mulberry, and dark cherry aromas alongside more delicate hints of chocolate, spice, and roasted coffee bean all adding a supporting richness and interest. Complex dark berry fruits and rich chocolate on the palate work in harmony with a round creamy texture and soft supporting tannin profile. Refreshing mid palate acidity provides the important framework which cuts through the balanced sweetness and leads into a long and clean savory finish.”

From Wilfred Wong of wine.com, who gave a 92: “Exhibits aromas and flavors of raspberries, grape notes, dried leaves and spices. Enjoy it with barbeque baby back ribs in a slightly tart/sweet sauce.”

From me: It’s flat-out deee-licious!

$23.99 at http://wine.com

WHITE

2020 Macrostie Nightwing Vineyards Chardonnay Petaluma Gap

From the winemaker: “This is the inaugural vintage from Nightwing Vineyard, named after the indigenous nocturnal birds that keep a watchful eye on the land. This bright and alluring Chardonnay showcases aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and zesty lime. On the palate, it is rich and round, with lovely underlying power and luxurious flavors of ripe mango, citrus, and a touch of French oak.”

From the Wine Enthusiast: which awarded 94 points: “Very ripe, almost sweet pear and peach flavors are bolstered by good fruit acidity in this well-balanced wine. Complex accents of toasted almond and butter are layered into the delicious fruits.”

From me: What they said. No gilding the lily needed.

$48 at http://macrostiewinery.com

ORANGE

2020 Gerard Bertrand Orange Gold

From the winemaker: “The nose is complex, with an explosion of notes of white flowers, candied fruit and white pepper. On the palate, a very flattering aromatic freshness, with precise flavors and a beautiful balance to which the structure gives body and spirit. Sweet and fine, its texture envelops the palate. The tasting ends with a nice length in the mouth that prolongs the gustatory journey and sweet bitter touch that stimulates the taste buds.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which awarded a score of 90: “Kumquat, donut peach and Valencia orange meet marigold on the intriguing nose of this wine. The juicy palate is loaded with Valencia orange, peach and Granny Smith apple. This wine is dry and lightly tannic on the long finish but thoroughly enjoyable.”

From me: Six white varietals go into this sexy, out-of-the-box blend from the best producer in France’s Languedoc, who inevitably had to try his hand making orange wine. In short, Bertrand succeeded.

Sale price of $19.99 at http://wine.com

REDS

2019 Epicuro Aglianico Puglia

From the winemaker: “Shows intense blackberry and cherry notes harmoniously exalted by a light spicy background. Smooth and velvety with a firm backbone. Perfect with red meat, ham, and mature cheeses.”

From the Reverse Wine Snob: “Begins with a pleasing aroma of cherry, licorice, a little spice and a bit of apple. Taking a sip reveals lots of dark berry fruit and spice in this well put together wine . . . . Smooth and easy to drink some nice spice notes lead into the dry, medium-long finish.”

From me: Given the price of bottles and shipping costs in our COVID-challenged times, I have no earthly idea how a wine this good can possibly be sold for such a low price. But bless the D’Aquino Italian Importing Company and Trader Joe’s for their partnership.

$5.99 on the shelf at Trader Joe’s

2011 Kelly Fleming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

From the winemaker: “Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific effort in a very challenging year. Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. The 2011 stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

From the Wine Advocate, which awarded a score of 92: “A terrific effort in a very challenging year. Winemaker Celia Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. It stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential.”

From me: The Advocate went on to say it should be fully mature by 2024. I’d say it’s at its prime right now. This is the best cab I’ve tasted recently and I’ve tasted some very, very good ones, another one of which follows.

$200 at http://kellyflemingwines.com

2019 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

From the winemaker: “Carol’s Vineyard, named for Jerry Lohr’s late wife Carol, lies in northern St. Helena along the Napa River and is comprised of 27 acres of cabernet sauvignon and 4.3 acres of petit verdot. The well-drained, gravelly, sandy loam soils and Bordeaux-like climate of the Napa Valley are ideally suited to producing richly textured, luxury-quality fruit.

From Wine & Spirits Magazine, which awarded a score of 93: “A lean and spicy 2019. Lasting scents of fruity mushrooms and black plum skin give the wine dimension, while the tannins feel polished and powerful in their warm earth tones. The ripeness is spot on, sustaining a dynamic energy in the flavors.”

From me: W&S thinks it’s going to need 10 years to fully share its charms and those folks may be right. But it’s drinking very, very nicely now and who knows if I’ve got 10 years left to be patient. Carpe diem!

$59.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder Merlot Napa Valley

From the winemaker: “Grown on the eastern-facing slopes of Mt. Veeder, this merlot hits all the right notes. Lush and rich, but vivaciously youthful, it’s a graceful enigma. Notes of dark cherries, cedar, toasted oak and a long finish highlight this beauty.”

