This post has nothing to do with wine, but those of you who still follow the Texans may find it interesting. I first interviewed DeMeco Ryans on his 23rd birthday, which coincided with his first Texans training-camp practice in 2006. I’ve rarely been more impressed with a rookie than I was with the well-spoken Ryans, who, 17 years later, has returned as the Texans’ head coach . . . still trying to get them to the Super Bowl.
The prospect of having an undersized rookie start for them at middle linebacker this season should make the Texans cringe.
Except for one thing. Last year an undersized rookie started at middle linebacker for the Seattle Seahawks, who weren’t seen cringing until they had lost the Super Bowl.
No, Lofa Tatupu couldn’t beat the Pittsburgh Steelers by his lonesome. That would have been a bit much to ask. But, fresh from the playing fields of Troy, the USC product definitely had a good enough season on Seattle’s behalf for everyone in Houston to keep an open mind about DeMeco Ryans, a Tatupu type who lined up in the middle for the Texans’ defense Monday morning.
“Ideally, it’s nice to have a veteran in that position,” concedes defensive coordinator Richard Smith, who is quick to remind that Ryans isn’t yet permanently ensconced as the MLB. “But if the cards are dealt another way, that’s all right, too. Right now the position is competitive. We moved him to the ‘Mike’ today. You never know what might happen tomorrow. Everybody’s trying to earn a position.
“We’re really pleased with what we saw in the mini-camps and off-season work. DeMeco is very knowledgeable and was obviously well-coached in college. (The job) isn’t too big for him. We think his movement skills are perfect for the position. He’s smart. He’ll handle it. He upgrades the athletic ability at the position.”
Defying conventional wisdom, the Seahawks had reached the same conclusions last summer about Mosi Tatupu’s son and look how nicely things panned out for them. The conference title was the first for the franchise in its 30 seasons.
Like Tatupu, Ryans comes from a college football colossus, Alabama. He knows what big games in front of big crowds are all about, so he’s psychologically prepared for the aura of the NFL, as was the former Trojan. Also, Ryans and Tatupu weigh about the same, close to 240 pounds. And, although Ryans lost points with the pickiest draft analysts because he’s “short” for an NFL linebacker, he’s 6-1, which makes him an inch or two taller than Tatupu.
The Texans love his intelligence and athleticism. They have concluded there’s only one real question to answer about the man they made the first pick of the second round of the draft: Can he handle calling the defensive signals and still play instinctively? Smith will spend the preseason ferreting out the answer.
“As with anything,” the coach said, “he’s going to learn with experience and game-time situations. If he can, it’s a bright spot for the organization.”
Ryans intelligence isn’t at issue. He made the SEC’s Academic All-Conference team in each of his last two seasons at Alabama. Head coach Gary Kubiak calls him “studious” in the classroom and “accountable” on the field.
“The kid loves to play,” he said. ” If you could see him in a meeting room and the way he goes about his business for Joe (Marciano) and our team, he’s like a seven or eight year veteran already. He’s a great kid, and we knew that. His character is tops, and is football is pretty good, too.”
Ryans, for his part, doesn’t appear to be overly stressed by the responsibility he may be asked to bear.
“It’s a little harder,” he said. “In college everybody turned to the sideline and got the signals. Here, one person gets them and relays to the defense. I did it in high school. For me, it’s like going back to high school a little bit.
“You’ve got to have your mental part cleaned up so you can go out and be confident with what you’re doing. If you’re having to think too much you can’t get the job done.”
All things being equal, Ryans admits he prefers being the MLB to playing on the flanks, but he’ll go where he’s put. After his NFL career officially began on his 23rd birthday – with the opening of his first training camp Friday – he seems excited just to walk onto the field every morning, the heat and the drudgery be hanged.
“I think it was hotter in Alabama,” he said, flashing a smile you’ll see often when he speaks. “I’m just glad I have the opportunity to come out here and compete for a starting job. I’m trying to get better, to hone my skills. I like the middle, but it doesn’t matter. I feel blessed to have the opportunity. A lot of people wish they could be in your shoes. Honestly, I don’t think I could have ended up in a better place.”
Ryans grew up near Tuscaloosa, breathing in the Alabama football tradition from the day he was old enough to know what a football was. The Texans’ comparatively sterile environs couldn’t be more different. He’s taken by the newness of everything, not the least of which is Kubiak’s coaching staff.
