WHITE

2022 Goosecross Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley

From the winemaker: “The nose on this wine features lime zest and orange blossom to bring you a bit of a tropical feel. On the palate, fresh apricot and stone fruit tangle with notes of lime zest, honeydew melon and lemongrass providing nice structure and acidity. A long, lingering finish expresses a hint of minerality giving the wine complexity and a bold freshness.”

From me: Goosecross owners Christi and Dave Ficelli, living the dream in Yountville, are blessed to have had the widely traveled Kiwi, Bill Nancarrow, in their cellar. He has worked on four continents and made his reputation in Napa Valley as the assistant winemaker at Duckhorn before taking over as the top guy at Paraduxx.

Goosecross sits in Yountville, California in the heart of the Napa Valley.  The winery’s history dates back four decades and now is owned by Christi and Dave Ficeli.  They fell in love with Goosecross years ago and always wanted to make it their own.  Christi and Dave met while working in the wine industry in Modesto, California almost twenty years ago which started their love for wine and even more importantly, each other. When they married, they knew they wanted to eventually have a small family winery that they could pass down from one generation to the next.

$26.99 at http://wine.com

2022 Landmark Vineyards Damaris Reserve Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “It’s a blend from the Flocchini Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap AVA and the Kiser Vineyard in the Western Sonoma Carneros AVA. The ever-present cooling winds of the San Pablo Bay dictate the climate for a moderately cool and highly desired long growing season. The combination of clone, climate and, ultimately, harvest-time decisions allow the chardonnay fruit for this blend to develop fully mature flavors while maintaining fine balance and acidity.”

From me: Talk about your history. Landmark was founded in 1974 by Damaris Deere Ford, whose great-great-grandfather invented the steel plow. The Landmark name? That was what the family called their home on the Bermuda coast, an imposing edifice that was often the first structure 18th-century European sailors would see as they approached land for the first time in weeks. In the early 1990s, Helen Turley took these wines to another level, pressing whole clusters, fermenting with native yeast strains and aging in French oak. To be sure, there has been no drop-off in quality under the expert guiding hand of current winemaker Greg Stach.

$50 at http://landmarkwine.com

2022 Archery Summit Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “It’s a captivating blend of floral notes, crushed seashells and zesty lime. Its scintillating acidity and finely textured white grape skin tannins lead to a succulent, precise finish with hints of chalky minerality. This stunning wine is perfect for savoring now or aging for a decade. Pair it with lobster risotto for a delightful contrast or sole meunière to highlight its delicate floral and citrus flavors.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “This elegant chardonnay’s European butter, lemon pound cake and toasted hazelnut aromas are guaranteed to trigger hunger pangs. The wine’s lemon custard flavor and texture are equally creamy with additional flavors of lemon verbena and salty Marcona almonds.”

From me: With his reputation already established at Pine Ridge Vineyards in Napa Valley, which he founded in 1978, winemaker Gary Andrus reinvented himself in the Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills, bringing Archery Summit on line in 1993. The challenges of pinot noir had turned his head, but he’s no slouch with chardonnay either, obviously.

$75 at http://archerysummit.com

2022 Viticcio Toscana Vermentino

From the winemaker: “Our white wine expresses all of the fresh aromas and nuances of vermentino grapes grown by the sea. Its intense white floral scents are lightly accompanied with fruity hints of pear and pineapple, and on the palate it presents a balance of savory, mineral flavors, leaving the mouth feeling refreshed and clean.”

From me: This Tuscan producer, best known for its Chianti Classicos, has been delivering the goods at great prices since the mid-1960s. The vermentino grapes grow in Maremma, hard by the Adriatic Sea and ideally suited for the varietal.

2021 Goose Ridge Vineyards g3 Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “Well-structured with ample richness and depth accented by aromas of toasted oak and tobacco. Flavors of cherry and plum coalesce with hints of baking spice for a long, satisfying finish. The smooth, integrated tannins pair well with rich cuts of beef or wild game.”

From me: The family patriarch, “Monsy” Monson, was a cattle rancher and so was his son Arvid. But Arvid’s kids convinced him to plant an apple orchard followed by a cherry orchard, and that led to putting grapevines in the ground on a special piece of property now called Goose Gap. With initial expertise provided by Dr. Walter Clore, arguably the father of the Washington wine industry, the enterprise took on a life of its own. Some 2,000 acres are now under vine on a hill adjacent to Red Mountain. In 2021, Goose Gap became the state’s 19th AVA.

$15 at http://gooseridge.com

2021 Viña Cobos Corte Cocodrilo Malbec

From the winemaker: “Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend assembled in a Bordeaux style to complement the fruit, achieving optimal texture and flavor.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 94: “Plenty of flowers on the nose with subtle plums and berries that follow through to a full body with firm and silky tannins that are velvety and polished. Juicy and fruity at the end.”

From me: Paul Hobbs, already a famous name in Napa Valley, embraced Argentina’s Mendoza region in the mid-1980s and became a founding partner in Viña Cobos, a winery that played a leading role in establishing Mendoza as world-class terroir. This delicious, classically “Hobbsian” Bordeaux-style blend of cab (61 percent), cab franc (24) and malbec is made from Uco Valley and Lujan de Cujo fruit.

$37.99 at http://wine.com

2021 Villa Antinori Toscana

From the winemaker: “The nose is intense, intriguing and presents fruity notes of black cherries and plum jam together with hints of boxwood, tobacco, and vanilla. The palate is mouth filling with supple, velvety tannins sustained by outstanding freshness and pleasant sapidity.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “Cherry, pomegranate and plum aromas and flavors are the main themes in this dense red, punctuated with loam, spice, mineral and wild rosemary notes. Harmonious and solidly built, this picks up steam through the long, fruit- and savory-infused aftertaste.”

From me: The Antinoris have been in the wine business through 26 generations since the late 14th-century. Yep, they’ve got the drill down. This bargain red, long a staple of mine, is a sangiovese, cab, merlot and syrah blend.

$21.99 at http://wine.com

2022 Bruno Rocca Fralu Langhe Nebbiolo

From the winemaker: “Bright ruby red in color. Notes of intense raspberry and black cherry on the nose and palate. A well-balanced wine with lingering tannins.”

From me: Just last week I had a special dinner with Bruno, his daughter Luisa and her brother Francesco’s 3-year-old son Giovanni. I’ve been a huge fan of the Rocca wines since long before I knew any of the current Roccas, whose family had been growing grapes in Barbaresco since the mid-1800s. Bruno Rocca’s name first appeared on a bottle of the 1978 vintage, just as the Langhe region and the nebbiolo grape began playing to international acclima. At 73, Bruno still keeps busy, to be sure, but Francesco is taking the reins in the cellar. A new chapter beckons.

$42.99 at http://wine.com

Updated Sept. 23

The last couple of weeks have been bountiful ones on the wine front. I’ve crossed paths with special old friends — Chateau Montelena, the Paul Hobbs wine family and Villa Antinori most prominent among them — but I also encountered a bunch of new ones: a super special family of Cavas, gems from the Cotes de Bordeaux, Mendoza malbec blends and several superbly priced Barolos, Barberescos and Barberas. In short, life has been good during what’s normally a slow time of the wine year.

If they’re available for purchase either in Houston or on line, you’ll be reading about my favorites in my September “Sippin’ with Sporty” post, so I won’t go into detail today except to share a few thoughts about each of the producers that turned my head.

First, my longtime acquaintances . . .

Chateau Montelena — Not sure there’s anything to say about this iconic winery, shown above, that you don’t already know, but here’s a little personal history. The first case of any single wine I ever purchased was the 1987 Estate Cabernet, which earned 98 points from Robert Parker as a recall. And I probably paid less than $40 per bottle. Today, the 2019 sells for $200, worth every dime but a little out of my price range these days — just as, frankly, that case was in 1990. The 2021 Chardonnay ($75 at http://montelena.com) and 2023 Sauvignon Blanc ($50) were drinking splendidly, too, and should be on shelves around town.

Villa Antinori — Speaking of iconic producers, there are no more famous names than Antinori in the whole world of wine. The business, which dates to the 14th century is now run by the Marchese Piero di Antinori’s daughter Albieri, with lots of help from her sisters Allegra and Alesssia. I’ve had a breakfast — sans wine, sadly — with the Marchese at the Granduca Hotel when he came to Houston in 2014 to present his twice-champion Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore at the Rodeo’s Best Bites competition. I also enjoyed a dinner at Damian’s (yes, RIP) with Alessia, an art lover — it runs in the family — whom I then took to the Menil Collection and the Cy Twombly Museum. Splendid family.

