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Sippin’ with Sporty . . .

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BUBBLES

Cave de Lugny Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs

The basics – It’s 100-percent chardonnay from, of course, Burgundy.   

Winemaker’s take – “Pleases with its freshness, red fruit aromas and tangy finish. Easy to pair, it will delight at all your tasting occasions – aperitif, cocktail, spicy main courses and dessert – and will also perfectly complement your sushi.”

Critical acclaim – From Decanter, which scored it a 90: “This is a great alternative to Champagne – at a fraction of the price. Fresh, light and dry with ripe apple and grapefruit. Lovely foaming mouthfeel with creamy notes and a tangy finish –very complex for the price. This is Burgundy’s most reliable co-op, so fill up your fridge.”

My take – Well, as a matter of fact, I did.

Price – $21.49 at Whole Foods

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley

The basics – It’s always a 60-40 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from the Roederer’s 600 acres of estate-grown grapes in this special corner of Mendocino County.

Winemaker’s take – “A crisp and elegant sparkling wine with complex pear, spice and hazelnut flavors.”

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 95: “A chardonnay-dominant, fresh and vibrant wine with aromas of sliced pears, wildflowers, citrus blossoms and wet stones. The plate shows fresh acidity, minerality and subtle, pleasing notes of fresh bread. Citrus juice and peel in the finish. Lovely, easygoing and pleasurable.” And from Jeb Dunnuck, who also scored it a 95: “With a refined mousse and dry, crisp, lengthy layers of green apple, citrus, and a bite of brioche. With 10-12 percent reserve wine from cask, it represents from five to seven vintages in one bottle, from two to seven years old, the style of the house. The reserve aged in oak adds texture and length, broadening the chardonnay’s natural citrus-driven notes and lightness of being. Disgorged April 2024, the amount of dosage has gone down year to year and is around nine grams per liter this time around.”

My take – Roederer’s California and Champagne Louis Roederer’s French winemakers conspire to deliver this wine, which tastes about as French as American bubbles can taste – at a most friendly price. 

Price – $29.99 at Kroger

PINK

2025 La Vieille Ferme

The basics – From the famous Family Perrin, it’s a field blend of bourboulenc, grenache blanc, roussanne, ugni blanc and vermentino grown mainly within the Parc Regional du Luberon equidistant from Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Manosque.

Winemaker’s take – “The hot, sunny summer encouraged excellent concentration in the grapes, while the cool nights preserved aromatic freshness and good acidity levels, essential for balanced wines. Despite the heat and some rain at the end of the harvest, the grapes remained remarkably healthy, with particularly concentrated fruit and controlled yields.”

My take – This is crazy good juice for the price and I love that the fruit grows only a couple of hours from my home turf in Haute Provence.   

Price — $7.99 at Kroger

WHITE

Bonneté Blanc de France

The basics – It’s sustainably-grown sauvignon blanc from the renowned Gunz Gravel terraces near Saint-Émilion, ideally situated between the right bank of the Garonne River to the south and the left bank of the Dordogne River to the north.

Winemaker’s take – “Beautiful pale yellow hue with gold hints. To the nose fresh aromas of white flowers and exotic fruits are remarkable on this wine. The sauvignon blanc is bringing freshness and complexity.”

My take – The vineyards belong to my great friends, Houstonians Jean-François and Nathalie Bonnette, so it’s hard to be objective, but I don’t have to be, do I? I just keep drinking this vibrant, wonderfully priced white.

Price – $11.98 at Spec’s

RED

2020 Pinino Brunello di Montalcino

The basics – It’s 100 percent Sangiovese grosso from Salvatore Ferragamo’s Il Borro winery not far from Montalcino in the heart of Tuscany. 

Winemaker’s take – “Embodies the productive philosophy, the values connected to the environmental typicality, the expertise and passion both in the vineyards and the cellar: a carefully selected blend of the grapes produced in the two areas where the vineyards are, which translates into a wine with an intense ruby red color in which aromas of blackberries and plums blend with hints of spices. In the mouth it’s velvety, full-bodied and smooth.

Critical acclaim – From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 94: “The sweet, floral nose blooms with aromas of mandarin blossom, candied orange peel, tart cherry and wild strawberry. The palate adds a smear of raspberry jam to more notes of strawberry, citrus and florals, before a finish of sea salt and milk chocolate.”

My take – Ferragamo has got the drill down: Fermentation in steel tanks at a controlled temperature, on-skin maceration from 18 to 25 days, followed at least 30 months of aging in oak barrels and barriques.