So far, the NFL’s 32nd franchise has only known defeat in its four seasons. Ryans sees a role for himself in changing that.
“I’m in a place where I have a chance to prove something,” he said. “Other teams have had the great players who paved the way. Now I’ve got a chance to be one of those for this organization. Here we’re a new team with new coaches that’s up and coming. I like that. It’s a way to establish our own tradition and get things going in the right way. It’s time to put the bad seasons behind us.”
Coincidentally or not, the Seahawks put their bad seasons – close to three decades worth – behind them with the arrival of Tatupu, who was also a second-round draft pick, taken 45th overall to Ryan’s 33rd. Informed of the many parallels between the two of them, Ryans replied: “You know, I hadn’t thought about that. But I’d like to go to the Super Bowl, too.”
While might be getting a little ahead of himself there, the Texans have to appreciate his way of thinking.
And they still do. OK, back to wine with my next blog. Gonna be talking about stuff I’ve tasted, fun folks I’ve met and a very cool French tasting event coming up Thursday, March 23, at the Alliance Française Houston in Montrose.
It’s time to start shopping for your sweetheart. You know it is, so don’t tarry any longer. And I’m here to help. The following wines checked all the boxes for me, although, being a cheapskate, several are on the expensive side, at least for my pensioner’s pocketbook. But, then again, how do we put a price on love?
Since I’ve got a bunch of wines for you today — bubbles plus a white, an orange and several reds, pictured above — time constraints prevent me from going into deep, super-geeky deal detail here about any one of them — I’m a very busy guy, OK? — but in most cases additional info can easily be found by clicking the listed links.
BUBBLES
Adami Bosco di Gica Prosecco Superiore
From the winemaker: “A straw yellow color. Creamy mousse and delicate, long-lasting bead. On the nose, it is rich, with excellent fruit, releasing scents of yellow apple and peach, with notes of wisteria and acacia blossom. Wonderful balance and elegance complement a pleasurably crispness. The palate holds delicious vein of acidity, displaying a crisp, savory mouthfeel. Generous, lingering flavors nicely mirror the nose and achieve perfect balance.”
From Vinous, which awarded a score of 91+: “Luminous straw-green in color. Honey, white flowers, crushed rocks and lemon oil all come alive in this nicely chiseled, creamy yet vibrant Prosecco. Showcases gorgeous balance and plenty of early appeal, but also offers plenty of richness and depth. This serious, luscious Prosecco, made from roughly 96 percent glera and four percent chardonnay, is my early candidate for Brut Prosecco of the year. The name of the wine derives from a very old forest located near the estate.”
From me: This refined and layered non-vintage sparkler is from the heart of Prosecco country, the DOCG of Valdobbiadene. You’d be hard-pressed to find better bubbles at this price point.
From the winemaker: “A warm and dry summer lead to a concentrated, yet vibrant 2018 sparkling wine vintage in the Willamette Valley. Knudsen Vineyard, protected in the deep volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills, brings supple depth and elegance, while Spirit Hill Vineyard, in the windy and rocky volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills, brings energy and minerality. Orchard fruits, citrus peel, and toasted brioche are framed around a creamy center and long, graceful finish.”
From the Wine Spectator, which awarded a score of 93: “Delicate and refreshing, with layered strawberry, blood orange and spicy yeast accents that gather richness and polish on the finish.”
From me: I’ve been a fan of Argyle since I first tasted with its longtime winemaker, Texas Aggie Roland Soles. Soles has long since moved on to his venture, but I’ve seen not a bit of drop-off in quality in the wines, this bubbles blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier included. A delightful, romantic sparkler.
From the winemaker: “A blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir vinified as red wine. Radiant color with graceful effervescence, a persistent mousse, and fine bubbles rising slowly in the glass. Subtle and fine aromas leading to an expressive red berry flavor with citrus zest. Creamy and smooth on the palate, evolving to strawberries notes and a raspberry finish. Light, balanced and precise.”
From Jeb Dunnuck, who awarded a score of 94: “The palate is rounded, with fruit up front and through the mid-palate, and it has a silky and fresh lift. There is a wonderful ease and drinkability to this wine, which delivers balance and finesse. Best after 2022.”
From me: I rang in the New Year with the 2008 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis Blanc de Blancs 2008 and I will be toasting my bride of soon-to-be-49 years on February 14 with this gem. Pink champagne doesn’t get any better, at any price point, in my opinion . . . which must count for something because you’re reading this, right? Cheers!