Paul Hobbs — Like Bo Barrett at Montelena, Hobbs is a certified California legend. But, unlike Barrett, who stayed close to home, Hobbs has expanded his wine-making reach to eight other countries. A first trip to Argentina in 1988 marked the beginning of a South American winemaking adventure that carries on today with his wines from Viña Cobos in Mendoza, which I recently tasted for the first time in a long time at AOC. Mostly malbec-centric, of course, they’re terrific and offer superb value. Hobbs route to global fame began more than four decades ago when Robert Mondavi picked him for the team that launched Opus One. Today, in addition to Paul Hobbs Winery and Crossbarn in California and Viña Cobos, he’s front and center with Crocus of Cahors in France, Yacoubian-Hobbs in Armenia and Alvaredos-Hobbs in Spain’s Galicia and Hillick & Hobbs, which focuses on Finger Lakes riesling. The latter closes a circle because Hobbs hails from Upstate New York.

My recent eye-opening discoveries . . .

Bava, San Silvestro, Trediberri — You know you’re living right when Piemontese producers keep showing up on your doorstep. I’ve spent more time in the Langhe and environs than any wine region save for Napa Valley, but none of these were on my radar when I received invitations to tastings. Bava, which goes back 100 vintages, makes extraordinary ageworthy Barberas. I zoned in on the terrific Pianoaltos from Nizza in the Asti neighborhood, tasting all the way back to the 2011 vintage thanks to my friends at AOC. San Silvestro, steeped in four generations of winemaking tradition, is based in Novello in the heart of Barolo country but also makes a lovely Barbaresco. You’ll find Trediberri near La Morra. It’s the new kid in the bunch, having released its first vintage in 2011.

Gramona — The current owners represent the fifth and six generations of this world-class sparkling wine producer in Spain’s Catalan, specifically the Anoia and Bitlles river basins near Sant Sadurní d’Anoia in the Alt Penedés. Of late, they left the Cava family in order to do their own thing at a higher level, using only the xarel’lo grape. They’ve got two gems priced under $30 at AOC and also a big-boy 2006 Gran Riserva Brut Cava that sells for $207.

Côtes de Bordeaux — A tasting of 10 of these off-the-beaten path wines from one of the world’s most revered regions, and presided over by Master Sommelier Guy Stout, proved equal parts fascinating and frustrating. None would sell for more than $30 according to Stout, but none are currently available in the Houston market, best I could tell. Anyway, the villages in the Côtes de Bordeaux are Blaye (the largest producer by far with 40 percent of the total production), Cadillac, Francs, Castillon and Sainte-Foy, although Côtes de Bourg works closely with the group. Regarding Cadillac, shown below, it seemed the perfect place to produce rosé, but none is made there. So, nope, no pink Cadillacs. Yeah, I know, I’m a very funny guy.

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . DeMeco Ryans and C. J. Stroud

Seeing the words “Texans” and “Super Bowl” in the same sentence no longer sends us convulsing in laughter. The rookie head coach and the rookie quarterback made extraordinary debuts last season. But the NFL, like other sports, is a “what have you done for us lately” enterprise and their debuts in 2023 will be formidable acts to follow in 2024. Stroud’s in particular. He’s coming off the best rookie season for an quarterback in modern times, and achieving the best second year seems an impossible aspiration unless he does indeed lead the Texans to a Super Bowl victory, as Tom Brady did as a second-year Patriot. That’s a very high bar.

And to . . . Frances Tiafoe and Ben Shelton

The 2023 and 2024 U.S. Men’s Clay Court champions squared off in an epic third-round match at the U.S. Open Friday with Tiafoe gained revenge for his loss to Shelton in the finals at River Oaks in April. His four-hour, five-set victory kept him alive in his bid for a first-ever major championship, but he would again be denied in Arthur Ashe Stadium, losing a grueling five-setter in the semifinals to his buddy Taylor Fritz, who instead became the first American to reach the Open final since Andy Roddick 19 years ago. It’s a pity that Shelton and Tiafoe had to face off so early in the season’s final Grand Slam, but they battled like the title was on the line. Tough guys both, with great personalities and back stories. Hope they’ll keep Houston on their 2025 calendars.

Pouring one out for . . . Johnny Gaudreau

The Columbus Blue Jackets star, who answered to “Johnny Hockey,” and his younger brother were both killed by an apparently drunken driver in New Jersey while riding their bikes — the night before their sister’s wedding. In 2017, the 11-year-veteran Gaudreau was awarded the NHL’s Lady Bing Trophy for sportsmanship and gentlemanly conduct. The seven-time All-Star was three seasons into a seven-year, $68-million contract after spending eight seasons with Calgary. He married his wife Meredith in 2021 and they have two children under the age of 2. To quote F. Scott Fitzgerald: “Show me a hero and I’ll write you a tragendy.” What an horrific, heartbreaking story at every level.

H-town happenings

Jean-Charles Boisset Exclusives Wine Event — 6:45 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 12, at Central Market. $30. http://eventbrite.com

Serente Jazz And Wine Escapes Present “A Summer Madness of Sax” — 6 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 14, at Scott Gertner’s Rhythm Room. $45. http://eventbrite.com

2024 Houston Trap Wine Fest — 3 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 14, at Guadalupe Plaza Park. $12. http://eventbrite.com

High Value Reds From Our Cellar — 6 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 18, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com

Very Demure Wine Tasting & Evening of Conversation — 7-9 p.m. Friday, Sept. 20, at Four Seasons Bandista Bar. $15 http://eventbrite.com

Texas Wines & Small Bites Tasting — 6:30 p.m. Friday, Sept. 20, at the Brazoria County Agrilife Extension Office. $45. http://eventbrite.com

Charcuterie Class and Wine Flight Night — 7 p.m. Friday, Sept. 20, at Maggiano’s Little Italy. $50. http://eventbrite.com

The Palm Wine Dinner — 6 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 20, at The Palm. $169. http://eventbrite.com

Far Niente Wine Dinner — 7 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 24, at Mastros. $295 http://eventbrite.com

Barolo Wine Dinner with Giuseppe Luisi — 7 p.m. Wednesday, Sept. 25, at Roma. $89. 713 664-7581

Dinner With Red Wines From Our Cellar — 6 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 26, at Atkins House. $105. http://eventbrite.com

Brunello Wine Reception — 5 p.m. Friday, Sept. 27, at La Griglia. $125 http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

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Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my partner in crime and occasionally rhyme, Jeremy Parzen, above.

Friends of mine to follow:

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com 

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcie

Bubbles

Graham Beck Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “A pale silver-pink in color with aromas of raspberries, cherries and a few secondary whiffs of minerality. Fine in the mouth, with subtle red berry flavors enlivened by bright acids. Brisk on the palate, showing hints of oyster shell and fresh lavender. Flirtatious and fun, yet elegant and structured, it’s perfect for all seasons and settings.”

From Decanter, which scored it a 90: “This méthode cap classique (South African fizz made in the same way as champagne) from South African stalwart Graham Beck has a lovely creamy red fruit and apple character, with a rich mousse and brioche finish. It has a vibrant raspberry acidity and a long finish. Great value.”

From me: It’s bubbles like these that make it impossible for me to spend crazy sums for champagne. Sorry, I’m a cheapskate . . . but one with good taste!

$21.99 at http://wine.com

White

2021 WillaKenzie Estate Cuvée Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “This wine offers notes of mandarin orange, citrus blossom, crystallized ginger, marmalade and hints of yeasty sourdough. Those flavors carry onto a balanced palate that offers wonderful purity, tension and length.” 

From James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “Aromas of citrus and flowers, with a concentrated palate and bright acidity. Light- to medium-bodied with notes of sliced lemons and honeysuckle. Ends with a tangy and refreshing finish. This is an enjoyable and interesting wine that sees approximately 25% new oak.”

From me: The winery was named for the dirt — Willakenzie soil — in which vines grow. The vintner behind the finished product is Erik Kramer, a fixture in Oregon’s Willamette Valley since 2004 who, fittingly, has a degree in geology. He segued through the petrochemical industry before finding his true passion, first working harvests in Washington state, then earning a postgraduate diploma in viticulture and oenology at Lincoln University in New Zealand, where he graduated with honors. Call him both a scientist and an artist.

$38.99 at http://wine.com

2022 La Poussie Sancerre

From the winemaker: “A beautiful minerality brings a lovely character. The palate is round with a finesse offering the aromatic flavors of gingerbread, honey and peach. The finish is persistent and ends on a light and refreshing mineral note. The first notes are very fine, complex and delicate. The aromas of peaches, quince and white flowers follow. Light aeration reveals the delicate scents of exotic fruit. The minerality brings a beautiful equilibrium and harmony.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 91: “Delivers a delicious mix of fleshy lychee, lime and green apple flavors covered in a layer of fresh herbs. Shows chalky mineral and flint smoke accents that grace the salty, nicely weighted palate, which shows serious length. Drink now through 2027. 1,700 cases imported.”