Price – $74.99 at Premier Fine Wine & Spirits

2024 Il Borro Borrigiano

The basics – Sangiovese makes up 70 percent of the blend and, of course, cabernet sauvignon the rest.

Winemaker’s take – The year began with a mild and dry climate that lasted from January until May, when a period of heavy rainfall commenced, continuing through mid-June. The summer saw heat spikes that were counterbalanced by a cooler autumn with several rain events. The harvested grapes yielded balanced musts and wines that featured prominent floral and mineral notes, with a lower (13 percent) alcohol content.”

My take – It’s Super Tuscan for a superb price. Yep, Ferragamo hits another one out of the park.

Price – $19.99 at Total Wine

2022 Abbona Barbera del Monferrato

The basics – The barbera grapes grow in the vineyards around Monferrato – obviously.

Winemaker’s take – “A purplish ruby red wine, it features fresh and clean aromas of black currants, blueberry, red fruits and violet notes. With a warm and elegant profile, the wine is full-bodied and presents a pleasant, harmonious palate.”

My take – I happily keep stumbling upon delicious value-driven reds from this under-appreciated corner of the Piemonte. #yay

Price – $18.99 at Total Wine

2022 Pernici Monferrato Nebbiolo

The basics – The Morando Winery fruit also grows – obviously – near Monferrato, not far from Asti in Italy’s Piemonte.

Winemaker’s take – “An intense, full-bodied nebbiolo showing ripe red fruits, violet, and a hint of vanilla. Velvety with slight herbaceous notes.”

My take – A quaffable nebbiolo for under 10 bucks? Mama mia!

Price – $8.97 at Total Wine

Sippin’ with Sporty

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Happy Valentine’s Day, everyone!

BUBBLES

La Vostra Conegliano Valdobbiadene

The basics – The Conegliano Valdobbiadene appellation, near the center of the Treviso province, was created in 1969 and promoted to DOCG status 40 years later. These bubbles, of course, are made from the glera grape.

Winemaker’s take –   “Peach and slight honey aromas become flavors on the palate, along with a nice green apple note that brightens the wine. Approachable and round with an easy-to-enjoy, smooth, bubbly texture.”

My take – I thought it offered remarkable value when I bought it for $16.99 a bottle. Now? Woo hoo!

Price – $12.99 at Total Wine

WHITE

2024 Imaginada IV Albariño

The basics – The albarino gets fleshed out by chenin blanc, chardonnay and trebbiano, all of which is Texas High Plains fruit.        

Winemaker’s take – “A brilliant pale straw in color, this lovely wine is a made-for-friends and late afternoon quaffing. Charming aromas of peaches, pineapple, lemon and tangerine yield a soft, delicate, and perfectly balanced palate leading to a crisp, refreshing finish.” 

My take – Invention is justifiably proud of its low-alcohol wines. This one is only 12.7 percent, but that never crosses your mind while you sip it. Super-satisfying at every level.     

Price – $40 at https://heathfamilybrands.com/shop/wines/inventionvineyards/

2023 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay

The basics – The Mâcon-Villages AOC is located in the southern part of Burgundy, close to Beaujolais. It’s the largest of the Mâconnais area, covering about 2,500 hectares of mostly chardonnay vineyards encompassing 43 communes.

Winemaker’s take – “Shows floral, apple and citrus aromas and flavors, with mineral notes. A classic expression of Chardonnay from this appellation.”  

My take – You’ll look long and hard trying to find a more fundamentally satisfying chardonnay from anywhere.  

Price – $15.97 at wine.com

PINK

2025 Domaine de Mourchon Loubie

The basics – A classic grenache (70 percent) and syrah blend, the fruit comes from young vines – average age 15 years – planted on the property’s Loubié terroir near Seguret with its well-draining sandy limestone and clay soil. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures.

Winemaker’s take – “Pale salmon in color this rosé offers a bouquet of summer berries, peach and a little tangerine. Mouth-wateringly juicy, with a medium-bodied creaminess packed with vibrant fruit flavors, it’s ideal as a summer aperitif but well enough structured to stand up to seasonal foods such as salad Niçoise, a watermelon, basil and burrata salad, dressed crab and prosciutto.”

My take – From the McKinlay family, it has been my favorite rosé for years, checking all the boxes – price, flavor profile,       

Price – $18.99 at Spec’s

RED

2023 Madame de Beaucaillou

The basics – This “second” wine from the second-growth producer Ducru-Beaucaillou in St. Julien is a blend of merlot (59 percent), cabernet (37) and petit verdot.  

