My focus today is on big-boy cabs — plus an all-the-boxes-checked merlot and two kick-ass malbecs — that I’ve tasted recently. I know, that sounds insane, given how poorly said wines tend to pair with our relentlessly oppressive heat. But each remains currently available on line, which might not be the case when you feel like drinking them in the dead of winter. In other words, don’t tarry.

Six of wines showcase some of the best mountain-fruit vineyards on both sides of Napa Valley and another is made from grapes grown high above Paso Robles. The provenance of two of the cabs and one of the malbecs is Mount Veeder.

2019 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “a Deep ruby color with aromas of black plum, blackberry, fig and ripe cherry, framed by toasted oak and caramel. A hint of dried herb and floral notes. The concentrated fruit flavors and integrated tannins introduce a rich, full-body structure. Sweet fruit is balanced with acidity and savory notes of leather and wet stone, ending with a lengthy finish of dark berry, baking spice, and mocha.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “Ripe and fresh, with sassafras, sweet bay leaf and savory details that lead into a juicy, compact core of cassis and dark plum compote flavors. The modestly toasty finish lets the fruit and savory sides play out, while acidity and tannins underscore everything.”

From me: The three ranches on the Mayacamas slopes where the grapes grow are at elevations of 1,000 to 1,600 feet. When Mount Veeder came on line in 1970 it was the first winery in the area and the first California winery to plant all five of the primary Bordeaux varietals. This vintage includes four, missing only malbec.

$55 at http://mtveeder.com

2019 Peak Edcora Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “Showcasing the concentration and complexity of Edcora Vineyard, this wine offers remarkable depth and richness, with powerful aromas of wild berry, cassis, mountain sage, roasted coffee, graphite, smoke and sweet oak. On the beautifully structured palate, rich tannins and and a natural underlying density provide a sense of balance and cohesiveness to luxurious layers of dark berries and wild herbs, with notions of oak spice and adding sweetness and freshness to the dark fruit and volcanic minerality.”

From the International Wine Report, which scored it a 94: ” The wine begins with an inviting aromatic profile of ripe cherries, blackberries and red plums, which are laced with fresh-tilled soil, dried exotic spices, dried florals, herbs and suggestions of cigar box that all emerge from the glass. On the palate this is full-bodied, structured and well-balanced. It continues to impress with its wonderful concentration as well as a gorgeous combination of ripe red/dark fruits, herbs and earthy nuances that extend through the long polished finish. This is impressive in its youth, but should go on to evolve beautifully in the cellar over the course of the next decade.”

From me: Peak’s 78-acre Edcora Vineyard, situated well above the fog line on the eastern side of the valley, abuts the famed Stagecoach Vineyard and also features shallow, iron-rich volcanic soil atop a hard layer of volcanic andesite. The small, thick-skinned grapes are classic mountain fruit.

$175 at http://acumenwine.com

2018 Duckhorn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “On the nose, this stunning wine offers a bevy of mountain-fruit aromas including sweet baking spices, black raspberry, currant, and blackberry, with hints of anise, clove, and fresh mint adding nuance and complexity. On the palate it is robust and generous, echoing the aromas in waves of ripe dark berries and spice, with firm tannins and dusty minerality carrying the flavors to a remarkably long, lush finish.” 

From James Suckling, who scored it a 95: “So complex and beautiful now with blackcurrants, olives, bark, and oyster shells. Full to medium body. Resolved, velvety and juicy tannins. Then turns firm and beautiful. Drinkable now but will age beautifully.”

From me: Howell Mountain’s vineyards have long been my reference standard, offering the perfect terroir for growing cab and merlot. Wines made there as early as the late 1890s, when more than 600 acres were already under vine, earned a global reputation for excellence before Prohibition temporarily killed the party.

$109.99 at http://wine.com

2018 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

From the winemaker: “Beck Vineyard, in the Creston District of Paso Robles, is a unique, high elevation site that sits at 1,700 feet above the early morning fog line. Its calcareous soils and cooling afternoon winds are perfect for growing cabernet sauvignon. The Cabernet from this vineyard ripens early with excellent color, purity of fruit and phenolic maturity. Incorporation of the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire brings density, color, and savory elements, while a small amount of Malbec contributes bright fruit notes to the finish. The hand-harvested grapes were destemmed and berry-sorted at the winery followed by a 12 percent saignée which brought concentration to the must prior to fermentation. A short, seven-day maceration revealed luxurious color potential with ideal tannin extraction before pressing.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 96: “Toasty aromas of charred pecan, cocoa nib and espresso give a savory edge to the blackberry-paste base of this luxury-­level bottling. Smoothed-out tannins carry hearty flavors of coffee, cocoa and coconut on the palate, where dark fruit flavors carry deep into the finish.”

