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And this time we’re off to my favorite corner of Italy — the Piemonte — but with a few far-afield adventures, too.
We start in Turin and we finish in Milan. In between, we’ll be making an overnight excursion over a gorgeous high Alpine pass back into my neck of the French woods, the Ubaye Valley, before hunkering down in the environs of Alba for four days of winery visits and evenings spent enjoying exceptionally fine-dining. The Langhe, the Roero, Monferrato and the new Nizza DOCG will be our playground. In route to Milan, we’ll taste bubbles in Franciacorta and spend a night on Lake Como.
Until COVID shut down travel, I had made a pilgrimage to the Piemonte at least once a year from 1997 through 2019, then again in 2021 and 2022. I’ll have visited three more times before we begin our nine days in culinary/oenological heaven. As for Turin, I spent almost three weeks there covering the 2006 Winter Olympics. Believe me, there is no finer place on this planet to enjoy cutting-edge cuisine paired with Italy’s greatest wines and gorgeous scenery.
We’ll gather in Turin on Wednesday, May 22, and say our fond farewells in Milan on Saturday night, June 1. Lots of tweaking and fine-tuning remains, but, just to provide a sampling of where we’re going and who we’ll be seeing, a list of links for places that are certain to be on our itinerary are listed below.
It’s $7,750 per person — all inclusive once you’re on the ground, and only four of our maximum 10 spots remain. Contact Pablo Valqui (pablo@gourmettours.biz) to secure your reservation.
Hotels
http://villatiboldi.com (Shown above; It will be our base for four nights in the Alba area)
http://villamorelia.com (For our night in the Ubaye Valley, with a chef-prepared dinner at my home)
Wineries
http://ceretto.com (shown above)
http://malvira.com (adjacent to Villa Tiboldi)
Restaurants
http://enotecadelbarbaresco.com
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine
Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “Traveling across small-town country in the U.S. is always a reminder that an overwhelming number of Americans care little about fine wine. In big and medium-sized U.S. cities today, it’s almost impossible not to find at least a handful of venues where the wine program is thoughtfully authored and managed. But as our recent trip to Orange Beach (near Gulf Shores), Alabama revealed, even in popular tourist destinations like the pristine white beaches of the Alabama coast, wine is just another adult beverage like the tequila, vodka, and beer etc. restaurateurs use to fill their bar wells . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “
In the 1600s, Spanish missionaries heading north from Mexico brought vine cuttings to plant when they crossed the Rio Grande and entered the frontier land of Tejas, now called Texas. Their vines were Criolla, a cultivar of a European vinifera wine grape that made its way from Spain to Argentina and on upward to Mexico and finally into Texas. These days, many people just referred to the Criolla grapes by the name “Mission” because they were used to make wine for sacraments in the Catholic services at the missions. Fast forward to the 1970s, May 1974 to be exact, when a young UT grad and Houston marketing consultant Dean Joyner announced that his Haversack Wine Company would be opening its general office in Fredericksburg. He also announced that his wine company had a partner, a California wine producer. The goal was to begin a brand merchandising program built around the “haversack” theme. What’s a haversack? Well, read further and you’ll find out . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “At the beginning of August, our family hopped on a plane and left Houston for France. Although the purpose of the trip was to travel a bit and to deliver our older son Nathan to Lyon where he will be studying for the semester, it sure was nice to get away from the heat in Houston . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”
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Updated August 2
We all have special wines that serve as reference points on our oenological journeys. Two of mine converged in Houston last week. Michael Honig conducted a tasting of his Hoenig wines (http://honigwines.com) at Double Decanted on Tuesday evening and David Gates, representing Ridge Vineyards (http://ridgewines.com), took the spotlight Thursday evening at Vault & Vino.
I first met Honig, pictured below, back in the late 1990s at his Rutherford winery on a trip with a restaurant friend. She had turned me on to the Honig Sauvignon Blanc, which, as it happened, was his best-known wine. Unfortunately, it still wasn’t that well-known because, he said, “Nobody wanted to drink sauvignon blanc in those days. Remember, Robert Mondavi changed the name of his to Fume Blanc.”
Things have changed, of course, although not the Honig Sauvignon Blanc. Or, better, sauvignon blancs. The 2021 Reserve ($38 at http://honigwine.com) really sings. To quote James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “The extraordinary interplay between fruit and oak creates a richly textured mid-palate that is seamlessly balanced on solid acidity and minerality.” Suckling suggests it will drink nicely through 2026, if not longer. The Honig cabs rock, too. Note that Fleming’s is featuring the Honig sav blanc this month ($13 for a glass, $57 for a bottle) as a surf & turf pairing.
Check out the website and you’ll see a picture of him on a tractor in 1984 at the age of 22 as he began the process of reviving what was then a failing winery. At 61, Honig’s still in the game, spending more time on the road spreading the good word than he does at the property. He loves meeting his customers almost as much as he loves drinking his wines.
Ridge, of course, is the stuff of legend. In the late 1950s, three Stanford Research Institute engineers pooled their resources to purchase a gorgeous plot of land high in the Santa Cruz Mountains above the Palo Alto campus. The land, bought for recreationally purposes only, came with an abandoned winery and a scraggly vineyard. But it produced enough grapes for the three “garagistes” to make a quarter of a barrel of damned good cabernet. by 1962, they had released a first official vintage and the rest is history. You can get all the details at http://ridgewine.com.
Gates, shown below, oversees the extensive vineyard operations for Ridge and has been part of the Ridge team since1989, which was about the time I was all in on the Ridge Zinfandels from Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and Paso Robles, and the Geyserville red blend. In fact, those were my go-to reds for at least a decade, until putting down roots in southeastern France turned my focus to the Southern Rhone and Italy’s Piemonte.
But it was a splendid tasting experience to revisit all of the above plus Ridge’s Chardonnay, Estate Cabernet and, of course, the big dog cab, Monte Bello. My discretionary spending budget never quite caught up with the latter’s price point (it’s now $250 at Spec’s) for me to become a regular imbiber, never mind collector, but there’s real value in the others. I will be reloading on my next trip to the Midtown store.
Another notable H-town visitor has been David Keck (pictured below), back in Houston on Tuesday to lead a trade seminar on Rhone Valley wines at the Art of Cellaring (http://artofcellaring.com). Keck, of course, became a leading figure in H-Town’s vibrant wine scene first as the somm at Uchi before running the show at Camerata and then laying the foundation for March’s extensive wine program.
In 2020, as COVID-19 was turning the hospitality industry upside down — and before March opened — he packed up and returned to his native Vermont to reinvent himself as a winemaker, “the most humbling experience I’ve ever had,” he concedes. But his Stella XIV Wines business (http://stella14wines.com) is helping put Vermont on the world’s wine map. You’ll find a nice story about Keck’s recent New England adventures at http://thinkvermont.com.
But subsequently things have gotten even more complicated. A hard freeze with frost on May 25 — May 25! — cost Keck 85 percent of his grape harvest for 2023. Therefore, he has taken a couple new “day jobs” such as partnering with groups such as the Rhone Valley Vineyards and working remotely for the AI wine-and-spirit firms http://preferabli.com to augment his income. His presentation was spot-on, of course. Keck knows his stuff and he’s a great entertainer. I thought I knew everything about the Rhone Valley. Boy was I wrong, and I’ll be sharing at least some of what I learned in a future blog.
I told Keck, “Don’t be a stranger. Come back and see us.” He promised he would.
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jim Crane, Justin Verlander and Framber Valdez
August has been a great month for the Astros through the years, but they never had a day in August like yesterday. Crane, the best and brightest Houston owner team in history by far, is always in it to win it NOW and that’s why Verlander returns after being on loan to the Mets for a few months. The news so juiced Valdez, who hadn’t pitched well of late, that he tossed a 93-pitch no-no at Cleveland, the Astros’ fifth in the last five seasons — an historic major-league first. (Yep, Verlander had one of those, too, on Sept. 1, 2019.) Framber’s gem was the 16th no-hitter in franchise history and left the now-quaking-in-their-boots Texas Rangers just a half game up in the division standings.
Raising a glass to . . . Mark Berman
My great friend and longtime press box colleague surprised me by retiring recently, although his timing was perfect — before the start of Texans training camp, because there’s nothing worse than covering training camp. Berman was the sports anchor at Channel 26 for more years than either of us care to count, but he was also the hardest working reporter on the local sports scene. Not for nothing did we call him “Scoop.” He broke more stories than the rest of his TV colleagues combined. While it’s hard to picture Berman kicking back in the recliner Mattress Mack gave him for a going-away present, he swears his been-there-done-that time had come. Cheers, Scoop!