From the winemaker: “The nose shows a fragrant and fruit-forward with notes of blackcurrant, mulberry, and dark cherry aromas alongside more delicate hints of chocolate, spice, and roasted coffee bean all adding a supporting richness and interest. Complex dark berry fruits and rich chocolate on the palate work in harmony with a round creamy texture and soft supporting tannin profile. Refreshing mid palate acidity provides the important framework which cuts through the balanced sweetness and leads into a long and clean savory finish.”
From Wilfred Wong of wine.com, who gave a 92: “Exhibits aromas and flavors of raspberries, grape notes, dried leaves and spices. Enjoy it with barbeque baby back ribs in a slightly tart/sweet sauce.”
2020 Macrostie Nightwing Vineyards Chardonnay Petaluma Gap
From the winemaker: “This is the inaugural vintage from Nightwing Vineyard, named after the indigenous nocturnal birds that keep a watchful eye on the land. This bright and alluring Chardonnay showcases aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and zesty lime. On the palate, it is rich and round, with lovely underlying power and luxurious flavors of ripe mango, citrus, and a touch of French oak.”
From the Wine Enthusiast: which awarded 94 points: “Very ripe, almost sweet pear and peach flavors are bolstered by good fruit acidity in this well-balanced wine. Complex accents of toasted almond and butter are layered into the delicious fruits.”
From me: What they said. No gilding the lily needed.
From the winemaker: “The nose is complex, with an explosion of notes of white flowers, candied fruit and white pepper. On the palate, a very flattering aromatic freshness, with precise flavors and a beautiful balance to which the structure gives body and spirit. Sweet and fine, its texture envelops the palate. The tasting ends with a nice length in the mouth that prolongs the gustatory journey and sweet bitter touch that stimulates the taste buds.”
From the Wine Enthusiast, which awarded a score of 90: “Kumquat, donut peach and Valencia orange meet marigold on the intriguing nose of this wine. The juicy palate is loaded with Valencia orange, peach and Granny Smith apple. This wine is dry and lightly tannic on the long finish but thoroughly enjoyable.”
From me: Six white varietals go into this sexy, out-of-the-box blend from the best producer in France’s Languedoc, who inevitably had to try his hand making orange wine. In short, Bertrand succeeded.
From the winemaker: “Shows intense blackberry and cherry notes harmoniously exalted by a light spicy background. Smooth and velvety with a firm backbone. Perfect with red meat, ham, and mature cheeses.”
From the Reverse Wine Snob: “Begins with a pleasing aroma of cherry, licorice, a little spice and a bit of apple. Taking a sip reveals lots of dark berry fruit and spice in this well put together wine . . . . Smooth and easy to drink some nice spice notes lead into the dry, medium-long finish.”
From me: Given the price of bottles and shipping costs in our COVID-challenged times, I have no earthly idea how a wine this good can possibly be sold for such a low price. But bless the D’Aquino Italian Importing Company and Trader Joe’s for their partnership.
$5.99 on the shelf at Trader Joe’s
2011 Kelly Fleming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific effort in a very challenging year. Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. The 2011 stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.
From the Wine Advocate, which awarded a score of 92: “A terrific effort in a very challenging year. Winemaker Celia Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. It stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential.”
From me: The Advocate went on to say it should be fully mature by 2024. I’d say it’s at its prime right now. This is the best cab I’ve tasted recently and I’ve tasted some very, very good ones, another one of which follows.
2019 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena
From the winemaker: “Carol’s Vineyard, named for Jerry Lohr’s late wife Carol, lies in northern St. Helena along the Napa River and is comprised of 27 acres of cabernet sauvignon and 4.3 acres of petit verdot. The well-drained, gravelly, sandy loam soils and Bordeaux-like climate of the Napa Valley are ideally suited to producing richly textured, luxury-quality fruit.
From Wine & Spirits Magazine, which awarded a score of 93: “A lean and spicy 2019. Lasting scents of fruity mushrooms and black plum skin give the wine dimension, while the tannins feel polished and powerful in their warm earth tones. The ripeness is spot on, sustaining a dynamic energy in the flavors.”
From me: W&S thinks it’s going to need 10 years to fully share its charms and those folks may be right. But it’s drinking very, very nicely now and who knows if I’ve got 10 years left to be patient. Carpe diem!