From me: Aged 20 months in new French oak, the wine was released on January 1 in honor of founder Jerry Lohr’s 85th birthday.

$109.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Kelly Fleming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

From the winemaker: “When poured, black cherry, wild raspberry, cedar and lavender aromas begin to emerge. With a bit of time in the glass, these aromas transform into cassis, plum and black licorice notes. The elegantly layered palate gives first impressions of black currant, kirsch, crushed river rock and cocoa dust. It offers finely integrated tannins and balanced acidity.

From me: It’s 100 percent cab, all of which grew in Fleming’s Estate vineyard near Calistoga. Aging also lasted 20 months with 85 percent of the juice in new French oak.

$185 at http://kellyflemingwines.com

2020 Priest Ranch Snake Oil Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “It has a beautiful deep and rich ruby color. On the nose, there are pleasant complex aromas of earth and spice with notes of warm chocolate mocha. Hints of blueberry, black cherries, and berry cobbler immediately scream from the glass. This wine has muscular tannins that grip at the beginning and linger to a beautiful silky long finish. Although graceful now, you can cellar for 10 to 15 years.”

From me: The historic Priest Ranch, originally settled by Joshua James Priest in 1849, is now part of the Somerston Estate, which covers 1,615 acres with 222 of them under vine above Soda Valley. Aging of this cab lasted 24 months in oak, 75 percent of it new French barrels.

$110 at http://priestrachwines.com

2019 Brandlin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

From the winemaker: “The wine is fruit forward with blackberry, and boysenberry notes intertwined with a bouquet of allspice, cardamom and black tea. On the finish, savory hints of cassis, tobacco and olive surf gracefully on the palate and are rounded out by an inviting bed of rich but supple tannins.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 94: “Very expressive, with zesty anise and apple wood mixed with sassafras and sweet bay leaf flavors, all backed by a dense, polished core of blackberry and açaí berry fruit. Features a hint of tar that adds spine and textural contrast to the finish. Big all around, but everything is well-proportioned.”

From me: The Brandlin family, having emigrated to California from Switzerland in the 1870s, settled on the steep, rocky slopes of Mount Veeder and felt right at home there. Five decades later, in 1926, Henry Brandlin planted his first vines . . . just in time for Prohibition. Things turned out fine, though. Note the provenance of the next wine. Steve Rogstad is on a roll.

$110 from http://brandlinestate.com

Malbec

2019 Brandlin Estate Malbec Mount Veeder

From the winemaker: “From a south-facing slope in the middle of our Brandlin Estate, our 2019 Brandlin Estate Malbec has a lovely bouquet of violets and sandalwood that give way to currant and boysenberry fruit with a hint of cocoa, camphor and black tea. The wine feels expansive, silky smooth and velvety on the finish, belying its mountain origins.”

From me: This beautifully expressive wine, which includes all of the Bordeaux varietals in the blend except merlot, spent 22 months in French oak, half of it new.

$75 at http://brandlinestate.com

2018 Corazon del Sol Gran Riserva

From the winemaker: “A beautiful expression of our finest Malbec barrels from a cooler vintage in Los Chacayes. Small berries and low yields resulted in balanced wines with vibrant acidity. Only a few barrels were hand-selected from our seven acres of estate fruit in pursuit of producing the highest quality malbec in the world.”

From Vinous, which scored it a 93: “Purple in the glass with a garnet sheen. The nose presents notes of fresh plum, hints of violet and aromas from the aging process such as cigar box, and hints of cherry, jam and thyme. It’s a nimble, juicy wine with a refined texture and finely grained tannins with compact freshness. The finish lingers at length.”

From me: Houston cardiologist Madaiah Revana initially made his mark with Revana Family Vineyard in Napa Valley and Alexana Vineyards and Winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, but a visit to the high Uco Valley on the Eastern side of the Andes in 2008 convinced him he needed to have a footprint in Argentina’s Mendoza neighborhood, too. Revana scored a major coup in securing the services of the famed Santiago Achaval as consulting winemaker.

$90 at http://corazondelsol.com

Merlot

2019 La Jota Vineyards Howell Mountain

From the winemaker: “The 2019 vintage unequivocally contributes to the rich story of Merlot grown in the volcanic soils of Howell Mtn. Rich and dense, the wine sings with flavors of plum, raspberry and graphite. Beautiful at this youthful stage, this Merlot will surely age gracefully over the next decade or two.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 95: “Lots of black olives with some conifer and mushrooms. Raspberries, too. Full-bodied with soft and round tannins. Really savory and juicy.”

