I know. I’ve been missing in action for a few weeks now. Between moving, nearly getting killed in a car wreck and traveling to France — all of which happened in the the same week — I don’t know which way is up, down or sideways. It was probably a poor idea to schedule everything at once . . . except, of course, the wreck wasn’t my idea. (Nor was it my fault.) The good news is I’m still alive and typing.

This top of this post, however, is a rerun of a story that appeared in the Houston Chronicle last week and it doesn’t have a damned thing to do with wine. But those of you who also follow the Houston sports scene and don’t take the Chronicle (Shame on you!) will find it interesting.

Anyway, I celebrated a milestone anniversary last week, which explains why I wrote what follows. But note that my regular wine content has been tacked on at the end.

On Friday, Oct 6, 1972, I became a for-real professional journalist, having been hired as a 20-year-old sports copy editor at the Houston Post. On the previous Sunday, my final weekend as a “civilian” sports fan, I had forked over for-real money – albeit probably about 12 bucks – to watch the Oilers take on the New York Jets, quarterbacked by Joe Namath, my sports hero a couple years earlier in high school.  

The Astrodome was maybe two-thirds full for the Oilers’ home opener. They hadn’t finished with a winning record in five seasons and were already 0-2 under the clueless Bill Peterson, giving up 64 points in road losses at Denver and Miami. Against the Dolphins, who were embarking upon their historic 17-0 season, they gained 167 total yards, 82 of which came on a single touchdown pass from second-year quarterback Dan Pastorini.

But somehow the Oilers beat Namath and the Jets 26-20, damn them. However, I took that as a good omen for the career path I’d chosen. Getting to work in a big-league sports city straight from the chute was the break of a lifetime.

Of course, at that juncture, Houston was “big-league” only in the sense that it had three teams playing in the big leagues. (A fourth, the Aeros, were starting their inaugural season in the upstart World Hockey Association.) That Oilers victory would be their last until Nov. 4, 1973 – 402 days later – and their last at home for nearly two years. In between, they would lose 23 of 24 games, including 13 in a row in the Dome. Not many were close, either.     

The Astros? They were coming off the best finish of their first 11 years, going 84-69 in a strike-shortened season, yet they still finished only third in the National League West. And it would be another eight long years before they took the field for the franchise’s first playoff game in 1980, against the Philadelphia Phillies, then nearly another quarter of a century before they finally won a postseason series.

The Rockets? In the fall of 1972, having only recently abandoned San Diego, they were preparing for their second season in Houston following a forgettable 34-48 slog that saw them frequently play in front of crowds of a couple thousand at Hofheinz Pavilion while wandering as far-afield as El Paso for “home” games. Elvin Hayes, the Big E himself, had returned, but few seemed to care all that much. Hayes, ironically, was long gone when they finally made the playoffs three seasons later.

Ultimately, I would cash paychecks from the Post, which died in 1995, and the Chronicle for 46-plus years before hanging up my press pass in early 2019. In that nearly five-decade span, I got to write about all of three championship teams, the pair claimed consecutively by the Rockets in 1994-95 and the Astros’ scandal-tainted 2017 World Series triumph.

In stark contrast, my sports-writing colleagues in Boston have covered 12 championship teams in the 21^st century alone. I’m not here to whine, though. Quite the contrary. Rather, my purpose is to provide context and perspective, to remind everyone that Houston’s sports scene today, certainly relative to the aforementioned wasteland, could be in far worse shape despite the Rockets’ failings and the Texans’ flailing of late.  

Yes, thank you, Astros. If Justin Verlander return whole, there’s no reason to think they can’t reach their fourth World Series in six years, a feat bettered by only the 1996-2001 Yankees during the last six decades. They’re also finishing their fourth 100-win season in the last six, a milestone accomplished but once in the franchise’s first 55 seasons.

As for the Rockets, with an exciting core of elite young talent, they figure to rebound quickly, if perhaps not immediately, after winning all of 37 games the past two seasons.

Which leaves us with the Texans. True, it’s hard to have much optimism regarding their short-term prospects. Still, they’re at worst a mediocre team, not an historically awful one like the Oilers of 1972 and 1973. Peterson, who went 1-18 before being mercifually shown the door, was arguably the most hapless, malaprop prone head coach ever to preside over one of Houston’s pro teams, making even Hugh Campbell (13 wins total from 1984 through 1986) seem to be Hall-of-Fame material.