From the winemaker: “Grown on the eastern-facing slopes of Mt. Veeder, this merlot hits all the right notes. Lush and rich, but vivaciously youthful, it’s a graceful enigma. Notes of dark cherries, cedar, toasted oak and a long finish highlight this beauty.”
From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 95 (as did Jeb Dunnuck): “Aromas of spices, such as cloves, dark berries and some herbs. Full-bodied and layered with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Juicy and flavorful.”
From me: Chris Carpenter, a Napa legend, aged the wine for 22 months in mostly new oak, but it’s hardly an oak bomb. The titans of Bordeaux’s Right Bank would be proud to call this 100-percent merlot their own, too.
Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. http://eventbrite.com
Cypress Sips Wine Brunch: Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. http://eventbright.com
Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. http://eventbright.com
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. http://eventbrite.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . DeMeco Ryans
I care about the Texans again because of this hire. Ryans, whom I met on his first day of training camp as a rookie in 2006, is a smart guy and a class act through and through, cut from the same cloth as his coach back then, Gary Kubiak. After a long drought, the Texans have finally made a decision that’s beyond reproach.
An example of great minds thinking alike here . . . Sandra shares the piece she wrote for Galveston Monthly about what to swirl and sip with your sweetie on Valentine’s Day.
And yet another example of great minds thinking alike. Jeff nixes the notion that wine can safely be paired with chocolate, and I could not agree more. Don’t. Do. It. Bad for the wine and it doesn’t help the chocolate. One defensible exception: Banyuls with very dark chocolate.
It’s cleaning-out-the-email-inbox day today. There’s a lot happening that you need to be aware of.
But, first, watch this space for news of at least one wine tasting to be hosted by the Alliance Française Houston (http://alliancehouston.org) in March. Having been recently chosen – sentenced? – president of the Alliance’s board of directors, it’s my sworn duty to get wine front and center again. Through his popular monthly tastings, the late Bear Dalton put our 100-year-old house at 427 Lovett Blvd. in the heart of Montrose at the epicenter of the local swirling and sipping scene, and I’m determined to honor his legacy by getting some buzz back into the building, both literally and figuratively.
A certified wine legend in these parts, Bear can’t be replaced, but we must carry on without him, so we’re certain to host a tasting, probably in conjunction with Douglas Skopp and his Dionysus Imports wines (http://dionysusimports.com) because Doug is a board member, sometime in March. Why? Because March 20 is International Francophonie Day (Journée internationale de la Francophonie), a longstanding celebration of France’s language and culture. And wine, obviously, is a huge part of said culture.
Again, details forthcoming soon.
New sippin’ spots
I’m happy to report that west Houston has a very cool new wine bar called VinSanto (http://vinsantowine.com) – it opened recently in Memorial Green, where Vine Wine Bar used to be – and Fort Bend County will soon welcome Wine Vibes (http://winevibesmicrowinery.com), a “micro-winery”/bistro in Missouri City.
Riccardo Guerrieri is the certified sommelier running the show at VinSanto, with considerable help from his partner, Giorgio Caflisch, and sommelier Stephanie Kukutschka. Guerrieri is no stranger to the scene here, having established his bona fides during his tenure at Vinology, and he’s bringing the same fun but sophisticated vibe to VinSanto, a wine bar, bistro and retail shop all in the same attractive package. Riccardo’s list isn’t the same ‘ol same ‘ol. “Hidden gem, off-the-beaten path” wines from Italy, France and Spain are front and center.
But he’s got a lovely, naturally made pet nat from Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast that’s well worth trying.
Caflisch, in turn, is a certified Italian Wine Scholar who teaches at the Texas Wine School, while Kukutschka was previously at Houston Wine Merchant.
VinSanto’s Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight, and Sunday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Meanwhile, Wine Vibes, part of the new development Sienna Crossing, will offer a similar mix of wining, dining and retail shopping plus the opportunity to make wine and even create one’s own labels when its doors open Feb. 7.
Chef Phillip Hare, the creative force behind Houston’s Red Cat Jazz Café, will be the general manager. Wine Vibes vision? According to the email I received: “To educate guests through an immersive experience by breaking through barriers of color and gender by pairing wine with inclusivity, and introducing the industry in an approachable, fun, and vibrant way.” Well, OK.
I’ll get my first look at VinSanto this Wednesday and have plans to visit Wine Vibes in early February.
Gulf Coast wine? You bet!
The 31st annual Gulf Coast Winegrowers Watson Field Day, featuring viticulture and winemaking presentations, research-related wine tastings, commercial exhibits and networking for both experienced and prospective grape growers and wine makers, takes place from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Feb. 3, at the Cat Spring Agriculture Society Hall in Cat Spring. It’s again presented in partnership with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension and Capital Farm Credit.
Our neck of the woods isn’t the easiest place to be a winegrower, but lots of folks have figured it out and will be sharing their hard-earned knowledge. Registration at the door opens at 7:30am and the price is $50 for GCWA members, $60 for non-members and $25 with Student ID. A lunch sponsored by Sensor Insight and a networking social are included. Non-members may join GCWA at registration. Visit the Gulf Coast Winegrowers Association on Facebook for additional information.
Wining in the Hill Country
Forty-plus wineries will be participating in a nearly month-long, free-form celebration of all things grape in Texas’ most scenic AVA. From January 30 to February 24, one can visit up to four wineries per day, receiving complimentary tastings and 15-percent discounts on purchases of up to three bottles for only $100 per couple or $65 per person.
The revenue from ticket sales go to the Texas Hill Country Wineries Association (http://texaswinetrail.com), which works to encourage the growth and development of the of the wine industry in its backyard, and also to the Texas Hill Country Wineries scholarship program that supports local students pursuing careers in the wine industry.
Aperitive Italiano — Amore Italian Style: 7-8 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at The Italian Cultural and Community Center (iccchouston.com). Eventbrite.com.
Il Poggione Dinner with winemaker/export manager Alessandro Bindocci: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31. 713 664-7581 or romahouston.com
End of Dry January Blind Wine Tasting: 6 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at We Olive & Wine Bar (weolive.com). sercawines.com. $35. Eventbrite.com
Cruise through Chianti with Jeremy Parzen: 7 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 2: Vinology. $65. http://vinologyhouston.com
Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. Eventbrite.com
Cypress Sips Wine Brunch: Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. Eventbrite.com
Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. Eventbrite.com
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. Eventbrite.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
Sippin’ with Sporty
2019 William Chris Vineyards Fovel Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Texas Hill Country
The back label promises “Real. Texas. Wine.” But it’s missing the word “good” between “Real” and “Texas.” This is a superb effort from the boys in Hye, one of the best cabernets from anywhere that I’ve tasted in a long while. The Fovel Vineyard is located a couple miles northeast of Fredericksburg. $60 at http://shopwilliamwineschris.com (I might add that the 2020 William Chris Enchante, a Bordeaux-style blend, is also well-worth trying, too.)
2019 Colene Clemens Vineyards Margo Pinot Noir
Winemaker Stephen Goff, who has been with the winery since its founding in 2008 by Joe and Vickie Stark, uses only estate fruit grown in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains AVA. It’s a very Burgundian pinot noir, which should be taken as a compliment. The Wine Spectator awarded a score of 94. A wonderful new find for me! Colene, fyi, is Vicki’s mother and Margo is is Colene’s greaet granddaughter. $42 at http://coleneclemens.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Feigen
I don’t know how my longtime former Chronicle sports department colleague keeps his sanity covering the current-generation Rockets. I really don’t. The NBA beat is the hardest of them all even when a season is going swimmingly, and the baby Rockets are, of course, drowning. But Jonathan, who’s not that much younger than I am and I’m already four years retired, still brings passion and intelligence to his every story, most of which offer at least a tiny measure of optimism. Bravo and bon courage, my friend!
Pouring one out for . . . Stephen Silas
At this stage of his career, which may not last much longer, he’s the losing-est coach in NBA history. Talk about being in the wrong place at the wrong time. And, worse, he’s had to also process his father Paul’s death during this most dreadful of Rockets season (again). I don’t know the young man, but he seems to be a smart, decent fellow who took the wrong job at the wrong time.
My podcast partner is crime will be going deep into Chianti, covering every angle of what’s Italy’s most evocative — and misunderstood — wine. Parzen will host a seminar Thursday evening, Feb. 2, with six wines, including a vin santo, to be tasted and explored in detail. Go to his web site to register.
The Texas Wineslinger touts the aforementioned Watson Field Day and suggests we try the Duchman Salt Lick Vineyard the next time you have a pizza. Speaking of which, Russ is has become a master pizza maker using his new Ooni, the creme de la creme of home-use pizza ovens. Note that he’s also teaching his Specialist of Texas Wine Level 1 at AOC in February. You can register at his site.
Back in the day, most Bordeaux wines weren’t all that expensive, which was a good thing because I loved the wines of Bordeaux and I wasn’t making all that much money. But, in 1985, a bottle of 1982 Margaux, a First Growth 100-point Robert Parker tout, could be had at Spec’s for $60. I was still paying under $40 for lesser Classed Growth futures through the memorable 2000 vintage.
Once Bordeaux prices went crazy, though, I wandered off to other regions, such as the Southern Rhone Valley, looking for better value. I probably didn’t buy 10 bottles of Bordeaux over the first two decades of the 21st century. I wasn’t alone, either. Arguably, no region had become more passé because, by and large, quality hadn’t kept up with the exponentially rising costs.
However, a Frenchman turned Houstonian has made it his mission to change that. Jean-François Bonneté, who moved here in 2011 and, with his wife Natalie, eventually launched an import business called BCI, then became vintners themselves. Their lineup of Liberation of Paris wines — the name pays tribute to a memorable chapter in his family’s history, which we’ll get to in a moment — has been available in Houston for several years and offers excellent value, with prices ranging from just under $12 to just over $20. But Bonneté has recently gone a step further in the bargain department with a new pink, a red and a white that carry the family name on the label and sell for $9.95, cash price, at Spec’s.
Impossible, you say? Nope. And, yep, they’re damned satisfying. The full-flavored non-vintage designated red, made from biodynamically-farmed cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in and around the Bordeaux AOC (that’s why it’s a Vin de France) has in fact become a go-to pour at Chez Robertson, pairing splendidly as it does with red sauce pasta dishes, pizza, burgers and cheese/charcuterie platters. It’s not a wine that requires a lot of deep thinking or geeky analysis. It may or may not age all that well, but who cares? I’m not planning to lay any down.
As for the Liberation of Paris story, the label became Bonneté’s way of paying tribute to an American GI who had befriended his father as a young boy not long after the D-Day landing, giving him comfort — and some chewing gum — on the side of the road as the soldier and his fellow troops were making their way to Paris. Joel Bonneté, now in his 80s, has loved the U.S. since that chance encounter and had always encouraged Jean-François to embrace this country. He has, and Houston’s budget-conscious wine-lovers are the better for it. You’ll find the Bonneté wines in some 40 Spec’s stores today.
Spoke too soon
In my last missive in this space, I reported that the South of France wine tour I’m co-leading with Pablo Valqui in late May/early June was sold out. Well, it’s not. We still have two spots left, it seems. Go to http://gourmettours.biz for all the details tasting our way through Provence, the Southern Rhone Valley and the Languedoc . We’re going to have a spectacularly good time, I promise!
Sippin’ with Sporty
2020 Rizzi Dolcetto d’Alba
This is one of the best dolcettos I’ve come across in a good while, and it’s widely available at Spec’s stores around town. Rizzi’s estate fruit grows in Treiso near Barbaresco, an area well-suited for the varietal despite nebbiolo’s being the big dog in the neighborhood. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures for eight days with malolactic fermentation following for a month, then aging in tanks for six months. A ruby-purple in color, it’s both floral and spicy with surprising nuance. $23.99 at Spec’s
Kings of Prohibition Shiraz
This bold and tasty non-vintage Australian shiraz has much in common with the Bonneté cab, offering satisfaction way above its price point and pairing with all the same comfort foods, from burgers to pizza to spicy pastas. It’s to be enjoyed, not analyzed. $12.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Goldeneye Ten Degrees Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Goldeneye in Anderson Valley in 1996, thinking they’d secured some of the best pinot noir terroir in the world. They were right. The Ten Degrees is a blend from the very best lots of the Confluence, Gowan Creek and The Narrows Vineyards. Following a nearly perfect growing season and harvest, fermentation took place using a mixture of whole cluster destemmed fruit with both native and inoculated ferments, all punched down twice daily in small three-ton open top tanks for an average of 14 days. Aging in French oak lasted 16 months. $130 at http://goldeneyewinery.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Damar Hamilin
And here’s hoping he’ll play football again. Should he? That’s another question. But we learned from his frightening on-field cardiac arrest what a fine young man Damar is, and he deserves the chance to resume chasing his dreams. I’ll be pulling hard for the Bills to win the Super Bowl for him. That would be a very cool story.
Pouring one out for . . . Lovie Smith
Look, Lovie did a lousy job of coaching this season, even if he’s not a lousy coach. He should have gotten fired. Hell, he should have wanted to get fired. But Smith’s departure won’t fix anything that’s wrong with the terminally screwed-up Texans, arguably top to bottom North America’s worst sports franchise.
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): On Martin Luther King day, Jan. 23, my podcast partner in crime and his wife Tracie will be participating in a protest against the “Neo-Confederate” Memorial in Orange, where Tracie grew up and much of her family still lives. He writes: “We will be there from 1-3 p.m. Please join us to show solidarity for the Black community.” If you have questions, contact him at jparzen@gmail.com Nothing else to say but . . . Bravo, Parzens!
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): The Texas Wineslinger reviews his most popular blogs of 2022.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff writes about the best wines he has tasted of late that weren’t sent to him as free samples. Which is to say, by and large he actually PAID for them. Novel concept . . . (smiley face emoji here).
New Year’s Eve has never been a particularly important holiday for me because I spent far too many of them on the road, alone in a Marriott hotel room somewhere, waiting for the next-day’s “big” game. But those days are long over, so I suppose it’s time to re-assess, especially since I’m four months into my seventh decade on this troubled orb of ours. I can say this for certain: Never have I more gratefully metaphorically turned a page than I did Saturday night.
Happy New Year!
Last January 1, I awoke to the news that I was negative for COVID-19, terrific news because I was 72 hours from undergoing a much-needed hip replacement. But, by nightfall, I had received another test result — from the hospital where the surgery would take place — informing me that, nope, I was positive and my operation would have to be pushed back a month. A gut punch, to say the least, given the pain I was in. It’s a good thing I’ve always been allergic to firearms.
What helped hugely, though was the arrival of a new four-legged child on Jan. 6. Little Coco, an exuberant six-month-old Pomeranian puppy, provided great comfort during that difficult patch. Ultimately the surgery would take place on January 20 and it couldn’t have gone more swimmingly, thanks to the skills of Dr. Ken Mathis, a rock star in his own right. After four days, I’d ditched the walker and within three weeks I was back on the bike, pain-free and pedaling like a crazy person. Debbie and I headed off to France on schedule, then spent an absolutely splendid spring there, enjoying our gorgeous little off-the-beaten-path Alpine valley with friends, new and old. Our best trip ever, we declared it.
It was certainly Coco’s, who proved to be a perfect traveler in her maiden voyage as a frequent flyer.
But returning to Houston in sweltering mid-June brought new adventures — and sweeping changes. A wee-hours trip on the staircase leading from our bedroom down to the kitchen could have been catastrophic had I landed on the new right hip, but instead I only made my already messed-up left knee exponentially worse. A series of PRP injections (that’s platelet-rich-plasma, fyi) got me mobile again, but a loud message had been clearly delivered. I was done with stairs. And Debbie was done with bagging fallen magnolia leaves in 100-plus-degree heat.
Our Montrose home, hard by Buffalo Bayou Park and special in every way imaginable, went on the market. It sold quickly — for well above the asking price — and we became renters for the first time in 47 years. But whereas our original apartment on Hermann Drive, long since torn down, had maybe 500 square feet and cost $135 a month, our new one is 18 floors above Kirby Drive with a panorama that includes downtown, the Medical Center and Greenway Plaza. Whole Foods is across the street. Yes, it’s priced accordingly.
Because Debbie and met living in Moody Towers, brand new in the fall of 1970 on the University of Houston campus, we weren’t strangers to high-rise living, so this move feels like closing a circle. Also, I now wake up to a view of the Astrodome, which is what brought me to H-town in the first place.
We took possession of the apartment and began moving stuff in on Sept. 25, with Debbie leaving for France the next day. That evening, after dining with a friend, we headed back to the house in separate cars. Debbie’s made it. Mine didn’t. At the intersection of Allen Parkway and Montrose, two blocks from home, a young man ran a red light at 30 m.p.h. and nearly T-boned me. Had he, I would likely have been killed. A Z4 is no match for an Expedition. Fortuitously, only the Beemer, barely 11 months old, was beyond repair. I escaped with my hip intact — again — and nothing worse than a minor blackeye caused by the airbag.