From me: Chris Carpenter, who has overseen the La Jota cellar since 2005, used petit verdot and tannat to round out this intensely flavored, multi-layered merlot that more than lives up to this storied winery’s history. Winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain in 1888 and, a decade later, Frederick Hess established the La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

$109.99 at http://wine.com

Casey Barber’s back story as it relates to wine makes little sense . . . until you have a sit-down conversation with her. Then it’s easy to grasp how she became one of the world’s least likely vintners, although perhaps a more appropos description of her seems to be “entrepreneur.”

But suggest that to her and she laughs out loud.

“Me? I’d never thought of myself as any kind of business person,” Barber insists. “That’s not me.”

Uh, we beg to differ. Barber doesn’t actually make Rose Gold, her Côtes-de-Provence rosé that has become one of Texas’ most popular summer sippers over the past five years and now has a foothold in 38 states with, by her count, 850 total store shelf placements in 38 states after recent big-deal sales to Targets and Total Wine outlets. The Omni Hotels made it their house rosé pour nationally last summer. Chef Charles Clark, who has become a good buddy, struggles to keep it in stock at his Brasserie 19 resto on West Gray.

Barber’s sales skills are impressive, especially considering that marketing is another self-taught, by- the-seat-of-her-blue-jeans skill set. Now 45, she studied nursing at the University of Texas-Tyler and assumed, at least early on, that her life’s work would revolve around health care.     

Growing up country in Palestine, Texas, she had never tasted pink wine save for her mom’s white zinfandel until she went on her honeymoon to Provence in her mid-twenties.  Subsequently, their marriage became a whirlwind of food- and wine-centric adventures. She confesses that they stalked Michelin-starred chefs at every turn, from Manhattan to Europe’s foody meccas.  

Well, at least until in her early 30s when she gave birth to three beautiful children over a span of four years. Sadly, not long thereafter she and her husband split up. But from those lemons poured forth gallons of lemonade, pardon the mixed beverage metaphor.

“I’ve said this a thousand times,” Barber admitted. “My marriage didn’t last, but my love of rosé did.”

It was as a twentysomething newlywed on her honeymoon, not so far from where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie also thought they’d found their personal paradise with the purchase of Miraval, that she first tasted Provençal rosé at a café on the outskirts of Cannes. It was love at first sip – and sight. (Fortunately, Barber and her ex didn’t go down “Brangelina’s” nasty divorce path. Today they live “down the street from each other” in a leafy Dallas neighborhood and are coping with co-parenting duties just fine.)

“I can still picture it in my mind today, these tanned and beautiful French people, all of them drinking this wonderful pink wine morning, noon and night,” Barber recalled, wistfully. “I was immediately enthralled. Once you’ve been bitten by the food and wine bug, there’s no going back. It wasn’t a world I’d known nothing about before then, but Pandora’s box had opened.”

Still, it’s a giant leap from sipping somebody’s else vino as a stay-at-home single mother of three to hitting the streets and convincing prominent restaurants and retailers to listen you, Ms. Nobody, as you try to explain to them why they must carry your pink wine, a pink wine they’ve never heard of.

Being the first to admit she didn’t know what she didn’t know, however, Barber plowed bravely forth nonetheless, first finding a boutique production venue in St. Tropez to partner with – “I can only imagine what they were saying behind my back in French when I first came steamrolling in with my big ideas,” she said – and then bravely schlepping a Yeti full of wine from one resto to the next across Dallas, her proverbial hat in hand.

At least many of the sommeliers/managers she visited already knew her as a customer. Barber’s engaging personality and gorgeous countenance aren’t easily forgotten. As the cliche goes, she could have sold ice to Eskimos. But COVID-19 forced her to focus more on retail sales and, as the stats above would indicate, she keeps gaining more and more traction.    

A 50-50 blend of grenache and cinsault, Rose Gold is both wonderfully evocative of sunny Provence and offers excellent value (under $18 at Spec’s/Richard’s cash price). The clean, elegant, raised-letter label – her design, of course – turns heads. So does the name, which evolved from her love for rose-hued gold jewelry.

“It’s the only kind I wear,” she said.  “I knew somebody in the wine business and started batting around my naming idea with him. He gave me a 30-minute spiel about names and labels, but I told him I already had one. ‘What?’ he asked. ‘Rose Gold, I told him.’ He thought about it for a moment, then said, “Hey, that’s good, really good.”