I asked former Chronicle sports writer Hal Lundgren, the paper’s beat reporter during those hard-scrabble times, how long it took the Oilers players and the media to figure out what a dud coach Pete was.

“Oh,” Lundgren said, “a couple practices and a press conference.”

At the introductory team meeting in his first training camp, Coach Pete had told the Oilers: “Men, I want to you just thinking of one word all season. One word and one word only: ‘Super Bowl!’”

It went downhill from there.

A comically memorable moment in the midst of all the misery occurred on a Monday night in the Astrodome. Having gleaned neither inspiration nor confidence from their surprising victory over Namath’s Jets eight days earlier, the Oilers next got pummeled 34-0 by the Oakland Raiders. How bad was it? Dan Pastorini completed more passes to Raiders (four) than to Oilers (three) while finishing with a negative-1 passing yard. Kent Nix, sent out to save Pastorini from further embarrassment, completed one pass for no yards while throwing an obligatory pick of his own. 

Late in the debacle, the ABC cameras honed in on a fan slumped in his seat in an otherwise empty upper-deck section of the Dome. The guy responded with a middle-finger salute. Don Meredith, of course, had a quip ready.

“That’s just his way of saying,” Dandy Don explained, “that his team is No. 1.”

The 1972 season ended with a five-turnover 61-17 Dome loss to the Cincinnati Bengals. In their lone victory in 1973, 31-27 at Baltimore, the Oilers still found a way to commit six turnovers. In that season’s penultimate game, a 33-7 trouncing in Pittsburgh, they gave the ball away nine times.

Over 22 starts in 1972-73, 21 of them ending in defeat, Pastorini threw 12 touchdown passes and 29 interceptions. And, remember, he had been the third player taken overall in the 1971 draft. Davis Mills, who was only a third-round pick, may be 2-11-1 as a starter and not yet showing any signs of becoming a franchise quarterback, but his 19-to-12 touchdowns-to-picks ratio is a respectable statistic.

So is the Texans’ defensive standing. Only 12 teams have given up fewer points. By comparison, no teams gave up fewer points than the 1972-73 Oilers.

In short, these are hardly the worst of times in H-town. It’s also important to remember that, five seasons later, Pastorini was under center in consecutive AFC Championship games, a place no Oilers or Texans quarterback has found himself since. Our boundless patience eventually got rewarded back when. No reason to think history won’t repeat.

Keep the faith, folks.        

Cheers!

Sippin’ with Sporty

White

2020 Becker Texas Sauvignon Blanc — The 20-plus-year-old Becker Estate vines are in their prime, and their grapes get the royal treatment after harvest, spending time in both stainless steel and new French oak for nine months. The requisite flavors of tropical fruit, lime and apple are pronounced. It’s a remarkable value for $10.69 at http://heb.com

2019 Newsom Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio — A friend recently gifted me a case and it lasted maybe 10 days. This Texas High Plains gem is loaded with fruit and is way more full-bodied than most pinot grigios from elsewhere. You don’t see a lot of wine made from this Italian varietal in Texas, which may be smart. It would be damned hard to compete with the Newsoms. $22.95 at http://newsomvineyards.com

Red

2018 Duchman Family Montepulciano — Hey, it’s Texas Wine Month so I’m all in on our “local” producers. Duchman specializes in Italian varietals, making wines that never fail to please, and this is yet another example of winemaker Dave Reilly’s prowess working in tandem with the state’s formidable grape-growers, the Oswald family in this wine’s case. Reilly is proud of the wine’s “rich flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum” and says it “fills the senses “with aromas of dried flowers, dark fruit and a delicate peppery spice.” $35 at duchmanwinery.com

H-town happenings

Col di Lamo Wine Dinner — Thursday, Oct. 13, 7 p.m. at Roma http://romahouston.com. $119 http://eventbrite.com

Brenner’s on the Bayou Wine Fest — Saturday, Oct. 15. 2 p.m. at Brenner’s on the Bayou http://brennershouston.com. $150 and up. http://eventbrite.com

Champagne Seminar — Saturday, Oct. 22, noon at the Texas Wine School http://thetexaswineschool.com $100. http://eventbrite.com

Rosé All Day tasting — Saturday, Oct. 22, noon at Envy Wine Room in Spring http://envywineroom.com. $16. http://eventbrite.com

Houston Young Lawyers Foundation Uncorked Wine Tasting — Thursday, Nov. 3. 6 p.m. at Sonoma http://sonomahouston.com $55 and up. http://eventbrite.com

A Taste of Legends with wines from France’s greatest regions — Saturday, Nov. 5. at Morton’s The Steakhouse Downtown. http://mortons.com $179 http://eventbrite.com

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Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com) — My podcast partner in crime is on the road again, hosting tastings in New York Thursday and Dallas Oct. 27. In between, he’ll be back in Bra in Italy for a few days teaching at the Slow Food University. There’s going to be a lot to talk about the next time we get behind the mike and, yes, we will eventually post a new podcast.

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) — Sandra examines the 2022 Texas Harvest in a piece she wrote for Galveston Monthly. Speaking of busy, she celebrated the marriage of her daughter, Morgan (both were regulars on my Chronicle tasting panel) this past weekend and will soon be headed off on a big adventure in Spain.

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) — The Texas Wineslinger may have put his gorgeous property in the Hill Country up for sale, but you can bet he’ll still be a frequent visitor to Fredericksburg as long as the Cabernet Grill (http://cabernetgrill.com), with its spectacular all-Texas wine list, keeps its doors open. That’s his latest blog topic.

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com) — Also in a traveling mode, Jefff is pedaling through Bordeaux, which, it seems, has been as rainy as my Alpine neck of the woods. But we cyclists live to suffer, don’t we?

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com) — Kat hasn’t been quite as far a field of some of us, but she recently treated herself to a stay at the Carter Creek Winery Resort and Spa (http://cartercreek.com), also near Fredericksburg. Check out her report on same.

In case you missed it, the following ran in the Sept. 7 Flavor Section of the Houston Chronicle. 

Galveston natives have an acronym that’s all their own. It’s BOI, which, of course, means “born on Island.” Matthew Massey is a BOI – Galveston Ball class of 2002, too – and also a local boy who made good. How good? Massey, at the age of 39, is the first Texan, never mind Galvestonian, to launch a for-real French champagne brand of his own.

The wine is called Madame Zéro, but don’t be fooled by that seemingly negative number, which only approximates its next-to-nothing sugar content (less than .05 grams per five-ounce pour). This is a big-league bottle of bubbles at every level, a serious wine conceived of and nurtured by a serious young man, that also represents exceptional value. At $56.99 – that’s Spec’s cash price – Massey’s sparkling lady way over-delivers.

OK, you’re probably rolling your eyes right now. Don’t. The obsessively detailed-oriented Massey left nothing to chance with his seemingly pie-in-the-sky project, saying, “I’m very hands-on with everything we’re doing. I have a passion for champagne and, to get it right, you can’t just go hire someone to take care of things. To carry out a vision, you have to understand every part of the process.”

His timing could have been better, what the COVID-19 pandemic which created unforeseen headaches every step of the way. In normal times, all systems would have been go by the end of 2020. But there proved to be a hidden blessing in the pandemic: He got to age his cuvée for an extra year, holding off the release until December of 2021.  

“Not easy on cash flow,” he conceded. “Nothing about this project has been easy.  We’ve had a lot of things we’ve had to mitigate, but it’s made us a lot stronger for when we do end up having easier times ahead.”

Even the famous houses have confronted huge challenges with the supply chain, from the bottles to the cages to the labels. Imagine what it was like for an upstart outsider without an iota of street cred when he first touched down in Champagne. But Massey wouldn’t take “non” for an answer.

Most importantly, after considerable homework and legwork trying to understand the myriad nuances of many of the 319 champagne villages, he found the right team, a grape-grower and a winemaker, in one of his favorite towns, Vertus, in the Côtes des Blancs. Vertus offers outstanding terroir for chardonnay – his favorite varietal – delivering fruit that hits squarely in his personal sweet spot, neither heavy nor austere.

Straight from the chute, his inaugural extra-aged Blanc de Blancs earned a silver medal in the Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo’s Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition. Already, aside from Spec’s, the wine can be found at MAD Houston – his first on-premise account – Brasserie 19, DaMarco, Mastro’s, 1751 Sea and Land and Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. He’s hardly finished, either. A rosé is coming in the fall and a vintage wine will follow sometime within the next 24 months.