Still shaken, I got Debbie to the airport the next day in her car . . . then promptly ran out of gas on the way home. Nonetheless, the rest of the move went smoothly and I followed her to the Alps a week later. We had another fabulous stay and even 40 hours spent trapped in travel hell on the return didn’t dim our enthusiasm for our new high-in-the-sky life. Further, I had a cool new ride waiting for me when I got back. I can’t say enough good things about the folks at Liberty Mutual. They’re as fair as their commercials are funny.
Despite the delays, I arrived just in time to watch the Astros’ close out the Phillies in the World Series. A successful fundraiser I helped orchestrate for Houston’s Alliance Française followed in early December and, just a few days ago, the wine-tasting tour through the South of France I’m co-hosting with my new best friend, Pablo Valqui, sold out.
One final challenge was losing my “sportwineguy” domaine — long story, which began with us getting hit with some pretty serious credit card fraud — but I was able to lock up “thesportywineguy” as a replacement. So, by any measure, 2022 ended way better than it began.
Now here we are, starting fresh in 2023, optimistic that the next 12 months — and hopefully many more months after that — will be free of health issues and heartache. At our age I know that’s asking a lot, but fingers and toes are crossed because there are still many wines to sample, and plenty of topics to both blog and podcast about, the latter with my like-minded buddy Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com). I intend to keep the petal to the proverbial metal because, as my favorite philosopher, Charles Barkley, was always wont to say, “Life is short and death is long.”
My celebratory bottle of bubbles for ringing in the New Year? See below. To again quote Sir Charles, “Hey, somebody’s gotta be me.”
Cheers!
Sippin’ with Sporty
I know, this is supposed to be a wine blog. Sorry for the digression above. Here we go . . .
2021 J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay
Although the wine, made from chardonnay grown in Arroyo Seco, tastes classically Californian, it was made using traditional Burgundy methods such as malolactic fermentation and a weekly stirring of the lees, used, explains winemaker Kristen Barnhisel, “to complement the aromatics, while also adding a creamy palate texture and long finish.” Aging lasted in barrell, sur lie, for eight months, 24 percent new. $25 at http://jlohr.com
2021 Hampton Water Languedoc Rose
Wine.com’s Wilfred Wong calls this collaboration between the Languedoc’s Gerard Bertrand and rocker Jon Bon Jovie’s one, Jessie Bongiove “one of the world’s most consistent pink wines. (Dad got to know Bertrand performing at his summer jazz festival near the Narbonne shore.) It’s floral, fruity and minerally all at once and delicious year around. Wong scored the wine a 91. It earns 100 points for value, especially for the $17.99 sale price at Kroger right now.
2019 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
I finished the year with yet another reference-standard California cabernet, this blockbuster from the Chappellet family, which turned Napa Valley’s Pritchard Hill into one of the world’s most revered and renowned wine locales, certainly for cab-centric blends, since the winery’s founding in 1967. Five national critics scored the Chappellet’s flagship 93 or higher with offering more eloquent praise than James Suckling, who described it as being “voluptuously full bodied, with a lavish structure and supple tannins framing the ripe dark berry and blackcurrant flavors.” $289.95 at http://wineexpress.com
Like Earl Campbell, J. J. became a bit of a shooting star in our midst, delivering only a few great seasons before injuries took their toll. But so great were they that, like Earl, he’s a certain first-ballot Hall-of-Famer as one of only two men to be named Defensive Player of the Year three times. (Lawrence Taylor was the other.) Also, like the Tyler Rose, he never got that championship. No matter. He was a championship human being, and as beloved as any athlete who ever stepped between the lines on H-town’s behalf. Surely, Cal McNair will do the right thing and make sure J.J. retires as a Texan.
Pouring one out for . . . Péle
In the 20th century, there were two truly transcendent, force-of-nature athletes, Muhammad Ali and Edson Arantes do Nascimento. The globe was indeed their stage, sans hyperbole. My favorite Péle story: When he and his Santos team traveled to Nigeria in 1967, a 48-hour cease-fire in a savage civil war then raging in the country was declared in order to allow both sides to watch him play. He died Dec. 29 at the age of 82.
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): My podcast partner in crime looks back on a most memorable year for his family, which celebrates its first Christmas in their new Westbury home.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): Russ chooses his favorite Texas wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The 2019 Bending Branch Malbec ranked No. 1.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff picks his 10 favorite sparkling wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brute was his bubbles bottle of the year.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat recounts her adventures in Healdsburg, her travel destination for this holiday season.