Winemaker’s take – “Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it zips out of the glass with sparky notes of juicy raspberries and wild strawberries with underlying suggestions of cloves, roses, and dusty soil. The medium-bodied palate is bright and refreshing, with youthful red berry flavors and a lightly chewy texture, finishing with a touch of herbal zing.”

Critical acclaim –From Peter Moser: “Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Delicately leafy black cherry fruit with a hint of liquorice and orange zest. Complex, juicy, a hint of blueberry, ripe tannins, freshly structured, lively, lemon finish.”

My take – No, not all Bordeaux must break the bank. The Madame would hold up against most of the big boys.     

Price – $22.98 at allendalewineshoppe.com

2022 Invention Vineyard Conflation

The basics – It’s mostly mourvedre (81 percent) with syrah and rubired in the blend, too.              

Winemaker’s take – This inaugural vintage of an exciting new Invention Vineyards wine is a Rhone-style blend featuring fresh aromas of strawberry shortcake and tart cherry with a spice-driven undercurrent of vanilla, cinnamon, and clove. The crisp palate is bright, lively, and refreshing with brisk acidity that makes it a great wine for lighter, warm-weather meals.   

Critical acclaim – From the Wine Enthusiast: “This nimble blend delivers fresh raspberry, violet and strawberry aromas on the nose, while the palate dances with lively acidity and a notable sour cherry-cinnamon vibe. Give this a slight chill and crush it with slow cooked pork tacos

My take – Again, the Invention lineup is focused on lower alcohol levels, and the Conflation comes in at 13 percent with no loss of flavor intensity.

Price – $55.29 at heathfamilybrands.com/shop

2021 Ceretto Barbaresco

Winemaker’s take – An elegant red, offering cherry, strawberry, floral and mineral flavors. Lively and focused, with a line of chalky tannins underneath. Shows fine balance and length.

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 93: “This is a really solid, meaty and mouth-filling Barbaresco that offers vivid red fruit with floral and mineral nuances and hints of licorice and cedar. Medium- to full-bodied with compact, velvety tannins that form the backbone of the wine, showing impressive concentration and length.” From the Wine Advocate, which also scored it a 93: “Reveals a lifted bouquet with bright tones of raspberry and wild strawberry. Those aromas offer a sweet side to the bouquet, but there is also a sour side that comes forth with blood orange or tart pomegranate. The wine ages in French oak for 12 months and is racked into neutral barrel for another year. Fruit comes from both Treiso and Barbaresco.”  

My take – The vintage is already acquiring legendary status in the Langhe and this beautiful Barbaresco classico from one of the region’s great families is another reason why.   

Price – $79.99 at wine.com

2020 Il Borro

The basics – It’s a Super Tuscan blend of organically grown merlot (50 percente), cabernet sauvignon (35) and syrah aged in 20-hectoliter casks.

Winemaker’s take – “After an accurate geological study, the varietals were all  planted in the best suited soils to express all their potential, giving birth to a velvety and opulent blend.”

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 96: “This is a round and rather juicy young wine with blackberry, chocolate and grilled meat notes. Full and layered with very fine tannins that are well integrated and a bright finish. Lively at the end.  From the Wine Advocate, which scored it a 93: “The wine shows a lot of oak that comes off as toasted spice, coconut or buttered almond. There is a distant note of dried dill, probably in the pyrazine family of the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it dissipates within the context of the big, ripe black fruit at the core. From a hot vintage, you get a lot of richness and fruit weight.”

 My take – It’s early, of course, but this is my Wine of the Year to 2026. We’ll see if anyone can beat it going forward.    

Price – $89.99 at wine.com

2021 Realm The Bard

The basics – It’s 83 percent cabernet sauvignon with merlot, cab franc, petit verdot and petite sirah rounding out the blend.   

Winemaker’s take – The 2021 is the largest and most complex blend we’ve ever made with dozens of components from vineyards across the realm of Napa Valley. This vintage includes new vineyard sources from Calistoga, Rutherford and Oak Knoll AVA, allowing us to broaden our painter’s palette. The Bard is generally more approachable in its youth than some of our single vineyard bottlings, but we expect it to age for many years to come. This is our first time using a technical cork for this

wine, which should guarantee consistency and improve longevity.”

Critical acclaim – From Jeb Dunnick, who scored it a 98: “This beauty has a killer bouquet of cassis, spring flowers, graphite, chalky minerality, and violets. This carries to a full-bodied, seamless, silky, flawlessly balanced effort revealing fine tannins, a good sense of freshness, and a thrilling finish.” And from James Suckling, who scored it a 97: “The purity of fruit here is impressive with blackcurrants, bark and black mushrooms. Full-bodied but light-footed and fresh with integrated tannins that melt into the wine. Real transparency and focus.”  

My take – Full disclosure: I didn’t pay anywhere near this much for the Bard (I knew a guy!), but it’s not overpriced by any means. I can’t imagine a more perfectly constructed cab.    

Price – $174.99 at wine.com

Sippin’ with Sporty, Part II

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Merry Christmas everyone!

BUBBLES

Incanto Prosecco

The basics – It’s 100-percent glera from the Veneto, as it must be.                                         

Trader Joe’s take – “Straw-yellow in your glass, and every sip crisp and aromatic. Luxurious notes of peach, apricot, and almond tickle the tongue and lead to a vivid, dry finish. We particularly love it for toasts and nightcaps, but it also makes magical mimosas for brunch.”

My take – Before the New Year, I’m going to drink these bubbles side-by-side with Costco’s Kirkland Prosecco and attempt to decide on a favorite. Then again, I may declare it a tie. At this price, very similar to the Kirkland’s price, why bother to quibble?   

For more information – www.traderjoes.com

Price – $8.99 at Trader Joe’s

PINK

2024 Ile de Conas Le Rosé

The basics – It’s a kitchen-sink blend of grenache gris (25 percent), grenache noir (20), caladoc (15), pinot gris (15) and cinsault from the highly respected Paul Mas estate in the Languedoc.

Winemaker’s take – “This unique Mediterranean blend is succulent with a delicate, tongue-tingly zest. Bursting with flavors,it can be served as a pre-dinner drink or paired with salmon teriyaki, zucchini, carpaccio or Mediterranean salad.”

Critical acclaim – From the Cheap Wine Finder: “Tastes like a stew of honey, pear, and lemon, followed by cherry and tart cranberry. The mid-palate adds melon, a salty sensation, and raspberry hard candy (not sweet). The acidity is well-balanced, allowing the flavors to unfold and beckons you to take the next sip.”

My take – It’s my new house rosé for reasons of flavor, price and the gorgeous bottle.  

Price – $8.99 at Trader Joe’s

WHITE

2023 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay

The basics – The grapes, 96 percent chardonnay with a bit of gewürztraminer and other white varietals thrown in to add nuance, come from the winery’s estate vineyards, of which there are 30 in six different AVAs.        

Winemaker’s take – “This wine is rich and round, opening with aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, golden apple, toasted marshmallow, and vanilla bean. The palate shows incredible depth with layers of Bartlet pear and graham cracker leading to hazelnut and baking spice on the finish.”

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Generous aromas of lemon confit, vanilla, pastry and yellow apples. The palate is full-bodied with bright acidity and a creamy texture, the slight phenolic grip adding to the structure. Ripe yet elegantly balanced and refreshing.”

My take – A reliable workhorse, it may not dazzle, but it never disappoints.

For more information – www.ferrari-carano.com

Price – $16.37 at Spec’s

RED

Drop of Sunshine Red Blend

The basics – It’s an unusual blend of Central Coast pinot noir (62 percent), syrah (19), and cabernet sauvignon.  

Winemaker’s take – “Rich and full-bodied, this red blend envelops the senses with the bold flavors of dark, ripe fruits, including luscious blackberry and deep black cherry. Smooth, velvety tannins provide a perfect structure, while well-integrated toasty oak and a hint of spice add complexity and warmth. The wine’s round, approachable character delivers a seamless finish, making it an inviting and balanced companion for any occasion.”

Critical acclaim – From the Tasting Panel: “This warm and cozy wine exudes toasty aromas and flavors of plum, cherry, and raspberry lightly drizzled with vanilla and caramel; taut acidity adds a spark to its velvety mouthfeel.”

My take – We don’t see many pinot noir-cab blends, do we? But I paired it with a burger and fries and that proved to be about as perfect pairing as exists.

For more information – www.dropofsunshine.com

Price – $19.99 at Total Wine

2019 Adobe Road SHIFT Red Blend

The basics – It’s blend of zinfandel (52 percent), teroldego (25), syrah (18) and carignane fruit from Sonoma County (61 percent) and Santa Barbara County. Adobe Road founder Kevin Beckler has been an auto-racing maven for more than three decades with 200-plus podium finishes around the glove, which explains the truly ingenious bottle design.      

Winemaker’s take – “SHIFT your palate into gear with dark blue fruits. Zinfandel brings the strawberry compote and Teroldego is all about cocoa nibs and blueberries. Syrah adds a touch of everything that’s good about food off the grill, and Carignane deepens the aromas with fresh cigar. Complex baking spices, caramel notes, and a big mouthfeel make this an incredible wine.”

Critical acclaim – From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “A high-octane red that retains a sense of style and polish, with expressive cherry, cassis, licorice and savory cracked pepper flavors that zoom toward medium-grained tannins.” And from Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 91: “It’s full-bodied and packed with spice, with toasted cedar, cracked pepper, plum, and scorched earth. It’s another warming wine, with ripe tannins and an earthy finish as well as a coating and lasting feel.”

My take – A big, bracing, flavorful wine. Note that Dunnuck also scored the 2021 Adobe Road Red Line a 92, and that red, a blend of six varietals, also revved up my palate bigtime. (Sorry, couldn’t resist.)   

For more info – https://adoberoadwines.com

Price – $42.99 at a smattering of Total Wine stores around the Houston area. The Red Line can be ordered from the Saratoga Wine Exchange (www.saratogawine.com), which ships to Texas. Their price is $39.94.

2023 Domaine de Mourchon Tradition

The basics – it’s a concrete-aged grenache-syrah blend from the winery’s three principal terroirs just outside the Rhone Valley village of Seguret.  

Winemaker’s take – “This wine is deep garnet in color with a complex nose of juicy red berries, liquorice, ground pepper and black olive. Ripe and round on the palate, richly textured and balanced with notable freshness and fine tannins.”

Critical acclaim – From Janis Robinson: “Juicy sweet fruit but with structure and amazing freshness. Offers lots of pleasure.”                   

My take – I couldn’t agree with Janis more. It’s just a delicious wine that pairs comfortably with almost everything. I’ve probably been through 50 cases in my lifetime.

For more information – www.domainedemourchon.com

Price – $20.49 at Spec’s

2024 Fratelli Revello Nebbiolo d’Alba

The basics – The grapes come from a southeast-facing vineyard near Annunziata – on the hillside below La Morra – planted in 1996.

Winemaker’s Take – “A beautiful nose of strawberry and savory herbs that leads to great structure. Brighter notes of red and black cherries compliment the depth of fruit on the palate. Vanilla and cedar round out the smooth finish that ends with fine and silky tannins.”

My take – I love finding nebbiolos that can pass for a Barolos, as this one does in spades. 

For more information – www.revello.wine.com

Price – $29.99 at Spec’s 

Sippin’ with Sporty, Part 1

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The wines touted here and in my next blog to follow are among the most intriguing I’ve tasted over the past sixth months and that can currently be found either on local store shelves or through on-line purchase — especially important, of course, this time of the year. Some are new to me; others have been my go-to bottles for years.

As for the very best wines I’ve sampled of late . . . Good luck finding or affording them. I’ll share that story soon.   

BUBBLES

Champagne Mailly Grand Cru

The basics – It’s a classic blend of pinot noir (75 percent) and chardonnay from only Grand Cru vineyards.

Winemaker’s take – “Iridescent golden yellow tones, full, fruity nose, clean palate. A very come-hither Champagne: racy, elegant and deeply sensual, with beguiling bubbles that literally burst with luscious fruit. Mouth-watering hints of lightly toasted, freshly buttered bread.”

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling: “A fruit-forward style with yellow plums and stone fruit, enhanced by lemon zest.  Light-bodied and crisp, if not zesty, with a good finish.” 

My take – These tasty bubbles were new to me when I tasted the Mailly for the first time not knowing the price. It turned out the price is right.  

For more information – www.champagne-mailly.com

Price – $45.99 at Total Wine

WHITE

Drop of Sunshine Chardonnay

The basics – It’s 100-percent chardonnay from various California Central Coast vineyards.

Winemaker’s take – “A masterclass in balance, this Chardonnay opens with a burst of zesty lemon tart, seamlessly blending with the minerality that defines its crisp character. The finish reveals the lush sweetness of nectarine and ripe pear, while subtle hints of oak—delicate yet perfectly integrated—add depth without overpowering the freshness. This wine showcases a refined harmony of bright acidity and sophisticated structure, leaving a lasting impression of clarity and finesse.”

My take – Again, this wine proves you don’t have spend a fortune to satisfy your sipping urges. The complexity is startling considering the price. 

For more information – www.dropofsunshine.com

Price – $15.99 at Total Wine

2024 Portlandia Pinot Gris

The basics – It’s most pinot gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley with a tiny bit of riesling blended in to add complexity.

Winemaker’s take – “Brilliantly balanced, bright, and bursting with lively aromas, this Pinot Gris delights from the first sip. A hint of lemon zest, plush pear, and sun-kissed stone fruit paint a tantalizing picture, while crisp green apple and juicy peach play on the palate. A refreshing ribbon of racy acidity and a sleek, stony minerality lend depth and distinction, making every sip purely pleasurable.”

My take – It’s the perfect aperitif wine at a very friendly price.

For more information – www.portlandiawine.com

Price – $16.97 from www.wine.com

2023 Ron Yates Sauvignon Blanc

The basics – The sauvignon blanc grapes grow at an elevation of 3,500 feet in the remote Dell Valley Vineyards 75 miles east of El Paso.

Winemaker’s take – “Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and silky tannins, the wine offers excellent food-pairing versatility while maintaining elegant structure. Notes of dried herbs, leather, and subtle spice.”

My take – Yates ranks among my very favorite Texas winemakers and he’s a master of his craft. The proof is in the bottle.  

For more information – www.ronyateswines.com

Price – $34.99 at Houston Wine Merchant

2024 Illumination Sauvignon Blanc

The basics – It’s a mix of Sonoma and Napa fruit, which is hand-picked and pressed as whole clusters, then fermented in new and neutral French oak, acacia and stainless steel barrels as well as egg-shaped concrete fermenters.

Winemaker’s take – “A remarkable depth of flavor comes through: notes of lemon zest, honeysuckle, peach blossom, and quince are all elevated by a lovely acidity. A savory minerality layers itself among the appealing fruit flavors and hints at the complexity that will continue to reveal itself.”

Critical acclaim – From Jeb Dunnuck, who gave it a score of 95: “The wine has a Bordeaux Blanc-like vibe in its ripe lime, orange blossom, mint, and spicy wood nuances. It brings plenty of sweet California fruit and is medium to full-bodied and concentrated, with bright acidity and a great finish. Beautifully done . . . just impeccable.” 

My take – What Jeb said. Yes, it’s a tad expensive, but it’s worth every dollar.  

For more information – www.quintessa.com

Price – $54.99 at www.wine.com

RED

2022 Ron Yates Mourvèdre

The basics – The Texas High Plains fruit – it’s 100-percent mourvèdre – ages in  mostly neutral French and American oak barrels, most of them neutral.  

Winemaker’s take – “This pure expression of mourvèdre showcases the variety’s distinctive character with compelling complexity. Intriguing aromas of graphite and rich cranberry compote lead to a palate filled with flavors reminiscent of strawberry rhubarb pie, enhanced by a distinctive anise note that adds depth and intrigue. The careful oak program allows the wine’s unique terroir-driven characteristics to shine while providing structure and subtle spice.”

My take – I don’t usually feature two wines from the same producer in a blog, but this red and Yates’ sauvignon blanc were both too good to go unrecognized.     

For more info – www.ronyateswines.com

Price – $39.99 from the winery

2022 Tenuta Luce LaVite Lucente

The basics – Like its famous – and pricy – big brother Luce, it’s a blend of Tuscan merlot and sangiovese.

Winemaker’s take – “Appearing a deep ruby red, the Lucente boasts an intense bouquet of red berry fruit, wild blackberry, violets, and other floral notes. Broad and generous on the palate, with tannins beautifully-integrated into the structure, it develops tangy, aromatic fruit on the mid-palate, including dark wild berry, black liquorice, and smooth spices.”

Critical acclaim – From James Suckling, who scored it a 94: “Round and creamy, offering ripe blackberries, blueberries and hints of chocolate and cedar. Medium- to full-bodied with succulent fruit and fine tannins. Compact and focused, with good length and balance overall.” The Wine Spectator, Decanter and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate each gave it a 90.

My take – This is a superb Tuscan without the obligatory Super Tuscan price. The Luce goes for $70-plus.

For more information – www. https://www.tenutaluce.com

Price – $26.99 from www.wine.com

2022 M Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

The basics – The blend is cabernet sauvignon-centric (84 percent) with malbec (6), merlot (5) and petite sirah also in the mix.

Winemaker’s take – “Chocolate-blackberry ganache, cranberry preserves, sweet mint, black licorice, dark olive, new leather, mahogany. Palate is sleek and supple, firm, fine-grain, polished tannins, with a complex, classy finish.”

Critical acclaim – From Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, which scored it a 95: “Deep ruby-purple, it has alluring aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, dried herbs, leather and lavender, plus classy touches of oak spice. The full-bodied palate is concentrated and powerful without going over the top. It has abundant, grainy tannins, flinty streaks and plenty of refreshing acidity to carry the long finish.”

My take – It’s equal parts easy drinking and easy on the budget, certainly for a California cab.

For more information – www.mcpricemyers.com

Price – $25.97 at www.wine.com

Don’t pay the ransom. I’ve escaped!

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Yep, I’ve been off the blogging grid for awhile now. Falling on my sword here. It has been a complicated, crazy 2025 as we contemplate spending most of this year and next in France’s gorgeous Ubaye Valley, but no excuses. There’s a lot to catch up on, so, as my friend Shawn Virene, the A’Bouzy owner, is wont to say, “Giddyup!” And, speaking of Virene, whom I’ve known for 20-odd — and even — years, I’ll get back to him and his new resto in a moment.

Each of the following items deserves a blog of its own, but we’re going to be short and concise today. No, really.

2022 Bordeaux rocks!

Spec’s annual Bordeaux tasting has always been one of my favorites events of the year and the most recent one even exceeded my high expectations in large part because of the super high quality of some of the least expensive wines being showcased. One crazy standout was the Ampélia — pictured above — from François Despagne with a futures price of $15.19. No, that’s not a typo.

In 1996, Despagne had inherited the Grand Corbin-Despagne estate from his family, which has owned that storied property in Saint-Emilion for seven generations, dating back to the 1700s. Seeking a fresh challenge three years later, he and his wife Murielle bought the five hectares in neighboring Castillon where the Ampélia grapes grow in a jumble of old-vine plots. The plot was special because, at 110 meters above sea level overlooking the plateau of Saint-Philippe d’Aiguilhe, it happened to be the highest place in all of Bordeaux.

The name Ampélia is derived from the Greek Ampelos (the vine). Fresh and minerally — there’s plenty of limestone in the soil there — the wine is eminently ready to drink right now.

“It’s not a cuvee,” Despagne points out. “It’s simply the optimal quality we can get from this terroir.”

As for the vintage, it reminds of 2003 when summer temperatures also often soared of 100 degrees, producing many wines with high alcohol, low acidity and rich, bright fruit. While they may not age for long before fading, they’re going to be wonderfully enjoyable for the near term.

However, despite the heat and long periods of drought, Bordeaux enjoyed heavy spring rains and a smattering of “showers at the right time (during the growing season) for the ripeness,” said Ivanhoe Johnson, one of the famed region’s most prominent négociants. “In the grapes, there was an amazing balance between softness, freshness and concentration. I never taste a vintage like this in my life.”

And I can’t wait until these wines are on the shelf in H-town. My other favorites in the bargain range included Lacoste Borie ($30.14), Petit Ducru ($33.51), Echo de Lynch Bages ($47.82), Phelan Segur ($54.56) and D’Armailhac ($57.93). Among the big boys, the standouts for me were hardly surprising: Evangile ($307.84), Ducru Beaucaillou ($259.96), Pichon Comtesse ($243.28), Pichon Baron ($193.22) and Lynch Bages ($152.89).

Note that none of the First Growths were presented. Oh well . . .

High marks for a Texas merlot

I think everyone knows by now that I hold Texas vintner Ron Yates and his wines, both from Spicewood and his eponymous estate in Hye, in the highest esteem. On my most recent visit to the latter, I got to taste the 2021 Ron Yates Friesen Vineyards Merlot, which was recently among the five finalists for best of show for that varietal in 2024 San Francisco International Wine Competition.

No small feat that. The judges said the wine “enchants with aromas of dark cherry, vanilla, and cedar, balanced flavors of ripe berries, spice, and oak, and a lingering cherry finish.” I couldn’t agree more, and it’s only $40.99 for a bottle at ronyateswines.com.

Only three of John Friesen’s 33 acres in the High Plains are planted to merlot, a grape that hasn’t historically distinguished itself in Texas. But, if you ask Yates and also Dr. Bob Young at Bending Branch Estates, two wineries that have been especially loyal Friesen customers, nobody does it better in the vineyard.

Note that Friesen also offers his own merlot, from the 2022 vintage, priced at $55 from friesencellars.com.

The Texas Wineslinger bids adieu

Sadly for me, my great friend Russ Kane, who has written more knowledgably and passionately about Texas wines than anyone ever, has up and moved to the Atlanta suburb of Decatur, Ga., in order to spend more time with his family. At some point, however, I suspect he’ll start sniffing around Georgia’s vineyards. He simply won’t be able to help himself.

To be sure, Texas vintners are going to sorely miss Kane. Like lots of folks, I was ignorantly dismissive of what the state’s wine-growers were doing in the vineyards and cellars until Kane provided much-needed wakeup call back in 2008, my first full year as the Houston Chronicle’s wine columnist. As Yates most recently proved, we’re in the big leagues — and have been for some time.

Taste of Italy 2025

This annual gathering, sponsored by the Italian American Chamber of Commerce for a dozen years now, gets better and better. For the last several springs, I’ve had the privilege of sitting on a panel that discusses the merits of pairing Texas barbeque with Italian wines. Well, duh! Of course, anything would taste great with Ara Malekian’s Harlem Road slowed-cooked meats (harlemroadtexasbbq.com). Classically trained in some of Switzerland’s finest kitchens, Malekian, shown below, came to Texas to reinvent himself as a pitmaster. He succeeded, to say the least.

But this year we added a Mexican resto to the mix, Xalisko Cocina Mexicana in The Woodlands (xalisko.com). And guess what? Samples of chef Beatriz Martines’ inventive cuisine also worked splendidly with the Italians. Martines offers a serious wine list at Xalisko that happens to be sprinkled with excellent offerings from Italy, so she was a natural fit for the party.

If you have to pick one Italian varietal to pair with either cuisine, I always default to barbera and, no, it’s not just for the perfect alliteration. Barbera’s have never been better, but their prices still make sense.

The one we tasted in the pairing seminar, a 2022 Cerrino Barbera d’Alba, can be found at Spec’s for under $16. From the little hamlet of Trezzo Tinella, it’s bright and fruity with very nice acidity.

A subsequent Italian wines event at AOC showcased producers I had missed at the Hilton: Parvus Ager (Lazio), Cantine Briziarelli (Umbria and Montefalco) and Cantina I Vini Di Maremma, I don’t think I’ve ever attended a better tasting featuring wines that, with three exceptions, were all priced under $20. And the others were under $40. Bravo!

And get a load of this super-cool “box” wine from Briziarelli. It’s indeed made of cardboard with a liner inside. But none are in the U.S. yet.

A gathering of eagles

I rarely wear ties anymore, even at black-tie events, and long pants make me uncomfortable. But a recent invitation to join an august, historic group of local wine mavens for a private dinner at the Club Marigold forced me to put on grownup clothes.

“Gotta wear a tie,” my host, Pete Creasey, said.

Houston’s Seventh of April Club dates to 1964. Why the name? It seems the founders couldn’t come to any agreement on same so they opted to go with the date of their first gathering. The one I attended was No. 548 in the series. Chef Austin Waiter’s edgy, French-accented cuisine paired splendidly with the six wines members contributed from their personal cellars, starting with a 2017 Y de Chateau d’Yquem, the exquisite dry sibling the most famous of all Sauternes, and finishing with a “sticky” Chateau Guiraud Sauternes from the 2009 vintage paired with that gorgeous confection shown above.

In between, we shared the 2018 Aubert Eastside Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay, the 2000 Cuvee Mon Aieul Châteauneuf-du Pape and the 2012 Sine Qua Non Stein Central Coast Grenache. Yessir, I liked hanging with these guys. Sure hope they invite me back before another six decades passes.

California dreaming . . .

Becomes a reality when the aforementioned Virene, whose bubbles list at A’Bouzy may be the best in Houston — it’s certainly the best-priced — opens his new restaurant Succulent in the Regent Square space, West Dallas at Dunlavy, that was so briefly occupied by Pastore. There, Virene’s focus will be California wines, with Napa Valley’s front and center. The menu will be built on seasonal ingredients from both the West coast and the Houston area, including Virene’s family-owned Huckleberry Farms in Round Top. He’ll even be growing herbs and vegetables on the premises.

I’ve known Virene for most of the 40 years he has been in the restaurant business in Houston, starting when he was a young server at Ruggles on lower Westheimer. He adopted his aggressive wine-pricing model during his long tenure with Ibiza and Brasserie 19 and has continued to embrace same, bless him.

Event of the week

Master sommeliers Keith Goldston and Julie Dalton, colleagues in the Fertitta empire, go mano-a-mano at Vic & Anthony’s Thursday night in a pairings taste-off. They’ll each choose a wine to accompany three courses — a potato pave, king crab spaghetti and beef Wellington — and diners will pick the winner at the end of the evening. It seems a screaming deal for $200 per person, all inclusive. You can reserve one of the few remaining spots through eventbrite.com.