Sippin’ with Sporty, June 2023

We got the band back together last week, which is to say my Chronicle panel convened for a too-long-in-coming reunion. But this was real work like in the good old days, not an excuse to have a party. We blind-tasted our way through 36 wines and the stars of the show follow, scored as always on my 20-point scale — a maximum of 10 for quality (average score from the panelists) and 10 for value, which I assign.

2022 Kirkland Cotes de Provence Rose

Score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)

From the http://costcowineblog.com: “Nice strawberry, peach flavors with a little orange creamsicle twisted in. Light to medium in body. Crisp and refreshing; just what you want in rosé, and pairs nice with warm weather, but can go with about anything.”

From our tasters, eight of whom scored it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Fresh, with a touch of salinity. A dry classic rose.”

From me: It’s grenache/cinsault-centric (two-thirds of the blend) with syrah, carignan, tibouren, vermentino and ugni blanc playing strong supporting roles. Offers off-the-charts value in this bottle, folks

$7.99 at Costco

2021 J. Lohr South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles

19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “Deeply colored with vibrant purple and magenta hues. Varietal aromas of black cherry and fresh blueberry are accented by black tea, bergamot, and lilac. The juicy and spicy structure of this northern Rhône cultivar is lengthened and lifted by the inclusion of grenache, mourvèdre, roussanne, and viognier.”

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral nose. Ripe fruit on the palate. Chewy tannins. Delicious.”

From me: Another screaming steal at this price. Fifteen bucks? Are you kidding me?

$15 at http://jlohr.com

2022 Rouge-Bleu Dentelle Mediteranée Blanc

Score: 19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “Named after our local mountain chain, Dentelle is a fruit driven, ready to drink wine which will charm wine connoisseurs and novices alike by its elegance and approachability.”

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral and fruity. Apple and spice notes.”

From me: Rouge-Bleu, in the Sainte-Cecille AOC on the Rhone Valley floor, proved an excellent stop on my recent South of France wine tour. This bargain gem is a kitchen-sink blend of vermentino, marsanne, clairette blanc, roussanne, viognier, grenache gris, bourboulenc, grenache blanc, gros manseng, chenin blanc, muscat petits grains, carignan blanc and picpoul.

$20 at French Country Wines in Houston

2020 Greenwing Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “This vivacious cabernet sauvignon displays enticing aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, loamy earth and a hint of desert sage. The bright red berry layers are echoed on the lively palate, with supple tannins and juicy acidity framing the generous fruit and carrying the wine to a long, graceful finish.” 

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.2: “Ripe dark fruit, pronounced tannins. Spicy!”

From me: The Columbia Valley is located between the 46th and 47th parallels, the same as Bordeaux (and Burgundy). Winemaker Brian Rudin couldn’t have asked for better cabernet terroir than he’s got in the wilds of Eastern Washington.

$33.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain

18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)

From the winemaker: “This lush and alluring cabernet begins with aromas of ripe strawberry, grenadine and Bing cherry that leap from the glass, followed by notes of sarsaparilla, root spices, black licorice cinnamon and star anise. On the palate it is both luxurious and energetic, with plush tannins and ripe red berry flavors balanced by enlivening energy and sophisticated hints of cigar wrapper, granitic minerality and sweet baking spices.

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Lively nose and palate. Casis and dark berry flavors.”

From James Suckling, who awarded at score of 92: “Aromas of grated nutmeg, black and red currants and wild herbs. Full-bodied with firm tannins. Fresh acidity and ripe fruit create a pleasant dynamic on the palate. Well balanced.”

From me: Like it’s Duckhorn brethren Greenwing, it’s named for a duck. It’s also made by Rudin, who clearly has a great grasp of his great terroir.

$36.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Decoy Limited Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)

From the winemaker: “This alluring pinot noir offers vibrant aromas of red cherry and raspberry, as well as hints of savory spices and forest floor. On the palate, silky smooth tannins and refined notes of toasted French oak accentuate the lush flavors, while carrying the wine to an elegant red berry and spice finish.”

From our tasters, five of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Full-bodied, well-balanced. Should be age-worthy.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 90: “Working with vineyards from Green Valley, Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap, this wine is juicy, delicate and citrus-driven in style, laced with strawberry, pomegranate and grapefruit tones. The tannins build on the midpalate as a toasted oak accent provides lushness to the finish.”

From me: Pinots at this price point don’t get much better. But the California Decoy from the 2021 vintage didn’t do badly either, earning five scores of 9 or higher, and it’s five bucks cheaper.

$30 at http://decoywines.com

2019 Cuvaison Small Lot Arcilla Merlot Napa Valley

18.3 (9.3 quality, 9 value)

From the winemaker: “Our 2019 Merlot Arcilla is a powerhouse style of Merlot, rife with black cherry, sandalwood, coffee, and cocoa nib notes. On the palate the wine is expansive and rewards with cherry and blackberry fruit, silky tannins, and an earthy, spicy finish that is both savory and inviting. Emblematic of a cool vintage, this merlot, rooted in Arcilla clay soils, shows the richness and elegance of merlot perfectly matched to its terroir.

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Round and ripe with blackberries and mint flavors front and center.”

From me: Pay attention to the “small lot” designation. Fewer than nine cases were made so it won’t be available for long.

$70 at http://cuvaison.com

2019 Emeritus Pinot Noir Pinot Hill East

18.2 (9.2 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “Like Pinot Hill itself, this wine seems to exist on that borderline between cool coastal fog and wind and the fleeting warmth of the sun. The influence of the Pacific is echoed in the mélange of sweet and savory flavors, with aromas of ocean air and dried strawberries mingling with notions of sesame oil and sunflowers. The tannins are taut like a bowstring, providing a flexible quality that adds energy to the rich red berry flavors as they glide to a bright, soaring finish. This is a fabulous food wine that should be served just a touch warmer than cellar temperature.”

From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Rich, ripe and savory . . . Complex.”

From me: All four Emeritus pinots in the tasting — Hallberg Ranch, Pinot Hill and Pinot Hill West were the others — scored extremely well, but the East proved best. In case you’re wondering, Pinot Hill is in the Sebastopol Hills southwest of the town of Sebastopol, the coolest sub-region of the Russian River Valley.

$78 at http://emeritusvineyards.com

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars La Pressa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Los Osos District

18.1 (9 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “Sauvignon Blanc yearns to be wild, but has such extraordinary style when it is tamed. With our over 30 years of refinement, we know this sweet spot of warmer days and cool evenings nurtures balance in our wines. I am excited to return to this historic old vine source that I worked with 25 years ago, and to bring this Old World Varietal back to its graceful expression.”

From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Bright and lively with expressive minerality and acidity.”

From me: Fiddlehead Cellars’ Kathy Joseph, a Santa Barbara County wine-making pioneer, describes her oak-barrel-aged sauvignon blanc style as being “textural.” What it isn’t is “green.” (Which is to say New Zealand sav blanc.) Fans of the movie “Sideways” will recall Joseph conversing with Paul Giamati’s Miles character about the Fiddlehead Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc. She tells him it spent 12 months in oak. He replies, “This is good. Little hints of cloves.”

$36 at http://fiddleheadcellars.com

2019 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

18 (9 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “This is an elegant wine with earthy aromas of cassis, plum, black cherry, vanilla, oak, chocolate and a slight cola note. In the glass there are lush flavors of cherry, cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The 2019 is a structured wine with firm tannins and a chewy finish that evolves with each sip. While fruit forward upon release, this wine will reward those with the patience to lay down a few bottles.”

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Yummy blackberries.”

From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 91: “Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Lean and focused on the palate with solid depth. Dry finish. Drink now.”

From me: Jordan remains a reference-standard cab for me. After 13 years working in the winery’s cellar, Maggie Kruse made her winemaking debut with this vintage and she nailed it.

$60 at http://jordanwinery.com

H-town Happenings

Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40. http://eventbrite.com

Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com

Truly Greek, Truly Unique Wine Tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, July 13 at JMP Wines Tasting Room. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

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Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “From my colleague Nicola Perullo at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont to leading sommelier and author Pascaline Lepeltier in New York City, wine thinkers across the world are trying to forge a new language — a new dialectic — to describe the tasting experience. If ever the twain were to meet, I doubt they would agree on much — except for one thing: the hegemony of the 20th-century tasting note (and score) must be disrupted for Westerners to continue to evolve as tasters . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “About a week ago, Austin-based Denise Clarke and her Texas Fine Wine wineries had another of their quarterly Talk and Taste sessions on Zoom. This one was “Summer Sippers” and offered wine suggestions for quenching our summertime thirst. And, it couldn’t have come at a better time as in Houston we are moving into the 100-102 F range and in the hill country temperatures are blazing at 105-107 F… It’s bloody hot all over the state, if you ask me. Check out these four “Summer Sippers”, a quench from Texas Fine Wine . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “I am out of town again this week, first in San Diego as a wine judge for the Critics Challenge and then to Austin for another basketball tournament. As I usually do when I am out of town, I revisit a Sundays Are For Sebastian, our fourteen-year-old soon-to-be sophomore in high school(!). This one comes from four years ago when he was ten . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “And just Iike that – it’s June. School is out. Thank God! And I swear it seems that EVERYONE is on vacay! I definitely need to join them. If you’re headed out to Texas Wine Country, there are plenty of fun events. In fact, I need to give a special shoutout to Texas wineries. Their wines performed amazingly well as last month’s 2023 TEXSOM International Wine Awards, taking home 168 awards. Texas wine continues to shine . . .”

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