White

2021 Kosta Browne One-Sixteen Chardonnay Russian River Valley

From the winemaker: “Expressive aromatics of fresh mango, honeyed lemon peel and toasted brioche encompass the senses. Stunningly balanced with a refined, smooth palate, lively acidity, and a weightless texture on the finish.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 96: “Aromas of gunpowder, dried peach and sliced cooked apple. Sea shell. Pineapple. Medium to full body with a creamy texture and lots of fruit but still reserved at the end. Hints of brioche and caramel and then cream. Plenty of fruit and length.”

From me: You think of Kosta Browne and you think pinot noir. Well, think again. This is a world-class chardonnay and, yes, priced accordingly. But, having said that, try buying a bottle of Le Montrachet for 100 bucks.

$99.99 from http://wine.com

Rosé

2023 Figuière Méditerranée

From the winemaker: “Pale salmon pink in color. Nose has notes of white flowers that then develop into white peach skin. The palate expresses the velvety texture of citrus peel and the zestiness of an essential oil. Not mandarin, not lemon, not orange, more like kumquat. There’s something astringent, green, tight and fresh.”

From me: This family-owned domaine with its 210 acres of vines overlooks the Iles d’Or on the French Riviera. It may not be in the high-rent grape-growing neighborhoods of the South of France, which explains the price, but this wine fully captures the best of the sunny South of France in the bottle.

$16.99 at Whole Foods

White

2021 Kosta Browne One-Sixteen Chardonnay Russian River Valley

From the winemaker: “Expressive aromatics of fresh mango, honeyed lemon peel and toasted brioche encompass the senses. Stunningly balanced with a refined, smooth palate, lively acidity, and a weightless texture on the finish.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 96: “Aromas of gunpowder, dried peach and sliced cooked apple. Sea shell. Pineapple. Medium to full body with a creamy texture and lots of fruit but still reserved at the end. Hints of brioche and caramel and then cream. Plenty of fruit and length.”

From me: You think of Kosta Browne and you think pinot noir. Well, think again. This is a world-class chardonnay and, yes, priced accordingly. But, having said that, good luck trying to buy a bottle of Le Montrachet for 100 bucks.

$99.99 from http://wine.com

Red

2019 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon

From the winemaker: “The cabernet from this vineyard ripens early with excellent color, purity of fruit, and phenolic maturity. Adding the rare Bordeaux variety saint-macaire to the blend brings dense savory elements, while a small amount of malbec contributes bright fruit notes to the finish.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 95: “Nearly opaque in the glass, this luxury-level bottling lays all of J. Lohr’s extensive tools on the table, and succeeds with an intense, complex package. Aromas of dark fruit, densely packed flowers, cocoa and coffee leads from the nose into a palate wrapped in expertly polished tannins. They’re firm, but relent at the right time to allow cassis, graphite and cappuccino flavors to shine.” 

From me: Again, $100 is real money. But, like the Kosta Browne chardonnay, it still over-delivers. It’s the best red I’ve tasted so far this year, and it has been a good year for tasting reds.

$100 at http://jlohr.com

2018 Hestan Vineyards Grenache Napa Valley

From the winemaker: “The grapes are pressed using 100-percent whole cluster fermentation and aged 20 months, providing the wine with great structure and freshness throughout the palate.The wine exhibits highly expressive notes of allspice, white pepper, and ripe red fruits, with a medium body mouthfeel it expresses a rich red intensity on the palate.”

From me: I tasted this side by side with one of my reference-standard wines from Gigondas. It was a wash. Impressive, to say the least.

$60 at hestanvineyards.com

2021 Hahn Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco

From the winemaker: “Ruby red in color, with aromas of black cherry, ripe red berry and subtle hints of vanilla and warm spice. On the palate, soft and delicate flavors of cherry and raspberry are followed by creamy nuances and spicy minerality, culminating in a pleasantly long finish.”

From me: Arroyo Seco couldn’t be more perfectly situated for growing great fruit. The rocky soils drain well and the ocean breezes blowing off Monterey Bay through the Salinas Valley ensure gradual ripening of the grapes. Longer hang times equals riper fruit. Location, location, location . . .

$17.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Zenato Alanera Rosso Veronese

From the winemaker: “Brilliant ruby in color, Alanera delights the senses with a variety of aromas and flavors that include fresh and dried cherries and prunes, sweet spice, and hints of coffee and tobacco. On the palate, Alanera is full-bodied with elegant and velvety tannins. Vibrant acidity brings balance and freshness, and supports a long and harmonious finish.”

From, the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 91: “This wine has forward aromas of black plum and blueberry pie. Though not an Amarone, the winery partially dries 50 percent of the grapes for a few months, creating a wine made from both fresh fruit and dried fruit that’s lush and rich on the palate but vibrant and intense in equal proportions. It is silky smooth, with a long finish of spiced plums and dried herbs.”

From me: Sergio Zenata, whose estate is located not far from the eastern shore of gorgeous Lake Garda, is known for making great wines that don’t cost a lot. I love people like Sergio Zenata.

$17.95 at http://vivino.com

2020 Malabaila Bric Volta Roero

From the winemaker: “Bright garnet red color. Red fruit aromas like raspberry, strawberry and blackberry that grow in elegance with spices, balsamic touches and mountain herbs. Powerful and elegant but with soft tannins.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 90: “Intense and sappy, featuring rose, strawberry, currant and tobacco flavors. On the elegant side, with firm, yet refined tannins and a lingering finish.”

From me: The estate, near Canale, has been owned by the Malabaila family since the beginning of the 15th century. That’s staying power. This nebbiolo is a baby Barbaresco, way overdelivering for the price.

$19.97 at Spec’s

Bubbles

Vara Silverhead Brut Rosado

From the winemaker: “This wine has an abundance of lively, tiny bubbles against a vibrant pink background. Aromas of raspberries, wild strawberries, hibiscus flowers and earthy green tea notes. On the palette it’s a balanced, dry, traditionally styled sparkling wine that presents a creamy mousse and lively acidity showcases a complex range of flavors: tangerines, ripe strawberries, fresh shortbread cookies, and almonds. The length of flavors is long, the finish crisp and mouthwatering.”

From me: I was hoping this sparkler, which I had never heard of until recently, would prove to be good because I was born in Albuquerque, where the winery is located, and I spent many summers there visiting my grandparents. I assumed it would be good because the winemaker is Laurent Gruet, who began making sparkling wine at the age of 16 at his family’s Gruet winery, New Mexico’s most famous sparkling wine (but no longer owned by the Gruets). The fruit (75 percent syrah and the rest chardonnay) was grown in the Ancient Lakes AVA in Washington State.

$27 at http://varawines.com

Trader Joe’s Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “Trader Joe’s French Sparkling Brut Rosé was developed as a complement to its best-selling sparkling wine, Trader Joe’s French Brut Blanc de Blancs. We wanted a wine of the same excellent caliber but with its own unique point of view, and we believe this is the one. It’s a rosé made with a proprietary blend of grapes grown on the French coast of the Mediterranean Sea; the blend offers a little more depth, fruit, and body than the Blanc de Blanc, yet maintains those classic, creamy bubbles and that crisp, clean finish for which the Blanc de Blanc is so favored. It’s truly delicious.”

From me: Truly delicious works for me, too. And, at this price . . . Woo hoo!

$6.99 at Trader Joe’s

Whites

2023 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “Enticing and appealing, with notes of honeydew melon, passionfruit, citrus and blackcurrant leaf.

From the Wine Spectator, which awarded a score of 93: “Leaps out of the glass with effusiveness, featuring flavors of apple blossom, Key lime, Honeycrisp, lemon thyme and fresh grated ginger. Notes of passionfruit, pineapple and lemon candy linger on the long, expressive and mouthwatering finish.”