From me: The vineyards where the grapes grow date to the 11th century, when the Capetians were in charge, and are located in a gorgeously unique natural amphitheater forming a nearly perfect 180-degree semicircle. The steep — 45 degrees — slopes offer ideal sun exposure, explaining the wine’s high quality.

$47.99 at http://wine.com

2021 Archery Summit Chardonnay Dundee Hills

From the winemaker: “Apricot, golden raisin, honeycomb and apple make up the fragrance of this elegant wine. The texture is remarkable, featuring the flinty, slightly waxy, basalt-kissed makeup we’ve grown to love and expect from Chardonnay grown in the appellation. The palate is layered, beginning with lemon and dried mango and leading to notes of brioche and kiwi. A juicy strand of acidity runs throughout, giving the wine a radiant quality that lights up the glass.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 93: “This has ripe tropical fruit with hints of cashews, toffee and dried herbs. Crisp and tangy palate with a medium to full body and juicy lemon pith character in the middle. Balanced and complex with a textured and peachy aftertaste.”

From me: Founded in 1993, the winery deserves much credit for making the Dundee Hills famous, and the Archery Summit team, led by winemaker Ian Burch, is all in on minimal-impact agriculture, another reason to love what’s in the bottle.

$46.99 at wine.com

2023 Vignobles Lacheteau Touraine Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “It’s fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its fresh flavor profile and vibrant character. It’s deeply aromatic, with bright notes of citrus and spring blossoms, tasters will note a pronounced, yet balanced, acidity that keeps the palate engaged with every scintillating sip.”

From me: Touraine may not be as famous as Sancerre for sauvignon blanc, but by and large there’s no appreciable drop-off in quality between the two and the wines from this sub-region of the Loire Valley generally offer better value. In this case, exceptional value.

$6.99 at Trader Joe’s

2023 Kidia Estate Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “Citrus, grass, gooseberry notes on nose. Follows through on palate. Good acidity and mouthfeel.”

From me: Vina del Pedregal, founded in the Valle del Maule in 1825 with vines imported from France, has been named Chile’s Winery of the Year by the Sommeliers Choice Awards and the 2022 vintage of this delectable sav blanc received a 95-point score in the same competition. And it costs six bucks a bottle? Ca marche, as the French would say.

$5.99 at Trader Joe’s

Pink

2023 J.Lohr Stairway Vineyard Grenache Rosé Paso Robles

From the winemaker: “Displays grapefruit and wild strawberry aromas with accents of Asian pear, guava, and Crenshaw melon. The palate is crisp yet succulent, with tangelo and strawberry hard candy flavors that transition to a refreshing finish.

From me: The chalky, rocky Stairway Vineyard earned its name because of the vertiginous slopes, in places inclining at 50 percent, in the Adelaida District. The land is at 1,500 feet in elevation and receives cool early afternoon breezes from the Pacific Ocean just 13 miles to the west, making the four acres of grenache vines, planted in 2018 and 2019, that deliver the fruit for this wine very, very happy.

$28 at http://jlohr.com

Red

2021 Trisaetum Pinot Noir

From the winemaker: “Full, firm and forceful, this is a sturdy, solid, almost blocky vintage for this estate selection. Black cherry dusted with cocoa gives the fruit a chocolatey note, and the finish resonates with a saline note derived from the high-quartz marine sediment of the AVA.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “The 40-million-year-old marine sediment soils of high-quartz sandstone and weathered bedrock on Ribbon Ridge were once under the Pacific Ocean and produce wines with a darker fruit profile and spice notes of nutmeg and clove.  The sandy soils of the Ridge generally produce wines with more structure and greater aging potential.  The 2021 Ribbon Ridge was fermented with 38 percent whole-clusters and aged in 25 percent new French oak barrels.”

From me: Given that his undergraduate and masters degrees were earned in exercise physiology and that he also has an MBA, James Frey seems to have been an unlikely candidate to become both a winemaker and an abstract expressionist painter. But today he is both. Chasing a dream, he and his wife Andrea bought land outside of McMinnville in 2003 and the rest is history. Not having gone to school for wine, James Frey essentially taught himself, although he received much-appreciated help from Oregon’s Josh Bergström and Burgundy’s Jacques Lardiere. The name Trisaetum is an amalgam of James and Andrea’s two children, Tristen and Tatum.

$60 at trisaetum.com

2020 Tenuta Sallier de la Tour

From the winemaker: “Arguably the most well-known grape from Sicily, Nero d’Avola is perfectly suited for the island’s terroir given its ability to thrive in saline-rich soils and maintain its acidity in the heat. Low yields guarantee a high quality and concentrated harvest. Choosing to age wine partly in wood and partly in steel tanks, allows the wine to display the fresh and fruited notes of a young wine as well as elegant, spicy and licorice aromas of wines with more aging potential.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “A firm and lightly chewy nero d’avola with earth and spice and some mushroom undertones. Medium body, solid tannins and a fresh, savory finish.”

From me: In 2008, Filiberto Sallier de La Tour approached his cousin, Alberto Tasca, with the idea of joining Sallier de La Tour with the renowned Tasca d’Almerita family of wineries. Alberto readily agreed, having long been impressed with his cousin’s passion and the family’s deep ties to their own land.This tasty wine is the end result of a win-win partnership.

From me: $17.99 at http://wine.com

There’s always something new to learn about wine, from the nuances of terroir to cellar technology to the consequences of climate change. And, the more you know, the more you realize how little you know. I’m reminded of this almost weekly. Most recently, my world got a little larger when Sergio Sabater dropped by BCN Taste & Tradition to taste a group of us on the marvelous wines of Abadia Retuerta (http://abadia-retuerta.com) and speak about the 1,717-acre property (shown above) less than two hours north of Madrid on the Duero River, where the winery and its stunning hotel-spa-restaurant, housed in the 12th-century Santa Maria de Retuerta abbey, are located.

The engaging Sabater (pictured below) has an easy job as Abadia Retuerta’s American sales manager. These wines sells themselves at first sip and Sabater’s video tour of the five-star Abadía Retuerta Le Domaine, housed in the 12th-century Santa Maria de Retuerta abbey, pictured above, made me want to hop on the next flight to MAD. In a word, wow!

The reason for Sabater’s visit was to spread the word about the winery’s decision to dramatically expand the distribution of its single-vineyard wines in the U.S. market come fall, having earned its own denominaciones de origen protegidas, or DOP — formally separated from the surrounding Ribera del Duero in 2022 after eight years of arguing — and finally winning — its case with the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. The DOP designation, of course, guarantees a wine’s origin from singular soil, climate and geographical conditions.

“We are incredibly proud because the DOP designation represents the culmination of more than two decades of work by our team at Abadía Retuerta to study and restore this outstanding terroir, and make wines that reflect the personality of the estate and the Duero Valley,” Enrique Valero, Abadía Retuerta’s CEO explains. “We’re thrilled to make our single vineyard wines more widely available, particularly as many of our latest releases will allow U.S. wine lovers to uncover the distinctive personality that is only possible by making wine at the pago level.”

And, to quote from a winery press release because I can’t provide the facts with any more clarity:

“Abadía Retuerta is situated at higher elevations surrounded by old-growth forests that naturally support cooling influences and some of the most unique viticultural conditions and organoleptic attributes in the Duero region. Wine consultant Pascal Delbeck and winemaker Ángel Anocíbar have isolated key aromatics such as balsamic, pine and herbs in Abadía Retuerta wines associated with distinct sites and their natural surroundings. Climate and soil studies led by Delbeck and Anocíbar further reveal a stunning diversity of microclimates and soils within the estate that support an extensive varietal range.”

How extensive? No fewer than 25 varietals grow among the 54 plots covering the 500 acres that are under vine on the estate. (An on-site lab conducts ongoing studies of how climate change is impacting each and selflessly shares what it’s learning with vinters around the world.) To be sure, tempranillo remains the focus, representing 75 percent of the annual harvest, but cabernet and syrah make up a not-insignificant 10 percent each.

Again, quoting the press release: “The terroir of the four most acclaimed plots in Abadía Retuerta (Negralada, Garduña, Valdebellón, and Petit Verdot) reveals a perfect balance of soil, microclimate and variety.” Abadía Retuerta will release these top pago wines in fall 2024, each designated by the name of a specific vineyard, including the Pago Negralada, which is all tempranillo; the Pago Valdebellón, all cabernet; the Pago Garduña, all syrah;” and the Petit Verdot.

Winery visitors can taste wines made from every varietal, which Sabater insists “is an amazing experience, one you will never forget. It’s going to make you want to stay in the Abbey, no matter what the price is.”

No two ways about it, the place is #fancy with double rooms starting at around 600 euros per night, breakfast and spa access included. But diners at BCN (http://bcnhouston.com) can sample the delightful 2022 L’Domaine Blanco de Guarda, a crisp, creamy sauvignon blanc with a bit of verdejo in the blend, for $140 and the robust, layered Pago Negralada for $220. BCN’s GM/Sommelier Paco Calza includes both among his personal touts on the wine list.

The former, Calza writes, is “full of intense aromas of honey, ripe peach, ginger and floral notes that open up onto a soft, mouth-filling palate with exotic citrus, grapefruit and apple fruit flavors.” The latter? “Deep, rich, and intense nose with hints of violets to the ripe, compact blackberries, chocolate, cigar box and grilled herbs. Juicy and concentrated on the full-bodied palate with fine, dusty tannins.”

A non-Pago library wine, the 1996 Cuvee Palomar, most rocked my taste buds. I’m hoping Calza can rustle up another bottle or two of that gem, from the first vintage release after the winery was completed in 1995. Otherwise, I’ll just have to crack open the piggy bank and make my way to Abadia Retuerta, which, to be sure, is now front and center on my bucket list of wine regions to visit before I die.

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Simone Biles

Among women gymnasts, she’s the undisputed GOAT and one of the greatest athletes ever that we Houstonians can claim as one of our own. With three more golds plus a silver in Paris, running her Olympics medal count to 11, she put her Tokyo nightmare of three years ago completely behind her, proving she is as resilient as she is fearlessly resolute, attempting routines that none of her rivals would dare try. And Biles scored major bonus points in my book by saying in a social media post how much she loves her “black job.” Take that, Trump.

H-town happenings

Il Borro Wine Dinner — 6:30 p.m. Friday, Aug. 9, at Maggiano’s Little Italy. $95. http://eventbrite.com

Wines for H-Town Hurricanes — 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 15, at The Rado MKT. $30. http://eventbrite.com

Cheers for Charity — 4-7 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 17., at Red Oak Ballroom Norris Meetings & Event Center. $65-$125. http://eventbrite.com

Summer Lovin’ Wine Dinner — 7 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 22, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $175. http://eventbrite.com

Summer Flight School — 7 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 22 at Barcelona Wine Bar. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Aperitivo Italiano: Piedmont and Sardinia — 5 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 27, at the Italian Cultural and Community Center. $30. http://eventbrite.com

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

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Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above. A new one will drop soon as soon as we both have our feet back on the ground in H-Town. Fingers crossed we can knock out another one this week!      

Friends of mine to follow:

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) — The Texas Wineslinger’s latest post focuses on a  blind tasting of sparkling wines in which I happily participated. Many of the entries were from Texas, too, and they acquitted themselves very well. My high-scorer (93 points) from our neck of the woods was the method traditonelle Blanc de Blancs from Heath Sparkling Wines (http://heathsparkling.com). Fittingly, the Fredericksburg winery, part of the Grape Creek family, is the first in Texas to focus solely on bubbles. Four of the six tasters gave it at least a 90. My top score (94 points) overall went to Matthew Massey’s Madame Zéro Rosé, also the overall champion among 21 sparklers. The Heath sells for $55.59 at http://heathfamilybrands.com. Massey’s pink champagne is $84.99 at http://madamezero.com.     

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com 

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcie

Bubbles

Gérard Bertrand An 825 Crémant de Limoux Brut

From the Winemaker: “A beautiful, golden yellow color. Complex, aromatic nose revealing hints of white flower, with hints of honey, green apple and toast. Crisp, elegant structure on the palate, where the fine texture of the bubbles complements the wine naturally.”

From me:

$19.99 at http://wine.com

Yamhill-Carlton Brut Rosé

From the Winemaker: “Aromas of strawberry shortcake, canned pear, white peach, lightly toasted broiche, and rose petals. The palate flirts with tangerine, kumquat, nectarine on the finish with warm watermelon rind and lemon meringue pie. Balanced fatness and acidity on the texture, vibrant and exceptionally clean all the way through to the finish, phenomenally precise.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 94: “That rare domestic rosé that captures the vibrant acidity of Champagne, offering delicate strawberry, raspberry flavors laced with steely minerality and sprinkle of graham cracker on the finish.”

From me: This captivating chardonnay (57 percent) pinot noir blend from the Willamette Valley would pass for a classic pink champagne in any blind tasting.

$59.99 from http://wine.com

Madame Zéro Brut Rosé
From the Winemaker: “The wine is light pink salmon color and maintains a fine mousse with a ribbon of fine, delicate, precise bubbles. Aromatics of fresh berries, floral aromas and notes of citrus delivering a beautiful impression of freshness. On the palate, a refreshing expression of blood orange citrus front palate that progresses into a medley of fresh berries with pronounced notes of freshly picked wild strawberries, pomegranate and raspberry.  Fresh minerality and exceptional balance makes for a an extremely clean, elegant finish.”

From me: The man behind this gem, Galveston-born Matthew Massey, has become a good friend so it’s hard for me to be objective. But in a recent fully blind tasting of 22 sparkling wines, I gave it 94 points, my highest score.

$84.99 at http://madamezero.com

WHITE

2023 Flora Springs Soliloquy

From the Winemaker: “Anchored by sauvignon blanc (85 percent), notes of honeysuckle prevail. Malvasia introduces tart apple and orange blossom to the palate and hints of chardonnay weave citrus highlights throughout. In an attempt to preserve the thumbprint of this treasured fruit source, the fruit is whole-cluster fermented in it’s natural yeast. This technique also means there is no inoculated yeast present in the wine. This gives the wine a freshness and a zesty finish, the perfect summer evening accompaniment to lighter dishes.”

From me: Flora Spring’s Trilogy, a cab-centric blend, has always been one of my reference-standard reds from California. Now I can say the same about the Soliloquy with its backbone of a sauvignon blanc clone that grows only in the winery’s Crossroads Vineyard in the Oakville AVA.

$70 at florasprings.com

Gérard Bertrand Trouble Cloudy Wine

From the Winemaker: “On the palate it offers a meaty, velvety texture, coating the palate in succulent softness. Exotic fruit aromas explode on the palate, with juicy mango, pineapple and fresh lychee notes. The wine has impressive aromatic intensity, enhanced by delicate floral touches. The tart, lingering finish ensures a subtle balance. Bouquets of mango, pineapple and lychee, with hints of lime and blood orange.”

From me: The cloudiness in this fresh, fruity blend of chardonnay (60 percent), grenache blanc (20) and viognier, is due, of course, to the lees not being filtered. I can’t imagine a more perfect poolside sipper for summertime in H-town.

$25.99 at gerard-bertrand.shop

2022 Amici Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County

From the Winemaker: “Aromatics of this incredibly floral wine begin with notes of jasmine, snap pea, and orange flowers. The intense aromas are met with ripe Meyer lemon, lively passion fruit, and hints of kiwi on the palate. This classic Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc shows wonderful acidity with bright and precise notes of lime juice on the long, mouthwatering finish.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “Very crisp and clean white with sliced apple, lemon and melon with phenolic tension and texture. Layered and flavorful. Creamy. Seriously delicious.”

From me: Amici’s winemaker Tony Biagi, a for-real Napa Valley legend, knows his way around a cellar and a vineyard. His sauvignon blancs, such as this one, are among the best I’ve ever tasted.

$25 at http://amicicellars.com

2023 Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough

From the Winemaker: “Distinctly Marlborough with vibrant aromatics of lime, peach, nectarine, and passionfruit with a subtle hint of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. The palate is refined and elegant with a juicy core of guava, citrus zest, and sea salt. The finish is dry with the perfect balance of fruit flavors, acid, and minerality.”

From Wilfred Wong, who scored it an 88: ” Active and bright on the palate. Pair it with a tray of raw oysters topped with a squeeze of Meyer lemon.”

From me: I don’t usually gravitate toward New Zealand sav blancs, but this one turned my head and turned on my taste buds. Delicious!

$16.99 at http://wine.com

ROSÉ

2023 Olema Côtes de Provence Rose

From the Winemaker: “Made in Côtes de Provence in the village of Vidauban in a true Provence Rosé style, the 2023 Olema Rosé opens with a nose filled with strawberries and cream, lychee, and white nectarine. On the palate, it evokes the essence of the Provençal countryside, heightened by a pronounced salinity and delicate rose undertones. The palate holds a textural, mineral-rich profile, gracefully incorporating lush ripe peaches and orange blossoms, and culminates in a well-rounded finish”.

From James Suckling, who scored it a 93: “Very floral and pretty with the typical peach and orange peel aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, crisp and clean with a brightness and dryness at the end. Fun hints of cotton candy.”

From me: Biagi made this tasty rosé, too, because Olema and Amici are sister wineries, owned by Texan John Harris and his longtime friend Bob Shepard. It’s as Provençal as can be with grenache (50 percent), cinsault (10), syrah (10), carignan (10) and mourvèdre in the blend.

$!5.99 at http://winecom

2022 Stout Family Russian River Valley Rosé

From the Winemaker: “Made from Russian River Valley pinot noir, It has a brilliant pink color with fresh bright floral aromatics and flavors of strawberry and raspberry. The finish is crisp and lively.”

From me: This is the first rosé the legendary winemaker Tom Rinaldi, who helped turn Duckhorn into the behemoth it became, has made for the Stout label and it’s, in a word, delicious. Master Sommelier Guy Stout, of course, is a Houston legend in his own right. The only bad news is that production is tiny for the moment and there won’t be a 2023 because Tom and Guy couldn’t find fruit deserving of the prices being asked.

$25 from stoutwines.com

RED

2020 Domaine de Mourchon Grande Reserve

From the Winemaker: “This wine is deep purple in color with a nose suggesting spices, licorice and cooked red fruit. The palate is full bodied with elegant fruit intensity, some spice and harmonious tannins.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “Alluring and expressive, with beautiful range to the violet, plum and cherry liqueur flavors, all edged in graphite. Delivers impressive harmony and texture, with warm cedar notes rounding out the formidable palate. Reveals slightly grainy tannins that provide a firm frame. Delicious.”

From me: I’ve had every vintage of this oak-influenced grenache-syrah blend from Seguret in the Southern Rhone Valley since the first vintage came to market around the turn of the century and, through the years, the McKinlay family has become an extension of my family. Winemaker Sebastien Magnouac has been on board almost since day one and the consistency of his wines is extraordinary.

$19.95 at Spec’s

2022 Ruggero di Bardo Susumaniello

From the Winemaker: “Deep ruby red with purple shades. On the nose blueberries and ripe red fruits, underbrush and red flower, then tobacco, aromatic herbs and a light zesty sensation. Elegant and powerful, with ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, tasty and very long in persistence.”

From me: Bravo, Trader Joe’s! The chain’s partnership with the Italian D’Aquino importer always pay off with superb-value wines available exclusively at Trader Joe’s and sells for just $9.99. Like a lot of the Trader Joe’s wines, the trademark is owned by D’Aquino Italian Importing Company. It is bottled by Femar Vini , which also makes the excellent Epicuro wines for Trader Joe’s.

$9.99 at Trader Joe’s

2020 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild

From James Suckling, who scored it a 98: “Lots of violets, blackberries, bark and iodine. Oyster shell. Full-bodied. Firm and velvety tannins with a long and satisfying finish. Juicy and reserved at the end. Chewy and soft.”

From Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 95: “Another powerful, concentrated wine (with) an incredibly cabernet sauvignon-driven style. Lots of blackcurrants, liquid violets, graphite, and rocky mineral notes emerge on the nose,”

From me: Yep, very expensive. You could buy 26 bottles of the Susumaniello for the same price. But it still over-delivers for the price when you consider that its First-Growth big brother Mouton Rothschild, which earned 100 points from Suckling, Decanter and the Wine Advocate for the 2020 vintage, goes for $1,059.

$259.97 at http://wine.com

Bubbles

Segura Viudas Rosé

From the winemaker: “Defined by decisive flavors of cherry pith, grapefruit zest and grenadine, it possesses a subtle richness thanks to its refined mousse and textural complexity. A soft finish on the back of the palate gives a lovely, approachable balance to this Cava.”

From the Tasting Panel, which scored it a 93: “Strawberry and pink grapefruit perfume the glass.”

From me: A blend of 90 percent trepat — a red grape indigenous to Catalan — and garnacha, it’s made by on an estate that dates to the 11th century, although the winery didn’t open until 1959. I can’t think of a sparkling wine that over-delivers more for the price.

$8.49 at 51 Houston, next to Costco on Richmond

Rosé

2023 Reserve des Chastelles Tavel

From the winemaker: “A pure salmon pink color, this Tavel combines subtle aromas of red fruit and toasted almonds. Best as an aperitif or paired with white meat and soft cheese.”

From me: With its body and structure, this has been my sipping find of the summer. Tavel is the only appellation in the Rhone Valley which makes rosé only and the prices generally tend to reflect the famous terroir. Here’s an exception, however. It’s hard to drink better for 11 bucks.

$10.99 at Trader Joe’s

2023 Mouton Cadet Mathilde

From the winemaker: “Scintillating appearance, rather pale tea-rose pink. The nose opens on aromas of red fruit such as redcurrant and wild strawberry, followed with airing by raspberry and a hint of pink grapefruit. A fruit-forward attack on redcurrant and raspberry leads into a nicely balanced mid-palate lifted by fresh citrus flavors, especially grapefruit, while the finish reveals more floral notes reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley and violet.”

From Decanter, which scored it a 91: “Very promising nose, displaying scents of dried thyme, tomato leaf, white peaches, raspberry and orange zest. Vibrant, with some weight.”

From me: Baron Philippe de Rothschild introduced Mouton Cadet in 1930 to bring Bordeaux wine to a wider audience than could afford his Grand Cru bottles. This more recently launched lineup honors the Baron’s grandchildren. Mathilde’s name is on the rose, which offers a satisfying range of flavors.”

$18.99 at http://wine.com

2023 Ile de Conas Le Rose

From the winemaker: “This unique Mediterranean blend is succulent with a delicate, tongue-tingly zest. Bursting with flavors, it can be served as a pre-dinner drink or paired with salmon teriyaki, zucchini, carpaccio or Mediterranean salad.”

From me: Another super steal from the Trader Joe’s lineup, this estate is Paul Mas’ first in the Languedoc. Note that the Wine Enthusiast named Paul Mas’ operation French Winery of the Year for 2021.

$7.99 at Trader Joe’s

White

2023 Mouton Cadet Nathan Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “Golden in color, with a slight ivory hue. The nose opens on citrus aromas, especially lemon and grapefruit, then with airing develops hawthorn and jasmine notes as well as a touch of fresh apricot. From a fresh attack on Kaffir lime flavors with a hint of aniseed, the mid-palate expresses the elegance of the floral notes found on the nose, leading into a finish that lingers on hints of licorice.”

From Decanter, which scored it a 90: “Lovely nose with aromas of almond blossom, linden tree, fresh cut red apple and pure lemon. Attractive richness, well-defined finish.”

From me: Nathan’s white is no less appealing than Mathilde’s pink. I’m really excited to have been introduced to these wines, made from grapes purchased from multiple growers in Bordeaux.

$18.99 at http://wine.com

2021 WillaKenzie Estate Estate Cuvee Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “Pure and energetic palate with wonderful salinity and creaminess and a long, snappy finish.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “Aromas of citrus and flowers, with a concentrated palate and bright acidity. Light- to medium-bodied with notes of sliced lemons and honeysuckle. Ends with a tangy and refreshing finish. This is an enjoyable and interesting wine that sees approximately 25-percent new oak.”

From me: The’s elegant, nuanced flavors impressed me from the first sip on. Of course, at this price, I should have been wowed, and I was.

$75 at http://willakenzie.com

2021 Malvira Roero Arneis

From the winemaker: “Lifted and fresh on the nose with notes of white blossoms and snappy fruits. On the palate, the wine gives way to stone fruits and hints of melon before finishing with a zip of refreshing acidity. The finish is clean but long and showcases this classic vintage perfectly.”

From me: Winemaker Roberto Damonte’s father Giuseppe established the winery in 1950, when the Roero region was a true backwater. But he understood the terroir’s potential and Roberto, along with his brother Massimo, have created a world-class property with 100 acres of organically-farmed vines that’s also home to a gorgeous boutique hotel, the Villa Tiboldi. The Damontes have played a significant role in saving the varietal from near extinction in the 1980s. This wine accounts for almost half of their production and most of the fruit comes from the Renesio cru, where arneis is said to have first been identified in 1478, and also the Trinita cru with its stony calcareous soils that give the wine nice minerality.

$18 at AOC Selections

Red

2019 Damilano Lecinquevigne Barolo

From the winemaker: “Ruby red in color with orange reflections. An intense bouquet with tertiary notes of rose, leather, tobacco and emerging notes of violet and tar. The palate is ample and embracing, with prevailing impressions of a soft, persistent long finish.”

From the Wine Advocate, which scored it a 93: “With fruit from Brunate, Liste, Cerequio, Cannubi and Raviole, this wine offers an appellation-wide taste of nebbiolo, and the focus, consequently, is on the grape more than any single vineyard. These kinds of blends work very well in a vintage like 2019 that holds its own in terms of balance, intensity and texture. It’s a little subdued on first nose and would benefit from more time in bottle. “

From me: Giuseppe Borgogno began growing grapes and making his own wine more than 100 years ago and his son-in-law, Giacomo Damilano, would create the modern business, now run by four grandchildren. The winery is adjacent to the one-star Michelin restaurant Massimo Camia (which you read about in my previous blog), on the valley floor below La Morra. It’s my new go-to Barolo because of the price. Again, can’t thank you enough, Trader Joe’s.

$35.99 at Trader Joe’s

2020 Rosa dell’Olmo Barolo

From the winemaker: “Following a traditional vinification process, our Barolo spends at least 18 months ageing in oak barrels, during which the tannin and extracts necessary to form its noble and long-lasting structure become richer. This is followed by a period of bottle aging. Its color is deep ruby red tending towards garnet and the bouquet is both pleasant and intense, reminiscent of withered roses and violets. On the palate the wine is dry, full, robust and austere, yet also velvety and harmonious.”

From me: I’ve tasted many better Barolos, but I’ve never tasted one this good that’s so inexpensive. A superb red wine for the price!

$15.99 at Trader Joe’s

I recently spend nine days leading friends on a tour of my favorite wine region, which included stops in two of Italy’s greatest cities, Turin and Milan. The former I knew a bit from having covered the Winter Olympics there in 2006 for the Houston Chronicle. The latter was largely a blank canvas for me because, when I’m in Europe, I generally go to extreme lengths to avoid major traffic-choked metropolitan areas.

Why? Because I live in one in Texas. Enough is enough.

However, you may now call me a fan of Milan. It was a crazy weekend to be there, on what amounted to Italy’s Fourth of July, but the weather was perfect — fairly cool, no smog, no clouds — and the energy was off the charts. The Galleria shopping area (pictured above) was teeming with celebratory folks, the bars were jammed and the ubiquitous fashion boutiques were all open. I could have shopped til I dropped except for the price tags on the stuff I was drooling over. I mean, who spends $5,500 on a sports coat even if it’s a Brunello Cucinelli? Pas mois.

Anyway, since this is a wine-and-food-centric blog, I’m going to keep it simple and share links to those spots that deserved a five-star rating. Pretty much every place we wined and dined did, too. Chronologically:

Contesto Alimentare, Turin — From the Michelin guide, which gives it “Bib Gourmand” status: “Situated on the central Via Accademia Albertina, this small, simple and unfussy restaurant with small tables set close together serves top-quality Piedmontese cuisine. Alongside its delicious regional specialities, the menu also features dishes from elsewhere in Italy, including Sicily. The tajarin pasta made from 40 egg yolks and served with a veal ragu is superb, as are the rabbit and pork belly dishes. There’s a focus on meat options, followed by some delicious desserts, which include specialities from Piedmont such as panna cotta and typical bacio di dama biscuits.” contestoalimentare.it

Ristorante Savure, Turin — We learned all about pasta making here, then ate more great pasta than I thought possible in a single seating. In effect, we had six main courses, all of them excellent. Better still, it’s amazingly inexpensive considering the quality. https://www.savure.it

Caffè Gelateria Pepino, Turin — Opened in 1884, when it was given a royal warrant to supply the House of Savoy, it claims to be the oldest gelateria in Italy and the setting on the Piazza Carignano is perfect. The gelatos are sublime, of course, and a full bar adds to the appeal. A special treat was Amista Vermouth (you read about same in my last posting) over a scoop of vanilla. Mama mia! Pepino is also famous for inventing the Pinguino, gelato on a stick covered in chocolate. gelatipepino.it

Le Quattro Stagione, Saluzzo — Although I didn’t personally dine with my group here, some felt this was the best restaurant experience they had over the entire tour. Dreamy Saluzzo is in the foothills of the Alps just below Monte Viso and the resto, set in an historic 17th century building, checks all the boxes, especially for value. I’ll be dining there the next time I’m in Italy, guaranteed. http://ristorante4stagione.com

Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Dogliani — A superb producer founded by Luigi Einaudi, who was elected the first president of the Italian Republic after World War II, the winery’s magnificent hilltop site also includes a lovely boutique hotel, the Relais Luigi Einaudi (shown above). I can’t think of a more beautiful, well-situated place to stay while exploring the Langhe. The tasting room offers to floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the grounds and the surrounding vineyards. poderieinaudi.com 

Locanda del Sorriso, Dogliani — Dogliani, with its gorgeous cathedral, is a seriously underrated town in the Langhe, and this gorgeous resto proved to be a terrific find. Sorriso means “smile” and we did plenty of that while dining. The wine list, of course, features the best Dogliani dolcettos. lalocandadelsorriso.com

Ceretto, San Cassiano — I’ve been friends with the Cerettos since the mid-1990s and have witnessed their remarkable evolution through the years. While the wide range of wines have always spoken for themselves, the modern tasting room with its “Grape” overlook is second to none, as is the tasting experience. And you can buy everything on site, including some rare single-vineyard wines. ceretto.com

Massimo Camia, La Morra — Michelin gives it a star. Here’s why: “In this restaurant decorated with modern furnishings, the attention is drawn to the picture windows offering fine views of the La Morra hills and the surrounding countryside. The cuisine prepared by Massimo Camia and his daughter Elisabetta includes classic favorites from the chef’s much-loved repertoire, such as the delicious rack of lamb beautifully presented on Luserna stone and served with a barbeque sauce, as well as other elegant dishes, including a few fish options. The excellent selection of Piedmontese cheese is also worth a mention. The chef’s sommelier son Lacopo skilfully and enthusiastically guides guests through the encyclopaedic wine list which includes an extensive choice of Barolo wines and other local labels.” massimocamia.it

Ristorante Modda, Monforte d’Alba — A driving rainstorm made our arrival down a narrow pathway a bit treacherous and kept us from dining on one of the most attractive patios you’ll find anywhere, but, once inside . . . paradise found. The food was universally praiseworthy and the ambience unbeatable. modavenue.eu

Poderi e Cantine Oddero, Santa Maria — Located in a tiny hamlet with a most-impressive church below the hilltop town of La Morra (pictured above), it’s the consummate family winery, dating from 1878 when Giacomo Oddero first bottled the wines in 1878. The current winemaker, Maria Christina, was among the first women to oversee a cellar in the Langhe. Her excellent wines are sold on site, too. oddero.it

Trattoria Il Risorgimento, Treiso — While it almost qualifies as what we Texans call “a hole in the wall,” the food is first-rate and the wine list diverse. Chef/owner Gioele, who’s as local as local gets, may be soft-spoken, but he carries a big stick. We could hear him dressing down Treiso’s mayor while we were lunching because of the noise being made by the machines re-painting street lines beyond the patio. The ruckus quickly stopped. trattoriarisorgimento.it

La Piola, Alba — This is my favorite trattoria anywhere, end of conversation. Situated on the Piazza Risorgimento across from Alba’s Duomo, it offers all the Piemontese classics — the vitello tonnato, agnolotti and tajarin are my holy trinity there — and has a superb wine list to boot. Enrico Crippa, who has earned three Michelin stars for his Piazzo Duomo one floor up, oversees this kitchen, too. lapiola-alba.it

Piazza Duomo, Alba — Crippa, whose food is equal parts edible and artistic as the photo above illustrates, is one of the world’s best chefs and this stylish spot, with its Francesco Clemente mural on the pink main dining-room walls, is most-deserving of its three Michelin stars. We did a lunch there, which offered incredible value at 170 euros per person for four courses. (But Crippa’s justifiably famous salad with upwards of 50 ingredients during high season is a lunchtime add-on for 50 euros.) The Michelin Guide’s assessment: “What is obvious in every single, delicious bite is the chef’s passion for plants, with vegetables, flowers, wild and cultivated herbs harvested daily all featuring in memorable, beautifully presented dishes. The iconic appetisers featuring countless delicious ingredients are a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds alike and were particularly enjoyed by our inspectors. It hardly needs mentioning that this region is passionate about wine, so it’s not entirely surprising that the restaurant offers three different wine lists: Solopiemonte pays superb homage to the region, while Tuttoilresto (divided into two options, white and red) is a celebration of French wines. The efficient and enthusiastic serving staff succeed in taking good care of guests without being excessively formal.” piazzaduomoalba.it

Pio Cesare, Alba — The only winery located in Alba proper and also the only one allowed to produce Barolo outside of the Barolo DOCG because of its historic status, it has a magnificent cellar (shown above) split by a for-real Roman-built wall . Since 1881, five generations of the same family have presided over the Pio Cesare up through the current director, 27-year-old Federica Pio Boffa, who took over for her larger-than-life father, Pio Boffa, after he died of complications from COVID-19 in 2021. Don’t let Federica’s age fool you. She’s got the right genes. piocesare.it

Barolo Bar, Monforte d’Alba — We opted for the elevated outdoor patio across the street from the main bar, which features live music after 8:30 on Wednesday nights, and we weren’t disappointed. Owner Silvia Aiassa’s Langhe-centric wine list is expansive and the small bites were delicious. If you op to take in the tunes, you must order a full meal. Coming off the Piazza Duomo experience, that seemed a tad excessive.

La Baia di Moltrasio, Moltrasio — On the shore of Lake Como, this cozy spot with its eclectic, inventive menu proved a superb find on a night that became too windy and rainy to take our scheduled boat ride. No regrets, to be sure. They had me with the asparagus,egg and parmigiano appetizer. labaiadimoltrasio.com

Senato Caffe, Milan — This lovely wine bar in the Senato Hotel puts Franciacorta front and center, and it thereby saved us a drive to Franciacorta country, about 40 miles east of the city. Thanks to a partnership with the Franciacorta consortium, the wine list offers a superb selection of Italy’s best bubbles, which were the first in Italy to be made exclusively with a second fermentation in the bottle. Franciacorta and its 7,500 acres of vineyards of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc, has had DOCG status since 1995. senatohotelmilano.it

Marchesi 1824, Milan –– This extraordinary bakery, which has been in business since 1824, offers the best panettone I’ve ever tasted — by far — and is said to have invented this famous leavened Christmas cake (pictured above). Marchesi’s is made with raisins from Sei Corone, naturally candied fruit, Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar, Italian honey, and eggs from free-range chickens. The other pastries looked no less fabulous, too. marchesi1824.com

Locanda Perbellini, Milan — With a kitchen overseen by the highly acclaimed, Michelin-starred Veronese chef Giancarlo Perbellini, this stylish, high-energy off-shoot osteria in Milan’s fashionable Brera district offers an eclectic menu featuring classic dishes from all over Italy. The divinely creamy, perfectly textured seafood risotto blew me away. locandaperbellini.it

Il Marchese Osteria, Milan — The most beautiful stop on our culinary adventure with excellent live music to boot (at least on Saturday nights), its Roman food played to somewhat mixed revues within our group, but I’ve never had a better carbonara pasta (pictured above) anywhere. Note that its sister restaurant in Rome has a Michelin star. ilmarchesemilano.it

H-town happenings

Fireworks! Best of the ’80s covered by the Spicolis — 8:30 p.m. Thursday, July 4, at Deep Roots Vineyard in Plantersville. $24. http://eventbrite.com

Summertime UNCORKED — 2 p.m. Saturday, July 20, at Barcelona Wine Bar. $65. http://eventbrite.com

Wine Symposium — 4 p.m. Saturday, July 20, at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Cheers for Charity — 4-7 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 17., at Red Oak Ballroom Norris Meetings & Event Center. $65-$125. http://cheersforcharity2023.eventbrite.com

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above. A new one will drop soon, as soon as we both have our feet back on the ground in H-Town.     

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcie

White

2022 Landmark Vineyards Damaris Reserve Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “It’s a blend from the Flocchini Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap AVA and the Kiser Vineyard in the Western Sonoma Carneros AVA. The ever-present cooling winds of the San Pablo Bay dictate the climate for a moderately cool and highly desired long growing season. The combination of clone, climate, and, ultimately, harvest timing decisions, allow the chardonnay fruit for this blend to develop fully mature flavors while maintaining fine balance and acidity.”

From me: The late Damaris Deere Ford, the great-great-granddaughter of the tractor magnate John Deere, founded the winery in the Sonoma County foothills of the Mayacamus mountain, half-century ago, and the first Damaris was released 14 years later, in 1988, as an homage to her. Classically Californian in style, it has been presented at White House dinners under three presidencies.

$50 at http://landmarkwine.com

Red

2019 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “The cabernet from this vineyard ripens early with excellent color, purity of fruit, and phenolic maturity. Adding the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire to the blend brings dense savory elements, while a small amount of Malbec contributes bright fruit notes to the finish.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 95: “Nearly opaque in the glass, this luxury-level bottling lays all of J. Lohr’s extensive tools on the table, and succeeds with an intense, complex package. Aromas of dark fruit, densely packed flowers, cocoa and coffee leads from the nose into a palate wrapped in expertly polished tannins. They’re firm, but relent at the right time to allow cassis, graphite and cappuccino flavors to shine.”

From me: Jerry Lohr also founded his eponymous winery in 1974, a very good year it would seem. (My wife Debbie and I will be celebrating our 50th anniversary, too, in June!) Lohr planted his first vines in Monterey in 1972 and followed suit in Paso Robles in 1986. Today J. Lohr has more than 4,000 acres under vine in Monterey’s Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands appellations, Paso Robles, and St. Helena in the Napa Valley. This big, expressive cab is the family’s flagship and never fails to deliver the goods. If anything, it’s underpriced.

$100 at http://jlohr.com

2020 Sallier de la Tour Nero d’Avola Sicilia

From the winemaker: “Arguably the most well-known grape from Sicily, Nero d’Avola is perfectly suited for the island’s terroir given its ability to thrive in saline-rich soils and maintain its acidity in the heat. Low yields guarantee a high quality and concentrated harvest. Choosing to age wine partly in wood and partly in steel tanks, allows the wine to display the fresh and fruited notes of a young wine as well as elegant, spicy and licorice aromas of wines with more aging potential.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Firm and lightly chewy with earth and spice and some mushroom undertones. Medium body, solid tannins and a fresh, savory finish.

From me: Located on the outskirts of Palermo in the Alto Belice, where the Monte Jato archaeological park presents structures built by the ancient Greeks, Sallier de la Tour has itself been around for more than a century with the La Monaca winery having been completed in 1909. The modern era began in 2008 when Filiberto de la Tour approached his cousin, Alberto Tasca, with the idea of joining forces with the renowned Tasca d’Almerita family of wineries.Under the current manager, Costanza Chirivino, the winery farms all its grapes sustainably.

$16.99 at http://wine.com

2022 G. D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba

From the winemaker: “Lively purple red in color, the nose opens with loads of raspberry and blackberry, purple flowers and a reminiscence of dark fig. The palate is juicy yet fragrant, with enticing and thirst-quenching red and purple fruits.”

From the Wine Advocate, which scored it a 90: “Nicely concentrated with dark cherry fruit, blackberry and cinnamon-like sensations from the grape skins. With that extra density comes extra fruit weight and a powerful (15 percent) alcohol content. The wine does carry muscle for sure, but the results are firm and tight.”

From me: Another wine from an historic winery. The Vajras have farmed Bricco delle Viole, the highest cru in Comune di Barolo, since the 1880s. At the age of 15 — yes, 15 — Aldo Vajra took over the estate in 1968 and by 1971 had acquired the first organic certification in the region, then subsequently created private biotype selections of nebbiolo and dolcetto, pioneered the renaissance of the nearly vanished freisa varietal and began cultivating Rhine riesling.

$26.99 http://wine.com

2019 Zenato Alanera Rosso Veronese

From the winemaker: “Brilliant ruby in color, theAlanera delights the senses with a variety of aromas and flavors that include fresh and dried cherries and prunes, sweet spice, and hints of coffee and tobacco. On the palate, Alanera is full-bodied with elegant and velvety tannins. Vibrant acidity brings balance and freshness, and supports a long and harmonious finish.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 91: “Aromas of black plum and blueberry pie. Though not an Amarone, the winery partially dries 50 percent of the grapes for a few months creating a wine made from both fresh fruit and dried fruit, creating a wine that’s lush and rich on the palate, but vibrant and intense in equal proportions. It’s silky smooth, with a long finish of spiced plums and dried herbs.”

From me: Sergio Zenata’s winery occupies a prime spot near Lake Garda, where corvina thrives, although this complex wine includes rondinella, corvinone, cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the blend. The wine ultimately spends 12 months in a mix of French oak barrels and stainless steel tanks.

$17.95 at http://vivino.com

2021 Flora Springs Trilogy

From the winemaker: “A dark, concentrated rendition of our most iconic wine, this bottling is redolent of warm, brambly blue and black fruits and metered aromatics of mint, eucalyptus and cola berry. It’s sleek, focused and concentrated, with supporting tannins that bring a refined element to the wine’s finish.

From: Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 94: “Medium to full-bodied, ripe, concentrated, satisfying e ort has lots of blueberry and darker raspberry–like fruit, some chocolaty oak and dusty minerality, ripe tannins, and a great finish. I love its overall balance, it has notable purity.”

From me: Trilogy is a longtime personal go-to California red for me. This is the 38th vintage and arguably one of the best yet, over-delivering even at a hundred bucks a bottle. Owner/winemaker John Komes says it “allowed me to take all I’ve learned in 45 years of farming my vineyard and honing my winemaking craft and creating the wine I’ve always envisioned.. We accomplished a big thing by remaining small.”

$100 at http://florasprings.com

2019 Quadro Monleale Barbera Colli Tortonesi

From the winemaker: “All the classic Barbera cherry and raspberry fruit, with the grape’s high acidity honed into a tightly-knit complexity.”

From falstaff.com, which scored it a 92: “Luminous, deep ruby, bright. Opens on the nose with notes of hazelnuts and pomegranate, ripe cherry. Juicy and savoury on the palate, develops very well, with an abundance of dark cherries, fine tannins, and a dark chocolate finish.”

From me: This is the golden age of barbera, from the relatively new Nizza DOCG to the less well-known Colli Tortonesi. Fortunately, the prices haven’t yet gone crazy, so the value remains.

$29 at Tuttililli

Updated April 22

Sorry, folks, lots of ground to cover today. We’ll start with sports because I was away from the blog for a couple of weeks while covering the Texas Children’s Houston Open (that would be Houston’s PGA Tour golf tournament for you non sports folks) and the Fayez Sarofim & Co. U. S. Men’s Clay Court Championship. (Right, tennis.) In short, both proved to be extraordinary.

The final round of the golf sort of summed up for me why I squandered my life going to ball games, etc. (It wasn’t for the big bucks, to be sure.) We woke up Sunday morning with five men tied for the lead, four of them guys I really hadn’t heard of before Sunday morning, and Scottie Schleffer, the former Texas Longhorn who’s the world’s best golfer and who was trying to win his third consecutive Tour start. Had he prevailed at Memorial Park, he would have won four in a row because, after he left Houston, he went to Augusta, Ga., and won a second friggin’ Masters.

But, in H-town, Scottie blinked. The German Stefan Jaeger, ranked 43rd on the same leader board that Scheffler is the runaway No. 1, didn’t and therefore claimed his first-ever PGA title. Hey, that’s why we play the games and the tournaments. Nothing is pre-ordained on the field, in the arena, or on the course. On any given Sunday . . .

Except on the LPGA Tour? Nelly Korda did what Scottie couldn’t do, extending her Tour-record tying win streak to five events with a dramatic closing round of her own Sunday in the Chevron Championship at Carlton Woods.

Meanwhile, at River Oaks, arguably the best man — because he was the No. 1 seed — won, never mind that said best man is all of 21 years old and had never prevailed on red dirt anywhere. Kid’s name is Ben Shelton (pictured below). Remember it. He’s special. The Rivers Oaks final was special, too, pitting two Black American men in an ATP Tour final for the first time ever. And it happened at a venue that that has a somewhat murky racial past.

I’ve been blessed to to have covered tennis at that gorgeous venue for 48 years now, and my first tournament in 1977 came only two years after Arthur Ashe made his first and last appearance on the grounds. There’s probably no one left alive who really knows the truth, but the indisputable fact is this: Ashe didn’t play in Houston until seven years after he had won the U. S. Open. Some will tell you he wasn’t invited because of the color of his skin. Others will say he didn’t think he would feel welcome because of the color of his skin and rejected the club’s overtures for that reason.

Anyway, Shelton’s three-set victory over Frances Tiafoe, the 2023 champion, was a near-classic between two gifted, immensely athletic players who also understand life’s bigger picture better than most jocks I’ve met. Note that Tiafoe hadn’t been the first Black to conquer the Stadium Court at River Oaks. That distinction belongs to Bryan Shelton, Ben’s dad, who won the River Oaks International in 1992, and was back on site this spring as Ben’s coach.

It’s important to add that both Shelton and Tiafoe insisted they have never been treated better anywhere on the ATP circuit than at River Oaks. All credit to the current members and, of course, to tournament director Bronwyn Greer and her right-hand person, Haley Wallace. Real pros, those two. Cool stories any way you slice them. Let’s raise a glass to Jaeger and both Sheltons. May many more titles follow!

And kudos to the Texans for landing Stefon Diggs, a huge addition on several levels. An elite receiver by any measure, he’s is going to be very good for young C. J. Stroud. And, yes, vice-versa.

As for the Astros . . . Da hell! Say it ain’t so, Joe. We should be worried, very worried, especially with the bullpen in collective free-fall mode. Two years ago, in route to winning a second World Series, they hadn’t lost their 16th game until May 23. Even last season’s so-so start — 11-10 through April 22 — seems red-hot by comparison. They’ll have to go 84-56 the rest of the way just to equal their so-so 90-72 finish in 2023.

Now, back to wine . . .

The day before I left for France I attended a tasting of Portuguese products, where I encountered an old friend . . . in a bottle. Anybody remember the Mateus Rose? Full disclosure: That was my go-to wine as a teenager with a fake ID in El Paso. I probably hadn’t tasted the stuff in more than 50 years and I would have expected it to be sickly sweet, given my, shall we say, unrefined taste back in those days.

Nope. The Mateus was a bit on the sweet side but not overly so. It was bright and fresh and, at under 10 bucks a bottle, a for-real bargain. Winemaker Diogo Sepulveda calls his wine, which has always been non-vintage and is a blend of baga, rufete, tinta barroca and touriga franca, “very appealing with a bright hue. On the whole, it is a fresh and seductive wine with fine and intense bouquet and all the joviality of young wines. In the mouth, it is a well balanced and tempting wine, brilliantly complemented by a soft and slightly fizzy finish.”

I liked the Mateus so much I made it a point to taste every Portuguese pink wine at the event, and there wasn’t a disappointing one in the bunch. Unfortunately, most of the others didn’t have distributors. Or such a lustrous history.

And, speaking of old friends, I made it point to catch up with two of the human kind on my third day in France, Domaine de Mourchon founder Walter McKinlay and Wendy Heineken Gobbi, who, with her French husband Jean-Marc Gobbi, owns the Château Saint Pierre de Mejans winery in the Luberon. Both have strong Houston ties because McKinlay began doing business in our fair city in the 1960s — North Sea oil shipping — and Heineken Gobbi grew up in Kingwood.

The Mourchon and Mejans wines, brought to Texas by my buddy Douglas Skopp’s Dionysus Imports, offer remarkable quality and value, not to say consistency. (Four of my current favorites are pictured below.) That has a lot to do with the face that McKinlay’s winemaker Sebastian Magnouac has been in the cellar near Seguret in the Southern Rhone Valley since the turn of the century, while Mejans’ Brice Doan de Champassak is celebrating his 27th year, having long preceded the Gobbis who bought the winery from Brice’s family only a few years back.

But both guys are still thinking outside the box and have recently released new reds into the market, although not yet the Texas market. I haven’t tasted either but intend to in the very near future.

Walter and Ronnie are living pretty much full-time in London now — his mobility ain’t what it used to be, but, then, who’s is? — so daughter Kate is running the business side at Mourchon. She has turned her parents’ hilltop villa, with a perfect view of Mont Ventoux to the east, into a rental residence that couldn’t be more perfectly situation for touring the Southern Rhone Valley. Ditto the ancient castle and neighboring mas at Mejans for taking in the many wonders of Provence.

Go to http://vrbo.com/france to book the former (http://domainedemourchon.com) and http://airbnb.com to book the latter (http://saintpierredemejans.com). Gorgeous destinations both, and only about an hour apart.

H-town happenings

Wine and Live Art Dinner: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, April 25, at Potente. $250.

Butcher’s Wine-Pairing Dinner: 6:30 p.m. Friday, April 26, at Central Market. $100. http://eventbrite.com http://eventbrite.com

Kemah Boardwalk Spring Wine Fest : 2 p.m. Saturday, April 27. $59.95. http://eventbrite.com

Derby Wine Fest: 2:30 p.m. Saturday, May 4, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $150.00. http://eventbrite.com

Wine Dinner with a four-year vertical of Serca reds from Argentina: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 9, at the Aktins House. $105. http://eventbrite.com rom $105.00

Wine Lovers Run Houston: 7:30 a.m. Saturday, May 11, at Eleanor Tinsley Park. $35. http://eventbrite.com

Revana Wine Dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 16, at La Griglia. $250. http://eventbrite.com

Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 16, at R-C Ranch. $100. http://eventbrite.com

Six-Course Dinner and SERCA Wines Pairing with Chef Kristin Qassom: 6 p.m. Friday, May 17, at SERCA Wines. $195. http://eventbrite.com

Bazaar Food and Wine Festival: 5 p.m. Saturday, May 18, at Sugar Land Town Square. $150. http://eventbrite.com

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Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above. Expect a new one sometime this week, or next. Hey, we’re busy blokes!     

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcie