-
Assuming the tennis at River Oaks ever gets done, and the weather sure isn’t cooperating, I’m heading back to France for a couple months come Tuesday. It’s going to be a great stay punctuated with a nine-day wine tour through the (hopefully) sunny south that I’m helping lead with my friend Pablo Valqui. But I do very much regret not being here to cover The Chevron Championship at Carlton Woods April 19-23 — formerly the Dinah Shore, it’s one of the five majors on the LPGA Tour — and I’m going to miss by a single day the opening of a hip new wine outpost, Padre’s, in the Heights.
At least William Farley’s stylish “bottle shop by day and a “speakeasy” by night,” which goes live next Wednesday at 3522 White Oak, will still be here when I return, whereas the lady golfers will be long gone. Padre’s represents a major life course correction for the Louisiana-born, Houston-reared Farley, who, in 2019, quit his day job in oil and gas to travel to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, where he threw himself into the fascinating world of wine. Bottles from those countries will be front-and-center in the Padre’s portfolio, although France and Italy will be well-represented, too.
There’s a membership component, too. Monthly is $75, good for three wines and five-percent off bar purchases. Quarterly costs $300, but you get 12 wines — delivered free on the last Monday of each quarter — plus the five-percent discount in house.
As for the name, Farley explains, “It honors my father, who friends, family and strangers alike endearingly referred to as ‘Padre.’ Padre’s Wine is an effort to not only share and teach about good wine but to create a space in the Heights for people to come together as a community, enjoy good wine, taste new things, kick back and relax.”
Farley hired Nick Nguyen, a 20-year veteran of the Houston hospitality scene, to serve as his manager, sommelier and restaurant operations specialist. You’ll recognize Nguyen if you frequented Musaafer, Riel, Kata Robata and most recently Da Gama, his previous postings. It seems the two of them (shown above) first met, then bonded, over indoor bouldering. Well, why not?
“William’s vision and passion for wine aligns with mine,” Nguyen said. “We can talk for hours about anything while enjoying it over a glass of wine. That’s what we want for our guests at Padre’s. We want to make sure that attention to detail is never missed, from stylish furniture to the smell of the trees and the sound of the music to soothe your inner soul.”
Best of luck and cheers, guys! As for me and my inner soul, we can’t wait to drop by this summer.
Sippin’ with Sporty
BUBBLES
Chandon Garden Spritz
From the winemaker: “It’s a blend of an exceptional sparkling wine and a unique bitters recipe crafted with locally sourced fresh oranges macerated with dry orange peels, herbs and spices carefully selected from the finest terroirs in the world. We bring nature to the world of spritz. No artificial flavors and no artificial colorants are used at any stage in its production.”
From me: One fellow reviewer nailed this spot-on spring/summer aperitif perfectly, describing it as being “an orange version of a kir royale where the fruit flavor is provided by a thick rich liqueur instead of fruit juice.” In fact, no actual fruit juice from the Valencia oranges goes into the wine. I wasn’t expecting all that much when I saw the bottle, to be honest, but I’m all in now. While it’s super easy to drink, it’s got plenty of nuance, too, with a very pleasing price.
$18.99 at Total Wine
WHITES
2021 C.L. Butaud Blanc de Noir
From the winemaker: “Blanc de noir is a white wine made from a red grape, a technique you see all the time with pinot noir and pinot meunier in Champagne, where base wines are blended in the creation of a single wine. It is more unusual to make it as a still wine. Here red grapes are gently pressed just until very clear, pale juices run out of the fruit. Since the skin doesn’t imprint any color or tannin, the wine expresses the aromatics of the grape, allowing the brightest, purest expression to come through. This is what makes it interesting to me: it’s a different way to explore the taste of a grape.”
From The Terroirist, Isaac James Baker, who scored it a 90: “The aromas pop with tons of flowers and dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apple peel, and there are also these cool tobacco, mint, and sliced cucumber elements. The palate sports crunchy acidity on a medium-bodied, steely frame. Flavors of white cherries and tart green apple mix well with notes of white pepper, basil, and dandelion flowers.”
From me: A half-and-half blend of grenache and mourvedre, it’s a wine that I think, in many ways defines Randy Hester, who, by the way, grew up in Houston. In short, he’s always looking for ways to think outside the box. Note that Hester suggests we don’t try to over-analyze the flavors (Baker, it seems, had other ideas) but rather just kick back and enjoy it. I’m with you, Randy.
$48 at http://clbutaud.com
2021 The Paring Sauvignon Blanc
From the winemaker: “Defined by powerful fruit and balanced by mouthwatering freshness; an exotic, decadently textured and electrically framed bottle of sauvignon blanc. The nose is deliciously exotic, with lemon, melon and white peach soaring out of the glass. The wine’s laser beam of acidity refreshes and cleanses the palate, while its decadent texture demands another sip.”
From me: My wife is the family’s most savvy sav blanc taster and she absolutely loved it. I did, too. Winemaker Matt Dees aged the wine for 10 months in a combination of new and neutral French oak as well stainless steel, then bottled it unfined and unfiltered. A marvelous effort for under 25 bucks.
$23.99 at http://wine.com
RED
2020 Juggernaut Hillside California Cabernet Sauvignon
From the winemaker: “Dense and velvety with vanilla and ripe black currants. French oak beautifully transforms intense hillside fruit into a wine with uncommon richness and smooth, luxurious texture. Juggernaut Hillside Cabernet is a wine that is fierce, brave, and delicious.”
From Wilfred Wong of wine.com, who scored it an 8.9: “The wine is a medium red with satisfying textures on the palate. It shows aromas and flavors of savory spices, dried earthy notes, and light berries.”
From me: I’ve long been partial to cabs made from hillside vineyards so this one checks that box bigtime. Exactly which hillsides are in play doesn’t get explained anywhere that I can find, but, even if the fruit isn’t sourced come from the highest-rent districts, it’s plenty satisfying, certainly at this price point.
$18.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Relevant Cabernet Sauvignon Crown Point
From the winemaker: “An inspiring introduction to Crown Point, it aptly mirrors the attributes of the 2019 vintage with dark fruit, balanced, smooth structure, trademark Mediterranean spice and finishing with length and tension. The after-palate is tremendously pleasurable, bringing notes of violets and rhubarb.”
From the Wine Advocate, which scored it a 95: “Deep ruby, it features pure aromas of cassis, grilled meats, warm chocolate, dried herbs, roasted peppers and hints of violet. The medium-bodied palate is powdery and fresh, striking a balance between ripe blackcurrant fruit, classy new oak spices and alluring herbal streaks. It’s a balanced, drinkable style of Cabernet that’s a pleasure to drink! Best after 2022.
From me: Truth to tell, I got a crazy good deal through a buddy on this wine made from grapes grown in an aptly named corner of Santa Barbara County called Happy Canyon, but it offers bigtime value even at the price below, having spent 20 months in French oak, including some new barrels. I know what you’re thinking, though: Cab from Santa Barbara? Wut? Well, apparently the microclimate is perfect for the varietal with the narrowness of the valley concentrating heat and keeping that cold damp wind off the Pacific away from the vines.
$89.99 at http://wine.com
SERCA Wines Tasting: 4 p.m. Saturday, April 8, at the SERCA Tasting Room in the Heights. $15. http://eventbrite.com
Three-Course wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, April 11, at Roma. Free. 713 664-7581. http://romahouston.com
National Malbec Day Tasting Celebration: 6-8 p.m. Saturday, April 15, at SERCA Wines tasting room. $72 (Club members $60) http://eventbrite.com
Katy Sip N Stroll: Saturday, April 15, at The Ballard House. http://sipandstroll.com
Vin de Table: Noon, Sunday, April 16, at 1412 W. Main. $70. http://eventbrite.com
JMP Wine Night — Truly Greek, Truly Unique: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, April 20. $75. JMP Tasting Room in Humble. http://eventbrite.com
Black Wine: 7 p.m. Wednesday, April 26, at Agora Haus. Free. http://eventbrite.com
Central Coast and Paso Robles wine dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, May 4, at Atkins House. $85 http://eventbrite.com
Derby Wine Fest: 2:30 p.m. Saturday, May 6, at Brenner’s on the Bayou. $150. http://eventbrite.com
Mother’s Day Charcuterie Workshop & Wine Tasting: JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. $75. http://eventbrite.com
Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, May 17, at R-C Ranch. $125. http://eventbrite.com
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: http://@sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime, shown above, speaks of pairing matzah with wine, both of which will, of course, be served for this year’s Passover Seder.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra shares the comprehensive piece she wrote about Italian pinot grigios for Galveston Monthly.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger announces his next Level 1 Zoom class in May for those interested in becoming certified Texas wine experts.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff offers a visual tour of his current Napa-Sonoma tour, where he’s catching up with old friends and sampling as much wine as possible. A full tasting report, no doubt, will follow.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat tells us everything we need to know about what’s happening in the world of Texas wine in April.
-
This old house turned into the pour house again Thursday night and a good time was had by almost everyone with the Dionysus Imports French portfolio, co-presented by importer/distributor Douglas Skopp and AOC Selections director of operations Brandon Kerne, taking center stage.
Fifty folks showed up when we were expecting maybe 30. That’s both good news and bad news . . . but mostly good news. It told me people are delighted to return to the Alliance, which through the years Spec’s Bear Dalton had turned into one of Houston’s best wine destinations before his untimely passing in 2020, despite our parking challenges in the heart of Montrose.
Logistically, we were a little overwhelmed given the thirsty crush and things got a little raucous at the end, forcing Skopp (pictured below) and Kerne to shout above the din. But we promise to do better next time. Hey, baby steps . . . Most importantly, the 10 Dionysus wines, all from the Rhone Valley, were outstanding across the board and it was especially fun to converse with people who weren’t familiar with a number of them, or even the region itself.