From me: Cloudy Bay has long been the reference standard for New Zealand sauvignon blanc, at least in my book. But I’d forgotten how delightfully refreshing this wine is until I tasted it again recently.

$37.99 at http://wine.com

2021 Vigneti Repetto Piccolo Derthona Timorasso

From the winemaker: “Floral and citrus notes, minerality and freshness. The pairing is with grilled fish dishes, white meats, fried vegetables; ideal as an aperitif.”

From http://thelivingvine.ca: “This timorossa steps up to prove just how beautiful and age-worthy (the varietal) can be Notes of petrol, straw, lemon and white fig, this white is layered and complex, with beautiful acidity and a gorgeous palate.”

From me: Like the arneis grape back in the 1970s, timorasso wasn’t on many wine drinker’s radar screens before a fellow named Walter Massa, whose winery was near Tortona in the Colli Tortonesi about an hour south of Milan, decided back in the 1980s to think outside the box. Barbera was the cash cow in the neighborhood, but Massa thought the terroir was actually better suited for a white grape like timorasso. At the time, there was barely more than an acre of the vines in the ground. Today? More there are more than 400 and it seems like winemakers throughout the Piemonte are at least experimenting with timorasso, which delivers excellent acidity and freshness in the right hands, like the Repettos. Derthrona, by the way, was the ancient name of Tortona.

$26 at http://tuttilili.com

Rosé

2022 Domaine Messier Rose de Pinot Noir Monterey

From the winemaker: “Gives a bouquet of ripe, wild strawberry with subtle savory complexity. The palate gives juicy grapefruit and lemon peel with ripeness balanced by a significant line of acidity.”

From me: I provided a brief summary of the Domaine Messier project in California’s Carmel Valley in my last blog. Luc Messier and Julie Fette seem unlikely vintners, but when you discover the success they enjoyed in their day-job professions — Luc in the business world, Julie as a French professor — it’s no surprise they could figure out wine-making. This is the most elegant, compelling still rosé I’ve tasted of late, and it’s their first release. The Messier chardonnay and pinot noir are also well worth tasting.

$38 at http://shopdomainemessier.com

Reds

2021 OG de Negoce Syrah Terre Siciliane IGT

From the winemaker: “Expressive on the nose with red cherries, plum sauce, and black olive haloed by blueberry and tar. The entry is luscious and earthy with delicate leather and bramble interwoven with cigar box and black cardamom, medium acidity, and swept by polished, grainy, horizontal tannins. The finish is long, barrel-kissed, and resonant with blueberry and plum coulis.” 

From me: The de Negoce brand comes to us from Cameron Hughes, who has reinvented what it means to be a negociant. He has a unique knack for finding surplus — but excellent — juice from all over the world. We hardly think of syrah when we think of Sicily, but perhaps we should after tasting this concentrated, reductive red, which spent 12 months in French oak and could pass for an Amarone in a blind tasting.

$12 from http://denegoce.com

2019 C.D. Vajra Albe Barolo

From the winemaker: “Features a classic pigeon blood garnet color, with a very lively core. A rush of red berries, raspberries and red currants is wrapped by a layer of sweet spices. The mouthfeel opens with a gorgeous balance, great energy and refined tannins, and the aftertaste echoes the aromatics with lingering complexity.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 94: “Stunning in its purity, freshness and vibrancy, the Albe Barolo from the venerable Vajra family is a beauty. Aromas of fresh cherries, wild strawberries, rose- buds, wild herbs, underbrush and subtle chalky notes waft from the glass. The generous palate showcases the tart red fruits Nebbiolo is known for, but at a higher gear followed by more savory flavors finishing with well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity.”

From me: It checks all the Barolo boxes at a price very few, if any, quality Barolos can match. I’ll be buying two or three more bottles when I make my Whole Foods run today.

$39.99 at Whole Foods

2021 Leviathan Red Wine

From the winemaker: “The wine reveals distinct aromas of blackberry bramble, black cherry, and chaparral. Savory spices and star anise meld with mineral, graphite, bay, and laurel reflective of the rocky Northern California terrain. With finely structured tannins, this wine is silky and elegant — yet persistent.”

From Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 94: “Always a good value, the 2021 California Red Wine is no exception and has darker berry fruits, some leafy herb, sage, lavender, and chocolate nuances, full-bodied richness, and a lush, round, seamless style that’s already impossible to resist. This is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (with plenty of other red varieties), and it should shine for 7-8 years, if not a decade, although I would drink this puppy in its youth.”

From me: Like Cameron Hughes, Andy Erickson has also been a rule-breaker, going against the trendy grain of making wines that ostensibly taste of place, instead choosing to make wines that just taste really good — and offer superb value. Since the first vintage of Leviathan in 2004, Erickson has made all of California his appellation. This vintage is a cab-centric blend that includes merlot, petite sirah, petit vergot and cab franc.

$36.99 at http://wine.com

I’ve fortuitously crossed paths of late with Houstonians who have entered the wine-making ranks from very different places. Although they are still novices relatively speaking, they’re doing it right and making excellent, big-league albeit small-production wines. I hope to be writing about them in much greater detail going forward, but I wanted them on everyone’s radar screen today.

First, meet Julie Fette and Luc Messier, pictured above. They launched their Domaine Messier (http://domainemessier.com) in the fall with a rose, a chardonnay and a pinot noir made from fruit grown on their own property in Carmel Valley. Considering the vines are only three years old, these first-vintage-release wines are extraordinary. The pink pinot noir is one of the most elegant I’ve sampled in a long time.

Domaine Messier, they explain on their website, “is not only a part of our true namesake—“messier” means guardian of the harvest in old French—but it also bears the name of the astronomer, Charles Messier. It is from his catalogue of Messier Objects, 110 nebulae and star clusters, that we draw inspiration for our vineyard and winery. Emblazoning each bottle of Domaine Messier wine, you will find artfully interpreted images of Messier Objects which correspond with each vintage produced.

“Our first vintage for 2022 begins with Messier 22, an elliptical globular cluster of stars located in the constellation of Sagittarius. Each vintage will be inspired by its corresponding Messier Object, and the labels will be inspired by NASA images for that Object. Soon we expect to enjoy astounding perspectives of Messier Objects from the James Webb Space Telescope. After 88 years of wine production, the cycle will reset to Messier 1.”

After 88 years? Well, they seem to be in this for the long haul.

Originally from New Jersey, Fette is a Fulbright Scholar and a tenured professor of French at Rice University. Messier has enjoyed a remarkable corporate career in a variety of roles, having landed in Houston as a then-senior Conoco-Phillips executive. Having un-retired in 2022, he’s currently COO for Enerkem, a cutting-edge, Canada-based waste recycling company, so he’ll be doing a bit of commuting between Houston and Montreal for at least the near term.

But the person he most looked-up to as a boy growing up in Quebec was his grandfather, Joseph, a farmer. And what is wine-growing but farming?

Both coming off divorces, Fette and Messier met in Houston a little over a decade ago and it was truly love at first sight. They, of course, had a shared love of wine, too, and that made their project a no-brainer pursuit.

Full disclosure: Their intention is to move to the Carmel area when she retires, But, for the moment, they are proud and happy Houstonians. They have made a lot of friends here. About 100 will be convening in a couple weeks for a private release party. However, the wines are already available through the above website.

Then there’s Jennifer Rossi. A Houston native and a graduate of Memorial High School in Spring Branch, Rossi first identified wine as something intriguing when she and some of her Vassar classmates visited a winery near the university in upstate New York to celebrate her 21st birthday. It only offered pinot noirs, but each was very distinctive and that piqued her interest in this winemaking thing.

After returning to Houston and earning her MBA at Rice (where she became president of the wine club), then marrying and landing a job as a management consultant for Sendero, she still couldn’t get the wine thing out of her head. So Rossi began her studies in 2016 at The Texas Wine School, soon completing WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) levels 1,2, and 3, French Wine Scholar and Texas Specialist of Wine. She also finished the Winemaking Certificate program offered through Texas Tech University and began making homemade wine, with a huge assist from Brock Estes, the owner of Fly Gap Winery in Mason, and major moral support from her husband Drew, a periodontist.

That experiment gave birth to what became The Cause Urban Winery (http://causeurbanwinery.com) in 2020. Right, at the height of COVID. But that freed up her day-job schedule because she began working remotely, giving her more time to spend mapping out a course in wine. And, speaking of giving birth, Rossi is seven months pregnant with her first child. Yes, the wine business must go on a temporary hiatus starting this summer.

But hopefully during her down time the winery and tasting room the Rossis are building out in a repurposed buidling at 6200 Stillman, near the intersection of I-10 and Wescott, will be finished. To date, she has been making her wines at John Rivenburgh’s Kerrville Hills wine incubator, a communal space for aspiring vintners like Jenn and also grape growers, which she doesn’t intend to be.

Nor does she need to be because she has been able to source some excellent Texas fruit, although some years are more complicated regarding same than others. Making wine in Texas takes lots of courage and capital — she freely admits she became her own the winemaker because she didn’t have the cash to hire an experienced one — but Rossi couldn’t be more upbeat about her prospects going forward.

A lot of folks are rooting for her, too, because of how she has structured her company. It supports five great local causes, each of them assigned to a specific wine. For every bottle sold, at least $1 goes to the Memorial Park Conservancy, (2021 Alta Semita Mourvèdre); the Houston Arboretum and Nature Center (2022 Caprifolia Trebbiano), the Houston Area Women’s Center (2021 Vai Avanti Rosé of Mourvèdre); Scout’s Honor Rescue (2021 Skýlos Viognier) and the Houston Food Bank (2020 Cura Annonae Petite Sirah). The latter, her original release, was a bit funky on the first taste, but it opened up splendidly over the course of a couple hours.

You can meet Rossi and taste at the Rice Village Farmers Market on Sunday, March 19, from 9 a.m. through noon. You’ll find her delightful.

H-Town happenings

Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tastings Every Saturday at TuttiLili: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://tuttilili.com

Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com

Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Houston Rodeo Uncorked Wine Winners: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, March 16, at JMP Wines Tasting Room. $75 http://eventbrite.com

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above.  

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com

Updated Feb. 28

A week from tomorrow tonight at the Post Oak Hotel, I’m putting myself on the auction block to benefit the Alliance Française de Houston. In fact, you’ll get two chances to sip and swirl with me and find out, up close and personal, if indeed I do have good taste in wine.

We’ll be celebrating the first 100 years of the Alliance chapter in Houston and the start of our second century — le deuxième siecle, as the French would say — with a black-tie- optional gala featuring all the things you associate with these fund-raising fetes including both silent and live auction items. In my role as president of the board of directors, I’ve been made a co-host of the latter, so I’ll be twice standing up in front of our guests and asking them to spend their hard-earned money for the “privilege” of sharing some of my favorite wines.

I know . . . What could possibly go wrong? Well, worst case, I can bid on myself, although I do hate drinking alone.

Seriously, this is going to be an extraordinary evening of super food (I’ve tasted through the menu and can guarantee there’s no rubber chicken in the mix!) paired with excellent wines in a gorgeous ballroom at Houston’s only five-star hotel. As I type this, I’m delighted to report that just three individual tickets at $250 each remain to be sold so please don’t hesitate to reach out with your credit cards and join the party. Purchases can be made online at http://alliancehouston.org or by dropping a check off at our building, 427 Lovett Blvd., in the heart of Montrose.

The Alliance has for decades brought Houston’s Francophones and Francophiles together through language classes and cultural events, but recent years have been difficult for us in large part because of the pandemic. Although online learning kept most of our students in the fold, income from tastings, concerts, lectures, et. al, and renting our home to other organizations largely dried up just when our also century-old abode began needing a major facelift. Recently, for example, the plaster ceiling in our reception area suddenly came crashing down. Zut alors! Fortunately, no one was in the room at the time.

Needless to say, proceeds from the gala will be largely targeted toward infrastructure repairs and upgrades. To date, we’ve been trying to not spend money we don’t have, but hopefully this soiree will help us turn the corner.

My auctioned tastings (one featuring a lineup of my favorite roses as summer approaches) will be held at Ruggles Black on West Alabama and Porta’Vino on Washington Avenue just north of 1-10. Chef Bruce Molzan at the former and restaurateur Bill Floyd at the latter have long been great — and generous — friends. But a number of other restaurants have offered tasting dinners for auction, including Artisan’s Jacques Fox, who has agreed to be the official chef of the Alliance Française de Houston. Our official purveyor of French goods, the French Farm (http://thefrenchfarm.com), will be prominent in the auction mix, too.

The evening’s wines, still and sparkling, have been generously donated by two board members who also happen to be board members, Jean-Francoise Bonneté (http://bonnete.com) and Douglas Skopp (http://dionysusimports.com). Both have outstanding portfolios as you’ll see by perusing their websites. The cocktail hour starts at 6:30 p.m. Come join the fun and raise a glass, or several, to the beautiful French language and France’s wonderful culture.

Viva Italy, too!

Yep, I’m by-cultural. In late May and early June as many of you may know because, yes, it has been mentioned in this space before, I’m leading a lovely 10-day tour through the heart of Italy’s Piemonte wine country, my favorite wine region on the planet and a place I’ve visited frequently for nearly 30 years.

Our home base for four nights in the Langhe will be the elegant Relais Luigi
Einaudi, which sits on a panoramic hilltop above the town of Dogliani, one of
the region’s hidden gems. (Better still, the Einaudi winery sits right next
door.) From there, we’ll visit two Ceretto venues, the hilltop headquarters in
San Cassiano just west of Alba and the flagship Bricco Roche estate, with its
landmark glass Cube designed and constructed by the same firm responsible for
the Pyramid at the Louvre in Paris.

Note that the Cerettos, great personal friends of mine since the mid-1990s, are
partners with rock-star chef Enrico Crippa at Piazza Duomo, one of the world’s
greatest restaurants where we’ll lunch after a morning visit to the historic
Pio Cesare cellars nearby. The older section dates to the late 19th century and
the cavernous space is split by a 2,000-year-old Roman wall. Pio Cesare is
uniquely situated, being the only winery in Alba proper.

 

The sumptuous lunch at Piazza Duomo will be one of at least three that will be
prepared by chefs possessing Michelin stars. Another, Guido, located at the
Fontanafredda winery, has a storied history and personal memories that I’ll be
excited to share with you. In route to Lake Como, where we will spend a night, we
will also have a catered lunch at the magnificent Airbnb owned by the Amistà
Winery in Nizza, the happening new DOCG that was carved out of the Barbera
d’Asti DOC in 2014.   

On Thursday, May 23, we’ll convene in Turin, which I got to know well while
covering the 2006 Winter Olympics for the Houston Chronicle, and we’ll wrap up
our grand adventure in Milan on Saturday, June 1 with a sumptuous farewell
dinner. Heading to Milan, we’ll make a detour to Franciacorta’s bubbles
country, too, in order to taste at the spectacular Ca del Bosco property.

 And, before we hit the wine trail, we’ll be taking a detour up and over the Alps
into my neighborhood, the Ubaye Valley (http://ubaye.com),
for a special late-afternoon dinner with my great friend, chef Hubert Longeron,
at his gîte in one of France’s most remote and breathtakingly beautiful
corners.

The cost is $7,750 per person, all-inclusive once you step off the plane. Registration can be handled through http://gourmettours.biz.

Here are links to some of our stops:  

WINERIES

Amistà: http://amistapiedmontwine.com

Bruno Rocca: http://www.brunorocca.it

Ca del Bosco: http://cadelbosco.com

Ceretto: http://www.ceretto.com

Domenico Clerico: www.domenicoclerico.com

Oddero: http://www.oddero.it

Pio Cesare: http://piocesare.it

Poderi Luigi Eiunadi: http://www.poderieinaudi.com

 HOTELS

Relais Luigi Einaudi (Dogliani): http://www.relaiseinaudi.com

Villa Morelia (Jausiers, France): http://villa-morelia.com

RESTAURANTS (*Michelin stars)

***Piazza Duomo: http://piazzaduomoalba.com

*Massimo Camia (La Morra) : http://massimocamia.it

*Guido (Serralunga): http://guidoristorante.it

Le Quattro Stazione (Saluzzo): http://le-sanssouci.com

Sans Souci (Jausiers): le-sans-souci.com

Ristorante Moda (Monforte d’Alba): http://modavenue.eu

La Locanda del Sorriso (Dogliani): http://lalocandasorriso.com

Tratorria Il Risorgimento (Treiso): http://risorgimento.yolasite.com

La Piola: http://lapiola-alba.it

 OTHER

Wine Museum (Barolo): http://wimu.barolo.it: We’ll visit on Monday morning, May 27, for big-picture purposes and to give everyone a chance to take a stroll through the town of Barolo.

H-Town happenings

Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com

Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Orin Swift Wine Dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 29, at Kiran’s. $195. 713-960-8472  info@kiranshouston.com

Wine Tasting & Pasta Celebrating Black & Women’s History: 11 a.m. Saturday, March 2, at 2515 Harvard St. $10. http://eventbrite.com

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above.  

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com

Sparkling

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose

From the winemaker: “It’s a blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir vinified as red wine. Radiant color with graceful effervescence, a persistent mousse, and fine bubbles rising slowly in the glass. Subtle and fine aromas leading to an expressive red berry flavor with citrus zest. Creamy and smooth on the palate, evolving to strawberries notes and a raspberry finish. Light, balanced, and precise.”

From Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 94: “Attractive pale salmon hue, with a fresh perfume of wild strawberry, ripe peach, white and red flowers, a hint of tropical fruit, and grapefruit. The palate is rounded, with fruit up front and through the mid-palate, and it has a silky and fresh lift. There is a wonderful ease and drinkability to this wine, which delivers balance and finesse.”

From me: I’ve touted this sparkler before in this space, but it deserves another mention with Valentine’s Day looming. These chic, tasty and sexy bubbles check all the boxes for clinking glasses with your love.

$89.79 at Spec’s

Iron Horse Vineyards Winter Cuvee

From the winemaker: “Ripe and opulent with baking spices and brioche. A full, round mouth-feel is accented with notes of fresh roasted nuts, citrus curd, and warm apple pie with notes of honeysuckle. This beautifully structured wine ends with a long, lingering finish and a siren song calling for another glass! It’s made for hearty feasts, roasted s’mores and general revelry.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “This may be Iron Horse’s richest cuvée, made from two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third ChardonnaySoft, ripe-tasting and mouthfilling, this easy-drinking bottle of bubbles is ripe in Bosc pear, Fuji apple and vanilla bean flavors backed by a hint of sweetness.”

From me: An iconic American winery, named after a railroad stop which crossed the Green Valley property in Sonoma County the 1890s. it was rediscovered as a vineyard site in 1970 by winemaker Rodney Strong, who planted the original 55 acres of chardonnay and 55 acres of pinot noir. Laurence Sterling runs the show there today, overseeing the replanting of 82 acres to create a new generation of single-clone small blocks.  

$75 at http://ironhorsevineyards.com

Red

2018 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Manzoni

From the winemaker: “The nebbiolo fruit grows in La Morra’s calcareous clay soils. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, then ages in new French oak barriques (30 to 40 percent new) for 24 months, followed by 12 months in bottle before release.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Good, nutty red-fruit aromas follow through to a medium-bodied palate with integrated tannins and a medium finish.”

From me: The Grassos have been making wine since 1927 but only began bottling their wines in 1980. Federico Grasso, the current Grasso calling the shots, routinely delivers spot-on Barolos at eminently reasonable price points.

$59.97 at Spec’s

2021 Zenato Valpolicella Superiore

From the winemaker: “Ruby red in color, this Valpolicella Superiore offers fleshy aromas of wild berries, black currants, black cherries, and spices, with hints of chocolate. On the palate, the wine is dry and robust with velvety texture.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “Vibrant nose with spiced cherries, plums, dried herbs, cloves and some bark. It’s medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and juicy cherries. Fruity and caressing mouth-feel, before a medium finish.

From me: A blend of corvina (80 percent), rondinella (10) and oseleta, it has become my new favorite Valpolicella, a Veronese wine that has been a fixture in the U.S. market since I was a kid but rarely wowed anyone. Modern technology and the decision in 2003 to revamp the DOC regulations requiring the inclusion of the blah molinara varietal in the blend has made a world of difference in the overall quality.

$16.99 at http://wine.com

2018 Liberation de Paris Côtes du Rhône

From the winemaker: “It’s a blend of the aromatic, smooth grenache grape with syrah for its length and power and mourvèdre for its fine tannins. The vines grow on slopes that are protected from the Mistral wind at an altitude of 300m in the Drôme, where the stony marl-based soil yields classy, harmonious, powerful wines, and also on the flatlands in the Gard in predominantly sandy soils where the Grenache grape can express itself fully and lend the wine its aromatic complexity and smoothness. 

From me: The man behind it, Jean-François Bonneté happens to be a great friend and fellow Alliance Francaise board member, but that’s not why this Rhône red is getting a tout from me. There’s a lot going on in this Rhone red despite it’s bargain-basement price. It’s equal parts fruity and peppery with a long finish.

$13.99 at Spec’s

2023 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau

From the winemaker: “Displays a brilliant garnet color with purple reflections. It offers fresh aromas of black cherries and blackberries, as well as a dense texture, and an admirable richness. Refreshing, fruity and supple on the palate, this vintage is a perfect expression of Nouveau.

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it an 87: “Maraschino cherry and loganberry fruit has substance in this version, while slightly tangy acidity keeps it moving along through the violet-tinged finish.”

From me: I’m almost never impressed by a Beaujolais Nouveau, but this one got my attention. I fully agree with the Spectator’s description, but I would have scored it at least an 89, were I still into awarding scores.

$11.99 at Spec’s

2020 Malabaila Bric Volta Roero

From the winemaker: “Bright garnet red, it offers red fruit aromas of raspberry, strawberry and blackberry and also spice, balsamic touches and mountain herbs. The already announced red fruits emerge in the mouth. It’s powerful and elegant but with soft tannins.

From me: Wine has been made by the family on their perfectly situated property northeast of Alba since the 14th century. Lucrezia Carrega Malabaila, the current winemaker and commercial director, represents the 65th generation. That’s staying power.  

$19.97 at Spec’s

Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny Port

From the winemaker: “Intense amber tawny colour. Opulent and voluptuous nose of complex spicy, jammy and nutty aromas, hints of orange flower and a fine oakiness coming from the long period of aging in cask. The palate is full of very rich and concentrated flavor and has a long mellow finish.”

From James Suckling, who scored it 95 points: “The aromas to this beautiful tawny port are saturated with burnt orange peel, caramel, candied fruit and hints of honey-coated nuts. Full-bodied, very fruity and dense with intense nut and mahogany flavors. Hints of sultanas, chocolate and coffee. Extremely creamy, long and flavorful. Delicious all the way. Better served slightly chilled.”

From me: Speaking of staying power, this legendary port house is celebrating its 325th anniversary. Job Bearsley, an English merchant, travelled to Portugal in 1692 and founded the company we now know as Taylor Fladgate. The current team at the helm has been in place since the early 1990s, and nobody does tawny port better than head winemaker/technical director David Guimaraens.

$45.99 at Spec’s

One day recently, after sampling a slew of great Bordeaux wines from the 2021 vintage, bottles with labels that any for-real oenophile would recognize in an instant, I signed off for the evening with an obeidy from Chateau Oumsiyat. By any measure, it more than held its own with the iconic labels of Bordeaux.

Only the most serious and worldly of oenophiles would know without going to Google that obeidy is an indigenous white grape from Lebanon, one of the oldest wine-growing regions on the planet. But, if Sam Jaoude’s hunch proves correct, lots of Texans will soon be familiar with not just obeidy but also meksassi, merwah and sobbagiegh. All, of course, are varietals native to the country, particularly the high Bekka Valley, where the terroir couldn’t be more ideal for growing world-class fruit.

“They have 300 days of sun, nice breezes off Mediterranean, limestone in the soil and reservoirs of clean water,” Jaoude said. “It’s perfect.”

A proud Lebanese-American who originally moved to Texas to sell pharmaceuticals a decade or so ago, he then began importing foods from Lebanon and that led him to take the obvious next step — wine. He built a carefully culled portfolio of tiny wine producers, some 15 in all, with significant logistics support and financial assistance from the U.S. Agency for International Development. (http://usaid.gov).

Two Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo International Wine Competitions later, the wines have collected a slew of medals, including three golds in the 2022 judging and another two last November. The Atibaia Red Blend from the Batroun District has gone two-for-two, winning golds for both the 2014 and 2015 vintages.

The only problem for Jaoude has been getting the bottles into local consumers’ cellars. But that’s about to change in a big way. You can soon expect to see a smattering of Jaoude’s wines on the shelf in Central Market and H-E-B stores. The aforementioned Oumsiyat Obeidy, from the 2021 vintage, is already for sale at the Phoenicia stores. Both fruity and flowery with traces of exotic spice, it’s a steal for $19.99.

“It’s all about creating good partnerships,” Jaoude said.

And, of course, bringing in great wines, then educating the public. Fortunately, many of Jaoude’s are blends of vinifera grapes we all know well, particularly the varietals favored by the French. Some believe cabernet sauvignon, merlot, et. al., were first domesticated in what’s now Lebanon more than 2,000 years ago, but they were probably brought by the Phoenicians from the South Caucasius  via Mesopotamia or the Black Sea.

The Israelite prophet Hosea (780–725 BC) is said to have urged his followers to return to God so that “they will blossom . . . like the wine of Lebanon, (and) their fragrance will be like that of Lebanon”.

The Lebanese Rodeo gold medalists follow. Detailed information on the wineries can be found at http://lebanonwines.com. And you’ll find all the medalists at  rodeohouston.com/rodeo-uncorked-wine.

• 2014/15 Atibaia Red Blend Batroun District.
• 2018 Chateau Mont D’Almaz Red Blend.
• 2020 Karam Maison Red
• 2019 Muse du Liban Chateau Ainata Rouge des Cedres Cabernet Sauvignon

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Patrick Mahomes

He should have been a Texan, dammit! Instead, the Chiefs traded up to pluck him away before Houston had a chance to call his name. Still, at the time, it seemed an OK tradeoff. DeSean Watson looked to be no slouch, either, coming off a national championship at Clemson while Mahomes had quarterbacked only decent teams at Texas Tech. And Mahomes wouldn’t start as a rookie in 2017, instead playing behind and learning from the veteran Alex Smith. However, when he finally took over . . . Geez Louise! A first-team All Pro in 2018, he’s off to the best start of any quarterback in NFL history save for perhaps the GOAT himself, Tom Brady, leading KC to three Super Bowls and five consecutive AFC title games. At least there’s some solace in knowing the Texans now have C.J. Stroud under center instead of the Watson, who had talent but couldn’t have been more of an off-the-field disaster.

Pouring one out for . . . David Casstevens

David and I were colleagues and confidantes at the Houston Post from 1972 through 1980. I inherited the Oilers beat from him in 1976 when he received a much-deserved promotion to columnist, so we got to cover the Luv ya Blue Oilers together. I’ve never worked with a better writer, or one who suffered so much while scripting what ultimately was always the perfect column. My favorite memory — among dozens — was entering his room at the Pittsburgh Greentree Marriott the day before the first Oilers-Steelers AFC Championship Game matchup in January 1979. It was littered with crumpled-up pages, at least 20 false starts for what would, of course, become a delightful read in the end. We stayed close for the next 30 years, me writing columns for the Post and then the Houston Chronicle while he wrote columns for the Dallas Morning News and the Arizona Republic, before returning to his roots with the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. But we had drifted apart in recent years and I blame myself fully for that. Sadly, David passed away recently. RIP, DC.

H-Town happenings

Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com

Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Brovia Barolo Estate Showcase with Elena Brovia and Alex Sanchez: 5 p.m. Tuesday at AOC Selections. $95. http://aocselections.com/products/brovia-vertical-tasting

Brovia wine dinner: Thursday, Feb. 8, 6:30 p.m., at Ostia. $180. http://eventbrite.com

Red wines from our cellar pairing dinner: Thursday, Feb. 8, 6 p.m. $105. http://eventbrite.com

Romantic Wine Pairing Experience: Tuesday, Feb. 13, at Stella’s Wine Bar. $45. http://eventbrite.com

Charcuterie Workshop and Wine Tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 15 at JMP Wines Tasting Room. http://event.brite.com

Wine Tasting Soirée: 6 p.m. Friday, Feb. 16, at Postino Montrose. Free. http://eventbrite.com

Wine Down Wednesday: 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, Feb. 21, at The Library. $25. http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. That’s me with my sidekick Jeremy Parzen above.

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com

Bubbles

Presto Prosecco

From the winemaker: “Light straw in color with bright yellow highlights, it offers aromas of peach blossom, apple and pear and has a fruity bouquet with a hint of apple and minerality. Delicate notes of peach and pear with a fine perlage.”

From me: It’s a classic aperitif sparkler made from well-sourced glera fruit grown in the Veneto. No further analysis needed. Drink and enjoy!

$13.99 at Whole Foods

Stella Rosa Prosecco DOC Treviso

From the winemaker: “Flavors of bosc pear, yellow apple and lemon. Pairs well with fruit tarts, pies and brunch.” 

From me: Like the Presto, it’s a wine to be enjoyed and not overthought even on cold, gray winter days. However, do note that these bubbles, made from Treviso-grown fruit, earned a 95-point score, a gold medal and Best-of-Class honors at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition.

$14.49 at Spec’s

White

2022 Stout Family Granny Rae Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “Rich Floral aromas of passion fruit surrounded by citrus lime and grapefruit zest and a slight nutty undertones. Youthful hints of citrus elements combining with neutral French oak aging, created this round and delicious wine with a slightly tart finish. Crisp, dry and clean.”

From me: When I first started writing about wine for the Houston Chronicle, I made it a point to meet Guy Stout, who had recently earned his Master Sommelier lapel pin. We’ve been buddies ever since, but that doesn’t color my opinion about his excellent wines, made in partnership since the 2013 vintage with Napa Valley icon Tom Rinaldi. This is a world-class savignon blanc, truly one of the best I’ve ever tasted, that’s offered at a most affordable price. Kudos to Stout’s Napa Valley-based son Ian for keeping his hands on the reins out there.  

$28 at http://aocselections.com

2019 Diatom Bar-M Chardonnay

From the winemaker: “Like a pent-up wave just about to break, rich and luxurious fruit is harnessed in by bracing acidity and precision. Lemon, citrus blossom, and wet sand on the nose. Precise and balanced textures. Impeccably clean, focused and transportive to the maritime landscape from which the wine emerges. Saline, white peach flavors.”

From Jeb Dunnuck, who scored it a 93: “A rich, medium to full-bodied chardonnay with a killer texture, nicely integrated acidity and a great finish. It gives up a juicy, vibrant nose of tart pineapple, citrus, and honeyed flowers. Pairing wonderfully fresh, complex aromatics with plenty of oomph and richness on the palate, this beautiful chardonnay is ideal for drinking over the coming four to five years.”

From me: Made with grapes sourced from 20-plus-year-old vineyards in Santa Barbara County’s under-appreciated Los Alamos region, where the sandy loam soils give the fruit more flesh and weight, it’s surprises the palate, being neither predictably Burgundian nor Californian in flavor. Winemaker Greg Brewer always thinks outside the box.

$22.99 at Kroger (West Gray)

Pink

Espiral Vinho Rosé

From the winemaker: “Fresh aromas of pineapple and strawberry leads to a palate rich with acidity, peaches and citrus fruit.”

From the Reverse Wine Snob, which scored a 6 of a 10-point scale but a 10 for value: “Opens with aromas of strawberry and watermelon jello, some citrus notes and fruit punch. It’s sweet but not overwhelmingly so. The fruit turns a bit more tart when tasting along with continued citrus notes, strawberry and watermelon. It finishes a bit short, but it would certainly be refreshing on a hot day.”

From me: Or a cold one, which we’ve had a few of lately. It’s a non-vintage pink wine that’s shockingly good at this price point. You’d think the bottle alone would cost this much, never mind the shipping charges.  

$4.99 at Trader Joe’s

Red

2018 Marchesi di Barolo

From the winemaker: “Garnet-red color with ruby highlights. Intense perfume with clean scents of ripe fruit, dog roses, tobacco and spices. Full, elegant and austere flavor with a good body and lingering hints of the olfactory sensations.”

From Decanter, which scored it a 94: “Density of fruit in the mouth with sweet red berries, dried herbs and earthy notes. Stunning intensity. Broad and suave, it has weighty concentrated fruit without excessive extraction with dusty texture to the finish.”

From me: Don’t just take my word for it. This was the 2024 Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo’s grand-champion red wine. I was delighted to hear the news because I’ve gotten to know the Abbona family, whose roots in Barolo date to the early 19th century. They’re super people with a super lineup of wines. And what a superb price for a Barolo. Thank you, Spec’s!

$49.97 at Spec’s

2020 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas

From the winemaker: “Rich and hearty mouthfeel with notes of red fruits and aromatic herbs (basil and laurel). A mineral-rich and elegant wine associated with notes of truffles and flowers showing a gorgeously long finish.”

From Vinous, which scored it a 96: “Dark magenta. Vibrant cherry, raspberry and lavender aromas show excellent clarity and a spicy white pepper hint. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, it displays expansive red fruit and spice cake flavors with a subtle touch of candied licorice. Closes sappy and impressively long, with resonating floral and red fruit notes and gentle tannins that build slowly.”

From me: A classic blend of grenache (78 percent) and syrah (14 percent) plus cinsault and mourvèdre, this is Michel Faraud’s only wine. His vineyard plots are scattered throughout the Gigondas appellation, but the most prized fruit comes from the Col du Cayron, which is 1,500 feet above sea level in the Dentelles that rise behind the village. He ages the juice for a couple of years in giant old oak foudres. No new oak for him!

$43.59 at Spec’s

1. Blog on a more regular basis, dropping at least three per month.
2. Well, at least two.
3. Make it back to Napa and Sonoma, and the Texas Hill Country. Especially the Hill Country. It’s close and there’s a lot of good folks in the trenches fighting the good fight in the face of drought everywhere, and Dicamba in the High Plains.
4. Resume doing group blind tastings. There’s no better way to judge wine and I love the personal interaction.
5. Become even more of a regular at Porta’Vino. Superb food and great value — still no entrees over $29 — and BYOB, although Bill Floyd’s small, splendidly curated wine list beats every place in town hands-down price-wise.
6. Call bullshit more often on ridiculous wine-pricing markups. Except I rarely frequent the ripoff artists, and we have plenty, unless I’m invited.
7. Find a way to schedule more tastings at the Alliance Francaise in our nicely redone — or at least repainted — salon. The late, great Bear Dalton made the Alliance an important gathering place for local oenophiles and we sorely miss him. (I say we because I’m the president of the board of directors.)
8. Broaden my wine-drinking horizons although my doctor would probably recommend doing the opposite. But, as Willie Nelson is wont to remind us, “There are more drunks than there are old doctors so, brother, let’s have another round.” Hey, Willie just turned 90. I’ll have what he’s having . . . except the stuff that has to be smoked. All in gummies, however. The wines pictured above? I’ve never tasted any of them, but that’s going to change over the next few days, er weeks.
9. Expend more energy badgering producers to go to screwcaps. For 99 percent of the wine produced annually, they makes way more sense.
10. Dig even deeper than I already have into Italy’s Piemonte, my favorite wine region on the planet. Especially the new Nizza DOCG, where the once lowly barbera is attaining Grand Cru status. I’m excited about leading a http://gourmettours.biz trek through that beautiful region in late May/early June. Still have two spots open, folks!

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . the Texans

Whether or not they make the playoffs, and it all comes down to their game against the Colts in Indianapolis Saturday, this season has been a stunning success. C. J. Stroud is having one of the finest rookie seasons ever for an NFL quarterback despite playing behind an injury-decimated offensive line, and Will Anderson Jr. has already broken J. J. Watt’s franchise rookie record for sacks. (Right, blasphemy!) There’s no question that DeMeco Ryans deserves serious consideration for coach-of-the-year honors. And it couldn’t happen to a nicer bunch of guys, starting with DeMeco himself. I loved conversing with him as a player back in the day.

H-Town happenings

Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com

Tastings Every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. $40 http://eventbrite.com

Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Truly Greek, Truly Unique wine tasting: 6:30-8:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 18. at JMP Wine Tasting Room http://eventbrite.com

Texas Wine Market: Noon-4 p.m. Jan. 24. Bluebonnet Tasting Room, 401 Commerce St., Tomball, $30 presale, $40 at the door. https://checkout.square.site/merchant/MLF89X8DCFFR0/checkout/SSO7TMRRWB7F5JCKE44MGPDX

Red wines from our cellar pairing dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 8, at Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. A new one, hosted by Jeremy Parzen (yep, that’s us pictured above, sharing a bottle of Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco in the Piemonte), will be dropping over the weekend. You can follow Parzen’s own blog at http://dobianchi.com. (Huge kudos to Jeremy and his wife Tracy for continuing to fight the good fight against a heinous neo-Confederate “monument” marring the landscape in her home town of Orange.)

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehousthon.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com

Updated 12-30

I’m closing out what has been a wonderful 12 months of swirling and sipping on two continents with a typically eclectic array of wines, three of which hail from Texas and all of which I have enjoyed recently. And I’m especially happy to report that, with New Year’s Eve less than a week away, my four sparklers can all be found on shelves locally.

Here’s wishing everyone a splendid 2024. Cheers!

Bubbles

Frerejean Freres Grande Réserve

From the winemaker: “Our signature wine is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir aged for a minimum of five years, producing an elegant Champagne that embodies the richness of the Frerejean Frères terroir. Low brut dosage and late disgorgement mean that it’s both balanced and generous.”

From me: Brothers Guillaume, Richard and Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger struck out on their own a few years back, leaving the giant Taittinger brand to other members of the iconic Champagne family. They’re boutique growers and producers in every sense of the term, although their intention wasn’t to reject their famous heritage. Their wine satisfies at a savory price.

$59.84 at Spec’s

Madame Zéro Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru

From the winemaker: “All fruit that we grow is from one village, the iconic village of Vertus in the champagne region of France, and derived from 47-year-old vines. We grow beautiful chardonnay, so we focus on singularity and aging four times longer than traditional champagne. We don’t need the added sugars normally found in champagne to achieve balance like many of the large brands. We are the first champagne house to include nutrition facts on the label out of France.”

From me: Healthy bubbles? Hey, count me in. “House” founder Matthew Massey (quoted above by Texas Lifestyles Magazine) may have grown up on Galveston island, but it didn’t take him long to grasp the glories of champagne after he’d made good money working in the energy sector. As a fitness buff, Massey felt compelled to deliver a low-cal sparkler that can run with the big dogs. He succeeded . . . and then took things to an even higher level with his 2013 vintage brut “Mille,” featured below.

$63.64 at Spec’s

2013 Madame Zéro Grande Vintage “Mille”

From the winemaker: “Offers a delightful nose of honeycomb, lemon zest, and white flower. On the palate, this Champagne exhibits exceptional structure with a silky mousse, chalky minerality, and crisp acidity. The deep and elegant character unfolds in layers, showcasing stone fruits such as peach and apricot, accompanied by fresh lemon, white raspberry, and honeysuckle notes that linger on the long, elegant finish. “Mille” promises to evolve beautifully with time, with its crisp acidity and fine structure maturing and flourishing over 10 to 20-plus years of cellaring. True to the progressive and transparent foundation of Madame Zéro, the our vintage sparkler is also ultra-low sugar with less than half a gram per glass, and openly provides nutrition info on the label.”

From me: The hand-picked fruit, 85 percent chardonnay and the rest pinor noir, grew on 45-year-old vines in Vertus. Aged for more than nine years on the lees, the wine is equal parts complex and in-your-face delicious. Why “Mille?” Only 1,000 bottles were made, and 300 of them come in gorgeous gift boxes largely hand-crafted by Massey’s dad. These bubbles check all the boxes at fair price, given the exquisite quality.

$200 at Central Market

Gran Moraine Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “Aromas of strawberry shortcake, canned pear, white peach, lightly toasted broiche, and rose petals. The palate flirts with tangerine, kumquat, nectarine on the finish with warm watermelon rind and lemon meringue pie. Balanced fatness and acidity on the texture, vibrant and exceptionally clean all the way through to the finish, phenomenally precise.”

From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 94: “A rare domestic rosé that captures the vibrant acidity of Champagne, offering delicate strawberry, raspberry flavors laced with steely minerality and sprinkle of graham cracker on the finish.”

From me: It’s a classic Champagne blend of estate-grown pinot noir and chardonnay with a bit of pinot meunier too from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Shane Moore, who has been at Gran Moraine since 2013 after working in cellars all over the world, from Western Australia to the Golan Heights. took charge of the winemaking in 2016. He’s known for picking his fruit early, explaining “that’s how I was going to achieve the tension and energy that I was seeking from my wines.”

$52.60 at Spec’s

WHITE

2021 Cormorant Cellars White Blend

From me: Charlie Gilmore blended the certified organic grenache blanc (64 percent) and marsanne from Preston Family Vineyards deep in the Dry Creek Valley, during fermentation to “combine the aromas of the wine early in its life.” Like all of Gilmore’s offerings, fermented primarily in 7-year-old barrels, it was bottled unfined and unfiltered and could easily pass as a fine white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a superb first-vintage effort at every level from a winemaker best known for his sauvignon blancs. And it comes in at only 12.9 percent alcohol, perfect for an apero.

$27 at http://cormorantcellars.com/purchase

2020 Saint Tryphon Clement Sangiovese

From the winemaker: “The wine is supple and fresh, with red plum and dusty cherry lead the charge, and a pleasant floral character and smooth, lively tannins, too. I was aiming for this wine to fall somewhere between a Brunello di Montalcino and a DOCG Chianti. It is broad, but not too big, embracing vivacity over power.”

From me: The quote above from Silouan Branford, Saint Tryphon’s owner-winemaker, was shared by Russ Kane in his http://vintagetexas.com. The “Texas Wineslinger” also shared the wine, bless him. The Brunello clone fruit from Neal Newsom’s High Plains vineyard was subjected to wild fermentation and thrice daily punch-downs. One barrel aged in new French oak.

$45 at http://sainttryphon.com

RED

2018 Rouge Bleu Lunatique

From me: Winemaker Caroline Jones, who hails from Australia, worked only with grenache from Rhone Valley floor vines, most of them growing in Sainte Cecille between Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, that were planted in 1910. The “lunatic” reference relates to the fact that the grapes are biodynamically farmed, not to either Jones’ or her French husband Thomas Bertrand’s mental state. The wine is equal parts powerful and elegant.

$53 at French Country Wines

2020 Tenuta Luce LaVite Lucente

From the winemaker: “The nose is rich in black fruits such as blueberries and blackberries, accompanied by a light balsamic and pan brioché note. The palate is soft supported by a nice freshness, with enveloping tannins and a long fruity aftertaste.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 93: “A rich and flavorful red showing subtle cocoa powder, roasted spices, cassis and sweet berries. Juicy and medium- to full-bodied on the palate with fine tannins and a long, polished finish.”

From me: A beautiful intersection of quality and value, this one. It will pair splendidly with haute cuisine or hamburgers. Interestingly, the winery was initially a visionary collaboration between Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi plus their sons Lamberto and Tim respectively. Lamberto took charge by his lonesome when the Mondavi family pulled out of the partnership in 2005.

$23.99 at http://wine.com

2021 C. L. Butaud Cease & Desist Red Blend

From the winemaker: “For the Cease & Desist wines we have made here in Texas, we start with a base of our flagship tempranillo, tipping our hat to the red blends of Spain from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, et al. Blended in the past with syrah and mourvèdre, these wines have been voluptuous, showstopper wines, with my artistic focus based more on the hedonistic pleasure of drinking robust and velvety wines.”

From me: Houston native Randy Hester began Ceast & Desist as a California project, with grenache front and center. But that variety struggles in Texas so Hester deftly shifted gears. Note that it comes a very heavy bottle, often a marketing tactic that confers gravitas to wines that lack same. Not in this case, folks.  

$48 at http://clbutaud.com

2021 Juggernaut Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

From the winemaker: “Aromatics of cherries, raspberries, ripe strawberries, caramelized brown sugar with an element of earth and subtle black tea leaf. Flavors of plush red fruits, red plum, rich viscosity and lingering vanilla bean and baking spices.”

From me: Juggernaut says its wines “harness the power of nature to produce robust, compelling wines.” Exhibit A would be this pinot, which spent an average of 12 months in both new and used oak. It packs a lot of flavor — vanilla is prominent — without being overly tannic.

$21.99 at http://wine.com

2017 RIVENYATES Kerrville Hills

From me: John Rivenburgh, who purchased Kerrville Hills in 2018, earned a reputation as a tannat savant during his previous tenure at Bending Branch Winery, which he and Dr. Robert Young co-founded in 2009. Ron Yates, in turn, may be Texas’ greatest champion of the tempranillo grape. Being good friends, they pooled their passions, became “co-conspirators” and created this truly unique bright red gem of a Texas High Plains wine. It opens slowly but closes fast.

$60 at http://kerrvillehillswinery.com

Which is to say, in Italian, the whole world is a country, and a small one at that. The last time Jeremy Parzen and I convened for a podcast, I brought up a favorite new wine of mine, the Smith-Madrone Riesling, which you read about in my most recent “Sippin’ with Sporty” blog. Well, as it happens, Julie Ann Kodmur, who is married to Stu Smith — yep, the Smith in Smith-Madrone — grew up in the same La Jolla neighborhood where Parzen’s family lived. In his words, she “was like a big sister to me.” And, he added, “Julie Ann was just enough older than me to be my baby-sitter.”

Damn.

But then last week I received an email from the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo announcing the winners of its International Wine Competition. In a field of 2,985 wines representing 22 countries, Smith-Madrone’s 2018 Riesling had earned Reserve Grand Champion honors.

Damn again.

Full disclosure: Best as I can recall, I’d somehow never crossed paths with a Napa Valley riesling — never mind one that made me say, “Wow!” — before my fortuitous meeting with the Smith-Madrone, which drinks like a great Alsatian or Mosel riesling.

The fruit grows on the vertiginous Spring Mountain above St. Helena, a place I’d always associated with chardonnay because of the historic Stony Hill Winery located nearby. And you can’t get any higher on Spring Mountain than Smith-Madrone, whose vines grow at elevations of 1,200 to 1,900 feet — and above the fog line, as shown above.

Stuart Smith took a hike through the forests up there in 1970. It was love at first sight, and height. In only a year’s time, he had founded his winery and, in 1973, brother Charlie came on board. (The Smiths are pictured here.) The first vintage put in the bottle was 1977. And, in 1996, Stuart and Kodmur were married. A year later, she launched the marketing/consulting firm (http://julieannkodmur.com) that she still runs all by her lonesome.

So who’s Madrone, you ask? It’s neither a he nor a she but rather a tree species that grows prolifically on Spring Mountain.

Kodmur apologizes for not remembering anything wild and crazy about her childhood friendship with Parzen. “We lived two or three blocks apart on Avenida Cresta,” she said. “Our mothers were close friends, so we saw a lot of each other. We’d go down to the tide pools . . . ride bikes . . . just had fun.” Yet, serendipitously and fortuitously, they both ended up in the business of promoting wine despite educational detours. She would earn a Master’s in art history; he a Doctorate in Italian, which he speaks fluently.

Besides, obviously, Smith-Madrone, Kodmur’s clients include Aridus, Castello di Amorosa, BARRA of Mendocino, Notre Vue Estate, Kelly Fleming Winery, Silver Trident Winery, Hawk and Horse Vineyards, Calla Lily Estate, Meyye, Appellation St. Helena, Spring Mountain District Association and, on a pro bono basis, the Sunrise Horse Rescue, Jameson Animal Rescue Ranch, Nimbus Arts and The Cameo Cinema.

I hope to visit the Smiths and Kodmur in Napa before the 2024 Rodeo (February 27-March 17) and further explore their beautiful story. Also, I haven’t been on Spring Mountain since before the disastrous 2020 Glass Fire and I will likely find it a different place than I remember with such fondness. Fortunately, Smith-Madrone suffered no catastrophic infrastructure losses unlike several of their neighbors, but their forests were devastated. And many trees that didn’t burn had to be felled to prevent future catastrophes.

Smith said of his massive logging effort after the conflagration: “It breaks my heart to do this. The area where the timber is coming from was a beautiful Douglas fir forest. Now it’s not. To protect ourselves and the mountain, we need these trees gone.”

His mantra today? “Fire-safe farming.” Brilliant. Like his riesling.

The 2024 Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition champions, determined during a weekend of judging in mid-November, are listed below. To see the medalists, go to http://rodeohouston.com/rodeo-uncorked-wine.

• Grand Champion Best of Show – Beau Joie Brut Champagne AOC, NV
• Reserve Grand Champion Best of Show – 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling, Spring Mountain District
• Top Texas Wine – 2021 Meierstone Vineyards The Airship Red, Texas High Plains
• Top Red Wine – 2018 Marchesi di Barolo DOCG
• Top White Wine – 2022 Perissos Vineyards and Winery Winemaker’s Reserve Pape Blanc, Texas High Plains
• Top Sparkling Wine – Champagne Telmont Reserve Brut Champagne AOC, NV
• Top Dessert Wine – 2020 Quady Winery Essensia Orange Muscat, California
• Top Region Wine – 2022 TerraNoble CA1 Carmenere Andes, Colchagua Valley DO
• Top Value Wine – 2022 Animus Vinho Verde DOC
• Top Wine Company – E & J Gallo Winery
• Top Region Wine Company – Winebow Imports
• Top All-Around Winery – Nice Winery
• Top Texas Winery – Becker Vineyards
  rodeohouston.com/rodeo-uncorked-wine

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Alphonse Dotson

Russ Kane and our wives recently had a wonderful visit with Dotson, who was in Houston to check on his 105-year-old mother. Fifty years ago next May I met Dotson, who’s 80 himself now, for the first time. The Houston native had come out of retirement to play for the Houston Texans of the World Football League, which I’d been assigned to cover as a 21-year-old soon-to-be newlywed, and we hit it off straight away.

Those Texans didn’t last long — less than a full season in Houston — and I wouldn’t see Alphonse for a long while. But we reconnected years later when I found out he’d become a grape grower and winemaker in Mason County. Chardonnay from his Certenberg Vineyard helped Fall Creek Winery claim Grand Champion White Wine honors in the Rodeo’s 2017 competition. You can read the story I wrote about this remarkable achievement at https://www.houstonchronicle.com/food/article/Champion-rodeo-chardonnay-from-Texas-a-story-of-10981264.php.

Dotson is delighted to report that his mom is still sharp as a tack, and so is he, although he’s dealing with all the physical issues you would expect of an octogenarian ex-football player. Still, he insists he’s a long way from being finished as a winemaker and I believe him.

Check out what he and his lovely wife Martha have going on at http://dotsoncervanteswines.com. You’ll notice a striking similarity between his bottle label and the logo on the Raiders’ helmet. He may have also played for Kansas City, Green Bay and Miami, plus those hapless Texans, but Alphonse will always be a Raider. He loved Al Davis, and one of Davis’ ownership partners, who lived in Rutherford in the Napa Valley, was responsible for getting interested in wine.

I should also mention that Dotson’s son, Santana, was an NFL star in the 1990s and won a Super Bowl ring with the Packers.

H-Town happenings

Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com

Tastings Every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. $40 http://eventbrite.com

Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Sparkling wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Friday, Dec. 15. 2515 Harvard St. Free. http://eventbrite.com

The Rado Wine Club Tasting Experience: 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 16, at the Rado MKT. $50. http://eventbrite.com

Texas Wine Market: Noon-4 p.m. Jan. 24. Bluebonnet Tasting Room, 401 Commerce St., Tomball, $30 presale, $40 at the door. https://checkout.square.site/merchant/MLF89X8DCFFR0/checkout/SSO7TMRRWB7F5JCKE44MGPDX

Follow me

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

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Facebook: Dale Robertson

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. A new one, hosted by Jeremy Parzen (yep, that’s us pictured above, sharing a bottle of Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco in the Piemonte), will be dropping over the weekend. You can follow Parzen’s own blog at http://dobianchi.com.

Friends of mine to follow

Sandra Crittenden: http://winelifehouston.com

Russ Kane: http://vintagetexas.com

Jeffrey Kralik: http://drunkencyclist.com

Katrina Rene: http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com