From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 95 (as did Jeb Dunnuck): “Aromas of spices, such as cloves, dark berries and some herbs. Full-bodied and layered with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Juicy and flavorful.”

From me: Chris Carpenter, a Napa legend, aged the wine for 22 months in mostly new oak, but it’s hardly an oak bomb. The titans of Bordeaux’s Right Bank would be proud to call this 100-percent merlot their own, too.

$94.99 at http://wine.com

H-town happenings

Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. http://eventbrite.com    

Cypress Sips Wine Brunch:  Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. http://eventbright.com

Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. http://eventbright.com     

Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. http://eventbrite.com 

Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . DeMeco Ryans

I care about the Texans again because of this hire. Ryans, whom I met on his first day of training camp as a rookie in 2006, is a smart guy and a class act through and through, cut from the same cloth as his coach back then, Gary Kubiak. After a long drought, the Texans have finally made a decision that’s beyond reproach.

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy  

Instagram: sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime has a cool new client in the Piemonte’s Nizza neighborhood, and it’s barbera-centric. He tells you all about it.

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

An example of great minds thinking alike here . . . Sandra shares the piece she wrote for Galveston Monthly about what to swirl and sip with your sweetie on Valentine’s Day.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger hones in on Spicewood Vineyards’ “The Independence” in another in his series on wines with special back stories.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

And yet another example of great minds thinking alike. Jeff nixes the notion that wine can safely be paired with chocolate, and I could not agree more. Don’t. Do. It. Bad for the wine and it doesn’t help the chocolate. One defensible exception: Banyuls with very dark chocolate.

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com):

Kat takes a look at everything going on with the Texas wine scene in the month of February.

It’s cleaning-out-the-email-inbox day today. There’s a lot happening that you need to be aware of.

But, first, watch this space for news of at least one wine tasting to be hosted by the Alliance Française Houston (http://alliancehouston.org) in March. Having been recently chosen – sentenced? – president of the Alliance’s board of directors, it’s my sworn duty to get wine front and center again. Through his popular monthly tastings, the late Bear Dalton put our 100-year-old house at 427 Lovett Blvd. in the heart of Montrose at the epicenter of the local swirling and sipping scene, and I’m determined to honor his legacy by getting some buzz back into the building, both literally and figuratively.

A certified wine legend in these parts, Bear can’t be replaced, but we must carry on without him, so we’re certain to host a tasting, probably in conjunction with Douglas Skopp and his Dionysus Imports wines (http://dionysusimports.com) because Doug is a board member, sometime in March. Why? Because March 20 is International Francophonie Day (Journée internationale de la Francophonie), a longstanding celebration of France’s language and culture. And wine, obviously, is a huge part of said culture.

Again, details forthcoming soon.

New sippin’ spots

I’m happy to report that west Houston has a very cool new wine bar called VinSanto (http://vinsantowine.com) – it opened recently in Memorial Green, where Vine Wine Bar used to be – and Fort Bend County will soon welcome Wine Vibes (http://winevibesmicrowinery.com), a “micro-winery”/bistro in Missouri City.    

Riccardo Guerrieri is the certified sommelier running the show at VinSanto, with considerable help from his partner, Giorgio Caflisch, and sommelier Stephanie Kukutschka. Guerrieri is no stranger to the scene here, having established his bona fides during his tenure at Vinology, and he’s bringing the same fun but sophisticated vibe to VinSanto, a wine bar, bistro and retail shop all in the same attractive package. Riccardo’s list isn’t the same ‘ol same ‘ol. “Hidden gem, off-the-beaten path” wines from Italy, France and Spain are front and center.

But he’s got a lovely, naturally made pet nat from Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast that’s well worth trying.

Caflisch, in turn, is a certified Italian Wine Scholar who teaches at the Texas Wine School, while Kukutschka was previously at Houston Wine Merchant.

VinSanto’s Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight, and Sunday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Meanwhile, Wine Vibes, part of the new development Sienna Crossing, will offer a similar mix of wining, dining and retail shopping plus the opportunity to make wine and even create one’s own labels when its doors open Feb. 7.

Chef Phillip Hare, the creative force behind Houston’s Red Cat Jazz Café, will be the general manager. Wine Vibes vision? According to the email I received: “To educate guests through an immersive experience by breaking through barriers of color and gender by pairing wine with inclusivity, and introducing the industry in an approachable, fun, and vibrant way.” Well, OK.

I’ll get my first look at VinSanto this Wednesday and have plans to visit Wine Vibes in early February.

Gulf Coast wine? You bet!

The 31^st annual Gulf Coast Winegrowers Watson Field Day, featuring viticulture and winemaking presentations, research-related wine tastings, commercial exhibits and networking for both experienced and prospective grape growers and wine makers, takes place from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Feb. 3, at the Cat Spring Agriculture Society Hall in Cat Spring. It’s again presented in partnership with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension and Capital Farm Credit.

Our neck of the woods isn’t the easiest place to be a winegrower, but lots of folks have figured it out and will be sharing their hard-earned knowledge. Registration at the door opens at 7:30am and the price is $50 for GCWA members, $60 for non-members and $25 with Student ID. A lunch sponsored by Sensor Insight and a networking social are included. Non-members may join GCWA at registration. Visit the Gulf Coast Winegrowers Association on Facebook for additional information.

Wining in the Hill Country

Forty-plus wineries will be participating in a nearly month-long, free-form celebration of all things grape in Texas’ most scenic AVA. From January 30 to February 24, one can visit up to four wineries per day, receiving complimentary tastings and 15-percent discounts on purchases of up to three bottles for only $100 per couple or $65 per person.       

The revenue from ticket sales go to the Texas Hill Country Wineries Association (http://texaswinetrail.com), which works to encourage the growth and development of the of the wine industry in its backyard, and also to the Texas Hill Country Wineries scholarship program that supports local students pursuing careers in the wine industry.

Go to https://texaswinetrail.com/wine-lovers-celebration for all the details, including a list of the participating venues.

H-town happenings

Aperitive Italiano — Amore Italian Style: 7-8 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at The Italian Cultural and Community Center (iccchouston.com). Eventbrite.com.

Il Poggione Dinner with winemaker/export manager Alessandro Bindocci: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31. 713 664-7581 or romahouston.com

End of Dry January Blind Wine Tasting: 6 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at We Olive & Wine Bar (weolive.com). sercawines.com. $35. Eventbrite.com

Cruise through Chianti with Jeremy Parzen: 7 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 2: Vinology. $65. http://vinologyhouston.com

Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. Eventbrite.com    

Cypress Sips Wine Brunch:  Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. Eventbrite.com

Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. Eventbrite.com     

Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. Eventbrite.com  

Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com

Sippin’ with Sporty

2019 William Chris Vineyards Fovel Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Texas Hill Country

The back label promises “Real. Texas. Wine.” But it’s missing the word “good” between “Real” and “Texas.” This is a superb effort from the boys in Hye, one of the best cabernets from anywhere that I’ve tasted in a long while. The Fovel Vineyard is located a couple miles northeast of Fredericksburg. $60 at http://shopwilliamwineschris.com (I might add that the 2020 William Chris Enchante, a Bordeaux-style blend, is also well-worth trying, too.)

2019 Colene Clemens Vineyards Margo Pinot Noir

Winemaker Stephen Goff, who has been with the winery since its founding in 2008 by Joe and Vickie Stark, uses only estate fruit grown in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains AVA. It’s a very Burgundian pinot noir, which should be taken as a compliment. The Wine Spectator awarded a score of 94. A wonderful new find for me! Colene, fyi, is Vicki’s mother and Margo is is Colene’s greaet granddaughter. $42 at http://coleneclemens.com

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Feigen

I don’t know how my longtime former Chronicle sports department colleague keeps his sanity covering the current-generation Rockets. I really don’t. The NBA beat is the hardest of them all even when a season is going swimmingly, and the baby Rockets are, of course, drowning. But Jonathan, who’s not that much younger than I am and I’m already four years retired, still brings passion and intelligence to his every story, most of which offer at least a tiny measure of optimism. Bravo and bon courage, my friend!

Pouring one out for . . . Stephen Silas

At this stage of his career, which may not last much longer, he’s the losing-est coach in NBA history. Talk about being in the wrong place at the wrong time. And, worse, he’s had to also process his father Paul’s death during this most dreadful of Rockets season (again). I don’t know the young man, but he seems to be a smart, decent fellow who took the wrong job at the wrong time.    

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Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner is crime will be going deep into Chianti, covering every angle of what’s Italy’s most evocative — and misunderstood — wine. Parzen will host a seminar Thursday evening, Feb. 2, with six wines, including a vin santo, to be tasted and explored in detail. Go to his web site to register.

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger touts the aforementioned Watson Field Day and suggests we try the Duchman Salt Lick Vineyard the next time you have a pizza. Speaking of which, Russ is has become a master pizza maker using his new Ooni, the creme de la creme of home-use pizza ovens. Note that he’s also teaching his Specialist of Texas Wine Level 1 at AOC in February. You can register at his site.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

Jeff reports on the best random samples he has received recently from wineries and their marketing teams. Yep, dirty thankless work . . .

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com):

Kat gives us the skinny on the wonderfully varied wines of Sicily through the Donnafugata lineup and throws in a bit of a travelogue, too.

         

Back in the day, most Bordeaux wines weren’t all that expensive, which was a good thing because I loved the wines of Bordeaux and I wasn’t making all that much money. But, in 1985, a bottle of 1982 Margaux, a First Growth 100-point Robert Parker tout, could be had at Spec’s for $60. I was still paying under $40 for lesser Classed Growth futures through the memorable 2000 vintage.

Once Bordeaux prices went crazy, though, I wandered off to other regions, such as the Southern Rhone Valley, looking for better value. I probably didn’t buy 10 bottles of Bordeaux over the first two decades of the 21st century. I wasn’t alone, either. Arguably, no region had become more passé because, by and large, quality hadn’t kept up with the exponentially rising costs.

However, a Frenchman turned Houstonian has made it his mission to change that. Jean-François Bonneté, who moved here in 2011 and, with his wife Natalie, eventually launched an import business called BCI, then became vintners themselves. Their lineup of Liberation of Paris wines — the name pays tribute to a memorable chapter in his family’s history, which we’ll get to in a moment — has been available in Houston for several years and offers excellent value, with prices ranging from just under $12 to just over $20. But Bonneté has recently gone a step further in the bargain department with a new pink, a red and a white that carry the family name on the label and sell for $9.95, cash price, at Spec’s.

Impossible, you say? Nope. And, yep, they’re damned satisfying. The full-flavored non-vintage designated red, made from biodynamically-farmed cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in and around the Bordeaux AOC (that’s why it’s a Vin de France) has in fact become a go-to pour at Chez Robertson, pairing splendidly as it does with red sauce pasta dishes, pizza, burgers and cheese/charcuterie platters. It’s not a wine that requires a lot of deep thinking or geeky analysis. It may or may not age all that well, but who cares? I’m not planning to lay any down.

As for the Liberation of Paris story, the label became Bonneté’s way of paying tribute to an American GI who had befriended his father as a young boy not long after the D-Day landing, giving him comfort — and some chewing gum — on the side of the road as the soldier and his fellow troops were making their way to Paris. Joel Bonneté, now in his 80s, has loved the U.S. since that chance encounter and had always encouraged Jean-François to embrace this country. He has, and Houston’s budget-conscious wine-lovers are the better for it. You’ll find the Bonneté wines in some 40 Spec’s stores today.

Spoke too soon

In my last missive in this space, I reported that the South of France wine tour I’m co-leading with Pablo Valqui in late May/early June was sold out. Well, it’s not. We still have two spots left, it seems. Go to http://gourmettours.biz for all the details tasting our way through Provence, the Southern Rhone Valley and the Languedoc . We’re going to have a spectacularly good time, I promise!

Sippin’ with Sporty

2020 Rizzi Dolcetto d’Alba

This is one of the best dolcettos I’ve come across in a good while, and it’s widely available at Spec’s stores around town. Rizzi’s estate fruit grows in Treiso near Barbaresco, an area well-suited for the varietal despite nebbiolo’s being the big dog in the neighborhood. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures for eight days with malolactic fermentation following for a month, then aging in tanks for six months. A ruby-purple in color, it’s both floral and spicy with surprising nuance. $23.99 at Spec’s

Kings of Prohibition Shiraz

This bold and tasty non-vintage Australian shiraz has much in common with the Bonneté cab, offering satisfaction way above its price point and pairing with all the same comfort foods, from burgers to pizza to spicy pastas. It’s to be enjoyed, not analyzed. $12.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Goldeneye Ten Degrees Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Goldeneye in Anderson Valley in 1996, thinking they’d secured some of the best pinot noir terroir in the world. They were right. The Ten Degrees is a blend from the very best lots of the Confluence, Gowan Creek and The Narrows Vineyards. Following a nearly perfect growing season and harvest, fermentation took place using a mixture of whole cluster destemmed fruit with both native and inoculated ferments, all punched down twice daily in small three-ton open top tanks for an average of 14 days. Aging in French oak lasted 16 months. $130 at http://goldeneyewinery.com

H-town happenings

Pop-Up Wine Night with Serca Wines: 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 12. http://sercawines.com $35. http://eventbright.com

JMP Wine Night Featuring Orin Swift Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 19. JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://jmpwines.com $70. http://eventbrite.com

Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Damar Hamilin

And here’s hoping he’ll play football again. Should he? That’s another question. But we learned from his frightening on-field cardiac arrest what a fine young man Damar is, and he deserves the chance to resume chasing his dreams. I’ll be pulling hard for the Bills to win the Super Bowl for him. That would be a very cool story.

Pouring one out for . . . Lovie Smith

Look, Lovie did a lousy job of coaching this season, even if he’s not a lousy coach. He should have gotten fired. Hell, he should have wanted to get fired. But Smith’s departure won’t fix anything that’s wrong with the terminally screwed-up Texans, arguably top to bottom North America’s worst sports franchise.

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Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): On Martin Luther King day, Jan. 23, my podcast partner in crime and his wife Tracie will be participating in a protest against the “Neo-Confederate” Memorial in Orange, where Tracie grew up and much of her family still lives. He writes: “We will be there from 1-3 p.m. Please join us to show solidarity for the Black community.” If you have questions, contact him at jparzen@gmail.com Nothing else to say but . . . Bravo, Parzens!

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): The Texas Wineslinger reviews his most popular blogs of 2022.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff writes about the best wines he has tasted of late that weren’t sent to him as free samples. Which is to say, by and large he actually PAID for them. Novel concept . . . (smiley face emoji here).

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat weighs in on five wine trends she’s looking forward to in 2023.

New Year’s Eve has never been a particularly important holiday for me because I spent far too many of them on the road, alone in a Marriott hotel room somewhere, waiting for the next-day’s “big” game. But those days are long over, so I suppose it’s time to re-assess, especially since I’m four months into my seventh decade on this troubled orb of ours. I can say this for certain: Never have I more gratefully metaphorically turned a page than I did Saturday night.

Last January 1, I awoke to the news that I was negative for COVID-19, terrific news because I was 72 hours from undergoing a much-needed hip replacement. But, by nightfall, I had received another test result — from the hospital where the surgery would take place — informing me that, nope, I was positive and my operation would have to be pushed back a month. A gut punch, to say the least, given the pain I was in. It’s a good thing I’ve always been allergic to firearms.

What helped hugely, though was the arrival of a new four-legged child on Jan. 6. Little Coco, an exuberant six-month-old Pomeranian puppy, provided great comfort during that difficult patch. Ultimately the surgery would take place on January 20 and it couldn’t have gone more swimmingly, thanks to the skills of Dr. Ken Mathis, a rock star in his own right. After four days, I’d ditched the walker and within three weeks I was back on the bike, pain-free and pedaling like a crazy person. Debbie and I headed off to France on schedule, then spent an absolutely splendid spring there, enjoying our gorgeous little off-the-beaten-path Alpine valley with friends, new and old. Our best trip ever, we declared it.

It was certainly Coco’s, who proved to be a perfect traveler in her maiden voyage as a frequent flyer.

But returning to Houston in sweltering mid-June brought new adventures — and sweeping changes. A wee-hours trip on the staircase leading from our bedroom down to the kitchen could have been catastrophic had I landed on the new right hip, but instead I only made my already messed-up left knee exponentially worse. A series of PRP injections (that’s platelet-rich-plasma, fyi) got me mobile again, but a loud message had been clearly delivered. I was done with stairs. And Debbie was done with bagging fallen magnolia leaves in 100-plus-degree heat.

Our Montrose home, hard by Buffalo Bayou Park and special in every way imaginable, went on the market. It sold quickly — for well above the asking price — and we became renters for the first time in 47 years. But whereas our original apartment on Hermann Drive, long since torn down, had maybe 500 square feet and cost $135 a month, our new one is 18 floors above Kirby Drive with a panorama that includes downtown, the Medical Center and Greenway Plaza. Whole Foods is across the street. Yes, it’s priced accordingly.

Because Debbie and met living in Moody Towers, brand new in the fall of 1970 on the University of Houston campus, we weren’t strangers to high-rise living, so this move feels like closing a circle. Also, I now wake up to a view of the Astrodome, which is what brought me to H-town in the first place.

We took possession of the apartment and began moving stuff in on Sept. 25, with Debbie leaving for France the next day. That evening, after dining with a friend, we headed back to the house in separate cars. Debbie’s made it. Mine didn’t. At the intersection of Allen Parkway and Montrose, two blocks from home, a young man ran a red light at 30 m.p.h. and nearly T-boned me. Had he, I would likely have been killed. A Z4 is no match for an Expedition. Fortuitously, only the Beemer, barely 11 months old, was beyond repair. I escaped with my hip intact — again — and nothing worse than a minor blackeye caused by the airbag.

Still shaken, I got Debbie to the airport the next day in her car . . . then promptly ran out of gas on the way home. Nonetheless, the rest of the move went smoothly and I followed her to the Alps a week later. We had another fabulous stay and even 40 hours spent trapped in travel hell on the return didn’t dim our enthusiasm for our new high-in-the-sky life. Further, I had a cool new ride waiting for me when I got back. I can’t say enough good things about the folks at Liberty Mutual. They’re as fair as their commercials are funny.

Despite the delays, I arrived just in time to watch the Astros’ close out the Phillies in the World Series. A successful fundraiser I helped orchestrate for Houston’s Alliance Française followed in early December and, just a few days ago, the wine-tasting tour through the South of France I’m co-hosting with my new best friend, Pablo Valqui, sold out.

One final challenge was losing my “sportwineguy” domaine — long story, which began with us getting hit with some pretty serious credit card fraud — but I was able to lock up “thesportywineguy” as a replacement. So, by any measure, 2022 ended way better than it began.

Now here we are, starting fresh in 2023, optimistic that the next 12 months — and hopefully many more months after that — will be free of health issues and heartache. At our age I know that’s asking a lot, but fingers and toes are crossed because there are still many wines to sample, and plenty of topics to both blog and podcast about, the latter with my like-minded buddy Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com). I intend to keep the petal to the proverbial metal because, as my favorite philosopher, Charles Barkley, was always wont to say, “Life is short and death is long.”

My celebratory bottle of bubbles for ringing in the New Year? See below. To again quote Sir Charles, “Hey, somebody’s gotta be me.”

Cheers!

Sippin’ with Sporty

I know, this is supposed to be a wine blog. Sorry for the digression above. Here we go . . .

2021 J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay

Although the wine, made from chardonnay grown in Arroyo Seco, tastes classically Californian, it was made using traditional Burgundy methods such as malolactic fermentation and a weekly stirring of the lees, used, explains winemaker Kristen Barnhisel, “to complement the aromatics, while also adding a creamy palate texture and long finish.” Aging lasted in barrell, sur lie, for eight months, 24 percent new. $25 at http://jlohr.com

2021 Hampton Water Languedoc Rose

Wine.com’s Wilfred Wong calls this collaboration between the Languedoc’s Gerard Bertrand and rocker Jon Bon Jovie’s one, Jessie Bongiove “one of the world’s most consistent pink wines. (Dad got to know Bertrand performing at his summer jazz festival near the Narbonne shore.) It’s floral, fruity and minerally all at once and delicious year around. Wong scored the wine a 91. It earns 100 points for value, especially for the $17.99 sale price at Kroger right now.

2019 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon

I finished the year with yet another reference-standard California cabernet, this blockbuster from the Chappellet family, which turned Napa Valley’s Pritchard Hill into one of the world’s most revered and renowned wine locales, certainly for cab-centric blends, since the winery’s founding in 1967. Five national critics scored the Chappellet’s flagship 93 or higher with offering more eloquent praise than James Suckling, who described it as being “voluptuously full bodied, with a lavish structure and supple tannins framing the ripe dark berry and blackcurrant flavors.” $289.95 at http://wineexpress.com

H-town happenings

Pop-Up Wine Night: 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 12. Serca Wines. http://sercawines.com $35. http://eventbright.com

JMP Wine Night Featuring Orin Swift Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 19. JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://jmpwines.com $70. http://eventbrite.com

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . J. J. Watt

Like Earl Campbell, J. J. became a bit of a shooting star in our midst, delivering only a few great seasons before injuries took their toll. But so great were they that, like Earl, he’s a certain first-ballot Hall-of-Famer as one of only two men to be named Defensive Player of the Year three times. (Lawrence Taylor was the other.) Also, like the Tyler Rose, he never got that championship. No matter. He was a championship human being, and as beloved as any athlete who ever stepped between the lines on H-town’s behalf. Surely, Cal McNair will do the right thing and make sure J.J. retires as a Texan.

Pouring one out for . . . Péle

In the 20th century, there were two truly transcendent, force-of-nature athletes, Muhammad Ali and Edson Arantes do Nascimento. The globe was indeed their stage, sans hyperbole. My favorite Péle story: When he and his Santos team traveled to Nigeria in 1967, a 48-hour cease-fire in a savage civil war then raging in the country was declared in order to allow both sides to watch him play. He died Dec. 29 at the age of 82.

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy  

Instagram: sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): My podcast partner in crime looks back on a most memorable year for his family, which celebrates its first Christmas in their new Westbury home.

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): Russ chooses his favorite Texas wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The 2019 Bending Branch Malbec ranked No. 1.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff picks his 10 favorite sparkling wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brute was his bubbles bottle of the year.

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat recounts her adventures in Healdsburg, her travel destination for this holiday season.

I’d already been contemplating re-visiting this story, knowing how hard COVID-19 had been on the restaurant industry, when Jodie Schmal, my friend and former colleague at the Chronicle, reached out, asking me to research same for her. (A classic example of great minds thinking alike!) Folks who are still doing it the right way, even after the financial hit the pandemic caused, deserve a shout-out and nobody does it better than Bill Floyd with his Porta’Vino restaurants on the western edge of the Heights and in The Woodlands. His wine pricing model is off the charts as far as being customer-friendly and he allows BYOB, too. Every time I see Bill I just want to hug him.

At any rate, I wrote the piece that follows for the Chronicle. (https://www.houstonchronicle.com/food-culture/restaurants-bars/articleComments/Houston-Restaurants-Best-Wine-Deals-17666611.php) As you’ll see, we bargain-chasers aren’t as well off as we used to be, but Houston still offers much better value than probably any market in the country because of the likes of Floyd, Charles Clarke, Grant Cooper, Shawn Virene and the Brandanis out in Fort Bend County.

Years ago, chef Charles Clark first spoke of his plans for a restaurant that would offer wines at just over their retail cost, and he delivered the goods when Ibiza opened in Midtown. These days Clark presides over Brasserie 19 and, although his markups have increased of late — blame the bottom-line pain wrought by the COVID-19 pandemic, he and others in the hospitality industry say — there’s still plenty of value to be found on the well-curated list.

Ditto the lists at Coppa and Flora, run by Clark’s former partner, Grant Cooper. Clark and Cooper may have parted ways, but they’re still on the same page when it comes to making customers smile rather than cringe when they’re looking for a special bottle. Their wine-pricing model inspired others including a’Bouzy’s Shawn Virene, as well as Bill Floyd, who considered their game plan a no-brainer: The lower the markup, the more bottles you’re going to sell, and your happy customers become loyal customers.

Floyd took the model to Potente, the posh spot downtown that he ran for Astros owner Jim Crane (note: prices have jacked way up there since Floyd left) before going out on his own with Porta’Vino. Flying against the pandemic grain, he broke all the old-school pricing rules with more than half of the wines on the Porta’Vino list selling for less than you would pay for them in retail, even at value-driven chains such as Spec’s and Total Wine.

And Floyd is doing this despite offering his guests the option of bringing their own wines from home. Call him the Crazy Eddie of restaurateurs, but he has done as many as 400 covers on a Saturday night at his Washington Avenue location, and a second one in The Woodlands has been a hit, too. Some of the folks who come for dinner find themselves leaving with four or five cases because of deals on wines such as Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay ($46 at Porta’Vino; $47.50 at Spec’s), Flora Springs Trilogy ($55; $81 at wine.com) and Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($79; $90 at wine.com). Silver Oak is one of the more ubiquitous on-premise wines in our area; its price range is $79 to $200 according to Somm.ai, an alcohol beverage data company co-founded by Houstonian Jeremy Hart.

Unfortunately, markups of 400-percent or more are now routinely seen after having seemingly trended downward pre-COVID. Still, thanks to Porta’Vino and the other restaurants listed below, where multiples under 250 percent tend to be the norm, Houston continues to offer better wine value than most major American markets.

a’Bouzy

Champagne and other sparkling wines rule the roost here with prices for everyone’s budget on the voluminous list, starting with a lovely Provençal sparkler, the Jacques Pelvas Grande Cuvee, for $24. Markups are mostly less than twice retail and the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut is $64 per bottle, almost six bucks less than wine.com’s price. Prices range from $12 for a liter of Jolie Folle Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley to $1,352 for a 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, which is about $1,100 online. Several large-format bottles cost more. 2300 Westheimer 

Brandani’s Restaurant & Wine Bar

Ron and Claire Brandani seem to offer better value than any other suburban Houston restaurant that has a for-real wine list. Prices range from $29 for the Duchman Texas Vermentino to $1,800 for a bottle of the 2016 Harlan Estates red blend. (The latter’s tariff is only about double the cheapest online price for the legendary cult wine.) And the La Jota Howell Mountain Merlot goes for $130, compared to $110 on wine.com. 3340 FM 1092 in Missouri City 

Brasserie 19

It was a sad day when the price of one of the city’s most popular rosés, the Domaine de Mourchon Loubie, went from under to $25 to almost $50 on the list here, but most markups remain south of two-and-a-half times retail. Charles Clark’s prices now range from $28 for the Dau Sauvignon Blanc ($17 at wine.com) to $120 for the Howell Mountain Vineyards Cab, which sells for about the same online. 1962 W. Gray

Coppa Osteria

Many markups on the Italian-heavy lists are less than double, including the G. D. Varja Barolo at $84. Bottle prices start at $24 for the Col D’ Orcia Spezieri, a sangiovese-ciliegiolo blend, and the Castiglione Del Bosco Dainero, which pairs merlot with sangiovese, to $488 for two Roberto Voerzio Barolos. (Note that one of the aforementioned, the same 2017 Cerequio, is also on the list at Marmo in Montrose for $990, an almost 500-percent markup.) 5210 Morningside in Rice Village

Flora Mexican Kitchen

Cooper’s prices start at $25 for the lively Portal da Calcada Vihno Verde from Portugal. The most expensive wine is the 2012 L’Evangile from Pomerol for $295, about twice what it would retail for, and that’s the norm for most the wines on the list. Dom Perignon goes for $190 a bottle, only $30, give or take, more than retail. 3422 Allen Parkway in Buffalo Bayou Park

Giacomo’s Cibo e Vino

Most of Lynette Hawkins’ wines are less than double what they would sell for in a store or online. One example is the delicious Roagna Perpentue d’Alba at $40 per bottle, compared to $25 retail. Prices range from $20 for the Marenco Pineto Brachetto d’Acqui to $600 for Emidio Pepe’s 2000 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The vast majority of Hawkins’ wines sell for well under $100. 3215 Westheimer

Porta’Vino

No markups are higher than 50 percent and more than half of the wines sell for less than retail. The bottle price range is $29 for several whites and sparklers to $316 for both the Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon and Opus One Red Blend. Note that the latter goes for $365 at the winery’s Napa Valley tasting room. 5610 Washington 

Post Beer and Wine

Having opened in the early days of COVID, this super-casual spot remains a bit under the radar, but its wine program and pricing deserve our attention. The most expensive bottle in the Pursued By Bear Cab from Washington State, priced at $150, is a little more than double the retail tariff. The cheapest wines are an Italian Chardonnay from Tenuta San Vito and the Yves Cuilleron Cabernet Franc from France’s Northern Rhone at $40 per bottle. 6417 N. Main

Zanti Cucina Italiana

The two locations — the original is in The Woodlands and another opened not long ago in River Oaks — have their share of overpriced wines, but there are bargains to be found, too. Consider the Gaja Sito Moresco, which is about $70 retail, costs $116; and the Jordan Chardonnay is $75, when you’d pay $42 in a shop. Prices start at $32 for the Cascina Chicco Roero Arnesi. 1958 W. Gray

Sippin’ with Sporty

Goldeneye Anderson Valley Brut Rose

Anderson Valley is arguably America’s counterpoint for Champagne and this complex bottle of pink bubbles seems to prove the point. The blend is 63 percent pinot noir with the rest chardonnay. It was crafted in the traditional method and spent 24 months en tirage. You’ll taste blood orange, honeydew and hazelnut notes, which, together, taste very, very good. $70 at http://goldeneyewinery

2020 Cuvaison Hedon Chardonnay

Made from the-best-of-the-best estate fruit in Los Carneros, where Cuvaison put down roots way back in 1969, the wine spent 18 months on the lees and was 100 percent barrel-fermented in both French and American oak, about two-thirds new. It shows beautiful balance and bright acidity. “Lush” seems the perfect descriptive adjective for Steven Rogstad’s small-lot gem. Rogstad has been in charge of winemaking at Cuvaison since 2002 so, yes, he knows his terroir. $60 at http://cuvaisonwines.com

2019 The Pact Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon

From the folks at Faust, this cab showcases what a terrific AVA once-unheralded Coombsville has become. Bright fruit flavors combined with silky tannins and a lovely long finish make for a nearly perfect wine. James Suckling scored it a 96 while both the Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate awarded 93s. From winemaker David Jelinek: “The Pact 2019 lives up to Faust legend with beautiful dark blueberry and blackberry aromas over layers of crushed rock minerality, haunting forest notes and hints of violet. With the texture of velvet — luxuriously dense — the palate wraps that core of blue and back fruit with the barest edge of bright cherry spiced with star anise and savory dried tarragon. Silky tannins and generous ripe fruit linger through an endless, vibrant finish. There’s a long life ahead for this Cabernet.” Suckling suggests holding off drinking until 2024, if you have the patience. I didn’t. $129 at http://wine.com

H-town happenings

Pop-Up Wine Night: 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 12. Serca Wines. http://sercawines.com $35. http://eventbright.com

JMP Wine Night Featuring Orin Swift Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 19. JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://jmpwines.com $70. http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy  

Instagram: sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): My podcast partner in crime looks back on a most memorable year for his family, which celebrates its first Christmas in their new Westbury home.

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): The Texas Wineslinger has a “news flash” on the 2023 Texas Wine Certification courses he’ll soon be teaching at the Texas Wine School. He also takes a close look at Kerrville Hills Winery’s intriguing Teroldego. Yep, that’s a grape varietal.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff reports on a recent group blind tasting of North American pink sparkling wines that he conducted.

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat offers a rundown on Texas wine world happenings during the holiday season.

The Sports Page

Pouring one out for . . . Franco Harris

I got to know Harris during the Houston Oilers’ Luv ya Blue era because the road to the Super Bowl always led through Pittsburgh, and the Hall-of-Fame running back was one of many larger-than-life Steelers who routinely wreaked havoc on the Oilers. He was also an extraordinarily nice guy. We played tennis together a couple times after he retired and he was damned good at that, too. Harris’ death at 72 this week came only days before the 50th anniversary of his “Immaculate Reception,” an impossible catch — and possibly a non-catch, too, because there were no replays then, of course — that turned into a 60-yard touchdown reception, giving the Steelers their first playoff victory since 1947 and proving a precursor to one of the most dynastic runs in NFL history. In Harris’ final AFC Championship Game seven years later, a 27-13 victory over the Oilers, he pounded 21 times for 85 yards on a day when fellow Hall-of-Famer Earl Campbell’s 17 carries netted but 15 yards. No Houston team has been that far in the postseason since, the longest drought by 10 seasons among the league’s current cities.