My favorite by the narrowest of margins proved to be Evan Bakke’s 2015 Clos de Trias from the Ventoux AOC, a red I hadn’t sampled in a number of years and a wine you’ll read more about later in this space. I’ve already bought three bottles through http://aocselections.com, where all the wines presented can be purchased.
Looking ahead, please put June 21 on your calendar and 427 Lovett Blvd. on your GPS. In France, they celebrate the Summer Solstice with the Fête de la Musique and we intend to do the same with a piano concert paired with Madame Zero Champagne, a France-Houston hybrid if ever there was one from Galveston-born Matthew Massey. More details forthcoming as the date draws closer!
Sippin’ with Sporty
WHITE
2015 Fiddlehead Cellars “Bebble” Grüner Veltliner
From the winemaker: “Elegant and sophisticated notes of ground vanilla bean with hints of coriander and citrus, along with the traditional white pepper notes, barely ripe pineapple, cucumber and honeydew melon. There is wonderful leanness buried beneath its weighty expression. You can almost feel the chalky, wet stone minerality translating from our clay soils, littered with chert and shale, to give mineral depth to this beauty.”
From me: You think grüner, you think Austria. Well, think again. This is a lovely effort from winemaker Kathy Joseph, whose just under three-acre Fiddlestix Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County delivers the bracing minerality the hand-picked, night-harvested, field-sorted grapes needs to fully express itself. The name honors her mom, Babette, who answered to “Bebble” around the house.
$42 from http://shopfiddleheadcellars.com
REDS
2020 Notre Dame de Pallières Rasteau
From the winemaker: “Sourced from the Roux family’s plot “Les Ribes” at the top of Ratanaud, the hill that shares the valley of the Aygues and Ouvèze, comes this rustic mouthful of a Rasteau. The old vines here enjoy unusually cold nights and the pebbles on the ground are bountiful.
From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 90: “Cassis and blackberry flavors are ripe but mouthwatering in this full-bodied red. A grenache-dominant blend augmented by smaller proportions of mourvèdre, syrah and cinsault, it’s buoyantly fruity but maintains a twist of herbal freshness. The wine finishes on complexities of crushed stone, bramble and charred cinnamon. Ready now it should hold well through 2025.”
From me: Right in my wheelhouse, this Southern Rhone gem. It’s a wine I’d gotten away from drinking — just forget about it, I suppose — but it’s back on my shelf again, to stay.
$22.99 at Spec’s
2020 Bonarrigo Family Wines Heritage Reserve
From the winemaker: “A bold blend of traditional Italian varieties this wine has savory nuances of herbs and spice. Beautiful dark fruit flavors and tannins coat the palate with elegant complexity.”
From me: I’ve always thought Messina Hof made a world-class sagrantino and that grape, most famous in Umbria, is front and center in this bold, well-structured red, joining forces with primitivo and sangiovese. One of the best bottles I’ve tasted in 2023, it’s a perfect pairing for brisket and a whole lot of other hearty entrees.
$40 at http://messinahoforderport.net
Charcuterie workshop and Wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, March 29 at JMP Tasting Room in Humble. $75. http://eventbrite.com
“Rascally Rabbits” Spring Taste and Buy — 1-4 p.m. Saturday, April 1 at http://aocselections.com
SERCA Wines Tasting: 4 p.m. Saturday, April 8, at the SERCA Tasting Room in the Heights. . $15. http://eventbrite.com
Katy Sip N Stroll: Saturday, April 15 at The Ballard House. http://sipandstroll.com
JMP Wine Night — Truly Greek, Truly Unique: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, April 20. $75. JMP Tasting Room in Humble. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jose Altuve
And hoping he returns better than ever after suffering a broken thumb when hit by a pitch in a WBC tournament game two weeks before the Astros begin their championship defense. My guess is he’ll be out until late June. Right, ouch! It’s bad for team, of course, but it’s terrible for a guy who’s viably chasing 3,000 hits. Every day counts.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime, shown above, weighs in on the merits, of lack thereof, of organic wines, a favorite topic of his.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Just back from a whirlwind excursion to Paso Robles, Sandra gives us a review of the city’s cool wine quarter called Tin City.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger weighs in on the mysterious origins of the Black Spanish grape, also called Jacquez and Lenoir.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff touts more of the top wines he has been sent as samples of late. Two earned “excellent” ratings with 90-point scores.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat tells us everything we need to know about what’s happening in the world of Texas wine this month.
-
As a rule, Mondays aren’t fun days, but for every rule there’s usually an exception. For example, take my last two Mondays. Most recently, a high-end Duckhorn pairing lunch at Bluedorn overlapped with the again annual Taste of Italy event at the Omni Riverway. There, I sat on a panel with my podcast partner in crime, Jeremy Parzen, and Spec’s wine buyer Tom Dobson discussing the merits of pairing Italian wines with Texas Barbeque, in this case prepared by one of our finest, Ara Malekian, a Swiss-trained chef turned uber-pitmaster at his Harlem Road Barbeque in Richmond.
We’ll get to those wines in a moment. First, let’s speak of Duckhorn, which has long been dear to my heart. One of my earliest wine epiphanies happened while tasting Tom Rinaldi’s mid-1980s Napa Valley Merlots, especially the Three Palms, and we were fortunate to have the opportunity to sample the 2019 vintage of same this week (and note my recommendation for regular 2020 Duckhorn Merlot). It didn’t disappoint. Rinaldi has long since moved on to other projects, including crafting Houston Master Sommelier Guy Stout’s wines, but the current team hasn’t missed a beat.
The star attraction of the lunch, however, were the two new Kosta-Browne offerings . . . from Burgundy.
Really.
Duckhorn, of course, owns Kosta-Browne and had the financial clout to take on such a seemingly complicated venture, one that had Kosta Browne GM Neil Bernardi “holding my breath” as the project came to fruition. You can almost count on one hand how many Americans have ventured into the fabled French AOC. Duckhorn, it seems, entered into a hush-hush partnership with a Côte de Beaune winery that’s calling most of the shots, certainly when it comes to harvesting decisions.
Working with the negociant model — Duckhorn hasn’t yet tried to acquire any vineyards, which are the world’s most expensive — it has released pinot noirs from Beaune and Gevrey-Chambertin (the two we had the privilege of tasting) as well as Pommard and Volnay, plus a chardonnay from Mersault. The reds will sell for $125 and the white for $120. Mailing list wine club members will get first crack at purchasing the wines, although “select markets” will get some, too. Presumably, Houston will be one, since it did make the cut for Duckhorn’s 2023 Pinnacle Tour itinerary.
The wines were vinified and aged in Burgundy — about 30 percent in new oak, at Kosta-Browne’s behest — then transported via temperature-controlled containers to the home base in Sebastopol, Calif., where they were bottled. Both already-fermented juice and whole grapes/must went into the mix.
I found it interesting that Kosta-Browne choose to have the word’s “pinot noir” and “chardonnay” printed on the respective labels. Bernardi — that’s him below — said it was important “to educate the consumer” as to what varietals they would be tasting, although one would assume anyone who would fork over $100-plus for a burgundy wouldn’t need to be told they were drinking, by French law, pinot noir and chardonnay.
But my top tout in the tasting? The spot-on 2020 Calera Mt. Harlan Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir. Calera is, of course, now under the Duckhorn umbrella, too. It also sells for $125 and is arguably the closest California cousin to the Burgundian reds because of the limestone in the dirt.
Calera’s visionary founder Josh Jensen, who died last summer at the age of 78, found his perfect location for growing pinot noir on the remote slopes of Mount Harlan in San Benito County about two hours southeast of San Francisco. The Calera Wine Company, taking its name from the Spanish word for limekiln, opened for business in 1975. Jensen, Bernardi pointed out, had paid $53 an acre for the hardscrabble land, which is 2,200 feet above sea level in the Galiban Mountain Range. You couldn’t touch a single vine for that today in Gevrey- Chambertin.
Now, back to Italy. All of Dobson’s selections, shown below, worked splendidly with Malakien’s sublimely smoked brisket and ribs, including, somewhat counterintuitively, a pinot grigio. Better still, all can be purchased at Spec’s for under $30, cash price. And one was the 2018 La Casa in Collina Barbaresco from ViteColte, a steal at $29.44. My other favorite in the mix was a 2020 barbera from the Cerrino cooperative, priced exactly the same as the can of Illy coffee beans I purchased on my Spec’s excursion: $14.99.
As per usual, there were way more lovely wines in the walk-around room than could be possibly be tasted and most were here seeking importers/distributors in Texas. I’d had the same overwhelming experience the previous Monday when a band of Bordeaux brothers and sisters passed through town. But it’s flattering to see how valuable the Houston market has become for the new wave of winemakers around the world. They wouldn’t be arriving en masse if we didn’t matter.
The surprises in the French lineup were the half-dozen cremants from Bordeaux, pictured below. I’d never tasted one before. They dazzled while offering way better value than those from Burgundy. But, for the moment, availability remains limited.
Separate from the Taste of Italy shindig, I also spent quality time with Alessandro Rotolo, who now presides over the Schiopetto wines launched in 1970 by the legendary Mario Schiopetto, and the Rotolo family’s slightly less famous but no less satisfying Volpe Pasini portfolio. (That’s him below with Schiopetto’s world-class “M.”) Nobody does it better in Friulli than Rotolo’s two teams. My pick in that lineup was the Volpe Pasini “Grin” from the 2021 vintage, which might be the most satisfying pinot grigio I’ve ever tasted and it can be purchased through http://aocselections.com for well under $20.
Sippin’ with Sporty
PINK
2022 Revelation by Goose Ridge
From the winemaker: “The blush pink hue with a floral bouquet is only just the beginning, followed by bursting notes of strawberry and watermelon. A reminder that style and strength are more than just this season’s fashion, they come from within.”
From me: The blend of fruit from the expansive Pacific Ridge Vineyard — Washington’s largest — in the arid southeastern corner of the state is syrah-centric but includes grenache, mourvedre, chardonnay and pinot grigio, surely the first of its kind. The wine has a bit of heft to it and lovely lingering finish. It’s a project of the three generations of women in the Monson family and was released to celebrate International Women’s Day. Brava!
$18 at http://gooseridge.com
WHITE
2017 Capella Sant’Andrea Vernaccia Di San Gimignano Clara Stella
From the winemaker: “Pale lemon in color. Scents of apple, yellow fruits and some white flowers. Fresh acidity and light complexity. Good length with somewhat creamy texture.”
From me: Grape growers and winemakers Flavia Del Seta and Francesco Galgani are organic, minimally interventionist farmers through and through, right down to their use of only spontaneous fermentation. This is a beautiful expression of a wine that often disappoints when made by less meticulous producers.
$22 at Tuttilili Wines and Specialty Foods (http://tuttilili.com)
RED
2020 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “Embodying the alluring beauty of great Napa Valley Merlot, this wine reveals vibrant aromas of red currant, ripe plum, black raspberry, cherry and sweet baking spices, with hints of tea leaves and cocoa. The palate is rich and luxurious, with silky tannins and flavors of ripe red berries, pie crust and fig compote gliding to a bright, elegant finish.”
From James Suckling who scored it a 93: “A juicy and fruity Merlot blend with plum, chocolate and hazelnut aromas and flavors. Full and layered with fleshy tannins and a flavorful finish. Velvety texture. Lovely approachability.”
From me: This reference-standard California merlot has a 17-percent cabernet sauvignon component plus tiny amounts of cab franc and petit verdot in the blend. It’s something of a miracle wine given the terrible impact wildfires had on the region in 2020. Renee Ary’s winemaking team did a splendid job of getting the tainted grapes out of the mix. The yield was smaller, of course, but there was no downtick in quality.
$47.99 at http://wine.com
Boutique wines from Spain tasting: 4 p.m. Friday, March 10, at Memorial Wine Cellar. Free http://eventbrite.com
Downtown Wine and Bear Walk: Noon, March 18, in Rosenberg. http://bit.ly/3WZ81Ja
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. http://eventbrite.com
Rodeo Whiskey and Winefest: 4-7 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Big Brothers and Sisters. $50 http://eventbrite.com
Dionysus Imports French wines tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, March 23, at the Alliance Française Houston. 713 526-1121 $25.
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: http://eventbrite.com
Katy Sip N Stroll: Saturday, April 15 at The Ballard House. http://sipandstroll.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Kelvin Sampson
The real season, a.k.a. March Madness, starts now, but finishing the practice season as the No. 1 team in the country is nothing to sneeze at. This old Coug ar stands in awe of Sampson’s magnificent rebuild of the University of Houston basketball program. Eat ’em up, eat ’em up, rah rah rah!!!
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
Jeremy, shown above, gives us the full lowdown on the hot new Nizza appellation for barberas in Italy’s Piemonte.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra reports on a recent tasting she participated in at the Texas Wine School with Jean Trimbach, whose Maison Trimbach sells more wine in the U.S. than any other Alsatian producer.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger takes a far-afield detour from his usual stomping grounds and samples the wines from Sojourn, which works with some of the best vineyards in Napa and Sonoma Counties.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff touts the best wines he has been sent as samples of late. All of them, as it happens, are French.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)
Kat tells us everything we need to know about what’s happening in the world of Texas wine this month.
-
Most of what follows appeared in the Houston Chronicle’s Rodeo Section a week ago. But I’ve made a few updates, too.
Although it may seem incongruous at first glance, bubbles and bull riding will share almost equal billing during the 2023 Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo. But it makes perfect sense considering that promoting agriculture through a vast array of scholarships is at the center of the Rodeo’s mission and grape-growers are most definitely farmers.
However, the man behind the current Grand Champion Best of Show bottle is the rapper Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson, which segues nicely, too. Music, of course, is a critical component of the 20-day jam on the NRG grounds that’s part sports spectacle, part music festival and part wine-tasting. Once again, the Rodeo’s Champion Wine Garden at Carruth Plaza between NRG Stadium and the Astrodome, will become the city’s most visited wine bar for 20 evenings – Feb. 28 through March 19 – and Jackson’s Le Chemin du Roi Brut Champagne figures to be flowing freely there, along with the other most decorated wines.
Jackson considers Houston home these days, so his Le Chemin du Roi champagne’s topping a field of 3,071 entries from 18 countries is all the more special. A regular bottle of his bubbles sell for about $142 at Spec’s, but a special nine-litter bottle brought in a record $325,000 at the Rodeo Uncorked Champion Wine Auction and Dinner Sunday night. Le Chemin du Roi had previously claimed Reserve Grand Champion honors in 2021.
Jackson stepped up personally, too, spending $165,000 for a nine-litter bottle of the Reserve Grand Champion Best of Show, the 2020 Bernhardt Winery Antiquity Reserve Chardonnay Danube Plain.
Live music adds to the Wine Garden’s nightly energy and there’s an added educational component with almost daily seminars featuring food and wine pairings presided over by some of Houston’s leading oenophiles. The series kicks off Wednesday evening with Ryan Levy’s presentation about pairing wine with “decadent” chocolate.” Levy, co-owner of the Houston-based Nice Winery, is himself a former Rodeo scholarship recipient, and he readily credits that assistance for helping make his career in wine possible.
His 2018 Cabernet Franc from California’s Paicines AVA was the Reserve Grand Champion for 2022 and a nine-liter bottle of same sold for $200,000 at the Champion Wine Auction. Three of his wines earned double golds this year. Levy will also conduct a a tasting of the competition’s highest-scoring bubbles on Thursday, March 9.
Master Sommelier Guy Stout presides over a tasting of the top award-winners Tuesday, March 14. Reservations for the complete seminar lineup can be made at rodeohouston.com/wine.
The Wine Garden will be open from 4 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4 to midnight on Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight on Saturday and noon to 10 p.m. on Sunday. And everything you need about the 77 wines in the lineup can be found at http://rodeowinegardenwine4me/home. My wine friend Amy Gross did a remarkable job of setting up this app. Brava!
The Rodeo wine “season” officially kicked off with the Round Up and Best Bites competition at NRG Center last Sunday, when more than 450 wines and signature dishes from 100-plus local restaurants were available for tasting.
The top two finishers in each category:
Outstanding Showmanship Award — 1, Eculent. 2. Brother’s Produce.
People’s Choice Award — 1. Cotton Culinary, The Cotton Pearl (duck fat crostini with wagyu beef and lemon verblanc pearl). 2. Patra Lee’s Kitchen (caramel stracciatella ice cream with praline ethiopie and whiskey caramel swirl).
Tasty Tradition Award — 1. Joyce’s Seafood & Steaks (white chocolate bread pudding). 2. Carrabba’s (meatballs and romano cheese with homemade pomodoro sauce).
Trailblazer Appetizer Award — 1. Low Tide Kitchen & Bar (Ceviche with Cilantro Citrus Sauce on Corn Tortilla Chip). 2. Terrace 54 Bar & Table (Bang Bang Shrimp tossed in its signature bang sauce.
Lone Star Entrée Award — 1. Patagonia Grill & Café (sausage-ribeye outside skirt Steak). 2. Calavera Mexican Kitchen (Taco Al Pastor with grilled pineapple, salsa taquero with onion and cilantro, corn tortilla)
Two-Steppin’ Dessert Award — 1. Mostly Chocolate (Tequila añejo 2.0, barrel aged tequila chocolate bonbon, a caramelized, lime sea salt & tequila infused ganache layered with a creamy milk chocolate tequila ganache). 2. Whisky Cake (whiskey cake).
Rookie Award — Patra Lee’s Kitchen (caramel stracciatella ice cream with praline ethiopie and whiskey caramel swirl).
The Barbeque Cookoff champions will be determined this Sunday, while the Champion Wine Auction happens Sunday night. It figures to raise in excess of $1 million through both live and silent bidding. In 2022, a consortium of bidders paid a Rodeo record $250,000 for a nine-liter bottle of the Grand Champion Best of Show, the 2017 J. Lohr Vineyards Cuvee PAU Red from Paso Robles.
Once the Rodeo starts, the Wine Garden will be open from 4 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4 to midnight on Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight on Saturday and noon to 10 p.m. on Sunday.
The 2023 Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition champions:
* Grand Champion Best of Show: Le Chemin du Roi Brut, Champagne AOC, NV
* Reserve Grand Champion Best of Show: Bernhardt Winery Antiquity Chardonnay Reserve, Danube Plain, 2020
* Top Texas Wine: Becker Vineyards Barbera, Tallent Vineyards, Texas Hill Country, 2019
* Top Red Wine: Bernardus Marinus Estate Red, Carmel Valley, 2015
* Top White Wine: Chateau Saint-Roch Old Vines White, Cotes du Roussillon AOP, 2020
* Top Sparkling wine: Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive Brut Rosé Champagne AOC, NV
* Top Dessert Wine: Dandelion Vineyards Legacy of Australia Pedro Ximenez, Australia, NV
* Top Region Wine: Henschke Henry’s Seven Red, Barossa, 2020
* Top Value Wine: Risata Wines Moscato d’Asti DOCG, 2021
* Top Wine Company – E&J Gallo Winery
* Top Region Wine Company – Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits
* Top All-Around Winery – Becker Vineyards
* Top Texas Winery – Messina Hof Winery
Grand Champion Best of Show wines though the years:
* 2023 – Le Chemin du Roi Brut, Champagne AOC, NV
* 2022 – J. Lohr Cuvee PAU Red Paso Robles 2017
* 2021 – Alexander Valley Vineyards CYRUS Alexander Valley 2014
* 2020 – Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne
* 2019 – Graham Beck Brut Rosé South Africa
* 2018 – J. Lohr Vineyards Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2014
* 2017 – Arinzano Gran Vino Blanco, Pago de Arinzano 2010
* 2016 – Orin Swift Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Mercury Head Napa Valley 2013
* 2015 – Rombauer Vineyards Diamond Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
* 2014 – Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2009
* 2013 – Alexander Valley Vineyards Cyrus Alexander Valley 2008
* 2012 – Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2007
* 2011 – Alexander Valley Vineyards Cyrus Alexander Valley 2006
* 2010 – Davis Family Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005
* 2009 – Vina Robles Suendero Paso Robles 2006
* 2008 – Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2003
* 2007 – Clos du Bois Marlstone Alexander Valley 2003
* 2006 – Raymond Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2001
* 2005 – Hang Time Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 2003
* 2004 – Alexander Valley Vineyards CYRUS Alexander Valley 1999
-
I’ve had several memorable visits with wine folks over the last several weeks and I’d like to share their stories with you, at least briefly. In order, they were . . .
Tony Parker
La Mascaronne
Yep, that Tony Parker, the basketball player, the guy who won four NBA championships over his 17 seasons with the San Antonio Spurs and who, as of this weekend, is a finalist for the Basketball Hall of Fame. He’s also the part-owner of La Mascaronne, a gorgeous winery on a lovely spot in the Var above St. Tropez that American Tom Bove oversaw until he sold it to the entrepreneur Michel Reybier, who subsequently brought in Parker as a partner. Back in 2000, Reybier paid $115 million for the famed Bordeaux estate Cos d’Estournel and remains its proprietor.
Parker grew up French, of course, and began drinking wine as soon as he was old enough to buy it — well, maybe a little before then — but it was his long, fruitful relationship with Spurs coach Greg Popovich, a hyper-serious oenophile, that turned him into a knowledgeable consumer in his own right. If Parker and Popovich weren’t talking hoops on Spurs flights, they were talking wine. And they are still talking. Parker splits his time between Texas and Lyon, where he owns the men’s and women’s pro teams. He still frequently picks Pop’s brain on matters of personnel and strategy.
And wine.
“It was nice to have a coach share his passion with me,” Parker said. He might have added, “And his palate.”
I spent quality time on the phone with Parker recently and I’m hoping to speak with Popovich, too, when the Spurs return from the All-Star break for a story I’ve been asked to write for the San Antonio Express-News. Basketball-wise, it has been a terrible year for the 74-year-old coach, his worst ever in fact, but he can find some solace in a wine collection that numbers in the thousands of bottles. I’d bet Pop even has a few left from the historically great 1982 vintage in Bordeaux, which also happens to be Parker’s birth year.
An intriguing coincidence, to be sure.
Giorgio Pelissero
Pelissero, a third-generation grape-grower/vintner in Treiso in the heart of the Barbaresco country (pictured above with yours truly), has been making wines under his family name since 1989, 29 years after the first Pelissero vintage was released, and they are across-the-board excellent. He’s especially proud of his dolcettos because, rather than pull out those vines and replace them with nebbiolo like so many of his neighbors have done, he’s defiantly leaving them to thrive right where they are, in places he knows aren’t conducive to making Nebbiolo d’Albas.
Given nebbiolo’s exalted status in the world’s wine pecking order, is it a good business decision? He doesn’t care.
“(Winemaking) for me is a passion, not a business,” Pelissero explained. “I don’t like the word ‘business.’”
You’ll be able to taste Pelissero’s wines at Sofia in the Heights March 3 (see below) and hopefully the Long Now Langhe Rosso, a particularly compelling 50-50 nebbiolo-barbera blend, will be in the mix. The name pays homage to the Long Now Foundation, founded in 1996 to foster “long-term” thinking. Or, as the website explains, “Our work encourages imagination at the timescale of civilization — the next and last 10,000 years — a timespan we call the long now.”
Yes, Pelissero’s wine is age-worthy.
Sam Jaoude
Jaoude, who now lives in Houston, had been importing a variety of goods and food items from his native Lebanon for a number of years before he decided to explore the possibility of bringing in wines, too. But, while most consumers had heard of Lebanon’s most widely distributed producer, Chateau Musar, he would be starting ground zero with the wineries he began to consider for his portfolio.
Most were tiny, family-run businesses with no infrastructure for exporting, so they were eager to speak with him. Ultimately, he settled on a group of 15 that checked all the right boxes — from diverse producers, many of them relying heavily on indigenous grapes that grow no place else such as obaideh, merwah, meksassi, and sobbagiegh — then, fingers crossed, submitted samples to the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo International Wine Competition last fall.
He wouldn’t be disappointed. Some 21 of them earned medals with four claiming golds and a fifth, which garnered a silver, being saluted as a Reserve Class Champion. If you’re attending the Rodeo Uncorked! Best Bites event Sunday night, do make a beeline to Jaoude’s table and give them a taste. I have and you will not be disappointed.
I’ve got a comprehensive story coming for the Chronicle as soon as the wines arrive in bulk in Houston and find some kind of retail outlet, so watch this space. It will appear here as well.
“The Trio”
Phelicia Colvin, Sheri Lawal Price and Tamesha Hampton, friends from Pearland who all have good day jobs and kids to raise, thought they needed another plate in the air. So they launched Wine Vibes (https://winevibes.revelup.online), a micro-winery in Missouri City where they make their own non-vintage wines from purchased grape juice from California, North Carolina and even Tennessee while serving chef Phillip Hare’s excellent munchies in a casual, airy bistro with a fine little patio out front.
For the moment, they’ve got a still moscato, a chardonnay, a cabernet and what they call — for obvious reasons — The Trio, an equal parts blend of syrah, petite sirah and zinfandel. It was my favorite, but all the wines are quite quaffable. Two more are coming, a reisling and a rosé, just in time for spring. They’ve also got a sangria they’re quite proud of, but it wasn’t available for sampling the night I visited.
The idea began to germinate for Colvin 14 years ago when she visited Napa Valley to attend a wedding and became intrigued by the whole winemaking thing. Many conversations with her eventual partners later and lots of heavy lifting, made way harder by the pandemic, Wine Vibes opened on Feb. 7 at 9018 Sienna Crossing Dr, Suite 100. They had wanted the business to be located in Pearland for convenience’s sake, but Brazoria County, oddly, doesn’t allow micro-wineries. Its loss, Fort Bend County’s gain.
Steve Matthiasson
Matthiasson, who wanted to be a farmer as far back as he can remember, took his first vineyard job in 1994. By 1999, he had co-authored the California manual on sustainable vineyard practices. He arguably knows as much as the myriad terroirs and micro-climates in Napa Valley as anyone alive or dead. We got to sample six very different Matthiasson cabs at a seminar he led for the Houston Sommelier Association last week at the Texas Wine School and it was eye- or, better, palate-opening.
Best of all, this so-called “new wave” winemaker, whose business attire is a T-shirt and blue jeans, is actually an old-school devotee in his “pursuit of balance” approach, which keeps the alcohol levels in his wines routinely below 13 percent.
He and his wife, Jill, will celebrate their 20th harvest in 2023. Today, they have their own winery and own three vineyards outright, one of which in West Oak Knoll features, besides cab franc, merlot and petit verdot, the way lesser known — in California anyway — ribolla gialla, tocai friulano and schioppettino varietals that are each well-suited for the alluvium soils around the nearby Dry Creek. In all, the Matthiassons farm some 55 acres, all of which are certified organic.
How much does soil type matter. A lot, he said. Grapes grown in volcanic dirt, for example, tend to deliver the most satisfying tannins.
BUBBLES
2019 MacRostie Sparkling Brut
From the winemaker: “Expressive aromas of white flowers such as jasmine, as well as bright lemon citrus notes that are both lively and inviting. On the full, impeccably balanced palate, the wine’s crisp acidity melds elegantly with the mouth-filling, slow-forming bubbles.”
From me: If you’re intrigued by this delightful sparkler, which was made in the classic champagne style, you better pounce now. It’s listed on the MacRostie website as a “last call.”
$48 at macrostiewinery.com
PINK
2022 Sophie Marie Rose
From the winemaker: “Flavors of freshly picked cranberries, rose petals, and ripe raspberries. This wine has structure, a bright acidity, and light floral notes. It shows shows elegance, youthful sass and the beginnings of boldness and maturity.”
From me: Named for the Messina Hof founders first grandchild, it’s the first Sophia Marie made from sangiovese. Hopefully, it won’t be the last.
$19 at http://messinahoforderport.net
RED
2018 Newton The Puzzle Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “Deep ruby color with a purple hue. Notes of black fruit, bay leaf and sage mingle with iodine and oyster shell characteristics, creating an extremely complex and pleasant bouquet. Wonderful now, but can age for another two decades.”
From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 95: “Dried violets, potpourri, pine, blackcurrants and cloves on the nose. Ash, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, silky tannins. Layers of juicy blue and purple fruit and flowers. So sleek and refined. Builds on the palate. From organically grown fruit.”
From me: It’s a beautiful cab-centric Bordeaux-style blend with all five grapes playing nicely in the mix. But the percentages vary slightly from year to year, which presumably explains the “puzzle” thing. Suckling suggested holding it until 2024 and I would except, sadly, I don’t have another bottle.
$135 at http://newtonvineyard.com
H-town happenings
Updated Feb. 23
Fantinel Wine Dinner — 7 p.m. Thursday, February 23 at Roma. 713 664-7581. $89 plus tax and gratuity http://romahouston.com
Bordeaux Undiscovered — 6-8 p.m. Monday, February 27, at Studio 3. http://eventbrite.com
A Night in Friuli — 4-Course Wine Dinner with Volpe Pasini & Schiopetto
6:30 p.m. Monday, Feb. 27, at Sofia. $150 713 804-0429. http://www.tratoriasofia.com
A Night In Piemonte with Pelissero Vineyards — 4:30 p.m. Friday, March 3, at Sofia. $22. http://eventbrite.com
Boutique Wines From Spain tasting –– 4 p.m. Friday, March 10, at Memorial Wine Cellar. Free http://eventbrite.com
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. http://eventbrite.com
Dionysus Imports French wines tasting — 6:30 p.m. Thursday, March 23, at the Alliance Française Houston. 713 526-1121 $25.
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . the Astros
Spring is springing and baseball’s back!!!! They return to work in Florida as defending World Series champions, and none too soon with the Rockets and the Texans on the bottom of their respective sports’ heaps.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime extolls the virtues of being a blogger over being a mere “influencer.” One of his students at the Slow Food University in Bra, Italy, has launched a blog and Parzen couldn’t be prouder of her.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra reviews the new Greek-centric tasting menu at March, a restaurant clearly deserving of some love in the form of stars from the Michelin people.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger goes deep with C. L. Butaud’s Randy Hester about his unique and excellent new Blanc de Noir, a still 50-50 blend of grenache and mourvèdre from West Texas fruit. I can vouch for it, having tasted the wine with Kane.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff weighs in on one of his favorite online wine sites, Last Bottle, which has been sued by Beckstoffer Vineyards for, among other things, breach of contract, false advertising, and trademark infringement. Oh dear.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com):
Kat’s latest post features six wines she recommended for Valentine’s, but that’s perfectly OK. They’re still good, right?
-
This post has nothing to do with wine, but those of you who still follow the Texans may find it interesting. I first interviewed DeMeco Ryans on his 23rd birthday, which coincided with his first Texans training-camp practice in 2006. I’ve rarely been more impressed with a rookie than I was with the well-spoken Ryans, who, 17 years later, has returned as the Texans’ head coach . . . still trying to get them to the Super Bowl.
The prospect of having an undersized rookie start for them at middle linebacker this season should make the Texans cringe.
Except for one thing. Last year an undersized rookie started at middle linebacker for the Seattle Seahawks, who weren’t seen cringing until they had lost the Super Bowl.
No, Lofa Tatupu couldn’t beat the Pittsburgh Steelers by his lonesome. That would have been a bit much to ask. But, fresh from the playing fields of Troy, the USC product definitely had a good enough season on Seattle’s behalf for everyone in Houston to keep an open mind about DeMeco Ryans, a Tatupu type who lined up in the middle for the Texans’ defense Monday morning.
“Ideally, it’s nice to have a veteran in that position,” concedes defensive coordinator Richard Smith, who is quick to remind that Ryans isn’t yet permanently ensconced as the MLB. “But if the cards are dealt another way, that’s all right, too. Right now the position is competitive. We moved him to the ‘Mike’ today. You never know what might happen tomorrow. Everybody’s trying to earn a position.
“We’re really pleased with what we saw in the mini-camps and off-season work. DeMeco is very knowledgeable and was obviously well-coached in college. (The job) isn’t too big for him. We think his movement skills are perfect for the position. He’s smart. He’ll handle it. He upgrades the athletic ability at the position.”
Defying conventional wisdom, the Seahawks had reached the same conclusions last summer about Mosi Tatupu’s son and look how nicely things panned out for them. The conference title was the first for the franchise in its 30 seasons.
Like Tatupu, Ryans comes from a college football colossus, Alabama. He knows what big games in front of big crowds are all about, so he’s psychologically prepared for the aura of the NFL, as was the former Trojan. Also, Ryans and Tatupu weigh about the same, close to 240 pounds. And, although Ryans lost points with the pickiest draft analysts because he’s “short” for an NFL linebacker, he’s 6-1, which makes him an inch or two taller than Tatupu.
The Texans love his intelligence and athleticism. They have concluded there’s only one real question to answer about the man they made the first pick of the second round of the draft: Can he handle calling the defensive signals and still play instinctively? Smith will spend the preseason ferreting out the answer.
“As with anything,” the coach said, “he’s going to learn with experience and game-time situations. If he can, it’s a bright spot for the organization.”
Ryans intelligence isn’t at issue. He made the SEC’s Academic All-Conference team in each of his last two seasons at Alabama. Head coach Gary Kubiak calls him “studious” in the classroom and “accountable” on the field.
“The kid loves to play,” he said. ” If you could see him in a meeting room and the way he goes about his business for Joe (Marciano) and our team, he’s like a seven or eight year veteran already. He’s a great kid, and we knew that. His character is tops, and is football is pretty good, too.”
Ryans, for his part, doesn’t appear to be overly stressed by the responsibility he may be asked to bear.
“It’s a little harder,” he said. “In college everybody turned to the sideline and got the signals. Here, one person gets them and relays to the defense. I did it in high school. For me, it’s like going back to high school a little bit.
“You’ve got to have your mental part cleaned up so you can go out and be confident with what you’re doing. If you’re having to think too much you can’t get the job done.”
All things being equal, Ryans admits he prefers being the MLB to playing on the flanks, but he’ll go where he’s put. After his NFL career officially began on his 23rd birthday – with the opening of his first training camp Friday – he seems excited just to walk onto the field every morning, the heat and the drudgery be hanged.
“I think it was hotter in Alabama,” he said, flashing a smile you’ll see often when he speaks. “I’m just glad I have the opportunity to come out here and compete for a starting job. I’m trying to get better, to hone my skills. I like the middle, but it doesn’t matter. I feel blessed to have the opportunity. A lot of people wish they could be in your shoes. Honestly, I don’t think I could have ended up in a better place.”
Ryans grew up near Tuscaloosa, breathing in the Alabama football tradition from the day he was old enough to know what a football was. The Texans’ comparatively sterile environs couldn’t be more different. He’s taken by the newness of everything, not the least of which is Kubiak’s coaching staff.
So far, the NFL’s 32nd franchise has only known defeat in its four seasons. Ryans sees a role for himself in changing that.
“I’m in a place where I have a chance to prove something,” he said. “Other teams have had the great players who paved the way. Now I’ve got a chance to be one of those for this organization. Here we’re a new team with new coaches that’s up and coming. I like that. It’s a way to establish our own tradition and get things going in the right way. It’s time to put the bad seasons behind us.”
Coincidentally or not, the Seahawks put their bad seasons – close to three decades worth – behind them with the arrival of Tatupu, who was also a second-round draft pick, taken 45th overall to Ryan’s 33rd. Informed of the many parallels between the two of them, Ryans replied: “You know, I hadn’t thought about that. But I’d like to go to the Super Bowl, too.”
While might be getting a little ahead of himself there, the Texans have to appreciate his way of thinking.
And they still do. OK, back to wine with my next blog. Gonna be talking about stuff I’ve tasted, fun folks I’ve met and a very cool French tasting event coming up Thursday, March 23, at the Alliance Française Houston in Montrose.
-
It’s time to start shopping for your sweetheart. You know it is, so don’t tarry any longer. And I’m here to help. The following wines checked all the boxes for me, although, being a cheapskate, several are on the expensive side, at least for my pensioner’s pocketbook. But, then again, how do we put a price on love?
Since I’ve got a bunch of wines for you today — bubbles plus a white, an orange and several reds, pictured above — time constraints prevent me from going into deep, super-geeky deal detail here about any one of them — I’m a very busy guy, OK? — but in most cases additional info can easily be found by clicking the listed links.
BUBBLES
Adami Bosco di Gica Prosecco Superiore
From the winemaker: “A straw yellow color. Creamy mousse and delicate, long-lasting bead. On the nose, it is rich, with excellent fruit, releasing scents of yellow apple and peach, with notes of wisteria and acacia blossom. Wonderful balance and elegance complement a pleasurably crispness. The palate holds delicious vein of acidity, displaying a crisp, savory mouthfeel. Generous, lingering flavors nicely mirror the nose and achieve perfect balance.”
From Vinous, which awarded a score of 91+: “Luminous straw-green in color. Honey, white flowers, crushed rocks and lemon oil all come alive in this nicely chiseled, creamy yet vibrant Prosecco. Showcases gorgeous balance and plenty of early appeal, but also offers plenty of richness and depth. This serious, luscious Prosecco, made from roughly 96 percent glera and four percent chardonnay, is my early candidate for Brut Prosecco of the year. The name of the wine derives from a very old forest located near the estate.”
From me: This refined and layered non-vintage sparkler is from the heart of Prosecco country, the DOCG of Valdobbiadene. You’d be hard-pressed to find better bubbles at this price point.
$22.99 at http://wine.com
2018 Argyle Vintage Brut Willamette Valley
From the winemaker: “A warm and dry summer lead to a concentrated, yet vibrant 2018 sparkling wine vintage in the Willamette Valley. Knudsen Vineyard, protected in the deep volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills, brings supple depth and elegance, while Spirit Hill Vineyard, in the windy and rocky volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills, brings energy and minerality. Orchard fruits, citrus peel, and toasted brioche are framed around a creamy center and long, graceful finish.”
From the Wine Spectator, which awarded a score of 93: “Delicate and refreshing, with layered strawberry, blood orange and spicy yeast accents that gather richness and polish on the finish.”
From me: I’ve been a fan of Argyle since I first tasted with its longtime winemaker, Texas Aggie Roland Soles. Soles has long since moved on to his venture, but I’ve seen not a bit of drop-off in quality in the wines, this bubbles blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier included. A delightful, romantic sparkler.
$30 at http://shopargylewinery.com
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé
From the winemaker: “A blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir vinified as red wine. Radiant color with graceful effervescence, a persistent mousse, and fine bubbles rising slowly in the glass. Subtle and fine aromas leading to an expressive red berry flavor with citrus zest. Creamy and smooth on the palate, evolving to strawberries notes and a raspberry finish. Light, balanced and precise.”
From Jeb Dunnuck, who awarded a score of 94: “The palate is rounded, with fruit up front and through the mid-palate, and it has a silky and fresh lift. There is a wonderful ease and drinkability to this wine, which delivers balance and finesse. Best after 2022.”
From me: I rang in the New Year with the 2008 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis Blanc de Blancs 2008 and I will be toasting my bride of soon-to-be-49 years on February 14 with this gem. Pink champagne doesn’t get any better, at any price point, in my opinion . . . which must count for something because you’re reading this, right? Cheers!
$94.97 at http://wine.com
Schild Estate Sparkling Shiraz Barossa Valley
From the winemaker: “The nose shows a fragrant and fruit-forward with notes of blackcurrant, mulberry, and dark cherry aromas alongside more delicate hints of chocolate, spice, and roasted coffee bean all adding a supporting richness and interest. Complex dark berry fruits and rich chocolate on the palate work in harmony with a round creamy texture and soft supporting tannin profile. Refreshing mid palate acidity provides the important framework which cuts through the balanced sweetness and leads into a long and clean savory finish.”
From Wilfred Wong of wine.com, who gave a 92: “Exhibits aromas and flavors of raspberries, grape notes, dried leaves and spices. Enjoy it with barbeque baby back ribs in a slightly tart/sweet sauce.”
From me: It’s flat-out deee-licious!
$23.99 at http://wine.com
WHITE
2020 Macrostie Nightwing Vineyards Chardonnay Petaluma Gap
From the winemaker: “This is the inaugural vintage from Nightwing Vineyard, named after the indigenous nocturnal birds that keep a watchful eye on the land. This bright and alluring Chardonnay showcases aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and zesty lime. On the palate, it is rich and round, with lovely underlying power and luxurious flavors of ripe mango, citrus, and a touch of French oak.”
From the Wine Enthusiast: which awarded 94 points: “Very ripe, almost sweet pear and peach flavors are bolstered by good fruit acidity in this well-balanced wine. Complex accents of toasted almond and butter are layered into the delicious fruits.”
From me: What they said. No gilding the lily needed.
$48 at http://macrostiewinery.com
ORANGE
2020 Gerard Bertrand Orange Gold
From the winemaker: “The nose is complex, with an explosion of notes of white flowers, candied fruit and white pepper. On the palate, a very flattering aromatic freshness, with precise flavors and a beautiful balance to which the structure gives body and spirit. Sweet and fine, its texture envelops the palate. The tasting ends with a nice length in the mouth that prolongs the gustatory journey and sweet bitter touch that stimulates the taste buds.”
From the Wine Enthusiast, which awarded a score of 90: “Kumquat, donut peach and Valencia orange meet marigold on the intriguing nose of this wine. The juicy palate is loaded with Valencia orange, peach and Granny Smith apple. This wine is dry and lightly tannic on the long finish but thoroughly enjoyable.”
From me: Six white varietals go into this sexy, out-of-the-box blend from the best producer in France’s Languedoc, who inevitably had to try his hand making orange wine. In short, Bertrand succeeded.
Sale price of $19.99 at http://wine.com
REDS
2019 Epicuro Aglianico Puglia
From the winemaker: “Shows intense blackberry and cherry notes harmoniously exalted by a light spicy background. Smooth and velvety with a firm backbone. Perfect with red meat, ham, and mature cheeses.”
From the Reverse Wine Snob: “Begins with a pleasing aroma of cherry, licorice, a little spice and a bit of apple. Taking a sip reveals lots of dark berry fruit and spice in this well put together wine . . . . Smooth and easy to drink some nice spice notes lead into the dry, medium-long finish.”
From me: Given the price of bottles and shipping costs in our COVID-challenged times, I have no earthly idea how a wine this good can possibly be sold for such a low price. But bless the D’Aquino Italian Importing Company and Trader Joe’s for their partnership.
$5.99 on the shelf at Trader Joe’s
2011 Kelly Fleming Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific effort in a very challenging year. Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. The 2011 stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.
From the Wine Advocate, which awarded a score of 92: “A terrific effort in a very challenging year. Winemaker Celia Welch gave the fruit a little more time on the skins and lowered the percentage of new barrels, an approach that worked nicely here. It stands out for its energy, focus and balance. It will be interesting to see where the wine goes over the coming year, but there is plenty of potential.”
From me: The Advocate went on to say it should be fully mature by 2024. I’d say it’s at its prime right now. This is the best cab I’ve tasted recently and I’ve tasted some very, very good ones, another one of which follows.
$200 at http://kellyflemingwines.com
2019 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena
From the winemaker: “Carol’s Vineyard, named for Jerry Lohr’s late wife Carol, lies in northern St. Helena along the Napa River and is comprised of 27 acres of cabernet sauvignon and 4.3 acres of petit verdot. The well-drained, gravelly, sandy loam soils and Bordeaux-like climate of the Napa Valley are ideally suited to producing richly textured, luxury-quality fruit.
From Wine & Spirits Magazine, which awarded a score of 93: “A lean and spicy 2019. Lasting scents of fruity mushrooms and black plum skin give the wine dimension, while the tannins feel polished and powerful in their warm earth tones. The ripeness is spot on, sustaining a dynamic energy in the flavors.”
From me: W&S thinks it’s going to need 10 years to fully share its charms and those folks may be right. But it’s drinking very, very nicely now and who knows if I’ve got 10 years left to be patient. Carpe diem!
$59.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder Merlot Napa Valley
From the winemaker: “Grown on the eastern-facing slopes of Mt. Veeder, this merlot hits all the right notes. Lush and rich, but vivaciously youthful, it’s a graceful enigma. Notes of dark cherries, cedar, toasted oak and a long finish highlight this beauty.”
From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 95 (as did Jeb Dunnuck): “Aromas of spices, such as cloves, dark berries and some herbs. Full-bodied and layered with chewy tannins and a savory finish. Juicy and flavorful.”
From me: Chris Carpenter, a Napa legend, aged the wine for 22 months in mostly new oak, but it’s hardly an oak bomb. The titans of Bordeaux’s Right Bank would be proud to call this 100-percent merlot their own, too.
$94.99 at http://wine.com
H-town happenings
Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. http://eventbrite.com
Cypress Sips Wine Brunch: Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. http://eventbright.com
Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. http://eventbright.com
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. http://eventbrite.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . DeMeco Ryans
I care about the Texans again because of this hire. Ryans, whom I met on his first day of training camp as a rookie in 2006, is a smart guy and a class act through and through, cut from the same cloth as his coach back then, Gary Kubiak. After a long drought, the Texans have finally made a decision that’s beyond reproach.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner in crime has a cool new client in the Piemonte’s Nizza neighborhood, and it’s barbera-centric. He tells you all about it.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
An example of great minds thinking alike here . . . Sandra shares the piece she wrote for Galveston Monthly about what to swirl and sip with your sweetie on Valentine’s Day.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger hones in on Spicewood Vineyards’ “The Independence” in another in his series on wines with special back stories.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
And yet another example of great minds thinking alike. Jeff nixes the notion that wine can safely be paired with chocolate, and I could not agree more. Don’t. Do. It. Bad for the wine and it doesn’t help the chocolate. One defensible exception: Banyuls with very dark chocolate.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com):
Kat takes a look at everything going on with the Texas wine scene in the month of February.
-
It’s cleaning-out-the-email-inbox day today. There’s a lot happening that you need to be aware of.
But, first, watch this space for news of at least one wine tasting to be hosted by the Alliance Française Houston (http://alliancehouston.org) in March. Having been recently chosen – sentenced? – president of the Alliance’s board of directors, it’s my sworn duty to get wine front and center again. Through his popular monthly tastings, the late Bear Dalton put our 100-year-old house at 427 Lovett Blvd. in the heart of Montrose at the epicenter of the local swirling and sipping scene, and I’m determined to honor his legacy by getting some buzz back into the building, both literally and figuratively.
A certified wine legend in these parts, Bear can’t be replaced, but we must carry on without him, so we’re certain to host a tasting, probably in conjunction with Douglas Skopp and his Dionysus Imports wines (http://dionysusimports.com) because Doug is a board member, sometime in March. Why? Because March 20 is International Francophonie Day (Journée internationale de la Francophonie), a longstanding celebration of France’s language and culture. And wine, obviously, is a huge part of said culture.
Again, details forthcoming soon.
New sippin’ spots
I’m happy to report that west Houston has a very cool new wine bar called VinSanto (http://vinsantowine.com) – it opened recently in Memorial Green, where Vine Wine Bar used to be – and Fort Bend County will soon welcome Wine Vibes (http://winevibesmicrowinery.com), a “micro-winery”/bistro in Missouri City.
Riccardo Guerrieri is the certified sommelier running the show at VinSanto, with considerable help from his partner, Giorgio Caflisch, and sommelier Stephanie Kukutschka. Guerrieri is no stranger to the scene here, having established his bona fides during his tenure at Vinology, and he’s bringing the same fun but sophisticated vibe to VinSanto, a wine bar, bistro and retail shop all in the same attractive package. Riccardo’s list isn’t the same ‘ol same ‘ol. “Hidden gem, off-the-beaten path” wines from Italy, France and Spain are front and center.
But he’s got a lovely, naturally made pet nat from Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast that’s well worth trying.
Caflisch, in turn, is a certified Italian Wine Scholar who teaches at the Texas Wine School, while Kukutschka was previously at Houston Wine Merchant.
VinSanto’s Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight, and Sunday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Meanwhile, Wine Vibes, part of the new development Sienna Crossing, will offer a similar mix of wining, dining and retail shopping plus the opportunity to make wine and even create one’s own labels when its doors open Feb. 7.
Chef Phillip Hare, the creative force behind Houston’s Red Cat Jazz Café, will be the general manager. Wine Vibes vision? According to the email I received: “To educate guests through an immersive experience by breaking through barriers of color and gender by pairing wine with inclusivity, and introducing the industry in an approachable, fun, and vibrant way.” Well, OK.
I’ll get my first look at VinSanto this Wednesday and have plans to visit Wine Vibes in early February.
Gulf Coast wine? You bet!
The 31st annual Gulf Coast Winegrowers Watson Field Day, featuring viticulture and winemaking presentations, research-related wine tastings, commercial exhibits and networking for both experienced and prospective grape growers and wine makers, takes place from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Feb. 3, at the Cat Spring Agriculture Society Hall in Cat Spring. It’s again presented in partnership with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension and Capital Farm Credit.
Our neck of the woods isn’t the easiest place to be a winegrower, but lots of folks have figured it out and will be sharing their hard-earned knowledge. Registration at the door opens at 7:30am and the price is $50 for GCWA members, $60 for non-members and $25 with Student ID. A lunch sponsored by Sensor Insight and a networking social are included. Non-members may join GCWA at registration. Visit the Gulf Coast Winegrowers Association on Facebook for additional information.
Wining in the Hill Country
Forty-plus wineries will be participating in a nearly month-long, free-form celebration of all things grape in Texas’ most scenic AVA. From January 30 to February 24, one can visit up to four wineries per day, receiving complimentary tastings and 15-percent discounts on purchases of up to three bottles for only $100 per couple or $65 per person.
The revenue from ticket sales go to the Texas Hill Country Wineries Association (http://texaswinetrail.com), which works to encourage the growth and development of the of the wine industry in its backyard, and also to the Texas Hill Country Wineries scholarship program that supports local students pursuing careers in the wine industry.
Go to https://texaswinetrail.com/wine-lovers-celebration for all the details, including a list of the participating venues.
H-town happenings
Aperitive Italiano — Amore Italian Style: 7-8 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at The Italian Cultural and Community Center (iccchouston.com). Eventbrite.com.
Il Poggione Dinner with winemaker/export manager Alessandro Bindocci: 7 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31. 713 664-7581 or romahouston.com
End of Dry January Blind Wine Tasting: 6 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 31, at We Olive & Wine Bar (weolive.com). sercawines.com. $35. Eventbrite.com
Cruise through Chianti with Jeremy Parzen: 7 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 2: Vinology. $65. http://vinologyhouston.com
Empanada and Wine Night: 6:30 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 4, at SERCA Wines. $40. Eventbrite.com
Cypress Sips Wine Brunch: Noon Saturday, Feb. 11, at The Station Seafood Company (ilovethestation.com). $75. Eventbrite.com
Informal wine dinner featuring Texas wines and barbeque: 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 16, at Atkins House $85. Eventbrite.com
Bay Area Wine Fest: 4 p.m. Saturday, March 18, at Morgan Falls Event Center, Alvin. Eventbrite.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza, in conjunction with the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
Sippin’ with Sporty
2019 William Chris Vineyards Fovel Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Texas Hill Country
The back label promises “Real. Texas. Wine.” But it’s missing the word “good” between “Real” and “Texas.” This is a superb effort from the boys in Hye, one of the best cabernets from anywhere that I’ve tasted in a long while. The Fovel Vineyard is located a couple miles northeast of Fredericksburg. $60 at http://shopwilliamwineschris.com (I might add that the 2020 William Chris Enchante, a Bordeaux-style blend, is also well-worth trying, too.)
2019 Colene Clemens Vineyards Margo Pinot Noir
Winemaker Stephen Goff, who has been with the winery since its founding in 2008 by Joe and Vickie Stark, uses only estate fruit grown in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains AVA. It’s a very Burgundian pinot noir, which should be taken as a compliment. The Wine Spectator awarded a score of 94. A wonderful new find for me! Colene, fyi, is Vicki’s mother and Margo is is Colene’s greaet granddaughter. $42 at http://coleneclemens.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Feigen
I don’t know how my longtime former Chronicle sports department colleague keeps his sanity covering the current-generation Rockets. I really don’t. The NBA beat is the hardest of them all even when a season is going swimmingly, and the baby Rockets are, of course, drowning. But Jonathan, who’s not that much younger than I am and I’m already four years retired, still brings passion and intelligence to his every story, most of which offer at least a tiny measure of optimism. Bravo and bon courage, my friend!
Pouring one out for . . . Stephen Silas
At this stage of his career, which may not last much longer, he’s the losing-est coach in NBA history. Talk about being in the wrong place at the wrong time. And, worse, he’s had to also process his father Paul’s death during this most dreadful of Rockets season (again). I don’t know the young man, but he seems to be a smart, decent fellow who took the wrong job at the wrong time.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)
My podcast partner is crime will be going deep into Chianti, covering every angle of what’s Italy’s most evocative — and misunderstood — wine. Parzen will host a seminar Thursday evening, Feb. 2, with six wines, including a vin santo, to be tasted and explored in detail. Go to his web site to register.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)
Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)
The Texas Wineslinger touts the aforementioned Watson Field Day and suggests we try the Duchman Salt Lick Vineyard the next time you have a pizza. Speaking of which, Russ is has become a master pizza maker using his new Ooni, the creme de la creme of home-use pizza ovens. Note that he’s also teaching his Specialist of Texas Wine Level 1 at AOC in February. You can register at his site.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)
Jeff reports on the best random samples he has received recently from wineries and their marketing teams. Yep, dirty thankless work . . .
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com):
Kat gives us the skinny on the wonderfully varied wines of Sicily through the Donnafugata lineup and throws in a bit of a travelogue, too.
-
Back in the day, most Bordeaux wines weren’t all that expensive, which was a good thing because I loved the wines of Bordeaux and I wasn’t making all that much money. But, in 1985, a bottle of 1982 Margaux, a First Growth 100-point Robert Parker tout, could be had at Spec’s for $60. I was still paying under $40 for lesser Classed Growth futures through the memorable 2000 vintage.
Once Bordeaux prices went crazy, though, I wandered off to other regions, such as the Southern Rhone Valley, looking for better value. I probably didn’t buy 10 bottles of Bordeaux over the first two decades of the 21st century. I wasn’t alone, either. Arguably, no region had become more passé because, by and large, quality hadn’t kept up with the exponentially rising costs.
However, a Frenchman turned Houstonian has made it his mission to change that. Jean-François Bonneté, who moved here in 2011 and, with his wife Natalie, eventually launched an import business called BCI, then became vintners themselves. Their lineup of Liberation of Paris wines — the name pays tribute to a memorable chapter in his family’s history, which we’ll get to in a moment — has been available in Houston for several years and offers excellent value, with prices ranging from just under $12 to just over $20. But Bonneté has recently gone a step further in the bargain department with a new pink, a red and a white that carry the family name on the label and sell for $9.95, cash price, at Spec’s.
Impossible, you say? Nope. And, yep, they’re damned satisfying. The full-flavored non-vintage designated red, made from biodynamically-farmed cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in and around the Bordeaux AOC (that’s why it’s a Vin de France) has in fact become a go-to pour at Chez Robertson, pairing splendidly as it does with red sauce pasta dishes, pizza, burgers and cheese/charcuterie platters. It’s not a wine that requires a lot of deep thinking or geeky analysis. It may or may not age all that well, but who cares? I’m not planning to lay any down.
As for the Liberation of Paris story, the label became Bonneté’s way of paying tribute to an American GI who had befriended his father as a young boy not long after the D-Day landing, giving him comfort — and some chewing gum — on the side of the road as the soldier and his fellow troops were making their way to Paris. Joel Bonneté, now in his 80s, has loved the U.S. since that chance encounter and had always encouraged Jean-François to embrace this country. He has, and Houston’s budget-conscious wine-lovers are the better for it. You’ll find the Bonneté wines in some 40 Spec’s stores today.
Spoke too soon
In my last missive in this space, I reported that the South of France wine tour I’m co-leading with Pablo Valqui in late May/early June was sold out. Well, it’s not. We still have two spots left, it seems. Go to http://gourmettours.biz for all the details tasting our way through Provence, the Southern Rhone Valley and the Languedoc . We’re going to have a spectacularly good time, I promise!
Sippin’ with Sporty
2020 Rizzi Dolcetto d’Alba
This is one of the best dolcettos I’ve come across in a good while, and it’s widely available at Spec’s stores around town. Rizzi’s estate fruit grows in Treiso near Barbaresco, an area well-suited for the varietal despite nebbiolo’s being the big dog in the neighborhood. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures for eight days with malolactic fermentation following for a month, then aging in tanks for six months. A ruby-purple in color, it’s both floral and spicy with surprising nuance. $23.99 at Spec’s
Kings of Prohibition Shiraz
This bold and tasty non-vintage Australian shiraz has much in common with the Bonneté cab, offering satisfaction way above its price point and pairing with all the same comfort foods, from burgers to pizza to spicy pastas. It’s to be enjoyed, not analyzed. $12.99 at http://wine.com
2019 Goldeneye Ten Degrees Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Goldeneye in Anderson Valley in 1996, thinking they’d secured some of the best pinot noir terroir in the world. They were right. The Ten Degrees is a blend from the very best lots of the Confluence, Gowan Creek and The Narrows Vineyards. Following a nearly perfect growing season and harvest, fermentation took place using a mixture of whole cluster destemmed fruit with both native and inoculated ferments, all punched down twice daily in small three-ton open top tanks for an average of 14 days. Aging in French oak lasted 16 months. $130 at http://goldeneyewinery.com
Pop-Up Wine Night with Serca Wines: 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 12. http://sercawines.com $35. http://eventbright.com
JMP Wine Night Featuring Orin Swift Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 19. JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://jmpwines.com $70. http://eventbrite.com
Champion Wine Garden Presented by Frost Bank at NRG Carruth Plaza: Seminar reservations. $55. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . Damar Hamilin
And here’s hoping he’ll play football again. Should he? That’s another question. But we learned from his frightening on-field cardiac arrest what a fine young man Damar is, and he deserves the chance to resume chasing his dreams. I’ll be pulling hard for the Bills to win the Super Bowl for him. That would be a very cool story.
Pouring one out for . . . Lovie Smith
Look, Lovie did a lousy job of coaching this season, even if he’s not a lousy coach. He should have gotten fired. Hell, he should have wanted to get fired. But Smith’s departure won’t fix anything that’s wrong with the terminally screwed-up Texans, arguably top to bottom North America’s worst sports franchise.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): On Martin Luther King day, Jan. 23, my podcast partner in crime and his wife Tracie will be participating in a protest against the “Neo-Confederate” Memorial in Orange, where Tracie grew up and much of her family still lives. He writes: “We will be there from 1-3 p.m. Please join us to show solidarity for the Black community.” If you have questions, contact him at jparzen@gmail.com Nothing else to say but . . . Bravo, Parzens!
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): The Texas Wineslinger reviews his most popular blogs of 2022.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff writes about the best wines he has tasted of late that weren’t sent to him as free samples. Which is to say, by and large he actually PAID for them. Novel concept . . . (smiley face emoji here).
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat weighs in on five wine trends she’s looking forward to in 2023.
-
New Year’s Eve has never been a particularly important holiday for me because I spent far too many of them on the road, alone in a Marriott hotel room somewhere, waiting for the next-day’s “big” game. But those days are long over, so I suppose it’s time to re-assess, especially since I’m four months into my seventh decade on this troubled orb of ours. I can say this for certain: Never have I more gratefully metaphorically turned a page than I did Saturday night.
Happy New Year!
Last January 1, I awoke to the news that I was negative for COVID-19, terrific news because I was 72 hours from undergoing a much-needed hip replacement. But, by nightfall, I had received another test result — from the hospital where the surgery would take place — informing me that, nope, I was positive and my operation would have to be pushed back a month. A gut punch, to say the least, given the pain I was in. It’s a good thing I’ve always been allergic to firearms.
What helped hugely, though was the arrival of a new four-legged child on Jan. 6. Little Coco, an exuberant six-month-old Pomeranian puppy, provided great comfort during that difficult patch. Ultimately the surgery would take place on January 20 and it couldn’t have gone more swimmingly, thanks to the skills of Dr. Ken Mathis, a rock star in his own right. After four days, I’d ditched the walker and within three weeks I was back on the bike, pain-free and pedaling like a crazy person. Debbie and I headed off to France on schedule, then spent an absolutely splendid spring there, enjoying our gorgeous little off-the-beaten-path Alpine valley with friends, new and old. Our best trip ever, we declared it.
It was certainly Coco’s, who proved to be a perfect traveler in her maiden voyage as a frequent flyer.
But returning to Houston in sweltering mid-June brought new adventures — and sweeping changes. A wee-hours trip on the staircase leading from our bedroom down to the kitchen could have been catastrophic had I landed on the new right hip, but instead I only made my already messed-up left knee exponentially worse. A series of PRP injections (that’s platelet-rich-plasma, fyi) got me mobile again, but a loud message had been clearly delivered. I was done with stairs. And Debbie was done with bagging fallen magnolia leaves in 100-plus-degree heat.
Our Montrose home, hard by Buffalo Bayou Park and special in every way imaginable, went on the market. It sold quickly — for well above the asking price — and we became renters for the first time in 47 years. But whereas our original apartment on Hermann Drive, long since torn down, had maybe 500 square feet and cost $135 a month, our new one is 18 floors above Kirby Drive with a panorama that includes downtown, the Medical Center and Greenway Plaza. Whole Foods is across the street. Yes, it’s priced accordingly.
Because Debbie and met living in Moody Towers, brand new in the fall of 1970 on the University of Houston campus, we weren’t strangers to high-rise living, so this move feels like closing a circle. Also, I now wake up to a view of the Astrodome, which is what brought me to H-town in the first place.
We took possession of the apartment and began moving stuff in on Sept. 25, with Debbie leaving for France the next day. That evening, after dining with a friend, we headed back to the house in separate cars. Debbie’s made it. Mine didn’t. At the intersection of Allen Parkway and Montrose, two blocks from home, a young man ran a red light at 30 m.p.h. and nearly T-boned me. Had he, I would likely have been killed. A Z4 is no match for an Expedition. Fortuitously, only the Beemer, barely 11 months old, was beyond repair. I escaped with my hip intact — again — and nothing worse than a minor blackeye caused by the airbag.
Still shaken, I got Debbie to the airport the next day in her car . . . then promptly ran out of gas on the way home. Nonetheless, the rest of the move went smoothly and I followed her to the Alps a week later. We had another fabulous stay and even 40 hours spent trapped in travel hell on the return didn’t dim our enthusiasm for our new high-in-the-sky life. Further, I had a cool new ride waiting for me when I got back. I can’t say enough good things about the folks at Liberty Mutual. They’re as fair as their commercials are funny.
Despite the delays, I arrived just in time to watch the Astros’ close out the Phillies in the World Series. A successful fundraiser I helped orchestrate for Houston’s Alliance Française followed in early December and, just a few days ago, the wine-tasting tour through the South of France I’m co-hosting with my new best friend, Pablo Valqui, sold out.
One final challenge was losing my “sportwineguy” domaine — long story, which began with us getting hit with some pretty serious credit card fraud — but I was able to lock up “thesportywineguy” as a replacement. So, by any measure, 2022 ended way better than it began.
Now here we are, starting fresh in 2023, optimistic that the next 12 months — and hopefully many more months after that — will be free of health issues and heartache. At our age I know that’s asking a lot, but fingers and toes are crossed because there are still many wines to sample, and plenty of topics to both blog and podcast about, the latter with my like-minded buddy Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com). I intend to keep the petal to the proverbial metal because, as my favorite philosopher, Charles Barkley, was always wont to say, “Life is short and death is long.”
My celebratory bottle of bubbles for ringing in the New Year? See below. To again quote Sir Charles, “Hey, somebody’s gotta be me.”
Cheers!
Sippin’ with Sporty
I know, this is supposed to be a wine blog. Sorry for the digression above. Here we go . . .
2021 J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay
Although the wine, made from chardonnay grown in Arroyo Seco, tastes classically Californian, it was made using traditional Burgundy methods such as malolactic fermentation and a weekly stirring of the lees, used, explains winemaker Kristen Barnhisel, “to complement the aromatics, while also adding a creamy palate texture and long finish.” Aging lasted in barrell, sur lie, for eight months, 24 percent new. $25 at http://jlohr.com
2021 Hampton Water Languedoc Rose
Wine.com’s Wilfred Wong calls this collaboration between the Languedoc’s Gerard Bertrand and rocker Jon Bon Jovie’s one, Jessie Bongiove “one of the world’s most consistent pink wines. (Dad got to know Bertrand performing at his summer jazz festival near the Narbonne shore.) It’s floral, fruity and minerally all at once and delicious year around. Wong scored the wine a 91. It earns 100 points for value, especially for the $17.99 sale price at Kroger right now.
2019 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
I finished the year with yet another reference-standard California cabernet, this blockbuster from the Chappellet family, which turned Napa Valley’s Pritchard Hill into one of the world’s most revered and renowned wine locales, certainly for cab-centric blends, since the winery’s founding in 1967. Five national critics scored the Chappellet’s flagship 93 or higher with offering more eloquent praise than James Suckling, who described it as being “voluptuously full bodied, with a lavish structure and supple tannins framing the ripe dark berry and blackcurrant flavors.” $289.95 at http://wineexpress.com
Pop-Up Wine Night: 6 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 12. Serca Wines. http://sercawines.com $35. http://eventbright.com
JMP Wine Night Featuring Orin Swift Wines: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 19. JMP Wines Tasting Room, Humble. http://jmpwines.com $70. http://eventbrite.com
The Sports Page
Raising a glass to . . . J. J. Watt
Like Earl Campbell, J. J. became a bit of a shooting star in our midst, delivering only a few great seasons before injuries took their toll. But so great were they that, like Earl, he’s a certain first-ballot Hall-of-Famer as one of only two men to be named Defensive Player of the Year three times. (Lawrence Taylor was the other.) Also, like the Tyler Rose, he never got that championship. No matter. He was a championship human being, and as beloved as any athlete who ever stepped between the lines on H-town’s behalf. Surely, Cal McNair will do the right thing and make sure J.J. retires as a Texan.
Pouring one out for . . . Péle
In the 20th century, there were two truly transcendent, force-of-nature athletes, Muhammad Ali and Edson Arantes do Nascimento. The globe was indeed their stage, sans hyperbole. My favorite Péle story: When he and his Santos team traveled to Nigeria in 1967, a 48-hour cease-fire in a savage civil war then raging in the country was declared in order to allow both sides to watch him play. He died Dec. 29 at the age of 82.
Follow me
Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy
Instagram: sportywineguy
Twitter: @sportywineguy
Facebook: Dale Robertson
Others to follow
Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com): My podcast partner in crime looks back on a most memorable year for his family, which celebrates its first Christmas in their new Westbury home.
Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com): Sandra suggests 10 pinot noirs you need to try now, sharing an inciteful piece she wrote for Galveston magazine.
Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com): Russ chooses his favorite Texas wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The 2019 Bending Branch Malbec ranked No. 1.
Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com): Jeff picks his 10 favorite sparkling wines of 2022. Spoiler alert: The Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brute was his bubbles bottle of the year.
Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com): Kat recounts her adventures in Healdsburg, her travel destination for this holiday season.
The Sporty Wine Guy
All things wine… but a little sports talk, too