But, to be sure, there was nothing predictable about Massey’s path to sparkling wine Nirvana. Conceding that his back story “is pretty wild,” he explained, “The beginning is really important. There was a ton of love but not a lot of money in my family. My dad was in the Navy. He was in port (in Galveston) and met my mom (also a BOI) through mutual friends. She followed him to Spain, to Florida, to a lot of other places. They wanted to make a life for themselves on the island, but neither of them had a college education.”

His father Dan, as blue collar and salt-of-the-earth as they come, “built our house with his bare hands,” Massey said proudly. “We didn’t even have carpet, or AC. Hey, he sold his Harley to pay for the kitchen cabinets. We were kind a roughing it in the early days. But as I got older, I really wanted to see the world, so I started working at the San Luis Hotel as a valet parker when I was still in high school. I was really into cars and was trying to buy my first one.”

Fortuitously, the ways things turned out, that job didn’t last long. It seems the actress Sandra Bullock pulled in one evening with a small entourage and he took their luggage upstairs. The group then asked the 18-year Massey to chauffeur them to where the action was. Naturally, he agreed. Wouldn’t you? Finding the keys to the hotel’s Bentley at the valet stand and with no manager on duty, he headed out, Bullock and friends happily in tow.

The hotel’s management wasn’t pleased, to say the least.

He next landed at Luigi’s, the popular Italian restaurant on Galveston’s strand. It was there, he said, “that I got really big into trying to understand wine. I was underage, but I tasted a lot of wine with the older guys.” A gig at Sullivan’s Steakhouse in the Galleria area and then Zula in downtown Houston further expanded his wine horizons. But . . .

“I told my best friend, Kelly Finn, ‘Dude, we’ve got to turn the chapter on restaurants,’” he said. “’We’ve never been anywhere. We’ve got to visit the great wine regions. We’ve got to find a way to travel.’”

Massey contemplated a career in wine distribution – until he found out how poorly entry-level positions paid.

“I had my ah-ha no moment,” he said, laughing.

Although his degree from the University of Houston was in marketing, Massey soon finagled what proved to be a lucrative position with a global oil-and-gas company, “doing sales, presentations, that kind of stuff. It helped fund my passion.”

In the end, it would be bubbles that captured his fancy because he saw a way forward to make his wine unique. Or to use his own hyphenated word, “non-conformist.” Aging a non-vintage champagne for a minimum of five years couldn’t be less conformist. Most rest for closer to 15 months, with up to 12 grams of sugar added during same. For a workout maven like Massey, a buffed 6-2, 195-pounder, that level of dosage was unfathomable.

“We had to get away from adding sugar,” he said, explaining that he wanted a champagne made in a style that spoke to his personal ethos. Also, he’s wont to say, “transparency is at the forefront of our brand.”

To wit, on Madame Zéro’s back label, you can find calories per five-ounce serving (100), the carbs (1.5 grams) and the fat content (0). Ditto protein (also 0). No matter. With the dearth of sugar, it’s practically a health drink.        

And one that’s made, Massey insists, “with zero compromise.”

Raising a glass to . . . Del Harris

The new Hall-of-Famer coached the worst Rockets team in history (yes, even worse than the recent Rockets teams) back 1982-83. But that wasn’t his fault, believe me. He has positively impacted many of the greatest players of the modern era over half a century and he’s still in the game at the age of 85, serving as vice president of the Dallas Mavericks’ G-League team. Del was, and remains, a helluva nice guy, too. Cheers, coach!    

And to . . . Casper Ruud

The young Norwegian, who reached his first ATP World Tour final at River Oaks in 2019, lost his second Grand Slam final of 2022 at the U.S. Open Sunday, but he made a lot of new fans with his sportsmanship when he gave back what proved to be crucial point early in the final against Carlos Alcaraz. It came on a double bounce the umpire missed. Alcaraz went on to claim his first major title and become tennis’ youngest top-ranked male player ever. Both guys should win multiple Slams going forward. A new age beckons.     

Sippin’ With Sporty

    Pink

2021 Acumen Napa Valley Mountainside — Philip Titus’ personal winemaking acumen, best expressed in Acumen’s excellent cabs over the past decade, led to his crafting a predictably compelling rose from the winery’s Atlas Peak fruit. I’d rather not pay so much for a pink wine, but I’ll make an exception for this gem. I loved the bright red fruit flavors. It’s just a beautiful, immensely satisfying wine. $35 at http://acumenwine.com

                     White

2020 Cuvaison Méthod Béton –– The name references the fact that this small-lot white fermented in concrete eggs. It’s a blend of two Dijon clones that delivers beautiful aromas with pronounced white peach citrus notes on the palate. It’s equal parts elegant and intensely flavored with white peach and citrus at the forefront. $50 at http://cuvaison.com

                            Red

2018 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de la Tour Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon — One of Napa Valley’s reference standard cabs going back to the 1930s, it rarely disappoints. In awarding a 98-point score, Antonio Galloni called the wine “sensational,” praising it for the luscious red fruit layered with leather and licorice flavors. What he said! Well, what James Suckling and Jeb Dunnuck said, too. Their scores were 98 and a 97+ respectively.$150 at http://bvwines.com

H-Town Happenings

Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival — The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. http://eventbrite.com

Stella’s Wine Bar Symposium — Saturday, Oct. 8, 4 p.m. http://eventbrite.com

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There are no bad weeks in wine-blogger world. You’re meeting cool people and writing about stuff that gives us much pleasure. But some weeks are truly special and last week was one of them.

It started with a predictably spirited “Sporty Wine Guy” podcast recording session on Monday with Jeremy Parzen and ended with my first-ever visit to the far-field wilds of Tomball, where I found a quaint and lovely small town with an excellent wine bar and an outstanding BYOB – woo hoo!!! – Argentine steakhouse. But we’ll get to that in a moment because I’m going to recount my adventures in chronological order.  

Wednesday brought visits from an old friend, Nicole Rolet, and a new one, Carlo Pagnin. Rolet was in town for a frenetic day of tasting the local wine community on her new Chène Bleu releases (chenebleu.com), which included a predictably compelling 2021 rosé. We met up for would be my first ever wine breakfast at the Colombe d’Or. Pourquoi pas, right? It was five o’clock somewhere, after all.  

An American and a refugee from the corporate world, Nicole is a true force of nature, having transformed a crumbling monastery built in the Middle Ages into a state-of-the-art winery complex near the village of Crestet, in the shadow of Mont Ventoux, the towering hump that so routinely figures prominently in the Tour de France. We met back in 2010 when she put together the first-ever International Grenache Symposium at her place, bringing in luminaries from as far away as Australia to taste and compare notes on the great grape of France’s Southern Rhone Valley.                

Husband Xavier, who is both a Frenchman and the former president of the London Stock Exchange, had purchased the property and surrounding vineyards that became Chène Bleu not long before they met. The sparks flew between them and the next thing Nicole knew, she had become a vintner with lofty expectations of creating a Grand Cru-caliber wine in a neighborhood not known for same. There have been hiccups, to be sure, but the Rolets have been relentless in their pursuit of excellence.

And unafraid to think outside the wine box. An example: Their “feminine” red Héloïse includes a bit of Chène Bleu’s high-altitude viognier blended in with the dominant syrah and some grenache, following the Côte Rotie model in the Northern Rhone. But, since that doesn’t conform to France’s strict AOC regulations, it must be sold as a Vin de Pays, albeit one of the best you’ll ever encounter. Héloïse’s “masculine” counterpart, Abélard, is mostly grenache (85 percent) with syrah making up the rest.

Héloïse and Abélard, of course, were the star-crossed lovers from Medieval times – she was his young student – whose “uncompromising commitment to each other through time,” Nicole writes on her website, “reflects our own convictions.  We admire their ability to combine deep thinking, passion and tenacity.”  

Unfortunately, Chène Bleu isn’t widely available in Houston, but fortuitously I had seen a double magnum of the rosé high on a shelf at Montrose Cheese & Wine. It became the biggest and most expensive ($219) bottle of rosé I’ve ever purchased, but I got Nicole to sign the label, then my wife and I and four others shamelessly polished the whole thing off a couple nights later at Porta’Vino. To repeat myself, Pourquoi pas?       