And to . . . Lawson Craddock
The 31-year-old Houstonian’s first Tour de France start — and finish — since 2018 proved a memorable one. Riding for Team Jayco Ulula, he completed cycling’s greatest race for the third time in three career starts. A personal highlight would be his fourth place finish in stage 15, a brutal day in the Alps near Mont Blanc when he led a dramatic breakaway. And his team boss, Simon Yates, copped fourth in the yellow jersey standings. Although this Tour lacked the poignant drama of five years ago, when Craddock broke his scapula during the first stage yet still pedaled — in last place — all the way to the Champs Elysees over three agonizing weeks (raising nearly $300,000 to repair the Hurricane Harvey-damaged Alkek Velodrome in the process), he said it best himself: “If you make it to the Tour de France, you’re doing pretty well.” Damn straight, Lawson!
And to . . . Case Keenum
The onetime fancy-passing Houston Cougar has come full circle, coming home to the Texans, where his NFL career began 11 years ago. An undrafted free agent, Keenum never left the practice squad as a rookie in 2012, then went 0-8 as a starter during the disastrous 2013 season. But he won both his starts a year later before moving on to the Rams –playing in both St. Louis and Los Angeles — Minnesota, Washington, Cleveland and Buffalo. Replacing the injured Sam Bradford, he led the Vikings to the brink of the Super Bowl in 2017. Here, he’ll help mentor rookie top draft pick C.J. Stroud and serve as an all-around positive veteran presence in the Texans locker room. Fact is, Keenum should be raising a glass to himself, given that he’s also part owner of the Haak Vineyards & Winery down in Sante Fe.
But pouring one out for . . . Bob West
Another great sports journalist passed this week. West was a beloved and revered columnist in Port Arthur for decades and I had the privilege of spending lots of time with him back in the Luv ya Blue Oilers era. Nobody got closer to his fellow Golden Triangle homey Bum Phillips than Bob. RIP, my friend.
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “
Racially charged comments posted on Facebook yesterday by Friulian grape grower and winemaker Fulvio Bressan have sparked outrage in the online food and wine community.
In a statement evidently addressed to Italian integration minister Cécile Kyenge — Italy’s first African-Italian minister — Bressan offered his opinion on a recently implemented government program that provides temporary housing for undocumented immigrants . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Until earlier this year, Grüner Veltliner was not in my Texas wine lexicon. But, there it was. My first thought was how could this be so?After all, Austria is a cool winegrowing region, right? Texas is actually the opposite, being described politely as a “warm” winegrowing region, and less than politely as just “damn hot . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme. Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre) . . . “
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Sure, for those in the know, my title for this article is a no-brainer. But if you’re not in the know, please be sure to check out my article on the work that John Rivenburgh is doing through his Kerrville Hills incubator for the Texas wine industry. You can find it over at the Vintner Project: “John Rivenburgh & his Kerrville Hills Incubator Propel Texas Wine Growth.” I had a great time talking to John about what he does as well as getting the perspectives of others in the industry who have worked with him. He really is great for Texas wine . . .”
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Updated July 22
I’ve had a great run of tasting experiences lately, including some remarkable reds. But, sorry, it’s too damned hot to talk about red wine today, although my fellow wine bloggers Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) and Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) both ferreted out smart options as you’ll read below. Anyway, these were my favorite bottles of bubbles and rosés, plus a lovely debut sauvignon blanc from my old friends at Alexander Valley Vineyards.
BUBBLES
Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra-Brut
From the winemaker: “A straw gold color and very fine bubbles. Its delicate hue comes from to the use of a high percentage of chardonnay (33 percent) and of the first pressing only. The first aromas reveal the citrus character of the chardonnay, such as lime and grapefruits. Red fruit aromas then come out, including redcurrant, raspberry, morello cherry – typical pinot noir (45 percent). On leaving the wine to open up, candied fruits, even exotic fruits of pinot meunier appear with aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is lively. The nose is confirmed by the first taste, including citrus, almonds, toasted bread and “brioche”… but also redcurrant jelly, and dark fruits like cherry, fig or blackberry. The palate is full, quite long, with a very clean finish. Elegant, but not without complexity, this wine perfectly illustrates the house style.”
From me: Paillard was born in Reims in 1953 into a family already several generations steeped in the champagne trade — but only as grape growers and brokers. He, too, began his career as a broker before, at the age of 27, launching the first new champagne house in his neighborhood in nearly a century. Fourteen years later he had done well enough to purchase his first vineyard, three grand cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Today, his daughter Alice runs the show. Their bubbles are as good as bubbles from Champagne get at this price point.
$60.99 at Spec’s
2015 Artesa Codorníu Grand Reserve Brut
From the winemaker: “Continuing the grand tradition of Cavas Codorniu, which dates back to 1872, this Brut was produced using old world methods, and taking benefit of the incredible quality of the grapes farmed in our beloved region of Los Carneros, Napa Valley. It displays beautiful, fragrant aromas of pear, honeydew and apricot. Uplifting citrus flavors and fine bubbles are wrapped in crisp acidity, yet the round, creamy mouthfeel that comes from the wines years of lees contact persists through a lingering finish. Over time, the sparkling wine will continue to develop complexity.”
From me: A friend introduced me to this sparkler, which is available only through Artesa, and I’ll be internally thankful for that. It’s a tad pricey for what can only be described as an American Cava but still worth every penny.
$60 at http://shop.artesawinery.com
Pierre Spar Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé
From the winemaker: “Salmon pink color with fresh aromas of soft red berries, predominantly strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, round and fruity with hints of peach. The flavors are intense, with lively acidity framed by a well-made structure and delicate bubbles. The finish is smooth, clean and dry.
From the Wine Enthusiast, which score it a 90: “Yeasty mellowness is all that the shy nose gives away. The dark-pink hue of this wine promises body and fruit, which duly appear on the creamy palate. Mellow strawberry and apple pair with gentle freshness. A chalky texture supports the frothy foam while freshness highlights the dry roundness of the finish.”
From me: Maison Pierre Sparr knows its stuff. The Sparrs have been producing cremant since 1680. Made from pinot noir grown in Alsace’s prestigious Hau Rhin, it’s a superb bargain. It’s yet another bottle of excellent bubbles introduced to me by a friend. No man is an island, right?
$21.99 at Whole Foods
ROSÉS
Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2021
From the winemaker: “A pink appearance like raspberry, expressive nose with notes of little red berries. On the palate, the wine is very balanced and in line with the nose. The palate is full with a long length. Good acidity provides a tense finale. Beautiful complexity, fine, fresh, fruity and elegant.
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “Pale garnet in color and gorgeously perfumed with blossoms and watermelon, this crisp, blackberry-flavored rosé juxtaposes zesty black fruit flavors against a deep, penetrating undertone of crushed stone and spice. A stately expression of Tavel that’s likely to drink beautifully year-round.”
From me: Tavel’s are unique because it’s France’s only AOC permitted to produce rose and rose only. Trinquevedel owner Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm these vineyards, which were purchased along with a ramshackle chateau by his great-grandfather in 1936. But it took 24 more years to get the grapes up to snuff. Note that it was Louis XIV who first put Tavel on the map. The pink wines from the sunny region were almost all the Sun King drank.
$19.79 from http://wine.com
2022 Scaia Rosato Veneto
From the winemaker: “This Rosato is a pink-hued wine made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella grape variety that is not often seen on its own. It’s fresh and floral and delightfully refreshing.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “A pale, tight and nervy rosé with aromas and flavors of apricot skin and orange peel. Medium-bodied with super-clean, crisp flavor. Nicely done.”
From me: The Scaia project, begun in 2006, was established by the four brothers behind Tenuta Sant’Antonio in eastern Valpolicella with the aim of creating wines with a modern style not constricted by the denomination system. Why Scaia? That’s a word in the Veronese dialect for crumbs, like little pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that break off the large block, which the soil resembles. It’s thought to impart a higher acidity and bolder fruit character to the wines.
17.99 at http://wine.com
WHITE
2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “There are aromas of tropical fruits, passion fruit, green apple, grapefruit and melon. Bright acidity is followed by fresh juicy flavors of citrus – lime, grapefruit, and lemongrass, along with a slight minerality. It’s a lively wine bottled with a stelvin closure to lock in the freshness.”
From me: The newest member of the AVV family — a double gold medalist in the 2023 North Cosat wine Competition — it was made from fruit grown in the Croft Vineyard, a unique parcel on the southern edge of the Alexander Valley that sits in a saddle 700 feet above the valley floor, allowing the fog from the coast to penetrate early in the morning. That cools off the vines and extends the hang-time for the grapes. Et voilà!
$24 at http://shop.avvwine.com (Or $26 at Porta’Vino)
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 26, at R-C Ranch. http://eventbrite.com $100
An Evening with Ridge Vineyards’ David Gates: 6:30-8 p.m., Thursday, July 27, at Vault & Vino. RSVP to JAMESBARLOW@SPECSONLINE.COM $50
Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.
Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “Thanks to my teaching gig at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, I’ve been making at least two or more trips to the region every year for the last eight vintages. That’s been great news for my Jewish boy stomach: Piedmont is home to what is arguably my favorite dish of all times — vitello tonnato . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “As long as it’s 76 F inside, I can pretend that it is late October with the low-humidity wind coming nicely out of the north. But, now… what wine? After a search of my wine cooler, I found it…”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Embarking on a catchup pinot noir tasting, the DC writes: “I am currently experiencing a phenomenon that I could not have fathomed a decade ago: I am awash in samples. According to my inventory, I am currently hovering around 200 bottles that were sent to me to taste. Since I am a bit of a math geek, I did some calculations: If I average going through 15 bottles a week (three a day—I try not to “work” on the weekend), that comes out to about 13 weeks of wine . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “If you’ve followed my adventures to Oregon wine country here and here (to name a couple) you know that I’ve got mad love for the wines of the entire state! Since the dreaded ‘Rona reared its ugly head, there has been so much going on there with some really notable changes. Of course, we were all locked down and some of it sorta went unnoticed. Emerging from the pandemic, the changes have continued. One of the big changes has been the creation of additional Willamette Valley AVAs. American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) is just a fancy way of saying a designated region. And for Oregon, it’s a big deal . . .”
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Updated June 11
Back in February I was planning to write about Tony Parker’s buying a piece of the La Mascaronne winery in Provence, and we had a nice phone conversation about same. Despite his French roots, Parker gave most of the credit for his becoming a serious oenophile to Greg Popovich. The San Antonio Spurs coach was a super-serious collector and, to his credit, Pop wasn’t the least bit hesitant to pop corks on special bottles with his players.
But he proved real hesitant talking about same. The man is a superb coach with five championship rings, but he’s also intensely private away from the arena, and it didn’t help that Pop was enduring his worst season ever with the Spurs. I got nowhere trying to nail down a wine-centric chat with him, so my story stayed in limbo.
Fortunately.
Had it been written after our first interview, some rather significant stuff wouldn’t have made the piece, which finally ran Sunday in the San Antonio Express-News (Spurs legend Tony Parker toasts to the future (expressnews.com). In mid-March, the news broke that Parker would be going into the Basketball Hall of Fame this summer — along with Popovich. Then, in May, the Spurs won the right to make Victor Wembanyama the first pick in NBA draft.
Parker is France’s greatest basketball player ever. But, should he ever loses that title, it’s likely going to be claimed by the 7-3 Wembanyama, who, like Parker did back in the day, will make his NBA debut at 19 this fall. Needless to say, a second conversation with Parker would be required and it happened the morning after the Spurs called Wembanyama’s name.
Tony said he’d been doing interviews with French journalists for more than an hour before we hooked up and many more were scheduled. He promised to text me with the wines he’ll be tasting once he’s officially a member of the Hall of Fame — that happens Aug. 12 in Springfield, Mass. — and we discussed a rendezvous at La Mascaronne in September, when he’ll be there for his second harvest. My home in the Southern Alps is less than three hours from the winery, located in the Var above St. Tropez, and it’s a beautiful drive. Can’t wait to clink glasses with him.
But you don’t have to fly to Provence to taste the excellent La Mascaronne lineup. The wines are available in Houston at French Country Wines, 2433 Bartlett, in Rice Village (http://frenchcountrywines.com).
The Miraval mess
Speaking of Provence, If you’re curious about how Chateau Miraval devolved from being a very good under-the-radar rosé to mass-produced plonk, check out the latest issue of Vanity Fair: https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2023/06/brad-pitt-angelina-jolie-miraval-rose-divorce While the story is primarily about the nasty “Brangelina” break up, the inside stuff about the winery was fascinating, too. Key fact: Under Tom Bove, who sold Miraval to the now-divorced Hollywood power couple, production had been 150,000 bottles annually. When Pitt partnered with the Perin family (Château Beaucastel), Bove said it skyrocketed to 10 million. That explains everything.
In fairness, the wine has gotten better over the last couple of years, but it’s still way down on my list of favorite pinks from Provence.
Bove, by the way, was also the proprietor of La Mascaronne before selling that property to Parker and the French entrepreneur Michel Reybier. In its case, however, there has been no drop-off whatsoever in quality.
Breaking news
Pastore Italian kitchen (https://pastorehouston.com/) has finally opened on Dunlavy in the same complex as George James, but it’s hardly the casual red-sauce and pasta joint chef Chis Shepherd seemingly envisioned before he parted ways with his Underbelly Hospitality investors suddenly last year. Rather, it’s starkly sleek and sophisticated space with a seafood-centric “coastal Italian” menu and a small but tantalizing wine list presided over by sommelier Zach Newman, who was previously part of Mollie Austad’s wine team at Bluedorn.
Newman inherited the Pastore list and, although there’s nothing to fix, he’ll surely want to put his own stamp on it going forward. When I popped in recently with Jody Schmal, my former Houston Chronicle Flavor Section editor, Newman sold us on the Ca’ Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Edizione 45 from Franciacorta in Lombardy at $75. Bravo, Zach.
“Pastore,” fyi, means “shepherd” in Italian and Georgia James is, of course, Shepherd’s mother’s name. So he’s still part of same, even if he isn’t.
Sippin’ with Sporty
Pink
2020 Natura Rosé
From the winemaker: “Fragrance reminiscent of bunches of fresh strawberries. Bright, fresh red fruit flavors are silky and elegant on the palate. Slightly off-dry with good acidity. Delicate and easy to drink.”
From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Pristine, Pure and the freshest rosé possible. The organically grown grapes are handpicked in March, sorted and then directly pressed. Vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with gentle pump overs and delicate lees stirring. The wine is aged for three months in stainless steel tanks and is filtered prior to bottling. Bright light pink. Bouquet: Intense fruity aromas, such as cherry and black currant. Taste: Good body, silky and elegant on the palate. Tremendously fresh, fruity, and balanced. Delicate and easy to drink.”
From me: What he said, and what a price! I love Costco.
$9.49 at Costco
White
2021 Laird Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “The eye-catching clear white gold color is followed by tantalizing aromas of lemongrass, key lime pie, guava, and lilikoi. The palate is a continuation of the aromatic journey with flavors reminiscent of Thai basil, grapefruit, white peach, and elderflower. This wine is gleaming with lively acidity and rounded out by a strikingly smooth finish.”
From me: From what’s truly a family operation that dates back to 1970, when Ken Laird bought a 70-acre plot covered with scraggly prune trees on Tubbs Lane near Calistoga, it’s a splendidly fruit-forward gem made from sav blanc fruit grown in Napa Valley’s Big Ranch Vineyard.
$30 at http://lairdfamilyestate.com
Red
2021 C. L. Butaud PaPa Frenchy Red Wine
From the winemaker: “Soft sandalwood, taut black cherry, and graham cracker crust aromas give way to a spirited palate, elevated by gentle acidity. There is a focused texture on the entry that migrates to the edges of your mouth, with bright red fruits from the grenache (60 percent), herbed ham flavors from the mourvèdre, and sweet tobacco from the tempranillo. The succinct and structured finish is reminiscent of the crispness of fresh strawberry seeds.”
From me: The wine, and the winery’s name, is an homage to winemaker Randy Hester’s great grandfather, Clet Louis Butaud, whose friends called him “Frenchy.” Frenchy would be proud of this bottle, which represents outstanding value.
$18 at http://clbataud.com
H-town Happenings
Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40
Women of Wine Charities 9th Sangria Throwdown: 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 12, at Mercedes Benz of Houston Greenway. https://www.wowcharities.org/sangria2023/ $95
Avignonesi Wine Dinner with Giuseppe Santtarelli: 7 p.m. Wednesday, July 19, at Roma. 713 664-7581 $99
Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.
Nickel and Nick Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130
Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023
Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “What an incredible year it’s been already! From Lucciola in New York City to The Wine Country in Long Beach, California; from Pasta And… in Margate, Florida to Cry Wolf in Dallas and Davanti in Houston. Over the last six months, I’ve had the opportunity to interact with some of the brightest and best people in our business . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “I made an interesting comparison between what I called our Texas red sandy loam over porous caliche limestone and the coveted red sandy loam and limestone found in the Australian Coonawarra wine region that they called “Terra Rossa”. Literally the next day from half the world away, I received a comment to my blog coming back at me from seasoned wine critic Philip White who has written for Australia’s major newspapers and many magazines worldwide. White said that I had a bad case of “Coonawarra Envy . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “When I first started writing about wine, I really never envisioned that wineries would actually send me wine to review on this site. Sure, I secretly hoped it would happen, but I really harbored no illusions that my furtive desire would come to fruition. Fast forward nearly a dozen years into this blog and I still am a little flabbergasted that I receive wines on a regular basis. While I genuinely feel fortunate to receive any wines from producers, there are certainly some boxes that elicit euphoria, and at the top of that list is Tongue Dancer Wines . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “Oh Zinfandel, I was wrong! Zinfandel, America’s Heritage Wine, as it is referred to by some, is literally living American history. As a person who legit went out of her way to avoid Zinfandel, my anti-Zin stance started to thaw several years ago when I attended a master class on the grape and got to experience several iterations of the wine from various producers. Before then, a couple of bad experiences made me (wrongly) assume that Zin was just an alcoholic fruit bomb with very little substance or complexity. While I was indeed thawing, I still wasn’t all the way there. However, after attending a three-day wine and food extravaganza dedicated solely to Zinfandel . . .”
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We got the band back together last week, which is to say my Chronicle panel convened for a too-long-in-coming reunion. But this was real work like in the good old days, not an excuse to have a party. We blind-tasted our way through 36 wines and the stars of the show follow, scored as always on my 20-point scale — a maximum of 10 for quality (average score from the panelists) and 10 for value, which I assign.
2022 Kirkland Cotes de Provence Rose
Score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)
From the http://costcowineblog.com: “Nice strawberry, peach flavors with a little orange creamsicle twisted in. Light to medium in body. Crisp and refreshing; just what you want in rosé, and pairs nice with warm weather, but can go with about anything.”
From our tasters, eight of whom scored it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Fresh, with a touch of salinity. A dry classic rose.”
From me: It’s grenache/cinsault-centric (two-thirds of the blend) with syrah, carignan, tibouren, vermentino and ugni blanc playing strong supporting roles. Offers off-the-charts value in this bottle, folks
$7.99 at Costco
2021 J. Lohr South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles
19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “Deeply colored with vibrant purple and magenta hues. Varietal aromas of black cherry and fresh blueberry are accented by black tea, bergamot, and lilac. The juicy and spicy structure of this northern Rhône cultivar is lengthened and lifted by the inclusion of grenache, mourvèdre, roussanne, and viognier.”
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral nose. Ripe fruit on the palate. Chewy tannins. Delicious.”
From me: Another screaming steal at this price. Fifteen bucks? Are you kidding me?
$15 at http://jlohr.com
2022 Rouge-Bleu Dentelle Mediteranée Blanc
Score: 19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “Named after our local mountain chain, Dentelle is a fruit driven, ready to drink wine which will charm wine connoisseurs and novices alike by its elegance and approachability.”
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral and fruity. Apple and spice notes.”
From me: Rouge-Bleu, in the Sainte-Cecille AOC on the Rhone Valley floor, proved an excellent stop on my recent South of France wine tour. This bargain gem is a kitchen-sink blend of vermentino, marsanne, clairette blanc, roussanne, viognier, grenache gris, bourboulenc, grenache blanc, gros manseng, chenin blanc, muscat petits grains, carignan blanc and picpoul.
$20 at French Country Wines in Houston
2020 Greenwing Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)
From the winemaker: “This vivacious cabernet sauvignon displays enticing aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, loamy earth and a hint of desert sage. The bright red berry layers are echoed on the lively palate, with supple tannins and juicy acidity framing the generous fruit and carrying the wine to a long, graceful finish.”
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.2: “Ripe dark fruit, pronounced tannins. Spicy!”
From me: The Columbia Valley is located between the 46th and 47th parallels, the same as Bordeaux (and Burgundy). Winemaker Brian Rudin couldn’t have asked for better cabernet terroir than he’s got in the wilds of Eastern Washington.
$33.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)
From the winemaker: “This lush and alluring cabernet begins with aromas of ripe strawberry, grenadine and Bing cherry that leap from the glass, followed by notes of sarsaparilla, root spices, black licorice cinnamon and star anise. On the palate it is both luxurious and energetic, with plush tannins and ripe red berry flavors balanced by enlivening energy and sophisticated hints of cigar wrapper, granitic minerality and sweet baking spices.
From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Lively nose and palate. Casis and dark berry flavors.”
From James Suckling, who awarded at score of 92: “Aromas of grated nutmeg, black and red currants and wild herbs. Full-bodied with firm tannins. Fresh acidity and ripe fruit create a pleasant dynamic on the palate. Well balanced.”
From me: Like it’s Duckhorn brethren Greenwing, it’s named for a duck. It’s also made by Rudin, who clearly has a great grasp of his great terroir.
$36.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Decoy Limited Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)
From the winemaker: “This alluring pinot noir offers vibrant aromas of red cherry and raspberry, as well as hints of savory spices and forest floor. On the palate, silky smooth tannins and refined notes of toasted French oak accentuate the lush flavors, while carrying the wine to an elegant red berry and spice finish.”
From our tasters, five of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Full-bodied, well-balanced. Should be age-worthy.”
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 90: “Working with vineyards from Green Valley, Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap, this wine is juicy, delicate and citrus-driven in style, laced with strawberry, pomegranate and grapefruit tones. The tannins build on the midpalate as a toasted oak accent provides lushness to the finish.”
From me: Pinots at this price point don’t get much better. But the California Decoy from the 2021 vintage didn’t do badly either, earning five scores of 9 or higher, and it’s five bucks cheaper.
$30 at http://decoywines.com
2019 Cuvaison Small Lot Arcilla Merlot Napa Valley
18.3 (9.3 quality, 9 value)
From the winemaker: “Our 2019 Merlot Arcilla is a powerhouse style of Merlot, rife with black cherry, sandalwood, coffee, and cocoa nib notes. On the palate the wine is expansive and rewards with cherry and blackberry fruit, silky tannins, and an earthy, spicy finish that is both savory and inviting. Emblematic of a cool vintage, this merlot, rooted in Arcilla clay soils, shows the richness and elegance of merlot perfectly matched to its terroir.
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Round and ripe with blackberries and mint flavors front and center.”
From me: Pay attention to the “small lot” designation. Fewer than nine cases were made so it won’t be available for long.
$70 at http://cuvaison.com
2019 Emeritus Pinot Noir Pinot Hill East
18.2 (9.2 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “Like Pinot Hill itself, this wine seems to exist on that borderline between cool coastal fog and wind and the fleeting warmth of the sun. The influence of the Pacific is echoed in the mélange of sweet and savory flavors, with aromas of ocean air and dried strawberries mingling with notions of sesame oil and sunflowers. The tannins are taut like a bowstring, providing a flexible quality that adds energy to the rich red berry flavors as they glide to a bright, soaring finish. This is a fabulous food wine that should be served just a touch warmer than cellar temperature.”
From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Rich, ripe and savory . . . Complex.”
From me: All four Emeritus pinots in the tasting — Hallberg Ranch, Pinot Hill and Pinot Hill West were the others — scored extremely well, but the East proved best. In case you’re wondering, Pinot Hill is in the Sebastopol Hills southwest of the town of Sebastopol, the coolest sub-region of the Russian River Valley.
$78 at http://emeritusvineyards.com
2022 Fiddlehead Cellars La Pressa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Los Osos District
18.1 (9 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “Sauvignon Blanc yearns to be wild, but has such extraordinary style when it is tamed. With our over 30 years of refinement, we know this sweet spot of warmer days and cool evenings nurtures balance in our wines. I am excited to return to this historic old vine source that I worked with 25 years ago, and to bring this Old World Varietal back to its graceful expression.”
From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Bright and lively with expressive minerality and acidity.”
From me: Fiddlehead Cellars’ Kathy Joseph, a Santa Barbara County wine-making pioneer, describes her oak-barrel-aged sauvignon blanc style as being “textural.” What it isn’t is “green.” (Which is to say New Zealand sav blanc.) Fans of the movie “Sideways” will recall Joseph conversing with Paul Giamati’s Miles character about the Fiddlehead Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc. She tells him it spent 12 months in oak. He replies, “This is good. Little hints of cloves.”
$36 at http://fiddleheadcellars.com
2019 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley
18 (9 for quality, 9 for value)
From the winemaker: “This is an elegant wine with earthy aromas of cassis, plum, black cherry, vanilla, oak, chocolate and a slight cola note. In the glass there are lush flavors of cherry, cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The 2019 is a structured wine with firm tannins and a chewy finish that evolves with each sip. While fruit forward upon release, this wine will reward those with the patience to lay down a few bottles.”
From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Yummy blackberries.”
From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 91: “Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Lean and focused on the palate with solid depth. Dry finish. Drink now.”
From me: Jordan remains a reference-standard cab for me. After 13 years working in the winery’s cellar, Maggie Kruse made her winemaking debut with this vintage and she nailed it.
$60 at http://jordanwinery.com
H-town Happenings
Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40. http://eventbrite.com
Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com
Truly Greek, Truly Unique Wine Tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, July 13 at JMP Wines Tasting Room. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime writes: “From my colleague Nicola Perullo at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont to leading sommelier and author Pascaline Lepeltier in New York City, wine thinkers across the world are trying to forge a new language — a new dialectic — to describe the tasting experience. If ever the twain were to meet, I doubt they would agree on much — except for one thing: the hegemony of the 20th-century tasting note (and score) must be disrupted for Westerners to continue to evolve as tasters . . .”
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger writes: “About a week ago, Austin-based Denise Clarke and her Texas Fine Wine wineries had another of their quarterly Talk and Taste sessions on Zoom. This one was “Summer Sippers” and offered wine suggestions for quenching our summertime thirst. And, it couldn’t have come at a better time as in Houston we are moving into the 100-102 F range and in the hill country temperatures are blazing at 105-107 F… It’s bloody hot all over the state, if you ask me. Check out these four “Summer Sippers”, a quench from Texas Fine Wine . . .”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC writes: “I am out of town again this week, first in San Diego as a wine judge for the Critics Challenge and then to Austin for another basketball tournament. As I usually do when I am out of town, I revisit a Sundays Are For Sebastian, our fourteen-year-old soon-to-be sophomore in high school(!). This one comes from four years ago when he was ten . . .”
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat writes: “And just Iike that – it’s June. School is out. Thank God! And I swear it seems that EVERYONE is on vacay! I definitely need to join them. If you’re headed out to Texas Wine Country, there are plenty of fun events. In fact, I need to give a special shoutout to Texas wineries. Their wines performed amazingly well as last month’s 2023 TEXSOM International Wine Awards, taking home 168 awards. Texas wine continues to shine . . .”
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Truth to tell, tours aren’t my thing. When it comes to travel, I tend to be a lone ranger, setting my own schedule as I go. But my recent Gourmet Tours (http://gourmettours.biz) adventure in the South of France with my buddy Pablo Valqui and a lovely mix of new and old friends changed my thinking. By the end of our nine days together, having tasted our way through Provence, the Languedoc and the Rhone Valley with urban detours to Marseille and Nice in the mix, too, we felt like a team. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
In fact, I will do it again next spring, exploring my other co-favorite wine region, Italy’s Piemonte. Save the dates: May 22-June 2. We’ll fly into Turin and out of Milan with time set aside to tour both great cities. My favorite wineries (Ceretto, Oddero, Bruno Rocca and Marchesi di Gresy, to name a few) are certain to be in the mix, as will visits to several Michelin-starred restaurants and other fascinating places. Fact: Alba’s eateries have more etoiles on a per-capita basis than any town in the world. So watch this space. Details to come!
But, before moving forward, permit me to look backward for a moment. Here’s a list with links to the must-visit wineries and restaurants we experienced in France. I’d happily return to every one of them again and again.
Wineries
Chateau La Mascaronne (Var): Owned in part by basketball Hall-of-Famer Tony Parker, the property sits in a gorgeous natural amphitheater a short drive inland from St. Tropez. (www.chateau-lamascaronne.com) These superb wines are sold in Houston at French Country Wines (www.frenchcountrywines.com).
St. Pierre de Mejans (Luberon): Houston-area native Wendy Gobbi and her husband took over this property a couple years ago and have turned it into both a prime tasting venue and a luxury auberge, housed in a small chateau that dates to the 12th century. (http://saintpierredemejans.com). The wines can be purchased here through http://aocselections.com)
L’Hospitalet (La Clape): Unfortunately, it’s only Gérard Bertrand’s entry-level Languedoc wines are easily found on Houston shelves, but searching for the high-end offerings will be well worth your time. The Clos d’Ora GSM from the Minervois should sell for $250 because it’s absolutely that good. (http://gerard-bertrand.shop)
Chateau de Luc (Corbieres): This was the find of the trip and all credit to to Pablo for that. He picked it. The Fabre’s wine-making family goes back 14 generations and the current twin sisters who are the public face of the place, Jeanne and Clemence (pictured below), were equal parts delightful and super wine savvy. I learned more about the Languedoc’s star-crossed wine-making history in an hour with Jeanne than I knew before I arrived. And the wines should soon be in the Texas market. A family member has relocated to Austin. (www.famillefabre.com)
Domaine Rouge-Bleu (Saint Cecille): Thomas Bertrand (pictured below), who learned the wine business on the sale’s side while living in the UK, and his winemaker wife Caroline Jones, who hails from Australia, are doing great things using non-interventionist farming methods on their Rhone Valley floor terroir. http://rouge-bleu.com Their offerings can also be found in Houston at French Country Wines.
Chêne Bleu (Ventoux/Vaucluse): The gorgeously restored property, built on the bones of medieval monastery that later became a renowned glass-blowing factory, is also set in a natural amphitheater in the hills near Crestet to the east of Mont Ventoux. New Yorker Nicole Rolet, who presides over the operation, is a force of nature. The biodynamically made wines have re-defined the possible for this often-overlooked AOC, and there’s a luxurious villa for rent on site. (http://chenebleu.com)
Domaine de Mourchon (Seguret): I’ve known Walter McKinlay and his wife Ronnie for more than 20 years and have made frequent pilgrimages to the Mourchon tasting room, so it was a special treat to visit with new friends. McKinlay’s daughter Kate capably presides over the winery these days. Note that the hilltop villa on the property is now available for rental. With spectacular views of Mont Ventoux and the Baronies range to the north, I can’t imagine a finer wedding venue . . . Well, let’s call it a tie with Chêne Bleu’s.
Domaine de Cabasse (Seguret/Sablet/Gigondas): I knew it only as a hotel before our visit, but the grenache-centric wines (white and red) are excellent, very well-priced and can be found on the shelf at Spec’s. Owner Benoit Baudry is a charming raconteur, too.
Restaurants
Each gets a hearty two-thumbs-way-up recommendation from me. They range in style from super casual (Cambuse du Sanier) to tres elegante (L’Oustelet). I can’t personally vouch for three other stops the group made because I had a different itinerary those days, but everybody said they were excellent, too, with La Ferme Marine on the coast in Marseillan (www.lafermemarine.fr) receiving especially high marks. I’m proud to say we batted 1.000 on both food and wine.
Le Pigonnet (Aix-en-Provence): Elegant, refined and creative dining in the most stylish of settings. The spacious outdoor garden is even more gorgeous, but rain threatened, dang it. www.hotelpigonnet.com
Domaine du Lac (Le Luc): Wonderful patio with vineyard views. Hearty portions and happy servers. www.hoteldomainedulac.com
1860 Le Palais (Marseille center): Excellent terrace with city views, with an excellent bakery attached. Very close to the Old Port. 1860lepalais.fr
Les Bain Bars (Marseille seashore): Hipster heaven with a fine view of the sea and the islands just off the coast. lesbainsmarseille.com
Refuge de la Cure (Ubaye Valley): Chef Hubert Longeron proved to be a huge hit cooking in my kitchen. His charming, remote gîte wasn’t yet open, so he came to us instead. maljassetgite.fr
L’Art de Vivre at L’Hospitalet (le Clappe): Checked all the fine-dining boxes. www.restaurant–art–de–vivre.com
Fontfroide Abbey Restaurant (near Narbonne): Relaxed dining in a lovely setting adjacent to the famous abbey. Super-friendly servers. www.fontfroide.com
Cambuse du Saunier (Gruisson): A lively crab shack adjacent to the salt beds with a postcard view of the lagoon. www.lesalindegruissan.fr
Restaurant des Fines Roches (Chateauneuf-du-Pape): Another great terrace with vineyard views. chateaufinesroches.com
L’Oustolet (Gigondas): A place I’ve dined at numerous times, it owns a well-deserved Michelin star. www.loustalet-gigondas.com
Le Mesclun (Seguret): Set in the heart of Seguret, one of France’s most beautiful villages, with vineyard and sunset views. www.lemesclun.com
Le Panier (Nice): A cozy bistro with a family feel and an urban vibe. www.restaurantlepanier.com
Sippin’ with Sporty
No touts for you today — I’ve been trying to give my liver a rest — but a bunch of them will be forthcoming in the weeks ahead. On Monday night, I’m hosting a Porta’Vino reunion of my tasting panel that served me and the Houston Chronicle so well for so many years. Same folks, same format, which is to say some 40 wines will be sampled blind, then scored on a 20-point scale taking into account both quality and value. It’s a fail-safe process. Recommendations coming!
H-town Happenings
Classy Cork Room Old World wines tasting: 6-8 p.m. Saturday, June 17 at Classy Cork Room. $65. 832-534-1900 or http://contacttheclassycork.com
Duckhorn wine dinner: 7 p.m. Friday, June 23, at the Oceanaire Seafood Room. $175. http://eventbrite.com
Marchesi Antinori wine dinners: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, June 22, through, Saturday, June 24 at Potente. $275 plus tax and gratuity. http://eventbrite.com
Six-year vertical tasting (2014-19) of SERCA Gran Corte: 4 p.m. Saturday, June 24, at SERCA Wines Tasting Room. $80 ($64 for club members). http://eventbrite.com
Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . the Nuggets and the Knights.
First-time champions in the NBA and NHL respectively, they gave us a break from the same ol’ same ol’ this season. Amazingly, though, there are still 10 NBA franchises and 11 in the NHL never to have claimed a title. The corresponding numbers for the NFL and MLB are 9 and 6 respectively.
Pouring one out for . . . Bob Hyde
The longtime Oilers/Titans PR man, who passed away recently after a long battle with cancer, was the very definition of an old-school good guy. I met him for the first time when he was interning with the Oilers in 1977, my second year covering the team. From that summer on, we never exchanged a cross word, no easy feat given the dynamics of what’s so often a tense relationship. RIP, Bob.
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Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
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Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
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Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime talks about testing AI’s capabilities with his Slow Food University students. He also bids a not-fond farewell to Silvio Berlusconi, the clownish, corrupt former Italian prime minister who died recently.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra reports on her recent whirlwind tour of Prosecco country.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger veers out of his lane a bit to talk about Georgia wines. As in Georgia the state, not the former Soviet republic.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The DC provides a crash course in Uruguay’s wine landscape.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat suggests the perfect wine pairings for a range of summer activities.
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Twenty years ago this summer, on a diabolically hot day in France’s Midi, I would stumble upon a ramshackle building south of Narbonne that had been repurposed as a winery/tasting room. Well, I think it was a winery, too, but I was only interested in the tasting part.
I had driven down from a dreadful place, essentially a failed amusement park in the middle of nowhere that Tour de France organizers had inexplicably deemed worthy of hosting a crucial individual time trial, with only one thing on my mind: a cooling breeze off the Mediterranean. And Narbonne Plage was only minutes ahead. But a Dégustation sign with an arrow pointing off to the right turned my head. The beach could wait. A short detour was very much in order.
The place was called L’Hospitalet and the interior was, curiously, mostly decorated with rugby action photos. Lots and lots of them. Fortunately, the bloke behind the bar spoke perfect English — it turned out he was an Irishman — and had a ready explanation for me. The owner was both an aspiring winemaker and, it seemed, the former captain of the French national rugby team.
His name? Gérard Bertrand.
As a sports writer and a wine maven, although not yet an official wine journalist, that combination intrigued me. Better still, the wines I tried were excellent, something that, back in the day, wasn’t a certainty when one tasted in the Languedoc, which for much of the 20th-century had been known for mostly producing plonk.
At any rate, I vowed to return one day, especially after how wonderfully charming I found Narbonne Plage. For a day or two, I thought seriously about buying a condo there but quickly came to my senses. Did I really need to own a second property in France? Uh, no. So that was the last I thought of L’Hospitalet and its rugby-playing proprietor for a very long time.
Cut to February of 2019 and the weekend I retired from the Houston Chronicle. I was visiting another beach town, Miami Beach, attending a party at the Versace Mansion hosted by . . . Gérard Bertrand. There, I got to finally meet the man himself, and he was impressive in every way possible. Late in the evening, he even rapped with a band that he’d flown in from France. Yeah, rapped. Learning that my wife and I had a permanent residence in France, his team invited me to visit the Bertrand headquarters in the Languedoc for a full-scale tour and immersive experience.
So, on another brutally hot July afternoon in the South of France — as I sped through the Southern Rhone Valley, my Peugeot told me was 114 degrees outside — I again found myself heading for Narbonne Plage. But this time there was much fancier sign pointing toward a splendidly restored building that had been transformed into a luxury inn with a top-drawer restaurant.
“Merde,” I said. “That’s the same place. I’m back!”
And I’ll return again next week, leading a group of very nice people on a wine tour through Provence, the Southern Rhone and Bertrand’s neck of the woods in the Languedoc, where he has built a wine empire upon a foundation that his father Georges, one of the region’s most respected and forward-thinking grape-growers, laid decades ago.
Gérard worked his first harvest with his dad in 1975, when he was 10, and they spent a dozen good years together in vineyards when he wasn’t honing his world-class rugby skills. After his father died tragically in an accident in 1987, he made the decision to keep the family’s Villemajou estate and, five years later, he launched his own company, soon purchasing the Cigalus Estate, Château Laville Bertrou and the Aigle Estate. L’Hospitalet had become his in 2002, not long before my serendipitous visit.
Today, Château la Sauvageonne, Château la Soujeole, Clos d’Ora, Clos du Temple, Château les Karantes, Château Aigues-Vives, Cap Insula, Château des Deux Rocs, Château de Tarailhan and the Estagnère Estate are all his, too. His entry-level Cote des Roses wines and the Gris Blanc rose are widely available in Houston — Spec’s and Kroger are where I find them — and around France. I buy the same bottles in my town’s Casino supermarket.
The Clos du Temple may be the world’s most expensive rosé at $250. Bertrand’s flagship, the Clos d’Ora, a blend of syrah and carignan from very old vines and mourvedre and grenache from turn-of-the-21st-centry plantings in the hills of La Viviniere, sells for close to $300. Like the Clos du Temple, it’s worth every penny. But the wines mentioned in the previous paragraph go for under $15.
One day, every bottle with Bertrand’s name on it — and that’s a whole lot of bottles — will be biodynamic. He became a true believer in same after starting with Cigalus in 2002. He’s got three children. He’s determined to do what he can to keep the planet liveable for their kids and grandkids.
I’m delighted my crew is going to experience firsthand what I accidently stumbled upon years ago. And I’m delighted to be returning myself to again experience what Bertrand calls l’art de vivre. I do believe the man has figured that out. Did I mention that he also hosts a world-class jazz/pop festival at L’Hospitalet every July?
Anyway, I’ll be hyper-focused on my tour over the next couple of weeks — it begins Thursday in Aix-en-Provence before wrapping up in Nice June 4 — so I’ll be off the blogging grid until after I return to Houston in mid-June. However, I’ll be posting like a crazy person on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook as we visit many of my favorite wineries, starting in the Var Friday at La Mascaronne, owned in part by the new Hall-of-Fame hoopster turned vigneron Tony Parker.
Unfortunately, Parker won’t be on-site today. I would have loved to quiz him about Victor Wembanyama, presumably the next great French hoopster who will surely come to torture the Rockets, too. Damn lottery!
Sippin’ with Sporty
Bubbles
Faiv Blancs de Blancs
From the winemaker: “Dry and fruit forward but has a definite acidity to cleanse the palate. Elegant and smooth. Pair with pasta with creamy or truffle sauces and fish.”
From me: It’s not everyday that you see Arneis bubbles. A friend who loves traveling to Northern Italy gifted me a bottle here in France and damned it wasn’t being sold in Houston at Tuttili, too. Wonderfully refreshing minerality and citrus notes in this Marchisio Family Organic Estate sparkler from Castellinaldo d’Alba, about 25 miles southeast of Turin.
$28 at Tuttili
Red
2019 Chateau Pas De Rauzan Bordeaux Supérieur
From the winemaker: “A pretty garnet colour, it’s dark and intense. Beautiful aromas of small red fruits on the nose. The expressive and supple palate is embellished with crunchy red fruits.”
From the Wine Enthusiast: “Packed with fruit, this is going to be a generous wine. Certainly its tannins are very present, but the weight of the ripe berry fruits will come to dominate. There is a juicy crisp aftertaste.”
From me: It’s a merlot-centric (70 percent) wine that’s truly a superior Bordeaux Superieur at a super price. The winery, with 80 hectares of vines, has been in the Fourestey family since 1890.
$11.57 at Spec’s
Il Palazzo wine dinner with co-owner Lorenzo Pitirra — 7 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at Roma. 713 664-7581.
Nine and Wine — National Wine Day: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at Riverhouse Houston. $30 http://eventbrite.com
Tolaini Tuscan Wine Dinner with Lia Tolaini-Banville: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at the Rainbow Lodge. $165 plus tax and gratuity. https://www.rainbow-lodge.com/tolaini-wine-dinner
Woodlands Wine & Food Week: Monday, June 5, through Sunday, June 11. http://www.wineandfoodweek.com
The Sports Page
Pouring one out for . . . Jim Brown
Truth to tell, I hated him as a kid because of how he ran over, under, around and through my beloved Baltimore Colts in the 1964 NFL Championship Game, pounding out 114 yards in a 27-0 Browns romp, after which I stayed in a funk for a week. But he forever defined what a running back should be. Although the NFL season was only 12 games long for his first four years, he averaged 1,368 yards over his nine seasons and 104.3 per game. He led the NFL in rushing eight times and claimed three MVP trophies before walking away while still in his prime, which goes a long way toward explaining how he lived to the ripe old age of 87. After a second career as an action-movie hero — Remember the Dirty Dozen? — he became a vocal and widely respected advocate for social justice.
One of my sports-writing idols, Shirley Povich, composed one of the epic sentences in sports-writing history after Brown had shredded the still lily-white Washington Redskins in 1960: “Jim Brown, born ineligible to play for the Redskins, integrated their end zone three times yesterday.” Ironically, it would be Bobby Mitchell, Browns’ backup in Cleveland, who became Washington’s first Black player in 1962.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime reports on the catastrophic, “unprecedented” rains and flooding in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, which have forced tens of thousands to abandon their homes and killed at least nine people.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra shares her latest story for Galveston Monthly, featuring wines she tasted recently in Paso Robles.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger shares his thoughts on, and personal history with, Gary Gilstrap’s Texas Hills Vineyards, whose wines are made, he says, in a lean Italian style.”
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
The Drunken Cyclist and a group of Houston wine pros recently tasted 53 “true” American rosés, which is to say rosés made from grapes grown specifically for making pink wines. You’ll find their conclusions in two posts. He swears this is the largest such sampling in the whole USA.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat provides a rundown of Texas wine happenings in the merry month of May.
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I spent some quality time last weekend one of my favorite expats, Wendy Heinicken Gobbi, who a good while ago traded in life in the American corporate world for a grand adventure in France. Today, Wendy and her husband Jean-Marc, reside near Aix-en-Provence, where he founded and still presides over the acclaimed International Bilingual School, with students from 75 countries. She used to work there, too, but it seems running a winery — the Gobbis bought St. Pierre de Mejans near Loumarin in the Luberon in 2021 — that’s also a luxury boutique hotel and, now, a popular wedding venue is a fulltime job in its own right.
“So Jean-Marc fired me,” Wendy jokes.
A second property near the 12th-century chateau (shown above) that houses all of the above has recently been added to their holdings, giving them another 10 rooms to let in the not-too-distant future. I should also mention that Jean-Marc bought Aix’s professional team handball club last year. Alas, this hasn’t been a great first season and he recently fired his coach, which is what sports team owners do, right?
I told Wendy she might be in line to take over as general manager, but she demurred, saying, “I think I have the right job” overseeing St. Pierre de Mejans, which is expanding its vineyards and wine offerings. Recent additions include two new sparklers, one made from only clairette and the other a mostly cinsault pink blend.
At the winery, all sell for under 18 euros a bottle. In Houston, you can buy the 2021 “1118” Cotes du Luberon white blend and rosé for $22 and the 2019 “Vielles Vignes” Rouge for $33 at http://aoc.selections.com. The “1118”? That’s said to be the year the original castle was completed.
Wendy, who grew up in Kingwood before attending the University of Texas, was briefly back in Houston recently, lunching at Tony’s with her importer, Douglas Skopp of Dionysus Imports, and dining at Ruggles Black with her extended family, some 15 folks total. Both chef-owners, Kate McLean and Bruce Molzan respectively, tasted her wines and hopefully will add them to their lists.
Far be it from me to nag, though.
Parlez-vous Bordeaux?
The Alliance Francaise and http://thetexaswineschool.com are partnering up again for a wine seminar/tasting, this one featuring wines from Bordeaux presented by my great friend and Master somm Guy Stout, who will present 10 of his favorites — two whites and a mix of Right and Left Bank reds — from the famed region in Southwest France from 6 to 7:30 p.m. Tuesday, May 23.
The price is $75. Don’t wait to register. The Wine School’s owner, Liz Palmer, has currently capped the class at 45 people. At our last tasting — I say “our” because I’m president of the Alliance’s board of directors — we had way more tasters show up than we expected. Suffice it to say we have refined the registration process. The address is 427 Lovett Blvd., two blocks east of Montrose.
Lots of wine (and food) in The Woodlands
The predictable expansive program for http://wineandfoodweek.com June 5-11 in The Woodlands will rock as usual, co-founder Constance McDerby promises, and be assured that Constance always delivers. This year’s theme is “Wine + Food = Art” with McDerby explaining: “Wine and food are like art because they express the culture, imagination and passion of the people who create them.”
In addition, Texas Monthly food writer Patricia Sharpe, whose tenure with the magazine spans almost five decades, will be a most deserving honoree. Tickets for all the fun stuff — there’s way too much to recount in detail here — can be purchased at the website.
Sippin’ with Sporty
White
2021 The Paring Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “Few Sauvignon Blanc wines this youthful can also boast this level of complexity. The nose is deliciously exotic, with lemon, melon and white peach soaring out of the glass. The wine’s laser beam of acidity refreshes and cleanses the palate, while its decadent texture demands another mouthwatering sip.
“From me: “What he said! Kudos to Matt Dees. This is the best sauvignon blanc I’ve tasted this year, and I’ve tasted a few.”
Red
2018 The Paring Red Blend
From the winemaker: “This Cabernet-inspired blend displays classic notes of cassis, tobacco and chocolate. Focused fruit and shapely tannins shine as hallmarks of what we’ve come to expect from the sandy soils and slightly cooler climate of the winery’s outstanding vineyard sites.
From Jeb Dunnuck: “It’s a medium to full-bodied, ripe, rounded, nicely concentrated blend with lots of ripe currant and blackberry fruits (plus) an herbal kick in its tobacco, earth, and ripe herb aromas and flavors. Ideal for drinking over the coming 5-7 years or more.”
From me: The Paring wines represent an intriguing counterpart to their better known siblings, JONATA and the Hilt, having been made with grapes primarily from vineyard blocks in Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley, Dees says, “that are either too young or don’t fit into the vintage style (of the aforementioned). The Paring is a cut of each estate. The Paring puts pedigree first, and then lets imagination take over.” Surprisingly given the neighborhood, it’s a Bordeaux-style blend with cabernet sauvignon making up 50 percent. Like the white, it’s a superb effort at this price point.
$25.99 at http://wine.com
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, May 17, at R-C Ranch. $125. http://eventbrite.com
Wine Tasting Class — World of Whites: 7 p.m. Wednesday, May 17, at Crust Pizza Co. $5 http://eventbrite.com
Texas Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, May 18, at JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://eventbrite.com
Nine and Wine — National Wine Day: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at Riverhouse Houston. $30 http://eventbrite.com
Tolaini Tuscan Wine Dinner with Lia Tolaini-Banville: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at the Rainbow Lodge. $165 plus tax and gratuity. https://www.rainbow-lodge.com/tolaini-wine-dinner
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts. I’m hoping a new one will drop next week.
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime has been on the road again — isn’t he always? — and raves about recent memorable meal at the famed Ballato’s on East Houston St. But he’ll be back in H-town for a Chianti Consorzio tasting he’s conducting Wednesday.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra shares her latest story for Galveston Monthly, featuring wines she tasted recently in Paso Robles. She gets around, too.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger focuses on the Bingham Family Vineyards Trebbiano, tasted on a visit to the winery in Hye.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff gives us the lowdown on the best samples (right, freebies) he has tasted through recently.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat provides a rundown of Texas wine happenings in the merry month of May.
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As much as I love kicking back in the French Alps for a few months every year, it comes with a price, and no small measure of regret, because it means missing lots of cool wine folks passing through Houston. We’re a front-burner destination for pretty much everybody these days with so many brilliant sommeliers, first-rate restaurant wine lists and deep-pocketed collectors.
It was a group of the latter that brought Cyril and Blakesley Chappellet to our neck of the woods a few weeks ago and, fortunately, I was still in town to have lunch with them at Tony’s, which sells both the Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. That evening, they would host a dinner at Bludorn for their local wine club members, more of whom, they swear, live in our neighborhood than almost anywhere else. Further proof that we H-towners have exquisite taste.
After the confining horrors of COVID-19, the Chappellets, shown above of course, are making it a point to get out to see their people firsthand as frequently as possible. And they’ve got plenty to celebrate, having recently become the first American winery to be represented globally in Châine des Rôtisseurs restaurants. This is a very big deal, folks, and it’s much deserved. Just one man’s opinion here, but I believe their Pritchard Hill Cab is consistently America’s finest red wine, a grand cru in every sense.
And Pritchard Hill (replete with lavender fields, as seen above) represents the best-of-the-best mountain terroir. Consider the Chappellet’s neighbors up on those fabled slopes east of Oakville: Brand. Bryant Family. Colgin Cellars. Continuum. Dalla Valle. Ovid. That’s a seriously chichi/chin-chin neighborhood, although, ironically, it’s not an official AVA — nor will it likely ever be — because of Donn Chappellet. Cyril’s visionary late father, who bought his first vineyard property there in 1968, trademarked the Pritchard Hill name in 1971. Only Chappellet can use it on a bottle.
Were an AVA created, Donn once explained, “dozens of wineries could put Pritchard Hill on the label, and destroy the valuable name.”
Blakesley refers to their neck of the woods as “a lieu-dit,” which is how the French describe a unique geographic area. With 100-plus acres, consisting of 48 distinct blocks at 800 to 1,000 feet above sea level, the Chappellet’s have more land under vine than anyone else. Hence, they can make more wine than their “cult” brethren, which keeps their prices manageable for us non-gadzillionaire collectors.
The 2019 Signature Cabernet goes for an eminently reasonable 90 bucks at http://wine.com. OK, the same vintage of the Pritchard Hill Cab (shown above) is $300, but that still represents value given that all the major critics scored it from 94 to 99 points and a comparable bottle of Colgin, if it could be had, would sell for $700+.
The Chappellets are cutting-edge vintners in numerous ways. Aside from having one of the most visually stunning winery buildings — the Ed Moses-designed structure (pictured below) mirrors the shape of an ancient pyramid — they are now able to offset their entire PG&E bill by using solar power, and their their grapes have been all organically grown since 2012. The water used for irrigation is runoff from rainstorms, of which they have had plenty lately.
This is a good thing. Far and away the most striking bit of news Cyril revealed during our conversation was that he spends about 70 percent of his waking hours these days focusing on finding solutions to the monstrous fire issues Pritchard Hill and the rest of Napa and Sonoma now confront almost annually. He now has a full-time fire chief on his winery staff, and he owns his own fire truck. In August of 2020, when hundreds of lightning strikes during violent thunderstorms ignited out-of-control infernos across the Vacas, the Chappellets narrowly averted catastrophic damage.
“It’s the single important issue we’re facing,” he said. “Everything we’ve built could be gone in 24 hours.”
Considering how much they’ve built, and how much good they do at every level in California’s wine community, that’s a horrifying thought.
Breaking news
The new Sonoma Wine & Cheese in the Stomping Grounds complex on W. 34th St. in Garden Oaks opens to the public at 2 p.m. Tuesday. (Yep, I wish I could be there.) It again gives Farah Cauley three locations, joining the original on Richmond Ave. in the Upper Kirby District and the suburban destination in Katy. In effect, it replaces Cauley’s lovely spot on Studemont in the Heights that closed last summer.
The Stomping Grounds will be home to a variety of food- and beverage-centric businesses and also offers an 8,000-square-foot greensward where all manner of fun things will be taking place.
Central Coast and Paso Robles wine dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 4, at Atkins House. $85 http://eventbrite.com
Derby Wine Fest: 2:30 p.m. Saturday, May 6, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $150. http://eventbrite.com
Central Coast and Paso Robles wine dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 4, at Atkins House. $85 http://eventbrite.com
Derby Wine Fest: 2:30 p.m. Saturday, May 6, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $150. http://eventbrite.com
Mother’s Day Charcuterie Workshop and Wine Tasting: 11:30 a.m. Saturday, May 13, at JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Cesari Italian Wine Tasting: 4 p.m. Saturday, May 13, at Memorial Wine Cellar. $50. http://eventbrite.com
Mother’s Day Rose Tasting: 1 p.m. Sunday, May 14, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35. http://eventbrite.com
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, May 17, at R-C Ranch. $125. http://eventbrite.com
Texas Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, May 18, at JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://eventbrite.com
Nine and Wine — National Wine Day: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at Riverhouse Houston. $30 http://eventbrite.com
Tolaini Tuscan Wine Dinner with Lia Tolaini-Banville: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at the Rainbow Lodge. $165 plus tax and gratuity. https://www.rainbow-lodge.com/tolaini-wine-dinner
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Nick Caserio
The Texans’ much-maligned general manager, previously best known for his mumbo-jumbo press conference non-answers, had himself one helluva draft, didn’t he? Only three picks into the first round, Casserio had already snared both a for-real quarterback in Ohio State’s C.J. Stroud and a defensive game-changer in Will Anderson. Better still, Anderson played linebacker at Alabama, just like his new coach, DeMeco Ryans, did back in the day. Further, both were the second picks by the Texans in drafts with first-year head coaches (Anderson, though, went third to Ryans’ 33rd overall). Karma out the wazoo here.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime gives us the lowdown on the Valpolicella tasting he’s hosting for the “Famiglie Storiche” association (Historic Families of Amarone) at the Hotel Za Za on Main St. Wednesday, May 3. Be there or be square. Being in France, I guess I’m stuck with square this time, dammit.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra shares the comprehensive piece she wrote about Italian pinot grigios for Galveston Monthly.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger touts Fall Creek Vineyards’ 2021 Lescalo Rosé, a low-alcohol (9.8 percent) springtime sipper.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff shares some bad news: ACORN, one of his favorite California wineries, is closing its doors, although owners Betsy and Bill Nachbaur will continue to farm their Alegria Vineyard with its 111 different varietals.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat extolls the virtues of the excellent primitivos from Manduria, in Italy’s Puglia region.
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The one “problem” with having a home in the Southern Alps is that, once I’m here, I don’t much want to venture far afield. This spring, however, presented us with a dilemma, and, in the end, an opportunity. We always lease a new Peugeot through a wonderful outfit called Auto France, but there were no cars available for pickup before April 15 and we already had our tickets for an April 11 departure. At first, Paris was going to be our stopover, but the ongoing chaos there over President Macron’s determined efforts to raise the retirement age from 62 to 64 — I know, zoot alors! — made that detour unappealing.
It didn’t take long to choose an alternative. Champagne, less than two hours to the northeast. Bien sur!
My only previous visits to bubbles country had been during my Tour de France slogs, which left little time for tasting, never mind actually exploring. I considered this a huge hole in my resume. But, although I was way past due for making a real pilgrimage, I didn’t want to visit any of the big champagne houses. I know their wines. I respect their wines. But there was no reason to taste them in France when I can easily taste them in Houston. I also wanted to avoid Reims and it’s big-city traffic snarls, so we instead randomly chose three relatively-off-the-beaten-path family-owned producers:
- Sabine Godmé in Verzenay just across the road from the landmark Phare lighthouse (pictured above)
- Guy Charbaut in Mareuil-sur-Ay, a stone’s throw from the Billecart-Salmon headquarters
- Marion-Bosser in Hautvillers, only a short walk from the abbey where the 17th-century monk Dom Perignon made his name as the spiritual father of Champagne, and also where he’s buried.
All were excellent in their own ways. Unfortunately, availability for each in Houston seems to be an issue. You’ll see a Hugh Godmé champagne on Shawn Virene’s extensive list at a’Bouzy, but Hugh is Sabine’s brother. Some years ago they divided the 11-hectare grand cru Godmé property on the Montagne de Reims and agreed to disagree, going their separate ways.
A striking common thread among the three multi-generational houses is that each has a new-generation winemaker taking over, determined to reinvent their respective wheels. At Sabine Godmé, son Matthieu is doing is doing his own thing — and replacing his mom’s name with his on the label. His dad, Jean Marie Guillaume (pictured below), said with a chuckle, admitting that, to truly pass the torch, “You have to kill the father.” Or mother, in this case. In three years, the business will be Matthieu’s alone to run. Sabine and Jean Marie are contemplating resettling in Brittany.
At Marion-Bosser, Elodie Marion becomes the fourth woman in her family to call the shots, while Hélène Charbaut has launched her own distinct lineup of wines at Charbaut. Interestingly, the three young vignerons have all put aging in neutral wood barrels front and center in their respective wine-making strategies, something that was once largely unheard-of in their neck of the woods.
What I’d forgotten about the region’s terroir is how stunningly beautiful it is, from the vineyard-covered slopes of the Montagne de Reims south to the visually similar and no less striking chardonnay country in the Côtes de Blancs with bustling yet still charming Épernay in the middle, hard by the Marne River. There, of course, you’ll find the châteaux-lined Avenue de Champagne, a street dating from the 18th century that’s so remarkable it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Underneath the pavement? Some 60 miles of champagne-filled caves dug through the limestone that defines the flavors of these wines.
Having barely scratched the surface, we will surely return soon . . . But probably not in mid-April. The weather was, in a word, miserable, equal parts cold and wet. No matter. Those wonderfully therapeutic tiny bubbles proved the perfect antidote.
Black Wine: 7 p.m. Wednesday, April 26, at Agora Haus. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Central Coast and Paso Robles wine dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 4, at Atkins House. $85 http://eventbrite.com
Derby Wine Fest: 2:30 p.m. Saturday, May 6, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $150. http://eventbrite.com
Mother’s Day Charcuterie Workshop & Wine Tasting: JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, May 17, at R-C Ranch. $125. http://eventbrite.com
Tolaini Tuscan Wine Dinner with Lia Tolaini-Banville: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 25, at the Rainbow Lodge. $165 plus tax and gratuity. https://www.rainbow-lodge.com/tolaini-wine-dinner
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Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime speaks of rekindling an old love affair on his recent trip to Italy. It’s a restaurant, though, the Dispensa Pani e Vini in the heart of Franciacorta country.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra shares the comprehensive piece she wrote about Italian pinot grigios for Galveston Monthly.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger touts the 2021 Airis’Ele Vineyards Redlin Dry Rosé made from a blend of Farmhouse Vineyards Texas High Plains red grapes.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff reviews wines he has tasted of late and gives a particularly loud shout-out to a bottle of the 2010 Skewis Pinot Noir Lingenfelder from the Russian River Valley.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat tells us everything we need to know about what’s happening in the world of Texas wine in April.
The Sporty Wine Guy
All things wine… but a little sports talk, too
