Gone . . . but never forgotten!

But first I wanted to salute a couple that will likely be impossible to find, both from the 2007 vintage. First, I salute the Quatro Caballos Tannat. A Houstonian had financed the project and the winemaker was José Ignacio, a rock star vigneron in his native Uruguay. The bottle had been gifted to me more than a decade ago by a colleague with the caveat that I should lay it down for a good long while. Mission accomplished. In fact, I’d completely forgotten I had it until I decided to go about reorganizing my “cellar” last week.

However, my “patience” was rewarded as the wine proved to be equal parts earthy and hedonistic – in short, a perfect expression of the grape, which first became famous in southwestern France’s Madiran AOC, then wound up being Uruguay’s star attraction. (It works pretty well in Texas, too, as you’d know if you have tasted Bending Branch’s tannat.) But, best I call tell, it’s no longer  being produced. Although Ignacio remains a prominent player in Uruguay with his Bodega Océanica, internet searches turned up no information on more recent vintages of Quatro Caballos. Too bad.

Another wine I will remember with great fondness was the 2007 Domenico Clerico Aeroplanservaj Barolo. Getting to know Clerico a few years back was both a pleasure and an honor and his wines never failed to wow me, this one included. The odd name, as I recall the story, honored his fascination as a child with making paper airplanes.

Sadly, it’s probably the last time I’ll taste a wine he crafted because this original “Barolo Boy” – the new-wave pioneers of the mid-1970s in the Langhe who changed how Barolo was made – passed away five years ago. Fortunately, the magnificent estate just outside of Monforte d’Alba carries on splendidly with Clerico’s widow and niece running the business and his protégé, Oscar Arrivabene, making the important decisions in the cellar.  

Sippin’ with Sporty

Bubbles

* Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV – A former Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo Grand Champion wine and a double gold winner in the most recent competition, its tiny bubbles offer a very big bang for the bucks. This South African gem is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay from the winery’s Robertson (no relation, dammit!) and Stellenbosch vineyards. $16.89 at Spec’s. 

White

* 2021 La Crema Sauvignon Blanc – The Sonoma-based winery, which launched in 1979 and now has significant footprints in Los Carneros, the Central Coast and the Willamette Valley, has long been famous for its pinot noirs and chardonnays, but this relative newbie in the lineup is a worthy addition. The fruit comes from the Sonoma Coast and the wine checks all the varietal’s boxes for a lovely price. $15.99 at Total Wine. (lacrema.com)

Rosé

* 2021 Domaine de Mourchon Loubie Rosé – Year in and year out, it was always among the highest scorers when my Chronicle panel convened for our annual rosé tasting. The winery is located just outside the Southern Rhone village of Seguret, one of the most beautiful in France, and what’s inside the bottle is gorgeous, too. Note that its oak-influenced sibling, the Suis Bois, was selected as France’s best rosé last year in a blind tasting conducted by one of the country’s premier wine mavens. There wasn’t enough of that one made to make it to Houston, unfortunately, but the Texas importer, Dionysus’ Douglas Skopp, was kind enough to share his final bottle with me last night. $17.69 for the Loubie at Specs (domainedemourchon.com)

Red

* 2019 Oberon Merlot Napa Valley – Syrah and zinfandel add subtle layers of flavor and texture to this spot-on superbly-priced merlot, which underwent extended maceration before going into French oak barrels (45 percent new) where it then underwent a lengthy malolactic fermentation. $18.99 at Total Wine. (obreronwines.com)   

* 2014 Ceretto Barbaresco Bernardot – I was also told to cellar this bottle for as long as I could stand it, and the payoff was worth it. Smoky and spicy with balsamic notes and a dark fruit core, it’s a fully mature wine that way over-delivers for the price. Vinous scored it a 94 and the Wine Advocate a 93, by the way. $52.50 at saratogawine.com (ceretto.com)

* 2018 Newton Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – I hadn’t tasted a Newton Unfiltered Cab in quite some time until this one arrived on my doorstep. Mey loss. This was a reference-standard wine for me in my formative (wine) years and the 2018 loudly reminded me why. James Suckling scored it a 93. $89.99 at wine.com (newtonvineyard.com)

* 2019 Turnbull Oakville Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – It’s a great wine from a great vintage and a great producer. The end. The layers of flavors and silky tannins are prolonged by a wonderfully lengthy finish. Four national critics scored it 90 or higher with the Wine Enthusiast awarding a 95. $109.99 at wine.com (turnbullwines.com)

H-town happenings

* Free tasting (tonight),Brunello di Montalcino virtual dinner (Thursday night), Italian movie night (Tuesday April 4) – Roma, 2347 University. https://bitlydeal.com/o0hlxD

* Chateau Montelena wine dinner – Thursday, April 21, at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, 5061 Westheimer. https://www.delfriscos.com/event/chateau-montelena-wine-dinner/?ref=lwe

* Katy Sip N Stroll – Saturday, April 23, at the ARK by Norris Event Center, supporting the Ballard House. $65-$95. https://www.foodandvinetime.com/events

Jock shorts

* A standing ovation is in order for my erstwhile rival and long-time friend/colleague John McClain, who’s retiring this week after a brilliant 46-year run with the Chronicle. I won’t do it here, but I could go for hours about “The General,” a for-real NFL Hall-of-Famer and a for-real kind and generous human being. God, we had some fun together, starting with when we went mano-a-mano for three seasons on the Oilers beat, me with the Post and him with the Chron. OK, we had some awful times, too (the Jerry Glanville era comes readily to mind), but no need to dwell on those. Bravo, John!  

* Meanwhile, I’m again temporarily un-retiring to cover the U.S. Men’s Clay Court Championships at River Oaks Country Club next week. Thanks to COVID-19, we’ve endured 1,084 days without big-league ball-whacking on the red clay at RO and I can’t wait to get back out there. The club hadn’t gone even a year, never mind two, not hosting the elite men since World War II, and I’d covered at least part of every River Oaks tournament from 977 through 2019. Believe me, there’s no better place on this planet to watch tennis.         

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

Other folks to follow

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com) – Sandra looks back at our recent dinner at Roma featuring Castello di Volpai’s Federica Stianti, the first winemaker to appear in person at the restaurant since before COVID-19 changed everything. Note that she’s currently in California going deep into zinfandels. Expect a report on same soon.     

* Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – Russ tells you why you MUST take his Specialist of Texas Wine class at the Texas Wine School, and how you go about taking it. The sessions have been pushed back with sessions now scheduled for April 27, May 4 and May 11 with the exam to follow on May 12. 

 * Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff, a man after my own heart, offers up his rosé touts perfectly timed for our gorgeous spring weather.

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com) – My podcast partner in crime rightfully blushes and dimples about his lovely family having received prominent mention in Wine Enthusiast story titled “Raising Kids Around Wine.”    

 

Jock shorts

* A standing ovation is in order for my erstwhile rival and long-time friend/colleague John McClain, who’s retiring this week after a 46-year run with the Chronicle. I won’t do it here, but I could go for hours about “The General,” a for-real NFL Hall-of-Famer and a for-real kind and generous human being. God, we had some fun together, starting with when we went mano-a-mano for three seasons on the Oilers beat, me with the Post and him with the Chron. OK, we had some awful times, too (the Jerry Glanville era comes readily to mind), but no need to dwell on those. Bravo, John!  

* Meanwhile, I’m again temporarily un-retiring to cover the U.S. Men’s Clay Court Championships at River Oaks Country Club next week. Thanks to Covid, we’ve endured 1,084 days without big-league ball-whacking on the red clay at RO and I can’t wait to get back out there. The club hadn’t gone even a year, never mind two, not hosting the elite men since World War II and I’ve covered at least part of every River Oaks tournament going since 1977. There’s no better place on this planet to watch tennis.