Magnums of same are on the shelf at Houston Wine Merchant for $86.99. Pricey, to be sure, but worth it. This meticulously crafted age-worthy pink is Grand Cru-caliber by any measure.

Moving on . . . Lunch that happy day would be at Coppa, where Pagnin, the export manager, was showing his Muri-Gries wines (muri-gries.com) from Bolzano in the Südtirol/Alto Adige. We tasted two beautiful whites, a pinot grigio and a pinot bianco, and the winery’s flagship Lagrein, made from grapes that are grown in the center of Bolzano – literally – and are still tended to by Benedictine monks whose predecessors had moved from Muri in Switzerland to Bolzano in the mid-19^th century. The bottles we sampled can all be purchased through AOC Selections (aocselections.com).

It has been 30 years since I visited Bolzano, but I promised Pagnin I would return next spring to tour the gorgeous monastery (seen here) and taste Muri-Gries’ many other wines. A special producer, this one.  

Thursday’s lunch took place at Roegels Barbeque, where Jonathan Honefenger was holding court. At one time or another, any serious Houston wine consumer had surely encountered Honefenger, considering he held down jobs in every sector of the industry here until he up and moved to Oregon with his fiancee (and soon to be wife) Madeline just as the pandemic was hitting. Madeline, it seems, had bought a Peruvian vineyard once owned by her grandfather not long before she and Honefinger first met, so they readily had something in common to discuss.

Jonathan Honefenger

Although she at first didn’t want to date him, he’s a persuasive fellow. Now, they’re ensconced in Portland and have just introduced the Wild Child lineup of wines (wildchildwinecompany.com), which include a reisling, a gamay and a pinot noir. The reds paired splendidly with Roegels’ reference-standard barbeque and all three will soon be on the shelf at Houston Wine Merchant.

That’s the short version of Honefenger’s fascinating story. It will be continued in much greater detail in the near future.    

On Friday night, I finally met up with Casey Barber, the self-made fortysomething entrepreneur from Dallas who, despite raising three children as a single mother, founded the Rose Gold Rosé (rosegold.com), possibly the best-selling French rosé in Texas right now. It’s under $20 in retail – I most frequently scoop up my bottles at the West Gray Kroger – and it spirits you straight to the lovely hinterlands above St. Tropez, where the grapes are grown and the wine gets made.

In just five years, Rose Gold production has exploded from 1,000 cases to 12,000 and Barber’s hoping to double that next year. This all happened because of a memorable tasting experience in Provence on her honeymoon. The marriage may have ended, but it seems safe to say that Casey’s career in wine is only starting.

We convened at Ruggles Black because she and owner Neera Parador are friends. That proved wonderfully serendipitous because I’d suggested to the chef, Bruce Molzan, that he put Rose Gold on his list without knowing Casey and Neera knew each other.       

Then on Saturday night . . . Road trip!  The Newsom Family Vineyards tasting room occupies part of The Empty Glass wine bar (theemptyglass.com) in Tomball and the man behind the bar doing the pouring was Pablo Valqui, with whom I’m partnering on a food-and-wine tour in the South of France next spring. (Details can be found in my previous post and at gourmettours.biz.)

Newsom, of course, was already one of Texas’ premier grape-growers before he decided to release his own label and the juice is just as good as the fruit. In fact, the 2015 Newsom Merlot is the best example of that varietal I’ve run across in 2022 and it sells for a mere $29.95. A five-wine tasting in the cozy Newsom space goes for $18 and five reserve wines can be sampled for $28.              

Our next stop would be the nearby Che Gaucho steakhouse to actually drink the wines, and what a splendid experience that proved to be. The beef and empanadas were top-drawer authentic – the family hails from Argentina – and the BYOB aspect was too good to be true. Tomball has not seen the last of me, whatever the price of gas might be. (chegauchorestaurant.com)  

Despite all the sipping and kibbitzing, I still found time to knock out my first piece  for the Chronicle in a few months. It’s about Matthew Massey, the Madame Zéro champagne producer (madamezero.commadamezero.com) who, improbably, hails from Galveston. You’ll read that story in this space, too, after it appears in the Chron. He and Barber would obviously have many notes to compare, were they to meet, which I hope I can make happen soon.   

Alas, the one thing I didn’t do was attend the Cuvée Collective’s grand opening (cuveecollective.com) thanks to an emergency plumbing issue that had to be dealt with, dammit. Located near the Beltway and I-10 on the west side, it’s our newest upscale wine-storage/tasting venue and I’m told by those who have visited that it’s off-the-charts gorgeous with multiple venues within the warehouse for hosting events and an expansive list of storage options.

Hearty congratulations are in order for the founder, Ginny Endecott, who, like Barber and Massey, had the vision, the determination and the know-how to pull things together during a very difficult period in all of our lives. Ginny used to sit on my Chronicle tasting panel and happens to be even nicer than she is knowledgeable.

You’ll notice there are no wine touts from me this week. Instead, I’m expecting you to explore all of the aforementioned.       

 H-Town Happenings

* Night in Santiago – Camerata, Tuesday, Sept. 6, 6-8 p.m. Free admission. 713-522-8466 or cameratahouston.com

* Cheers for Charity benefitting Second Chances — Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Centers at CityCentre. 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10. eventbrite.com

* Crack Open the Case night: Exploring Wagner Family Wines — JMP Tasting Room, Humble. 6:30 p.m. Thursday, September 15. Starts at $50. eventbrite.com 

* Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival — The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. eventbrite.com

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Mark your calendars. My friend Pablo Valqui, an experienced tour operator, and I have officially partnered up on our first food-and-wine travel adventure, set for the South of France from May 24 through June 4 next year.    

We’ll be spending four days in Provence at the outset — including a day trip up to the gorgeous Ubaye Valley where the Robertsons “settled” 25 years ago — then heading to Languedoc-Roussillon before circling back through the Southern Rhone Valley and wrapping up with two nights in Nice. Highlights follow:

Food and wine: 

* Welcome dinner in the gorgeous gardens of La Table du Pigonnet in the center of Aix-en-Provence (www.hotelpigonnet.com).

* Pairing dinner at Domaine Gerard Bertrand’s Château l’Hospitalet south of Narbonne near the Mediterranean shore (chateau-hospitalet.com), then a sunset visit to a charming “crab shack” on the Grazel Lagoon near Gruissan. 

* Dinner at the Michelin-starred L’Oustelet on the plaza in Gigondas (loustalet-gigondas.com)

* Tastings at Saint-Pierre de Mejans in the Luberon (saintpierredemejans.com), Château La Mascaronne in the Var (chateau-lamascaronne.com), Domaine de Mourchon above Seguret (www.domainedemourchon.com), Chêne Bleu in the shadow of Mt. Ventoux (chenebleu.com) and Château de Saint-Cosme in Gigondas (saintcosme.com), plus a few other serendipitous stops.     

* A chef-prepared grand aperitif/tasting hosted by yours truly at our home above Barcelonnette (ubaye.com).

* A coastline tour from Nice to Monte Carlo, followed by a festive farewell to La Belle France dinner on our final night.

Culture:

* A tour of Marseille, France’s oldest and most diverse city.

* A tour of the historic Fontfroide Abbey, one of France’s most beautiful, with lunch in the charming restaurant there (fontfroide.com).   

* A tour of Sisteron’s famous Citadel, towering above the Durance River in Haute Provence (provence-alpes.coteazur.com).

Our price is $7,290 per person — maximum of 10 folks, to keep things intimate — and will include all wining, dining, lodging and transportation from the time you get off the plane in Marseille until you board another in Nice. Our hotels will each be superior class, yet unique in their own special ways.   

Official inquiries should be made to Valqui at info@gourmettours.biz, but don’t hesitate to reach out to me, too at sportywineguy@outlook.com

Banner Year!

In recent post, I spoke of the 60th and 50th anniversaries being celebrated in 2022 by Alexander Valley Vineyards and Jordan Winery respectively. But Jordan is hardly alone in marking its half-century in business. It seems 1972 was the most magical of years in the modern history of the California wine industry.

Jordan’s Sonoma County neighbor, Dry Creek Vineyards, also came on line and the Napa Valley scene exploded with Caymus, Silver Oak, Diamond Creek, Clos du Val, Burgess, Mount Veeder, Rutherford Hill, Smith-Madrone and  Sullivan Rutherford Estate releasing their inaugural vintages.

Up in Calistoga, