-
I’m heading back to la belle France Tuesday with mixed emotions. As special as our little Alpine valley may be — can’t wait for those fall colors! — I’m going to be missing out on some great events in Houston over the next several weeks, including a 50-year reunion of the WHA Aeros and a gathering of Luv ya Blue Oilers to celebrate the completion of a documentary about Bum Phillips. I covered both teams for the Houston Post and they remain very dear to my heart. I’ll also be missing out on several wine tastings and winemaker visits.
But, hey, First-World problems, right?
Fortuitously, however, I was still here when Federica Rosy Boffa Pio paid H-Town a visit last week. Her story is remarkable, as of course are the family’s iconic Pio Cesare wines. It’s Federica’s show to run now — never mind that she’s only 25. And she was only 23 when she had to take over for her father, the larger-than-life Langhe legend Pio Boffa, who tragically died way before his time from COVID-19 complications in April of 2021.
She and her cousin, Cesare Benvenuto, who has been involved in the business since 2000, are fifth-generation proprietors. Poised and knowledgeable far beyond her years, Federica speaks proudly of the Pio Cesare team, adding “that’s why it wasn’t so hard” to step into her new role. Benvenuto may have two decades of experience, but he’s practically a new kid on the block compared to Paolo Fenocchio, who has been the enologist and head winemaker since the 1981 harvest.
Breaking news: The tasting tour that I’m leading through Italy’s Piemonte and Lombardy regions next spring (go to http://gourmettours.biz for the dates, itinerary and price) will now include a stop at Pio Cesare. Founded in 1881 by Cesare Pio, it’s the only one located in Alba proper and, hence, it’s the only one that can display the city’s crest on bottle labels as well as being the only a scant grandfathered-in few to produce Barolo outside the legal geographic confines of the DOCG.
The first time I visited Alba — in 1990 while covering the World Cup — I’d already concluded Barolo would forever be a go-to wine for me and Pio Cesare’s Classico was the finest I’d yet tasted. I wanted to go to the winery but, driving in circles, I was never able to find it. There’s no showy presence and the cellars, soon to undergo a significant expansion, are below ground, as all good cellars should be.
Better late than never, I will finally be paying a visit at Federica’s behest in October, getting a chance to taste some of Pio Cesare’s less widely distributed wines, including the beautiful, barrel-aged Fides Barbera d’Alba from the Mosconi Vineyard near Monforte d’Alba. (Pio Cesare also makes a single-vineyard Barolo from grapes grown on that prime piece of real estate.) Note that Fides means “faith” in the Piemontese dialect. The family has always highly valued its barbera wines and Federica promises it always will, which was music to my ears.
These days, producers in the Langhe these days are all too often inclined to pull out barbera and dolcetto vines to plant nebbiolo in order to make far more expensive wines. But, so many of those plots were time-tested for barbera and dolcetto and just don’t work as well for the higher-maintenance nebbiolo.
Federico is also putting her own stamp on Pio Cesare, having immersed herself in bringing a timorasso to the market in the near future. The once-obscure and almost extinct white grape from the Colli Tortonesi neighborhood in the province of Alessandria is trending big-time and she astutely embraced catching the wave.
Losing her father was traumatic when it happened, but the only way to honor his memory was to stay strong and attempt to fill his giant shoes. Like him, Federica enjoys traveling the world to promote the Pio Cesare brand, and she is already an old pro at handling the media attention she’s receiving.
“It is a great honor and I hope my father would be proud,” she told another writer last year. “At the very least, I know he would be happy that I am putting in 100 per cent of my passion, love, care and commitment every day.”
Oh, he’d be plenty proud, Federica.
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Coco Gauff
Just just 15 in the summer of 2019, Gauff defeated her idol, Venus Williams, and became the youngest woman to reach the fourth round of Wimbledon since Jennifer Capriati in 1991. Less than three years later, she reached the final of the French Open. But Gauff succumbed to the pressure of great expectations both times. In New York Saturday, however, she closed the deal, winning what should, or at least, could be the first of many U.S. Open titles. American tennis badly needs her to stay on form going forward. Ben Shelton, too. He was a surprise Open semifinalist this year. As you know, no American man has claimed a major championship since Andy Roddick in 2003.
H-town happenings
Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com
Tastings Every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. $40 http://eventbrite.com
Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Three Winemakers, Six-Course Wine Dinner: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 12, at Roma. $99. 713 664-7581.
Wine Tasting Event: 6-8 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 16, at The Classy Cork Wine Room. $65. 832-534-1900 or contact@theclassycork.com
Brunello, the Ultimate Sangiovese Tasting with Jeremy Parzen: 6:30-8:30p.m. Tuesday, Sept 19. http://eventbrite.com http://vinellowines.com
Chris Carpenter Wine Dinner: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 26, at Mastro’s Ocean Club in The Woodlands. $375 plus tax and gratuity. http://eventbrite.com
Paso Wine Is Headed to Houston: 6-8:30 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 28, at the Majestic Metro. $65. https://pasowine.com/consumer_events/tasting-tour-houston/
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My Podcast partner in crime writes: “On the morning of September 11, 2001, I was heading to the Atlantic Avenue stop to catch the 2 train that would take me to the Fernet Branca space. Before I left my apartment, I called one of my colleagues to confirm a 9 a.m. meeting. He screamed at me: “Are you fucking crazy? Turn on the TV!” And then he hung up. I went upstairs to my landlord’s apartment and we watched — in absolute disbelief and absolute horror — as the second tower was struck by the plane. Had I not called my colleague, I would have been traveling underneath the World Trade Center right around the time that the second plane hit . . . “
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “Like so many of the great wine regions of the world, a river runs through France’s Rhone Valley. The Rhone River shapes the landscape and lends its character to the wines grown there. Viticulture arrived with the Greeks in the Fourth Century BC, but flourished during the Roman Empire . . . ”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “
“We’ve had a phenomenal response to my first Level 2 Advanced Specialist of Texas Wine Course offering and held live via Zoom this past April. Level 1 STW graduates came calling. This first advanced Level 2 class was sold out in less than a month . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts) . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift.”
-
My circle of friends certainly does its part to keep the wine industry solvent, and my conscience is clear in that regard, too. But lots of folks who have traditionally guzzled wine are dropping the ball to the extent that the French are about to turn 80 million gallons of juice into pure alcohol for the purpose of making hand sanitizer, cleaning products and perfume, and they’re going to be spending some $215 million to do it.
Da hell?
The short explanation is that wine consumption continues to drop globally and the cost of making wine continues to go up, having been dramatically impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic and the war in Ukraine. The numbers don’t work, so eliminating surplus, France’s agriculture minister Marc Fesneau says, will help “stop prices from collapsing, so that winemakers can find sources of revenue again.”
In 1926, the average French person drank about 136 liters per year. Today, the number is closer to 40. Craft beers and cocktails are a huge part of the reason, but it appears people are also behaving more sensibly, damn them.
France has one of the fastest-growing non-alcoholic drinks markets, Susie Goldspink of IWSR Drinks Market Analysis told the Guardian in late 2022. “Last year, 14 percent of consumers said they were abstainers, whereas this year it was up to 20 percent,” she reported. “Abstainers in France are more likely than in other markets to be from the youngest age group, Generation Z.”
“We have an underlying issue of, ‘How do we better engage with the consumer and make wine more relevant, make wine a relevant choice for consumers that have a lot of options?’” muses Stephen Rannekleiv, the global sector strategist for beverages at Rabobank, a Dutch financial firm specializing in agribusiness.
France, particularly regions in the south such as the Languedoc, went through a similar crisis in the early 20th century when super-cheap Algerian grapes flooded the market and almost destroyed domestic grape-growers. AOC controls first put in place in the 1930s ultimately helped fix that problem, but there’s simply too much wine being made today. High costs — yes, climate change is also part of the problem — plus low demand does not equal a survivable profit margin.
Hence, fewer acres of French land than ever are being used to grow grapes for wine with the government compensating grape growers who rip out their excess vines. Bordeaux grape growers alone, according to the http://winespectator.com, are planning to tear out almost 23,500 acres of vines this year.
And it’s not just French vintners who are suffering. According to the European Commission, wine consumption in 2023 has fallen 34 percent in Portugal, 22 percent in Germany (the same percentage as in France), 10 percent in Spain and 7 percent in Italy. Some doomsayers predict a 20-percent drop in wine consumption by Americans over the next decade.
Most of my Baby Boomer wine buddies have turned 70 or are closing in that milestone, and our doctors insist that we slow down. Therefore, like it or not, we’ll soon become way more of the problem than the solution for our vintner friends. It’s projected that American wine consumption will drop 20 percent over the next decade. Personally, however, I’m going to keep raging against the dying of the light. I will NOT go gentle into the good night without a glass in front of me. No sir!
To sorta quote Willie Nelson, There are more old drunks than there are old doctors, so let’s pop another cork. In vino veritas!
What’s new
Fiora’s Bottle Shop
Natalie Navi, formerly the GM at Paulie’s, and Amir Sed have opened a very cool wine bar/sandwich shop in the Montrose Collective, near the intersection of Montrose Blvd. and Westheimer. Sean McNeely, whom many of us got to know during his tenure at Camerata next to Paulie’s, is the on-site sommelier/manager. Between 15 and 20 wines are available by the glass and some 50 by the bottle, for consumption on site or to take home. The sandwiches, made with Slow Dough bread, are killer — especially the GOAT, which presumably means what it does when people talk about Michael Jordan or Tom Brady . . . Greatest of All Time.
McNeely, FYI, wrote his Master’s thesis at the University of Houston’s Hilton College on sustainability in wine. Hence, Fiora’s happy hour selections will feature juice in cans kegs, and boxes.
KOI
From the folks who brought us Zen (http://www.zenjapaneseizakaya.com) on South Shepherd, it’s a couple blocks east of the Collective, in a dramatically reimagined space where Avondale Food and Wine, L’Olivier and, back in the day, a dirty book store where previously located. The food is upscale Japanese and the eclectic wines are well-chosen (by my great friend Amanda Hu, McNeely’s grad-school classmate at UH) to match the edgy cuisine. Loved the cocktail list, too. Try the Tokyo 75, an Asian take on a French 75, of course.
The Library
Jason Eubanks’ unique Spring Branch wine bar, located at 8510 Long Point, will in fact be a library with some 2,000 books about all things wine available for browsing while sipping on premise and a list with library wines front and center, including 1970s Bordeaux, 1960s Barolo and pre-World War II Madeira. Brennan Harmeier, whose previous postings locally include a’Bouzy and Ciel, will serve as general manager/wine buyer. A soft opening is coming this weekend.
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jose Altuve
The Astros’ little big man was having a rare so-so season largely attributable to injuries. But he recorded his 2,000th hit recently, then hit for the cycle for the first time in what will be a Hall-of-Fame career Aug. 28. Even after going 0-for-5 the next night — to quote Craig Biggio, that’s baseball — he’s still batting .316. He’s had seven three-or-more-hit games since July 30.
Pouring one out for . . . Dave Einsel
The former Chronicle photo chief had no peers when it came to shooting football and, back in the day, he had to carry his lab with him on the road with the Oilers. It was a different world, but Einsel, who passed away last week way too soon at 63, was a transcendent talent, a quiet, no-nonsense guy who let his work speak for itself.
H-town Happenings
Tastings Every Saturday at French Country Wines: Noon-5 p.m. Free. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tastings Every Wednesday at Montrose Cheese & Wine: 5-7 p.m. Free. http://montrosecheeseandwine.com
Tastings Every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. $40 http://eventbrite.com
Symposium Saturdays: 4-5 p.m. at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Grapes and Grooves Festival: 11 a.m.-11:45 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 2, at the Agora Haus. $70-$350. http://members.agorahouse.com
South African Wine Dinner with Winemaker Clayton Christians: 6:30 p.m. Monday, Sept. 11, at Central Market. $95. http://eventbrite.com
Three Winemakers, Six-Course Wine Dinner: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 12, at Roma. $99. 713 664-7581.
Wine Tasting Event: 6-8 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 16, at The Classy Cork Wine Room. $65. 832-534-1900 or contact@theclassycork.com
Brunello, the Ultimate Sangiovese Tasting with Jeremy Parzen: 6:30-8:30p.m. Tuesday, Sept 19. http://eventbrite.com http://vinellowines.com
Chris Carpenter Wine Dinner: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 26, at Mastro’s Ocean Club in The Woodlands. $375 plus tax and gratuity. http://eventbrite.com
Paso Wine Is Headed to Houston: 6-8:30 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 28, at the Majestic Metro. $65. https://pasowine.com/consumer_events/tasting-tour-houston/
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My Podcast Partner in Crime writes: “There’s a lot more to that deer in the photo (below) than meets the eye. I grabbed it from the Facebook of one of the Brunello producers that I will be presenting at a tasting September 19 in Houston, San Polino. The folks at San Polino have been instrumental in a new movement of winemakers who are rethinking the role of biodynamics in viticulture today. Their work is so compelling that Master of Wine Jancis Robinson has published their findings on biodiversity and mycelia (fungal networks) on her site.”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “While big, bold reds are a staple during the winter months, red wine can also be enjoyed all year, especially after chilling in an ice bucket or refrigerator. Many people are drinking their cabernet sauvignon too warm . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “If you’ve been anywhere around Texas wines for the past 15 years or so, either at the winery or in just about any major supermarket you’ve seen Becker Vineyards “Claret – Le Trois Dames”. For many years, this was my “gateway” Texas wine for people that ask me for a suggestion and wanted something they could easily find locally . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples —in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts) . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift.”
-
My focus today is on big-boy cabs — plus an all-the-boxes-checked merlot and two kick-ass malbecs — that I’ve tasted recently. I know, that sounds insane, given how poorly said wines tend to pair with our relentlessly oppressive heat. But each remains currently available on line, which might not be the case when you feel like drinking them in the dead of winter. In other words, don’t tarry.
Six of wines showcase some of the best mountain-fruit vineyards on both sides of Napa Valley and another is made from grapes grown high above Paso Robles. The provenance of two of the cabs and one of the malbecs is Mount Veeder.
2019 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon
From the winemaker: “a Deep ruby color with aromas of black plum, blackberry, fig and ripe cherry, framed by toasted oak and caramel. A hint of dried herb and floral notes. The concentrated fruit flavors and integrated tannins introduce a rich, full-body structure. Sweet fruit is balanced with acidity and savory notes of leather and wet stone, ending with a lengthy finish of dark berry, baking spice, and mocha.”
From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 92: “Ripe and fresh, with sassafras, sweet bay leaf and savory details that lead into a juicy, compact core of cassis and dark plum compote flavors. The modestly toasty finish lets the fruit and savory sides play out, while acidity and tannins underscore everything.”
From me: The three ranches on the Mayacamas slopes where the grapes grow are at elevations of 1,000 to 1,600 feet. When Mount Veeder came on line in 1970 it was the first winery in the area and the first California winery to plant all five of the primary Bordeaux varietals. This vintage includes four, missing only malbec.
$55 at http://mtveeder.com
2019 Peak Edcora Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
From the winemaker: “Showcasing the concentration and complexity of Edcora Vineyard, this wine offers remarkable depth and richness, with powerful aromas of wild berry, cassis, mountain sage, roasted coffee, graphite, smoke and sweet oak. On the beautifully structured palate, rich tannins and and a natural underlying density provide a sense of balance and cohesiveness to luxurious layers of dark berries and wild herbs, with notions of oak spice and adding sweetness and freshness to the dark fruit and volcanic minerality.”
From the International Wine Report, which scored it a 94: ” The wine begins with an inviting aromatic profile of ripe cherries, blackberries and red plums, which are laced with fresh-tilled soil, dried exotic spices, dried florals, herbs and suggestions of cigar box that all emerge from the glass. On the palate this is full-bodied, structured and well-balanced. It continues to impress with its wonderful concentration as well as a gorgeous combination of ripe red/dark fruits, herbs and earthy nuances that extend through the long polished finish. This is impressive in its youth, but should go on to evolve beautifully in the cellar over the course of the next decade.”
From me: Peak’s 78-acre Edcora Vineyard, situated well above the fog line on the eastern side of the valley, abuts the famed Stagecoach Vineyard and also features shallow, iron-rich volcanic soil atop a hard layer of volcanic andesite. The small, thick-skinned grapes are classic mountain fruit.
$175 at http://acumenwine.com
2018 Duckhorn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
From the winemaker: “On the nose, this stunning wine offers a bevy of mountain-fruit aromas including sweet baking spices, black raspberry, currant, and blackberry, with hints of anise, clove, and fresh mint adding nuance and complexity. On the palate it is robust and generous, echoing the aromas in waves of ripe dark berries and spice, with firm tannins and dusty minerality carrying the flavors to a remarkably long, lush finish.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 95: “So complex and beautiful now with blackcurrants, olives, bark, and oyster shells. Full to medium body. Resolved, velvety and juicy tannins. Then turns firm and beautiful. Drinkable now but will age beautifully.”
From me: Howell Mountain’s vineyards have long been my reference standard, offering the perfect terroir for growing cab and merlot. Wines made there as early as the late 1890s, when more than 600 acres were already under vine, earned a global reputation for excellence before Prohibition temporarily killed the party.
$109.99 at http://wine.com
2018 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles
From the winemaker: “Beck Vineyard, in the Creston District of Paso Robles, is a unique, high elevation site that sits at 1,700 feet above the early morning fog line. Its calcareous soils and cooling afternoon winds are perfect for growing cabernet sauvignon. The Cabernet from this vineyard ripens early with excellent color, purity of fruit and phenolic maturity. Incorporation of the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire brings density, color, and savory elements, while a small amount of Malbec contributes bright fruit notes to the finish. The hand-harvested grapes were destemmed and berry-sorted at the winery followed by a 12 percent saignée which brought concentration to the must prior to fermentation. A short, seven-day maceration revealed luxurious color potential with ideal tannin extraction before pressing.”
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 96: “Toasty aromas of charred pecan, cocoa nib and espresso give a savory edge to the blackberry-paste base of this luxury-level bottling. Smoothed-out tannins carry hearty flavors of coffee, cocoa and coconut on the palate, where dark fruit flavors carry deep into the finish.”
From me: Aged 20 months in new French oak, the wine was released on January 1 in honor of founder Jerry Lohr’s 85th birthday.
$109.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Kelly Fleming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “When poured, black cherry, wild raspberry, cedar and lavender aromas begin to emerge. With a bit of time in the glass, these aromas transform into cassis, plum and black licorice notes. The elegantly layered palate gives first impressions of black currant, kirsch, crushed river rock and cocoa dust. It offers finely integrated tannins and balanced acidity.
From me: It’s 100 percent cab, all of which grew in Fleming’s Estate vineyard near Calistoga. Aging also lasted 20 months with 85 percent of the juice in new French oak.
$185 at http://kellyflemingwines.com
2020 Priest Ranch Snake Oil Cabernet Sauvignon
From the winemaker: “It has a beautiful deep and rich ruby color. On the nose, there are pleasant complex aromas of earth and spice with notes of warm chocolate mocha. Hints of blueberry, black cherries, and berry cobbler immediately scream from the glass. This wine has muscular tannins that grip at the beginning and linger to a beautiful silky long finish. Although graceful now, you can cellar for 10 to 15 years.”
From me: The historic Priest Ranch, originally settled by Joshua James Priest in 1849, is now part of the Somerston Estate, which covers 1,615 acres with 222 of them under vine above Soda Valley. Aging of this cab lasted 24 months in oak, 75 percent of it new French barrels.
$110 at http://priestrachwines.com
2019 Brandlin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder
From the winemaker: “The wine is fruit forward with blackberry, and boysenberry notes intertwined with a bouquet of allspice, cardamom and black tea. On the finish, savory hints of cassis, tobacco and olive surf gracefully on the palate and are rounded out by an inviting bed of rich but supple tannins.”
From the Wine Spectator, which scored it a 94: “Very expressive, with zesty anise and apple wood mixed with sassafras and sweet bay leaf flavors, all backed by a dense, polished core of blackberry and açaí berry fruit. Features a hint of tar that adds spine and textural contrast to the finish. Big all around, but everything is well-proportioned.”
From me: The Brandlin family, having emigrated to California from Switzerland in the 1870s, settled on the steep, rocky slopes of Mount Veeder and felt right at home there. Five decades later, in 1926, Henry Brandlin planted his first vines . . . just in time for Prohibition. Things turned out fine, though. Note the provenance of the next wine. Steve Rogstad is on a roll.
$110 from http://brandlinestate.com
Malbec
2019 Brandlin Estate Malbec Mount Veeder
From the winemaker: “From a south-facing slope in the middle of our Brandlin Estate, our 2019 Brandlin Estate Malbec has a lovely bouquet of violets and sandalwood that give way to currant and boysenberry fruit with a hint of cocoa, camphor and black tea. The wine feels expansive, silky smooth and velvety on the finish, belying its mountain origins.”
From me: This beautifully expressive wine, which includes all of the Bordeaux varietals in the blend except merlot, spent 22 months in French oak, half of it new.
$75 at http://brandlinestate.com
2018 Corazon del Sol Gran Riserva
From the winemaker: “A beautiful expression of our finest Malbec barrels from a cooler vintage in Los Chacayes. Small berries and low yields resulted in balanced wines with vibrant acidity. Only a few barrels were hand-selected from our seven acres of estate fruit in pursuit of producing the highest quality malbec in the world.”
From Vinous, which scored it a 93: “Purple in the glass with a garnet sheen. The nose presents notes of fresh plum, hints of violet and aromas from the aging process such as cigar box, and hints of cherry, jam and thyme. It’s a nimble, juicy wine with a refined texture and finely grained tannins with compact freshness. The finish lingers at length.”
From me: Houston cardiologist Madaiah Revana initially made his mark with Revana Family Vineyard in Napa Valley and Alexana Vineyards and Winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, but a visit to the high Uco Valley on the Eastern side of the Andes in 2008 convinced him he needed to have a footprint in Argentina’s Mendoza neighborhood, too. Revana scored a major coup in securing the services of the famed Santiago Achaval as consulting winemaker.
$90 at http://corazondelsol.com
Merlot
2019 La Jota Vineyards Howell Mountain
From the winemaker: “The 2019 vintage unequivocally contributes to the rich story of Merlot grown in the volcanic soils of Howell Mtn. Rich and dense, the wine sings with flavors of plum, raspberry and graphite. Beautiful at this youthful stage, this Merlot will surely age gracefully over the next decade or two.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 95: “Lots of black olives with some conifer and mushrooms. Raspberries, too. Full-bodied with soft and round tannins. Really savory and juicy.”
From me: Chris Carpenter, who has overseen the La Jota cellar since 2005, used petit verdot and tannat to round out this intensely flavored, multi-layered merlot that more than lives up to this storied winery’s history. Winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain in 1888 and, a decade later, Frederick Hess established the La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.
$109.99 at http://wine.com
-
Casey Barber’s back story as it relates to wine makes little sense . . . until you have a sit-down conversation with her. Then it’s easy to grasp how she became one of the world’s least likely vintners, although perhaps a more appropos description of her seems to be “entrepreneur.”
But suggest that to her and she laughs out loud.
“Me? I’d never thought of myself as any kind of business person,” Barber insists. “That’s not me.”
Uh, we beg to differ. Barber doesn’t actually make Rose Gold, her Côtes-de-Provence rosé that has become one of Texas’ most popular summer sippers over the past five years and now has a foothold in 38 states with, by her count, 850 total store shelf placements in 38 states after recent big-deal sales to Targets and Total Wine outlets. The Omni Hotels made it their house rosé pour nationally last summer. Chef Charles Clark, who has become a good buddy, struggles to keep it in stock at his Brasserie 19 resto on West Gray.
Barber’s sales skills are impressive, especially considering that marketing is another self-taught, by- the-seat-of-her-blue-jeans skill set. Now 45, she studied nursing at the University of Texas-Tyler and assumed, at least early on, that her life’s work would revolve around health care.
Growing up country in Palestine, Texas, she had never tasted pink wine save for her mom’s white zinfandel until she went on her honeymoon to Provence in her mid-twenties. Subsequently, their marriage became a whirlwind of food- and wine-centric adventures. She confesses that they stalked Michelin-starred chefs at every turn, from Manhattan to Europe’s foody meccas.
Well, at least until in her early 30s when she gave birth to three beautiful children over a span of four years. Sadly, not long thereafter she and her husband split up. But from those lemons poured forth gallons of lemonade, pardon the mixed beverage metaphor.
“I’ve said this a thousand times,” Barber admitted. “My marriage didn’t last, but my love of rosé did.”
It was as a twentysomething newlywed on her honeymoon, not so far from where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie also thought they’d found their personal paradise with the purchase of Miraval, that she first tasted Provençal rosé at a café on the outskirts of Cannes. It was love at first sip – and sight. (Fortunately, Barber and her ex didn’t go down “Brangelina’s” nasty divorce path. Today they live “down the street from each other” in a leafy Dallas neighborhood and are coping with co-parenting duties just fine.)
“I can still picture it in my mind today, these tanned and beautiful French people, all of them drinking this wonderful pink wine morning, noon and night,” Barber recalled, wistfully. “I was immediately enthralled. Once you’ve been bitten by the food and wine bug, there’s no going back. It wasn’t a world I’d known nothing about before then, but Pandora’s box had opened.”
Still, it’s a giant leap from sipping somebody’s else vino as a stay-at-home single mother of three to hitting the streets and convincing prominent restaurants and retailers to listen you, Ms. Nobody, as you try to explain to them why they must carry your pink wine, a pink wine they’ve never heard of.
Being the first to admit she didn’t know what she didn’t know, however, Barber plowed bravely forth nonetheless, first finding a boutique production venue in St. Tropez to partner with – “I can only imagine what they were saying behind my back in French when I first came steamrolling in with my big ideas,” she said – and then bravely schlepping a Yeti full of wine from one resto to the next across Dallas, her proverbial hat in hand.
At least many of the sommeliers/managers she visited already knew her as a customer. Barber’s engaging personality and gorgeous countenance aren’t easily forgotten. As the cliche goes, she could have sold ice to Eskimos. But COVID-19 forced her to focus more on retail sales and, as the stats above would indicate, she keeps gaining more and more traction.
A 50-50 blend of grenache and cinsault, Rose Gold is both wonderfully evocative of sunny Provence and offers excellent value (under $18 at Spec’s/Richard’s cash price). The clean, elegant, raised-letter label – her design, of course – turns heads. So does the name, which evolved from her love for rose-hued gold jewelry.
“It’s the only kind I wear,” she said. “I knew somebody in the wine business and started batting around my naming idea with him. He gave me a 30-minute spiel about names and labels, but I told him I already had one. ‘What?’ he asked. ‘Rose Gold, I told him.’ He thought about it for a moment, then said, “Hey, that’s good, really good.”
Production of Rose Gold has doubled every year since the first vintage – 2017 – and has now reached 13,000 cases, with presumably greater quantities coming in the future, to keep up with demand. Fortunately, the Côtes-de-Provence has a bountiful supply of grapes. Those that go into Rose Gold come from vines around Cuers in the Var some 10 miles inland from Toulon with production at Maitres Vignerons Saint-Tropez.
Her winemaker? Florian Lacroux, the boss vintner at Saint-Roch-les-Vignes, and the man who brought Fleur de Mer to market for E. J. Gallo.
Barber, you see, didn’t try to re-invent the wheel. Rather, she simply reinvented herself. Now, if she could only clone herself, too. Barber remains a one-woman band.
“I could use 20 of me,” she said, laughing.
The hard work notwithstanding, the rewards speak for themselves. A huge ancillary benefit of being the woman behind Rose Gold is how many new friends she has made schlepping her wine. Clark for one, as previously mentioned. And she never doesn’t have a glass or two with Ruggles Black proprietor Neera Parador, another loyal supporter, when she’s in Houston (That’s Casey pictured above at the Ruggles Black bar) .
“You meet unbelievably cool people wherever you go – restaurant owners, chefs, bar managers, sommeliers. Barber said. “I’ve added hundreds of contacts in my phone. Some of my nearest and dearest friends today are because of Rose Gold. They tell me, ‘You’re great and your juice is good.’ Hey, that’s where the rubber meets the road.”
But nothing feels more satisfying, or makes her prouder, than when the kids come home wide-eyed from the grocery store and say, breathlessly, “Mom, guess what? They had a big display of your wine.’ There’s another level of emotion involved when your children can see and appreciate what you’re doing.”
Barber flies a lot, to say the least. Because, she says, “I always get cold” (and it’s also good marketing) on planes, Barber’s travel top of choice is a Rose Gold sweatshirt. Recently, while “zoning out” on the tarmac to take off from somewhere – “I think it was New Orleans,” she said. “We sell a bunch there.” – a woman lugging a carry-on down the aisle startled her by stopping and saying, “Hey, that’s my favorite wine!”
Flashing a Texas-sized smile, Barber replied, “Mine, too.”
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine
Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40 http://eventbrite.com
Pinor Noir Tasting: 5:30-7:30 p.m., Tuesday, Aug. 15, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com
Free Tasting: 6:30 p.m., Tuesday, Aug. 15, at Roma. 713 664-7581
Stella’s Wine Games: 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp
Cheers for Charity Benefiting Second Chances: 4-7 p.m. Saturday at Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Center. $75-$125 http://eventbrite.com
JMP Wine Night Featuring Hope Family Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 24. $75 http://eventbrite.com
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “Man, what a trip it was to roll up to my friend’s new bar on the Sunset Strip in LA . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Texas Native Grapes: Know Them, Grow Them… Cherish Their Worldwide Legacy – Part 1 (click here), we reviewed what are native grapevines, how they can benefit wildlife with cover and sustenance and humans providing grapes, jellies and jams, and wine. We also discussed how to identify some of the more common Texas native grape varieties in the wild. Now, we are moving on to the roles of Texas native grapevines in history up to modern day, and finishing with how to grow them . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “This morning, my wife and younger son, Sebastian, left me and my older son, Nathan, and took the TGV from Lyon up to Charles de Gaulle airport outside of Paris. Sebastian will be starting school this week in Houston and they therefore needed to cut their trip a little bit short. Nathan and I are soldiering on, as it were, and we are currently on a Frecciarossa train headed to Milan and then on to Lake Como. We will eventually make our way back to Lyon, where Nathan will be starting his semester abroad in about eight days.”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s another “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”
-
And this time we’re off to my favorite corner of Italy — the Piemonte — but with a few far-afield adventures, too.
We start in Turin and we finish in Milan. In between, we’ll be making an overnight excursion over a gorgeous high Alpine pass back into my neck of the French woods, the Ubaye Valley, before hunkering down in the environs of Alba for four days of winery visits and evenings spent enjoying exceptionally fine-dining. The Langhe, the Roero, Monferrato and the new Nizza DOCG will be our playground. In route to Milan, we’ll taste bubbles in Franciacorta and spend a night on Lake Como.
Until COVID shut down travel, I had made a pilgrimage to the Piemonte at least once a year from 1997 through 2019, then again in 2021 and 2022. I’ll have visited three more times before we begin our nine days in culinary/oenological heaven. As for Turin, I spent almost three weeks there covering the 2006 Winter Olympics. Believe me, there is no finer place on this planet to enjoy cutting-edge cuisine paired with Italy’s greatest wines and gorgeous scenery.
We’ll gather in Turin on Wednesday, May 22, and say our fond farewells in Milan on Saturday night, June 1. Lots of tweaking and fine-tuning remains, but, just to provide a sampling of where we’re going and who we’ll be seeing, a list of links for places that are certain to be on our itinerary are listed below.
It’s $7,750 per person — all inclusive once you’re on the ground, and only four of our maximum 10 spots remain. Contact Pablo Valqui (pablo@gourmettours.biz) to secure your reservation.
Hotels
http://villatiboldi.com (Shown above; It will be our base for four nights in the Alba area)
http://villamorelia.com (For our night in the Ubaye Valley, with a chef-prepared dinner at my home)
Wineries
http://ceretto.com (shown above)
http://malvira.com (adjacent to Villa Tiboldi)
Restaurants
http://enotecadelbarbaresco.com
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine
Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “Traveling across small-town country in the U.S. is always a reminder that an overwhelming number of Americans care little about fine wine. In big and medium-sized U.S. cities today, it’s almost impossible not to find at least a handful of venues where the wine program is thoughtfully authored and managed. But as our recent trip to Orange Beach (near Gulf Shores), Alabama revealed, even in popular tourist destinations like the pristine white beaches of the Alabama coast, wine is just another adult beverage like the tequila, vodka, and beer etc. restaurateurs use to fill their bar wells . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “
In the 1600s, Spanish missionaries heading north from Mexico brought vine cuttings to plant when they crossed the Rio Grande and entered the frontier land of Tejas, now called Texas. Their vines were Criolla, a cultivar of a European vinifera wine grape that made its way from Spain to Argentina and on upward to Mexico and finally into Texas. These days, many people just referred to the Criolla grapes by the name “Mission” because they were used to make wine for sacraments in the Catholic services at the missions. Fast forward to the 1970s, May 1974 to be exact, when a young UT grad and Houston marketing consultant Dean Joyner announced that his Haversack Wine Company would be opening its general office in Fredericksburg. He also announced that his wine company had a partner, a California wine producer. The goal was to begin a brand merchandising program built around the “haversack” theme. What’s a haversack? Well, read further and you’ll find out . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “At the beginning of August, our family hopped on a plane and left Houston for France. Although the purpose of the trip was to travel a bit and to deliver our older son Nathan to Lyon where he will be studying for the semester, it sure was nice to get away from the heat in Houston . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”
-
Updated August 2
We all have special wines that serve as reference points on our oenological journeys. Two of mine converged in Houston last week. Michael Honig conducted a tasting of his Hoenig wines (http://honigwines.com) at Double Decanted on Tuesday evening and David Gates, representing Ridge Vineyards (http://ridgewines.com), took the spotlight Thursday evening at Vault & Vino.
I first met Honig, pictured below, back in the late 1990s at his Rutherford winery on a trip with a restaurant friend. She had turned me on to the Honig Sauvignon Blanc, which, as it happened, was his best-known wine. Unfortunately, it still wasn’t that well-known because, he said, “Nobody wanted to drink sauvignon blanc in those days. Remember, Robert Mondavi changed the name of his to Fume Blanc.”
Things have changed, of course, although not the Honig Sauvignon Blanc. Or, better, sauvignon blancs. The 2021 Reserve ($38 at http://honigwine.com) really sings. To quote James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “The extraordinary interplay between fruit and oak creates a richly textured mid-palate that is seamlessly balanced on solid acidity and minerality.” Suckling suggests it will drink nicely through 2026, if not longer. The Honig cabs rock, too. Note that Fleming’s is featuring the Honig sav blanc this month ($13 for a glass, $57 for a bottle) as a surf & turf pairing.
Check out the website and you’ll see a picture of him on a tractor in 1984 at the age of 22 as he began the process of reviving what was then a failing winery. At 61, Honig’s still in the game, spending more time on the road spreading the good word than he does at the property. He loves meeting his customers almost as much as he loves drinking his wines.
Ridge, of course, is the stuff of legend. In the late 1950s, three Stanford Research Institute engineers pooled their resources to purchase a gorgeous plot of land high in the Santa Cruz Mountains above the Palo Alto campus. The land, bought for recreationally purposes only, came with an abandoned winery and a scraggly vineyard. But it produced enough grapes for the three “garagistes” to make a quarter of a barrel of damned good cabernet. by 1962, they had released a first official vintage and the rest is history. You can get all the details at http://ridgewine.com.
Gates, shown below, oversees the extensive vineyard operations for Ridge and has been part of the Ridge team since1989, which was about the time I was all in on the Ridge Zinfandels from Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and Paso Robles, and the Geyserville red blend. In fact, those were my go-to reds for at least a decade, until putting down roots in southeastern France turned my focus to the Southern Rhone and Italy’s Piemonte.
But it was a splendid tasting experience to revisit all of the above plus Ridge’s Chardonnay, Estate Cabernet and, of course, the big dog cab, Monte Bello. My discretionary spending budget never quite caught up with the latter’s price point (it’s now $250 at Spec’s) for me to become a regular imbiber, never mind collector, but there’s real value in the others. I will be reloading on my next trip to the Midtown store.
Another notable H-town visitor has been David Keck (pictured below), back in Houston on Tuesday to lead a trade seminar on Rhone Valley wines at the Art of Cellaring (http://artofcellaring.com). Keck, of course, became a leading figure in H-Town’s vibrant wine scene first as the somm at Uchi before running the show at Camerata and then laying the foundation for March’s extensive wine program.
In 2020, as COVID-19 was turning the hospitality industry upside down — and before March opened — he packed up and returned to his native Vermont to reinvent himself as a winemaker, “the most humbling experience I’ve ever had,” he concedes. But his Stella XIV Wines business (http://stella14wines.com) is helping put Vermont on the world’s wine map. You’ll find a nice story about Keck’s recent New England adventures at http://thinkvermont.com.
But subsequently things have gotten even more complicated. A hard freeze with frost on May 25 — May 25! — cost Keck 85 percent of his grape harvest for 2023. Therefore, he has taken a couple new “day jobs” such as partnering with groups such as the Rhone Valley Vineyards and working remotely for the AI wine-and-spirit firms http://preferabli.com to augment his income. His presentation was spot-on, of course. Keck knows his stuff and he’s a great entertainer. I thought I knew everything about the Rhone Valley. Boy was I wrong, and I’ll be sharing at least some of what I learned in a future blog.
I told Keck, “Don’t be a stranger. Come back and see us.” He promised he would.
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jim Crane, Justin Verlander and Framber Valdez
August has been a great month for the Astros through the years, but they never had a day in August like yesterday. Crane, the best and brightest Houston owner team in history by far, is always in it to win it NOW and that’s why Verlander returns after being on loan to the Mets for a few months. The news so juiced Valdez, who hadn’t pitched well of late, that he tossed a 93-pitch no-no at Cleveland, the Astros’ fifth in the last five seasons — an historic major-league first. (Yep, Verlander had one of those, too, on Sept. 1, 2019.) Framber’s gem was the 16th no-hitter in franchise history and left the now-quaking-in-their-boots Texas Rangers just a half game up in the division standings.
Raising a glass to . . . Mark Berman
My great friend and longtime press box colleague surprised me by retiring recently, although his timing was perfect — before the start of Texans training camp, because there’s nothing worse than covering training camp. Berman was the sports anchor at Channel 26 for more years than either of us care to count, but he was also the hardest working reporter on the local sports scene. Not for nothing did we call him “Scoop.” He broke more stories than the rest of his TV colleagues combined. While it’s hard to picture Berman kicking back in the recliner Mattress Mack gave him for a going-away present, he swears his been-there-done-that time had come. Cheers, Scoop!
And to . . . Lawson Craddock
The 31-year-old Houstonian’s first Tour de France start — and finish — since 2018 proved a memorable one. Riding for Team Jayco Ulula, he completed cycling’s greatest race for the third time in three career starts. A personal highlight would be his fourth place finish in stage 15, a brutal day in the Alps near Mont Blanc when he led a dramatic breakaway. And his team boss, Simon Yates, copped fourth in the yellow jersey standings. Although this Tour lacked the poignant drama of five years ago, when Craddock broke his scapula during the first stage yet still pedaled — in last place — all the way to the Champs Elysees over three agonizing weeks (raising nearly $300,000 to repair the Hurricane Harvey-damaged Alkek Velodrome in the process), he said it best himself: “If you make it to the Tour de France, you’re doing pretty well.” Damn straight, Lawson!
And to . . . Case Keenum
The onetime fancy-passing Houston Cougar has come full circle, coming home to the Texans, where his NFL career began 11 years ago. An undrafted free agent, Keenum never left the practice squad as a rookie in 2012, then went 0-8 as a starter during the disastrous 2013 season. But he won both his starts a year later before moving on to the Rams –playing in both St. Louis and Los Angeles — Minnesota, Washington, Cleveland and Buffalo. Replacing the injured Sam Bradford, he led the Vikings to the brink of the Super Bowl in 2017. Here, he’ll help mentor rookie top draft pick C.J. Stroud and serve as an all-around positive veteran presence in the Texans locker room. Fact is, Keenum should be raising a glass to himself, given that he’s also part owner of the Haak Vineyards & Winery down in Sante Fe.
But pouring one out for . . . Bob West
Another great sports journalist passed this week. West was a beloved and revered columnist in Port Arthur for decades and I had the privilege of spending lots of time with him back in the Luv ya Blue Oilers era. Nobody got closer to his fellow Golden Triangle homey Bum Phillips than Bob. RIP, my friend.
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “
Racially charged comments posted on Facebook yesterday by Friulian grape grower and winemaker Fulvio Bressan have sparked outrage in the online food and wine community.
In a statement evidently addressed to Italian integration minister Cécile Kyenge — Italy’s first African-Italian minister — Bressan offered his opinion on a recently implemented government program that provides temporary housing for undocumented immigrants . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Until earlier this year, Grüner Veltliner was not in my Texas wine lexicon. But, there it was. My first thought was how could this be so?After all, Austria is a cool winegrowing region, right? Texas is actually the opposite, being described politely as a “warm” winegrowing region, and less than politely as just “damn hot . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme. Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre) . . . “
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Sure, for those in the know, my title for this article is a no-brainer. But if you’re not in the know, please be sure to check out my article on the work that John Rivenburgh is doing through his Kerrville Hills incubator for the Texas wine industry. You can find it over at the Vintner Project: “John Rivenburgh & his Kerrville Hills Incubator Propel Texas Wine Growth.” I had a great time talking to John about what he does as well as getting the perspectives of others in the industry who have worked with him. He really is great for Texas wine . . .”
-
Updated July 22
I’ve had a great run of tasting experiences lately, including some remarkable reds. But, sorry, it’s too damned hot to talk about red wine today, although my fellow wine bloggers Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) and Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) both ferreted out smart options as you’ll read below. Anyway, these were my favorite bottles of bubbles and rosés, plus a lovely debut sauvignon blanc from my old friends at Alexander Valley Vineyards.
BUBBLES
Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra-Brut
From the winemaker: “A straw gold color and very fine bubbles. Its delicate hue comes from to the use of a high percentage of chardonnay (33 percent) and of the first pressing only. The first aromas reveal the citrus character of the chardonnay, such as lime and grapefruits. Red fruit aromas then come out, including redcurrant, raspberry, morello cherry – typical pinot noir (45 percent). On leaving the wine to open up, candied fruits, even exotic fruits of pinot meunier appear with aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is lively. The nose is confirmed by the first taste, including citrus, almonds, toasted bread and “brioche”… but also redcurrant jelly, and dark fruits like cherry, fig or blackberry. The palate is full, quite long, with a very clean finish. Elegant, but not without complexity, this wine perfectly illustrates the house style.”
From me: Paillard was born in Reims in 1953 into a family already several generations steeped in the champagne trade — but only as grape growers and brokers. He, too, began his career as a broker before, at the age of 27, launching the first new champagne house in his neighborhood in nearly a century. Fourteen years later he had done well enough to purchase his first vineyard, three grand cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Today, his daughter Alice runs the show. Their bubbles are as good as bubbles from Champagne get at this price point.
$60.99 at Spec’s
2015 Artesa Codorníu Grand Reserve Brut
From the winemaker: “Continuing the grand tradition of Cavas Codorniu, which dates back to 1872, this Brut was produced using old world methods, and taking benefit of the incredible quality of the grapes farmed in our beloved region of Los Carneros, Napa Valley. It displays beautiful, fragrant aromas of pear, honeydew and apricot. Uplifting citrus flavors and fine bubbles are wrapped in crisp acidity, yet the round, creamy mouthfeel that comes from the wines years of lees contact persists through a lingering finish. Over time, the sparkling wine will continue to develop complexity.”
From me: A friend introduced me to this sparkler, which is available only through Artesa, and I’ll be internally thankful for that. It’s a tad pricey for what can only be described as an American Cava but still worth every penny.
$60 at http://shop.artesawinery.com
Pierre Spar Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé
From the winemaker: “Salmon pink color with fresh aromas of soft red berries, predominantly strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, round and fruity with hints of peach. The flavors are intense, with lively acidity framed by a well-made structure and delicate bubbles. The finish is smooth, clean and dry.
From the Wine Enthusiast, which score it a 90: “Yeasty mellowness is all that the shy nose gives away. The dark-pink hue of this wine promises body and fruit, which duly appear on the creamy palate. Mellow strawberry and apple pair with gentle freshness. A chalky texture supports the frothy foam while freshness highlights the dry roundness of the finish.”
From me: Maison Pierre Sparr knows its stuff. The Sparrs have been producing cremant since 1680. Made from pinot noir grown in Alsace’s prestigious Hau Rhin, it’s a superb bargain. It’s yet another bottle of excellent bubbles introduced to me by a friend. No man is an island, right?
$21.99 at Whole Foods
ROSÉS
Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2021
From the winemaker: “A pink appearance like raspberry, expressive nose with notes of little red berries. On the palate, the wine is very balanced and in line with the nose. The palate is full with a long length. Good acidity provides a tense finale. Beautiful complexity, fine, fresh, fruity and elegant.
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “Pale garnet in color and gorgeously perfumed with blossoms and watermelon, this crisp, blackberry-flavored rosé juxtaposes zesty black fruit flavors against a deep, penetrating undertone of crushed stone and spice. A stately expression of Tavel that’s likely to drink beautifully year-round.”
From me: Tavel’s are unique because it’s France’s only AOC permitted to produce rose and rose only. Trinquevedel owner Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm these vineyards, which were purchased along with a ramshackle chateau by his great-grandfather in 1936. But it took 24 more years to get the grapes up to snuff. Note that it was Louis XIV who first put Tavel on the map. The pink wines from the sunny region were almost all the Sun King drank.
$19.79 from http://wine.com
2022 Scaia Rosato Veneto
From the winemaker: “This Rosato is a pink-hued wine made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella grape variety that is not often seen on its own. It’s fresh and floral and delightfully refreshing.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “A pale, tight and nervy rosé with aromas and flavors of apricot skin and orange peel. Medium-bodied with super-clean, crisp flavor. Nicely done.”
From me: The Scaia project, begun in 2006, was established by the four brothers behind Tenuta Sant’Antonio in eastern Valpolicella with the aim of creating wines with a modern style not constricted by the denomination system. Why Scaia? That’s a word in the Veronese dialect for crumbs, like little pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that break off the large block, which the soil resembles. It’s thought to impart a higher acidity and bolder fruit character to the wines.
17.99 at http://wine.com
WHITE
2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “There are aromas of tropical fruits, passion fruit, green apple, grapefruit and melon. Bright acidity is followed by fresh juicy flavors of citrus – lime, grapefruit, and lemongrass, along with a slight minerality. It’s a lively wine bottled with a stelvin closure to lock in the freshness.”
From me: The newest member of the AVV family — a double gold medalist in the 2023 North Cosat wine Competition — it was made from fruit grown in the Croft Vineyard, a unique parcel on the southern edge of the Alexander Valley that sits in a saddle 700 feet above the valley floor, allowing the fog from the coast to penetrate early in the morning. That cools off the vines and extends the hang-time for the grapes. Et voilà!
$24 at http://shop.avvwine.com (Or $26 at Porta’Vino)
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 26, at R-C Ranch. http://eventbrite.com $100
An Evening with Ridge Vineyards’ David Gates: 6:30-8 p.m., Thursday, July 27, at Vault & Vino. RSVP to JAMESBARLOW@SPECSONLINE.COM $50
Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “Thanks to my teaching gig at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, I’ve been making at least two or more trips to the region every year for the last eight vintages. That’s been great news for my Jewish boy stomach: Piedmont is home to what is arguably my favorite dish of all times — vitello tonnato . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “As long as it’s 76 F inside, I can pretend that it is late October with the low-humidity wind coming nicely out of the north. But, now… what wine? After a search of my wine cooler, I found it…”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Embarking on a catchup pinot noir tasting, the DC writes: “I am currently experiencing a phenomenon that I could not have fathomed a decade ago: I am awash in samples. According to my inventory, I am currently hovering around 200 bottles that were sent to me to taste. Since I am a bit of a math geek, I did some calculations: If I average going through 15 bottles a week (three a day—I try not to “work” on the weekend), that comes out to about 13 weeks of wine . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “If you’ve followed my adventures to Oregon wine country here and here (to name a couple) you know that I’ve got mad love for the wines of the entire state! Since the dreaded ‘Rona reared its ugly head, there has been so much going on there with some really notable changes. Of course, we were all locked down and some of it sorta went unnoticed. Emerging from the pandemic, the changes have continued. One of the big changes has been the creation of additional Willamette Valley AVAs. American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) is just a fancy way of saying a designated region. And for Oregon, it’s a big deal . . .”
-
Updated June 11
Back in February I was planning to write about Tony Parker’s buying a piece of the La Mascaronne winery in Provence, and we had a nice phone conversation about same. Despite his French roots, Parker gave most of the credit for his becoming a serious oenophile to Greg Popovich. The San Antonio Spurs coach was a super-serious collector and, to his credit, Pop wasn’t the least bit hesitant to pop corks on special bottles with his players.
But he proved real hesitant talking about same. The man is a superb coach with five championship rings, but he’s also intensely private away from the arena, and it didn’t help that Pop was enduring his worst season ever with the Spurs. I got nowhere trying to nail down a wine-centric chat with him, so my story stayed in limbo.
Fortunately.
Had it been written after our first interview, some rather significant stuff wouldn’t have made the piece, which finally ran Sunday in the San Antonio Express-News (Spurs legend Tony Parker toasts to the future (expressnews.com). In mid-March, the news broke that Parker would be going into the Basketball Hall of Fame this summer — along with Popovich. Then, in May, the Spurs won the right to make Victor Wembanyama the first pick in NBA draft.
Parker is France’s greatest basketball player ever. But, should he ever loses that title, it’s likely going to be claimed by the 7-3 Wembanyama, who, like Parker did back in the day, will make his NBA debut at 19 this fall. Needless to say, a second conversation with Parker would be required and it happened the morning after the Spurs called Wembanyama’s name.
Tony said he’d been doing interviews with French journalists for more than an hour before we hooked up and many more were scheduled. He promised to text me with the wines he’ll be tasting once he’s officially a member of the Hall of Fame — that happens Aug. 12 in Springfield, Mass. — and we discussed a rendezvous at La Mascaronne in September, when he’ll be there for his second harvest. My home in the Southern Alps is less than three hours from the winery, located in the Var above St. Tropez, and it’s a beautiful drive. Can’t wait to clink glasses with him.
But you don’t have to fly to Provence to taste the excellent La Mascaronne lineup. The wines are available in Houston at French Country Wines, 2433 Bartlett, in Rice Village (http://frenchcountrywines.com).
The Miraval mess
Speaking of Provence, If you’re curious about how Chateau Miraval devolved from being a very good under-the-radar rosé to mass-produced plonk, check out the latest issue of Vanity Fair: https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2023/06/brad-pitt-angelina-jolie-miraval-rose-divorce While the story is primarily about the nasty “Brangelina” break up, the inside stuff about the winery was fascinating, too. Key fact: Under Tom Bove, who sold Miraval to the now-divorced Hollywood power couple, production had been 150,000 bottles annually. When Pitt partnered with the Perin family (Château Beaucastel), Bove said it skyrocketed to 10 million. That explains everything.
In fairness, the wine has gotten better over the last couple of years, but it’s still way down on my list of favorite pinks from Provence.
Bove, by the way, was also the proprietor of La Mascaronne before selling that property to Parker and the French entrepreneur Michel Reybier. In its case, however, there has been no drop-off whatsoever in quality.
Breaking news
Pastore Italian kitchen (https://pastorehouston.com/) has finally opened on Dunlavy in the same complex as George James, but it’s hardly the casual red-sauce and pasta joint chef Chis Shepherd seemingly envisioned before he parted ways with his Underbelly Hospitality investors suddenly last year. Rather, it’s starkly sleek and sophisticated space with a seafood-centric “coastal Italian” menu and a small but tantalizing wine list presided over by sommelier Zach Newman, who was previously part of Mollie Austad’s wine team at Bluedorn.
Newman inherited the Pastore list and, although there’s nothing to fix, he’ll surely want to put his own stamp on it going forward. When I popped in recently with Jody Schmal, my former Houston Chronicle Flavor Section editor, Newman sold us on the Ca’ Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Edizione 45 from Franciacorta in Lombardy at $75. Bravo, Zach.
“Pastore,” fyi, means “shepherd” in Italian and Georgia James is, of course, Shepherd’s mother’s name. So he’s still part of same, even if he isn’t.
Sippin’ with Sporty
Pink
2020 Natura Rosé
From the winemaker: “Fragrance reminiscent of bunches of fresh strawberries. Bright, fresh red fruit flavors are silky and elegant on the palate. Slightly off-dry with good acidity. Delicate and easy to drink.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Pristine, Pure and the freshest rosé possible. The organically grown grapes are handpicked in March, sorted and then directly pressed. Vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with gentle pump overs and delicate lees stirring. The wine is aged for three months in stainless steel tanks and is filtered prior to bottling. Bright light pink. Bouquet: Intense fruity aromas, such as cherry and black currant. Taste: Good body, silky and elegant on the palate. Tremendously fresh, fruity, and balanced. Delicate and easy to drink.”
From me: What he said, and what a price! I love Costco.
$9.49 at Costco
White
2021 Laird Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “The eye-catching clear white gold color is followed by tantalizing aromas of lemongrass, key lime pie, guava, and lilikoi. The palate is a continuation of the aromatic journey with flavors reminiscent of Thai basil, grapefruit, white peach, and elderflower. This wine is gleaming with lively acidity and rounded out by a strikingly smooth finish.”
From me: From what’s truly a family operation that dates back to 1970, when Ken Laird bought a 70-acre plot covered with scraggly prune trees on Tubbs Lane near Calistoga, it’s a splendidly fruit-forward gem made from sav blanc fruit grown in Napa Valley’s Big Ranch Vineyard.
$30 at http://lairdfamilyestate.com
Red
2021 C. L. Butaud PaPa Frenchy Red Wine
From the winemaker: “Soft sandalwood, taut black cherry, and graham cracker crust aromas give way to a spirited palate, elevated by gentle acidity. There is a focused texture on the entry that migrates to the edges of your mouth, with bright red fruits from the grenache (60 percent), herbed ham flavors from the mourvèdre, and sweet tobacco from the tempranillo. The succinct and structured finish is reminiscent of the crispness of fresh strawberry seeds.”
From me: The wine, and the winery’s name, is an homage to winemaker Randy Hester’s great grandfather, Clet Louis Butaud, whose friends called him “Frenchy.” Frenchy would be proud of this bottle, which represents outstanding value.
$18 at http://clbataud.com
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Women of Wine Charities 9th Sangria Throwdown: 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 12, at Mercedes Benz of Houston Greenway. https://www.wowcharities.org/sangria2023/ $95
Avignonesi Wine Dinner with Giuseppe Santtarelli: 7 p.m. Wednesday, July 19, at Roma. 713 664-7581 $99
Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.
Nickel and Nick Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “What an incredible year it’s been already! From Lucciola in New York City to The Wine Country in Long Beach, California; from Pasta And… in Margate, Florida to Cry Wolf in Dallas and Davanti in Houston. Over the last six months, I’ve had the opportunity to interact with some of the brightest and best people in our business . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “I made an interesting comparison between what I called our Texas red sandy loam over porous caliche limestone and the coveted red sandy loam and limestone found in the Australian Coonawarra wine region that they called “Terra Rossa”. Literally the next day from half the world away, I received a comment to my blog coming back at me from seasoned wine critic Philip White who has written for Australia’s major newspapers and many magazines worldwide. White said that I had a bad case of “Coonawarra Envy . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “When I first started writing about wine, I really never envisioned that wineries would actually send me wine to review on this site. Sure, I secretly hoped it would happen, but I really harbored no illusions that my furtive desire would come to fruition. Fast forward nearly a dozen years into this blog and I still am a little flabbergasted that I receive wines on a regular basis. While I genuinely feel fortunate to receive any wines from producers, there are certainly some boxes that elicit euphoria, and at the top of that list is Tongue Dancer Wines . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Oh Zinfandel, I was wrong! Zinfandel, America’s Heritage Wine, as it is referred to by some, is literally living American history. As a person who legit went out of her way to avoid Zinfandel, my anti-Zin stance started to thaw several years ago when I attended a master class on the grape and got to experience several iterations of the wine from various producers. Before then, a couple of bad experiences made me (wrongly) assume that Zin was just an alcoholic fruit bomb with very little substance or complexity. While I was indeed thawing, I still wasn’t all the way there. However, after attending a three-day wine and food extravaganza dedicated solely to Zinfandel . . .”
-
We got the band back together last week, which is to say my Chronicle panel convened for a too-long-in-coming reunion. But this was real work like in the good old days, not an excuse to have a party. We blind-tasted our way through 36 wines and the stars of the show follow, scored as always on my 20-point scale — a maximum of 10 for quality (average score from the panelists) and 10 for value, which I assign.
2022 Kirkland Cotes de Provence Rose
Score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)
From the http://costcowineblog.com: “Nice strawberry, peach flavors with a little orange creamsicle twisted in. Light to medium in body. Crisp and refreshing; just what you want in rosé, and pairs nice with warm weather, but can go with about anything.”
From our tasters, eight of whom scored it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Fresh, with a touch of salinity. A dry classic rose.”
From me: It’s grenache/cinsault-centric (two-thirds of the blend) with syrah, carignan, tibouren, vermentino and ugni blanc playing strong supporting roles. Offers off-the-charts value in this bottle, folks
$7.99 at Costco
2021 J. Lohr South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles
19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “Deeply colored with vibrant purple and magenta hues. Varietal aromas of black cherry and fresh blueberry are accented by black tea, bergamot, and lilac. The juicy and spicy structure of this northern Rhône cultivar is lengthened and lifted by the inclusion of grenache, mourvèdre, roussanne, and viognier.”
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral nose. Ripe fruit on the palate. Chewy tannins. Delicious.”
From me: Another screaming steal at this price. Fifteen bucks? Are you kidding me?
$15 at http://jlohr.com
2022 Rouge-Bleu Dentelle Mediteranée Blanc
Score: 19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “Named after our local mountain chain, Dentelle is a fruit driven, ready to drink wine which will charm wine connoisseurs and novices alike by its elegance and approachability.”
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral and fruity. Apple and spice notes.”
From me: Rouge-Bleu, in the Sainte-Cecille AOC on the Rhone Valley floor, proved an excellent stop on my recent South of France wine tour. This bargain gem is a kitchen-sink blend of vermentino, marsanne, clairette blanc, roussanne, viognier, grenache gris, bourboulenc, grenache blanc, gros manseng, chenin blanc, muscat petits grains, carignan blanc and picpoul.
$20 at French Country Wines in Houston
2020 Greenwing Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “This vivacious cabernet sauvignon displays enticing aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, loamy earth and a hint of desert sage. The bright red berry layers are echoed on the lively palate, with supple tannins and juicy acidity framing the generous fruit and carrying the wine to a long, graceful finish.”
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.2: “Ripe dark fruit, pronounced tannins. Spicy!”
From me: The Columbia Valley is located between the 46th and 47th parallels, the same as Bordeaux (and Burgundy). Winemaker Brian Rudin couldn’t have asked for better cabernet terroir than he’s got in the wilds of Eastern Washington.
$33.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)
From the winemaker: “This lush and alluring cabernet begins with aromas of ripe strawberry, grenadine and Bing cherry that leap from the glass, followed by notes of sarsaparilla, root spices, black licorice cinnamon and star anise. On the palate it is both luxurious and energetic, with plush tannins and ripe red berry flavors balanced by enlivening energy and sophisticated hints of cigar wrapper, granitic minerality and sweet baking spices.
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Lively nose and palate. Casis and dark berry flavors.”
From James Suckling, who awarded at score of 92: “Aromas of grated nutmeg, black and red currants and wild herbs. Full-bodied with firm tannins. Fresh acidity and ripe fruit create a pleasant dynamic on the palate. Well balanced.”
From me: Like it’s Duckhorn brethren Greenwing, it’s named for a duck. It’s also made by Rudin, who clearly has a great grasp of his great terroir.
$36.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Decoy Limited Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)
From the winemaker: “This alluring pinot noir offers vibrant aromas of red cherry and raspberry, as well as hints of savory spices and forest floor. On the palate, silky smooth tannins and refined notes of toasted French oak accentuate the lush flavors, while carrying the wine to an elegant red berry and spice finish.”
From our tasters, five of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Full-bodied, well-balanced. Should be age-worthy.”
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 90: “Working with vineyards from Green Valley, Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap, this wine is juicy, delicate and citrus-driven in style, laced with strawberry, pomegranate and grapefruit tones. The tannins build on the midpalate as a toasted oak accent provides lushness to the finish.”
From me: Pinots at this price point don’t get much better. But the California Decoy from the 2021 vintage didn’t do badly either, earning five scores of 9 or higher, and it’s five bucks cheaper.
$30 at http://decoywines.com
2019 Cuvaison Small Lot Arcilla Merlot Napa Valley
18.3 (9.3 quality, 9 value)
From the winemaker: “Our 2019 Merlot Arcilla is a powerhouse style of Merlot, rife with black cherry, sandalwood, coffee, and cocoa nib notes. On the palate the wine is expansive and rewards with cherry and blackberry fruit, silky tannins, and an earthy, spicy finish that is both savory and inviting. Emblematic of a cool vintage, this merlot, rooted in Arcilla clay soils, shows the richness and elegance of merlot perfectly matched to its terroir.
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Round and ripe with blackberries and mint flavors front and center.”
From me: Pay attention to the “small lot” designation. Fewer than nine cases were made so it won’t be available for long.
$70 at http://cuvaison.com
2019 Emeritus Pinot Noir Pinot Hill East
18.2 (9.2 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “Like Pinot Hill itself, this wine seems to exist on that borderline between cool coastal fog and wind and the fleeting warmth of the sun. The influence of the Pacific is echoed in the mélange of sweet and savory flavors, with aromas of ocean air and dried strawberries mingling with notions of sesame oil and sunflowers. The tannins are taut like a bowstring, providing a flexible quality that adds energy to the rich red berry flavors as they glide to a bright, soaring finish. This is a fabulous food wine that should be served just a touch warmer than cellar temperature.”
From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Rich, ripe and savory . . . Complex.”
From me: All four Emeritus pinots in the tasting — Hallberg Ranch, Pinot Hill and Pinot Hill West were the others — scored extremely well, but the East proved best. In case you’re wondering, Pinot Hill is in the Sebastopol Hills southwest of the town of Sebastopol, the coolest sub-region of the Russian River Valley.
$78 at http://emeritusvineyards.com
2022 Fiddlehead Cellars La Pressa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Los Osos District
18.1 (9 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “Sauvignon Blanc yearns to be wild, but has such extraordinary style when it is tamed. With our over 30 years of refinement, we know this sweet spot of warmer days and cool evenings nurtures balance in our wines. I am excited to return to this historic old vine source that I worked with 25 years ago, and to bring this Old World Varietal back to its graceful expression.”
From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Bright and lively with expressive minerality and acidity.”
From me: Fiddlehead Cellars’ Kathy Joseph, a Santa Barbara County wine-making pioneer, describes her oak-barrel-aged sauvignon blanc style as being “textural.” What it isn’t is “green.” (Which is to say New Zealand sav blanc.) Fans of the movie “Sideways” will recall Joseph conversing with Paul Giamati’s Miles character about the Fiddlehead Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc. She tells him it spent 12 months in oak. He replies, “This is good. Little hints of cloves.”
$36 at http://fiddleheadcellars.com
2019 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley
18 (9 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “This is an elegant wine with earthy aromas of cassis, plum, black cherry, vanilla, oak, chocolate and a slight cola note. In the glass there are lush flavors of cherry, cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The 2019 is a structured wine with firm tannins and a chewy finish that evolves with each sip. While fruit forward upon release, this wine will reward those with the patience to lay down a few bottles.”
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Yummy blackberries.”
From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 91: “Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Lean and focused on the palate with solid depth. Dry finish. Drink now.”
From me: Jordan remains a reference-standard cab for me. After 13 years working in the winery’s cellar, Maggie Kruse made her winemaking debut with this vintage and she nailed it.
$60 at http://jordanwinery.com
H-town Happenings
Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40. http://eventbrite.com
Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com
Truly Greek, Truly Unique Wine Tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, July 13 at JMP Wines Tasting Room. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “From my colleague Nicola Perullo at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont to leading sommelier and author Pascaline Lepeltier in New York City, wine thinkers across the world are trying to forge a new language — a new dialectic — to describe the tasting experience. If ever the twain were to meet, I doubt they would agree on much — except for one thing: the hegemony of the 20th-century tasting note (and score) must be disrupted for Westerners to continue to evolve as tasters . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “About a week ago, Austin-based Denise Clarke and her Texas Fine Wine wineries had another of their quarterly Talk and Taste sessions on Zoom. This one was “Summer Sippers” and offered wine suggestions for quenching our summertime thirst. And, it couldn’t have come at a better time as in Houston we are moving into the 100-102 F range and in the hill country temperatures are blazing at 105-107 F… It’s bloody hot all over the state, if you ask me. Check out these four “Summer Sippers”, a quench from Texas Fine Wine . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “I am out of town again this week, first in San Diego as a wine judge for the Critics Challenge and then to Austin for another basketball tournament. As I usually do when I am out of town, I revisit a Sundays Are For Sebastian, our fourteen-year-old soon-to-be sophomore in high school(!). This one comes from four years ago when he was ten . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “And just Iike that – it’s June. School is out. Thank God! And I swear it seems that EVERYONE is on vacay! I definitely need to join them. If you’re headed out to Texas Wine Country, there are plenty of fun events. In fact, I need to give a special shoutout to Texas wineries. Their wines performed amazingly well as last month’s 2023 TEXSOM International Wine Awards, taking home 168 awards. Texas wine continues to shine . . .”
-
Truth to tell, tours aren’t my thing. When it comes to travel, I tend to be a lone ranger, setting my own schedule as I go. But my recent Gourmet Tours (http://gourmettours.biz) adventure in the South of France with my buddy Pablo Valqui and a lovely mix of new and old friends changed my thinking. By the end of our nine days together, having tasted our way through Provence, the Languedoc and the Rhone Valley with urban detours to Marseille and Nice in the mix, too, we felt like a team. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
In fact, I will do it again next spring, exploring my other co-favorite wine region, Italy’s Piemonte. Save the dates: May 22-June 2. We’ll fly into Turin and out of Milan with time set aside to tour both great cities. My favorite wineries (Ceretto, Oddero, Bruno Rocca and Marchesi di Gresy, to name a few) are certain to be in the mix, as will visits to several Michelin-starred restaurants and other fascinating places. Fact: Alba’s eateries have more etoiles on a per-capita basis than any town in the world. So watch this space. Details to come!
But, before moving forward, permit me to look backward for a moment. Here’s a list with links to the must-visit wineries and restaurants we experienced in France. I’d happily return to every one of them again and again.
Wineries
Chateau La Mascaronne (Var): Owned in part by basketball Hall-of-Famer Tony Parker, the property sits in a gorgeous natural amphitheater a short drive inland from St. Tropez. (www.chateau-lamascaronne.com) These superb wines are sold in Houston at French Country Wines (www.frenchcountrywines.com).
St. Pierre de Mejans (Luberon): Houston-area native Wendy Gobbi and her husband took over this property a couple years ago and have turned it into both a prime tasting venue and a luxury auberge, housed in a small chateau that dates to the 12th century. (http://saintpierredemejans.com). The wines can be purchased here through http://aocselections.com)
L’Hospitalet (La Clape): Unfortunately, it’s only Gérard Bertrand’s entry-level Languedoc wines are easily found on Houston shelves, but searching for the high-end offerings will be well worth your time. The Clos d’Ora GSM from the Minervois should sell for $250 because it’s absolutely that good. (http://gerard-bertrand.shop)
Chateau de Luc (Corbieres): This was the find of the trip and all credit to to Pablo for that. He picked it. The Fabre’s wine-making family goes back 14 generations and the current twin sisters who are the public face of the place, Jeanne and Clemence (pictured below), were equal parts delightful and super wine savvy. I learned more about the Languedoc’s star-crossed wine-making history in an hour with Jeanne than I knew before I arrived. And the wines should soon be in the Texas market. A family member has relocated to Austin. (www.famillefabre.com)
Domaine Rouge-Bleu (Saint Cecille): Thomas Bertrand (pictured below), who learned the wine business on the sale’s side while living in the UK, and his winemaker wife Caroline Jones, who hails from Australia, are doing great things using non-interventionist farming methods on their Rhone Valley floor terroir. http://rouge-bleu.com Their offerings can also be found in Houston at French Country Wines.
Chêne Bleu (Ventoux/Vaucluse): The gorgeously restored property, built on the bones of medieval monastery that later became a renowned glass-blowing factory, is also set in a natural amphitheater in the hills near Crestet to the east of Mont Ventoux. New Yorker Nicole Rolet, who presides over the operation, is a force of nature. The biodynamically made wines have re-defined the possible for this often-overlooked AOC, and there’s a luxurious villa for rent on site. (http://chenebleu.com)
Domaine de Mourchon (Seguret): I’ve known Walter McKinlay and his wife Ronnie for more than 20 years and have made frequent pilgrimages to the Mourchon tasting room, so it was a special treat to visit with new friends. McKinlay’s daughter Kate capably presides over the winery these days. Note that the hilltop villa on the property is now available for rental. With spectacular views of Mont Ventoux and the Baronies range to the north, I can’t imagine a finer wedding venue . . . Well, let’s call it a tie with Chêne Bleu’s.
Domaine de Cabasse (Seguret/Sablet/Gigondas): I knew it only as a hotel before our visit, but the grenache-centric wines (white and red) are excellent, very well-priced and can be found on the shelf at Spec’s. Owner Benoit Baudry is a charming raconteur, too.
Restaurants
Each gets a hearty two-thumbs-way-up recommendation from me. They range in style from super casual (Cambuse du Sanier) to tres elegante (L’Oustelet). I can’t personally vouch for three other stops the group made because I had a different itinerary those days, but everybody said they were excellent, too, with La Ferme Marine on the coast in Marseillan (www.lafermemarine.fr) receiving especially high marks. I’m proud to say we batted 1.000 on both food and wine.
Le Pigonnet (Aix-en-Provence): Elegant, refined and creative dining in the most stylish of settings. The spacious outdoor garden is even more gorgeous, but rain threatened, dang it. www.hotelpigonnet.com
Domaine du Lac (Le Luc): Wonderful patio with vineyard views. Hearty portions and happy servers. www.hoteldomainedulac.com
1860 Le Palais (Marseille center): Excellent terrace with city views, with an excellent bakery attached. Very close to the Old Port. 1860lepalais.fr
Les Bain Bars (Marseille seashore): Hipster heaven with a fine view of the sea and the islands just off the coast. lesbainsmarseille.com
Refuge de la Cure (Ubaye Valley): Chef Hubert Longeron proved to be a huge hit cooking in my kitchen. His charming, remote gîte wasn’t yet open, so he came to us instead. maljassetgite.fr
L’Art de Vivre at L’Hospitalet (le Clappe): Checked all the fine-dining boxes. www.restaurant–art–de–vivre.com
Fontfroide Abbey Restaurant (near Narbonne): Relaxed dining in a lovely setting adjacent to the famous abbey. Super-friendly servers. www.fontfroide.com
Cambuse du Saunier (Gruisson): A lively crab shack adjacent to the salt beds with a postcard view of the lagoon. www.lesalindegruissan.fr
Restaurant des Fines Roches (Chateauneuf-du-Pape): Another great terrace with vineyard views. chateaufinesroches.com
L’Oustolet (Gigondas): A place I’ve dined at numerous times, it owns a well-deserved Michelin star. www.loustalet-gigondas.com
Le Mesclun (Seguret): Set in the heart of Seguret, one of France’s most beautiful villages, with vineyard and sunset views. www.lemesclun.com
Le Panier (Nice): A cozy bistro with a family feel and an urban vibe. www.restaurantlepanier.com
Sippin’ with Sporty
No touts for you today — I’ve been trying to give my liver a rest — but a bunch of them will be forthcoming in the weeks ahead. On Monday night, I’m hosting a Porta’Vino reunion of my tasting panel that served me and the Houston Chronicle so well for so many years. Same folks, same format, which is to say some 40 wines will be sampled blind, then scored on a 20-point scale taking into account both quality and value. It’s a fail-safe process. Recommendations coming!
H-town Happenings
Classy Cork Room Old World wines tasting: 6-8 p.m. Saturday, June 17 at Classy Cork Room. $65. 832-534-1900 or http://contacttheclassycork.com
Duckhorn wine dinner: 7 p.m. Friday, June 23, at the Oceanaire Seafood Room. $175. http://eventbrite.com
Marchesi Antinori wine dinners: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, June 22, through, Saturday, June 24 at Potente. $275 plus tax and gratuity. http://eventbrite.com
Six-year vertical tasting (2014-19) of SERCA Gran Corte: 4 p.m. Saturday, June 24, at SERCA Wines Tasting Room. $80 ($64 for club members). http://eventbrite.com
Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . the Nuggets and the Knights.
First-time champions in the NBA and NHL respectively, they gave us a break from the same ol’ same ol’ this season. Amazingly, though, there are still 10 NBA franchises and 11 in the NHL never to have claimed a title. The corresponding numbers for the NFL and MLB are 9 and 6 respectively.
Pouring one out for . . . Bob Hyde
The longtime Oilers/Titans PR man, who passed away recently after a long battle with cancer, was the very definition of an old-school good guy. I met him for the first time when he was interning with the Oilers in 1977, my second year covering the team. From that summer on, we never exchanged a cross word, no easy feat given the dynamics of what’s so often a tense relationship. RIP, Bob.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime talks about testing AI’s capabilities with his Slow Food University students. He also bids a not-fond farewell to Silvio Berlusconi, the clownish, corrupt former Italian prime minister who died recently.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra reports on her recent whirlwind tour of Prosecco country.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger veers out of his lane a bit to talk about Georgia wines. As in Georgia the state, not the former Soviet republic.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC provides a crash course in Uruguay’s wine landscape.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat suggests the perfect wine pairings for a range of summer activities.
The Sporty Wine Guy
All things wine… but a little sports talk, too
The Sporty Wine Guy 