Production of Rose Gold has doubled every year since the first vintage – 2017 – and has now reached 13,000 cases, with presumably greater quantities coming in the future, to keep up with demand. Fortunately, the Côtes-de-Provence has a bountiful supply of grapes. Those that go into Rose Gold come from vines around Cuers in the Var some 10 miles inland from Toulon with production at Maitres Vignerons Saint-Tropez.

Her winemaker? Florian Lacroux, the boss vintner at Saint-Roch-les-Vignes, and the man who brought Fleur de Mer to market for E. J. Gallo.

Barber, you see, didn’t try to re-invent the wheel. Rather, she simply reinvented herself. Now, if she could only clone herself, too. Barber remains a one-woman band.

“I could use 20 of me,” she said, laughing.  

The hard work notwithstanding, the rewards speak for themselves. A huge ancillary benefit of being the woman behind Rose Gold is how many new friends she has made schlepping her wine. Clark for one, as previously mentioned. And she never doesn’t have a glass or two with Ruggles Black proprietor Neera Parador, another loyal supporter, when she’s in Houston (That’s Casey pictured above at the Ruggles Black bar) .

“You meet unbelievably cool people wherever you go – restaurant owners, chefs, bar managers, sommeliers. Barber said. “I’ve added hundreds of contacts in my phone. Some of my nearest and dearest friends today are because of Rose Gold. They tell me, ‘You’re great and your juice is good.’ Hey, that’s where the rubber meets the road.”

But nothing feels more satisfying, or makes her prouder, than when the kids come home wide-eyed from the grocery store and say, breathlessly, “Mom, guess what? They had a big display of your wine.’ There’s  another level of emotion involved when your children can see and appreciate what you’re doing.”

Barber flies a lot, to say the least. Because, she says, “I always get cold” (and it’s also good marketing) on planes, Barber’s travel top of choice is a Rose Gold sweatshirt. Recently, while “zoning out” on the tarmac to take off from somewhere – “I think it was New Orleans,” she said. “We sell a bunch there.” – a woman lugging a carry-on down the aisle startled her by stopping and saying, “Hey, that’s my favorite wine!”

Flashing a Texas-sized smile, Barber replied, “Mine, too.”           

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine

Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40 http://eventbrite.com

Pinor Noir Tasting: 5:30-7:30 p.m., Tuesday, Aug. 15, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com

Free Tasting: 6:30 p.m., Tuesday, Aug. 15, at Roma. 713 664-7581

Stella’s Wine Games: 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp

Cheers for Charity Benefiting Second Chances: 4-7 p.m. Saturday at Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Center. $75-$125 http://eventbrite.com

JMP Wine Night Featuring Hope Family Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 24. $75 http://eventbrite.com

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Man, what a trip it was to roll up to my friend’s new bar on the Sunset Strip in LA . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Texas Native Grapes: Know Them, Grow Them… Cherish Their Worldwide Legacy – Part 1 (click here), we reviewed what are native grapevines, how they can benefit wildlife with cover and sustenance and humans providing grapes, jellies and jams, and wine. We also discussed how to identify some of the more common Texas native grape varieties in the wild. Now, we are moving on to the roles of Texas native grapevines in history up to modern day, and finishing with how to grow them . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “This morning, my wife and younger son, Sebastian, left me and my older son, Nathan, and took the TGV from Lyon up to Charles de Gaulle airport outside of Paris. Sebastian will be starting school this week in Houston and they therefore needed to cut their trip a little bit short. Nathan and I are soldiering on, as it were, and we are currently on a Frecciarossa train headed to Milan and then on to Lake Como. We will eventually make our way back to Lyon, where Nathan will be starting his semester abroad in about eight days.”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s another “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”

And this time we’re off to my favorite corner of Italy — the Piemonte — but with a few far-afield adventures, too.

We start in Turin and we finish in Milan. In between, we’ll be making an overnight excursion over a gorgeous high Alpine pass back into my neck of the French woods, the Ubaye Valley, before hunkering down in the environs of Alba for four days of winery visits and evenings spent enjoying exceptionally fine-dining. The Langhe, the Roero, Monferrato and the new Nizza DOCG will be our playground. In route to Milan, we’ll taste bubbles in Franciacorta and spend a night on Lake Como.

Until COVID shut down travel, I had made a pilgrimage to the Piemonte at least once a year from 1997 through 2019, then again in 2021 and 2022. I’ll have visited three more times before we begin our nine days in culinary/oenological heaven. As for Turin, I spent almost three weeks there covering the 2006 Winter Olympics. Believe me, there is no finer place on this planet to enjoy cutting-edge cuisine paired with Italy’s greatest wines and gorgeous scenery.

We’ll gather in Turin on Wednesday, May 22, and say our fond farewells in Milan on Saturday night, June 1. Lots of tweaking and fine-tuning remains, but, just to provide a sampling of where we’re going and who we’ll be seeing, a list of links for places that are certain to be on our itinerary are listed below.

It’s $7,750 per person — all inclusive once you’re on the ground, and only four of our maximum 10 spots remain. Contact Pablo Valqui (pablo@gourmettours.biz) to secure your reservation.

Hotels

http://villatiboldi.com (Shown above; It will be our base for four nights in the Alba area)

http://villamorelia.com (For our night in the Ubaye Valley, with a chef-prepared dinner at my home)

Wineries

http://ceretto.com (shown above)

http://visit.oddero.it

http://malvira.com (adjacent to Villa Tiboldi)

http://marchesidigresy

http://marchesibarolo.com

http://domenicoclerico.com

http://lucamarengo.it

Restaurants

http://massimocamia.it

http://enotecadelbarbaresco.com

http://lapiola-alba.it

http://reginadellealpi.com

http://lapiola-alba.it

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine

Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Traveling across small-town country in the U.S. is always a reminder that an overwhelming number of Americans care little about fine wine. In big and medium-sized U.S. cities today, it’s almost impossible not to find at least a handful of venues where the wine program is thoughtfully authored and managed. But as our recent trip to Orange Beach (near Gulf Shores), Alabama revealed, even in popular tourist destinations like the pristine white beaches of the Alabama coast, wine is just another adult beverage like the tequila, vodka, and beer etc. restaurateurs use to fill their bar wells . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “

In the 1600s, Spanish missionaries heading north from Mexico brought vine cuttings to plant when they crossed the Rio Grande and entered the frontier land of Tejas, now called Texas. Their vines were Criolla, a cultivar of a European vinifera wine grape that made its way from Spain to Argentina and on upward to Mexico and finally into Texas. These days, many people just referred to the Criolla grapes by the name “Mission” because they were used to make wine for sacraments in the Catholic services at the missions. Fast forward to the 1970s, May 1974 to be exact, when a young UT grad and Houston marketing consultant Dean Joyner announced that his Haversack Wine Company would be opening its general office in Fredericksburg. He also announced that his wine company had a partner, a California wine producer. The goal was to begin a brand merchandising program built around the “haversack” theme. What’s a haversack? Well, read further and you’ll find out . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “At the beginning of August, our family hopped on a plane and left Houston for France. Although the purpose of the trip was to travel a bit and to deliver our older son Nathan to Lyon where he will be studying for the semester, it sure was nice to get away from the heat in Houston . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”

Updated August 2

We all have special wines that serve as reference points on our oenological journeys. Two of mine converged in Houston last week. Michael Honig conducted a tasting of his Hoenig wines (http://honigwines.com) at Double Decanted on Tuesday evening and David Gates, representing Ridge Vineyards (http://ridgewines.com), took the spotlight Thursday evening at Vault & Vino.

I first met Honig, pictured below, back in the late 1990s at his Rutherford winery on a trip with a restaurant friend. She had turned me on to the Honig Sauvignon Blanc, which, as it happened, was his best-known wine. Unfortunately, it still wasn’t that well-known because, he said, “Nobody wanted to drink sauvignon blanc in those days. Remember, Robert Mondavi changed the name of his to Fume Blanc.”

Things have changed, of course, although not the Honig Sauvignon Blanc. Or, better, sauvignon blancs. The 2021 Reserve ($38 at http://honigwine.com) really sings. To quote James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “The extraordinary interplay between fruit and oak creates a richly textured mid-palate that is seamlessly balanced on solid acidity and minerality.” Suckling suggests it will drink nicely through 2026, if not longer. The Honig cabs rock, too. Note that Fleming’s is featuring the Honig sav blanc this month ($13 for a glass, $57 for a bottle) as a surf & turf pairing.

Check out the website and you’ll see a picture of him on a tractor in 1984 at the age of 22 as he began the process of reviving what was then a failing winery. At 61, Honig’s still in the game, spending more time on the road spreading the good word than he does at the property. He loves meeting his customers almost as much as he loves drinking his wines.

Ridge, of course, is the stuff of legend. In the late 1950s, three Stanford Research Institute engineers pooled their resources to purchase a gorgeous plot of land high in the Santa Cruz Mountains above the Palo Alto campus. The land, bought for recreationally purposes only, came with an abandoned winery and a scraggly vineyard. But it produced enough grapes for the three “garagistes” to make a quarter of a barrel of damned good cabernet. by 1962, they had released a first official vintage and the rest is history. You can get all the details at http://ridgewine.com.

Gates, shown below, oversees the extensive vineyard operations for Ridge and has been part of the Ridge team since1989, which was about the time I was all in on the Ridge Zinfandels from Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and Paso Robles, and the Geyserville red blend. In fact, those were my go-to reds for at least a decade, until putting down roots in southeastern France turned my focus to the Southern Rhone and Italy’s Piemonte.

But it was a splendid tasting experience to revisit all of the above plus Ridge’s Chardonnay, Estate Cabernet and, of course, the big dog cab, Monte Bello. My discretionary spending budget never quite caught up with the latter’s price point (it’s now $250 at Spec’s) for me to become a regular imbiber, never mind collector, but there’s real value in the others. I will be reloading on my next trip to the Midtown store.

Another notable H-town visitor has been David Keck (pictured below), back in Houston on Tuesday to lead a trade seminar on Rhone Valley wines at the Art of Cellaring (http://artofcellaring.com). Keck, of course, became a leading figure in H-Town’s vibrant wine scene first as the somm at Uchi before running the show at Camerata and then laying the foundation for March’s extensive wine program.

In 2020, as COVID-19 was turning the hospitality industry upside down — and before March opened — he packed up and returned to his native Vermont to reinvent himself as a winemaker, “the most humbling experience I’ve ever had,” he concedes. But his Stella XIV Wines business (http://stella14wines.com) is helping put Vermont on the world’s wine map. You’ll find a nice story about Keck’s recent New England adventures at http://thinkvermont.com.

But subsequently things have gotten even more complicated. A hard freeze with frost on May 25 — May 25! — cost Keck 85 percent of his grape harvest for 2023. Therefore, he has taken a couple new “day jobs” such as partnering with groups such as the Rhone Valley Vineyards and working remotely for the AI wine-and-spirit firms http://preferabli.com to augment his income. His presentation was spot-on, of course. Keck knows his stuff and he’s a great entertainer. I thought I knew everything about the Rhone Valley. Boy was I wrong, and I’ll be sharing at least some of what I learned in a future blog.

I told Keck, “Don’t be a stranger. Come back and see us.” He promised he would.

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Jim Crane, Justin Verlander and Framber Valdez

August has been a great month for the Astros through the years, but they never had a day in August like yesterday. Crane, the best and brightest Houston owner team in history by far, is always in it to win it NOW and that’s why Verlander returns after being on loan to the Mets for a few months. The news so juiced Valdez, who hadn’t pitched well of late, that he tossed a 93-pitch no-no at Cleveland, the Astros’ fifth in the last five seasons — an historic major-league first. (Yep, Verlander had one of those, too, on Sept. 1, 2019.) Framber’s gem was the 16th no-hitter in franchise history and left the now-quaking-in-their-boots Texas Rangers just a half game up in the division standings.

Raising a glass to . . . Mark Berman

My great friend and longtime press box colleague surprised me by retiring recently, although his timing was perfect — before the start of Texans training camp, because there’s nothing worse than covering training camp. Berman was the sports anchor at Channel 26 for more years than either of us care to count, but he was also the hardest working reporter on the local sports scene. Not for nothing did we call him “Scoop.” He broke more stories than the rest of his TV colleagues combined. While it’s hard to picture Berman kicking back in the recliner Mattress Mack gave him for a going-away present, he swears his been-there-done-that time had come. Cheers, Scoop!

And to . . . Lawson Craddock

The 31-year-old Houstonian’s first Tour de France start — and finish — since 2018 proved a memorable one. Riding for Team Jayco Ulula, he completed cycling’s greatest race for the third time in three career starts. A personal highlight would be his fourth place finish in stage 15, a brutal day in the Alps near Mont Blanc when he led a dramatic breakaway. And his team boss, Simon Yates, copped fourth in the yellow jersey standings. Although this Tour lacked the poignant drama of five years ago, when Craddock broke his scapula during the first stage yet still pedaled — in last place — all the way to the Champs Elysees over three agonizing weeks (raising nearly $300,000 to repair the Hurricane Harvey-damaged Alkek Velodrome in the process), he said it best himself: “If you make it to the Tour de France, you’re doing pretty well.” Damn straight, Lawson!

And to . . . Case Keenum

The onetime fancy-passing Houston Cougar has come full circle, coming home to the Texans, where his NFL career began 11 years ago. An undrafted free agent, Keenum never left the practice squad as a rookie in 2012, then went 0-8 as a starter during the disastrous 2013 season. But he won both his starts a year later before moving on to the Rams –playing in both St. Louis and Los Angeles — Minnesota, Washington, Cleveland and Buffalo. Replacing the injured Sam Bradford, he led the Vikings to the brink of the Super Bowl in 2017. Here, he’ll help mentor rookie top draft pick C.J. Stroud and serve as an all-around positive veteran presence in the Texans locker room. Fact is, Keenum should be raising a glass to himself, given that he’s also part owner of the Haak Vineyards & Winery down in Sante Fe.

But pouring one out for . . . Bob West

Another great sports journalist passed this week. West was a beloved and revered columnist in Port Arthur for decades and I had the privilege of spending lots of time with him back in the Luv ya Blue Oilers era. Nobody got closer to his fellow Golden Triangle homey Bum Phillips than Bob. RIP, my friend.

 H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “

Racially charged comments posted on Facebook yesterday by Friulian grape grower and winemaker Fulvio Bressan have sparked outrage in the online food and wine community.

In a statement evidently addressed to Italian integration minister Cécile Kyenge — Italy’s first African-Italian minister — Bressan offered his opinion on a recently implemented government program that provides temporary housing for undocumented immigrants . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Until earlier this year, Grüner Veltliner was not in my Texas wine lexicon. But, there it was. My first thought was how could this be so?After all, Austria is a cool winegrowing region, right? Texas is actually the opposite, being described politely as a “warm” winegrowing region, and less than politely as just “damn hot . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme. Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre) . . . “

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Sure, for those in the know, my title for this article is a no-brainer. But if you’re not in the know, please be sure to check out my article on the work that John Rivenburgh is doing through his Kerrville Hills incubator for the Texas wine industry. You can find it over at the Vintner Project: “John Rivenburgh & his Kerrville Hills Incubator Propel Texas Wine Growth.” I had a great time talking to John about what he does as well as getting the perspectives of others in the industry who have worked with him. He really is great for Texas wine . . .”

Updated July 22

I’ve had a great run of tasting experiences lately, including some remarkable reds. But, sorry, it’s too damned hot to talk about red wine today, although my fellow wine bloggers Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) and Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) both ferreted out smart options as you’ll read below. Anyway, these were my favorite bottles of bubbles and rosés, plus a lovely debut sauvignon blanc from my old friends at Alexander Valley Vineyards.

BUBBLES

Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra-Brut

From the winemaker: “A straw gold color and very fine bubbles. Its delicate hue comes from to the use of a high percentage of chardonnay (33 percent) and of the first pressing only. The first aromas reveal the citrus character of the chardonnay, such as lime and grapefruits. Red fruit aromas then come out, including redcurrant, raspberry, morello cherry – typical pinot noir (45 percent). On leaving the wine to open up, candied fruits, even exotic fruits of pinot meunier appear with aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is lively. The nose is confirmed by the first taste, including citrus, almonds, toasted bread and “brioche”… but also redcurrant jelly, and dark fruits like cherry, fig or blackberry. The palate is full, quite long, with a very clean finish. Elegant, but not without complexity, this wine perfectly illustrates the house style.”

From me: Paillard was born in Reims in 1953 into a family already several generations steeped in the champagne trade — but only as grape growers and brokers. He, too, began his career as a broker before, at the age of 27, launching the first new champagne house in his neighborhood in nearly a century. Fourteen years later he had done well enough to purchase his first vineyard, three grand cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Today, his daughter Alice runs the show. Their bubbles are as good as bubbles from Champagne get at this price point.

$60.99 at Spec’s

2015 Artesa Codorníu Grand Reserve Brut

From the winemaker: “Continuing the grand tradition of Cavas Codorniu, which dates back to 1872, this Brut was produced using old world methods, and taking benefit of the incredible quality of the grapes farmed in our beloved region of Los Carneros, Napa Valley. It displays beautiful, fragrant aromas of pear, honeydew and apricot. Uplifting citrus flavors and fine bubbles are wrapped in crisp acidity, yet the round, creamy mouthfeel that comes from the wines years of lees contact persists through a lingering finish. Over time, the sparkling wine will continue to develop complexity.”

From me: A friend introduced me to this sparkler, which is available only through Artesa, and I’ll be internally thankful for that. It’s a tad pricey for what can only be described as an American Cava but still worth every penny.

$60 at http://shop.artesawinery.com

Pierre Spar Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “Salmon pink color with fresh aromas of soft red berries, predominantly strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, round and fruity with hints of peach. The flavors are intense, with lively acidity framed by a well-made structure and delicate bubbles. The finish is smooth, clean and dry.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which score it a 90: “Yeasty mellowness is all that the shy nose gives away. The dark-pink hue of this wine promises body and fruit, which duly appear on the creamy palate. Mellow strawberry and apple pair with gentle freshness. A chalky texture supports the frothy foam while freshness highlights the dry roundness of the finish.”

From me: Maison Pierre Sparr knows its stuff. The Sparrs have been producing cremant since 1680. Made from pinot noir grown in Alsace’s prestigious Hau Rhin, it’s a superb bargain. It’s yet another bottle of excellent bubbles introduced to me by a friend. No man is an island, right?

$21.99 at Whole Foods

ROSÉS

Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2021

From the winemaker: “A pink appearance like raspberry, expressive nose with notes of little red berries. On the palate, the wine is very balanced and in line with the nose. The palate is full with a long length. Good acidity provides a tense finale. Beautiful complexity, fine, fresh, fruity and elegant.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “Pale garnet in color and gorgeously perfumed with blossoms and watermelon, this crisp, blackberry-flavored rosé juxtaposes zesty black fruit flavors against a deep, penetrating undertone of crushed stone and spice. A stately expression of Tavel that’s likely to drink beautifully year-round.”

From me: Tavel’s are unique because it’s France’s only AOC permitted to produce rose and rose only. Trinquevedel owner Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm these vineyards, which were purchased along with a ramshackle chateau by his great-grandfather in 1936. But it took 24 more years to get the grapes up to snuff. Note that it was Louis XIV who first put Tavel on the map. The pink wines from the sunny region were almost all the Sun King drank.

$19.79 from http://wine.com

2022 Scaia Rosato Veneto

From the winemaker: “This Rosato is a pink-hued wine made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella grape variety that is not often seen on its own. It’s fresh and floral and delightfully refreshing.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “A pale, tight and nervy rosé with aromas and flavors of apricot skin and orange peel. Medium-bodied with super-clean, crisp flavor. Nicely done.”

From me: The Scaia project, begun in 2006, was established by the four brothers behind Tenuta Sant’Antonio in eastern Valpolicella with the aim of creating wines with a modern style not constricted by the denomination system. Why Scaia? That’s a word in the Veronese dialect for crumbs, like little pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that break off the large block, which the soil resembles. It’s thought to impart a higher acidity and bolder fruit character to the wines.

17.99 at http://wine.com

WHITE

2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “There are aromas of tropical fruits, passion fruit, green apple, grapefruit and melon. Bright acidity is followed by fresh juicy flavors of citrus – lime, grapefruit, and lemongrass, along with a slight minerality. It’s a lively wine bottled with a stelvin closure to lock in the freshness.”  

From me: The newest member of the AVV family — a double gold medalist in the 2023 North Cosat wine Competition — it was made from fruit grown in the Croft Vineyard, a unique parcel on the southern edge of the Alexander Valley that sits in a saddle 700 feet above the valley floor, allowing the fog from the coast to penetrate early in the morning. That cools off the vines and extends the hang-time for the grapes. Et voilà!

$24 at http://shop.avvwine.com (Or $26 at Porta’Vino)

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 26, at R-C Ranch. http://eventbrite.com $100

An Evening with Ridge Vineyards’ David Gates: 6:30-8 p.m., Thursday, July 27, at Vault & Vino. RSVP to JAMESBARLOW@SPECSONLINE.COM $50

Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Thanks to my teaching gig at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, I’ve been making at least two or more trips to the region every year for the last eight vintages. That’s been great news for my Jewish boy stomach: Piedmont is home to what is arguably my favorite dish of all times — vitello tonnato . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “As long as it’s 76 F inside, I can pretend that it is late October with the low-humidity wind coming nicely out of the north. But, now… what wine? After a search of my wine cooler, I found it…”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

Embarking on a catchup pinot noir tasting, the DC writes: “I am currently experiencing a phenomenon that I could not have fathomed a decade ago: I am awash in samples. According to my inventory, I am currently hovering around 200 bottles that were sent to me to taste. Since I am a bit of a math geek, I did some calculations: If I average going through 15 bottles a week (three a day—I try not to “work” on the weekend), that comes out to about 13 weeks of wine . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “If you’ve followed my adventures to Oregon wine country here and here (to name a couple) you know that I’ve got mad love for the wines of the entire state! Since the dreaded ‘Rona reared its ugly head, there has been so much going on there with some really notable changes. Of course, we were all locked down and some of it sorta went unnoticed. Emerging from the pandemic, the changes have continued. One of the big changes has been the creation of additional Willamette Valley AVAs. American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) is just a fancy way of saying a designated region. And for Oregon, it’s a big deal . . .”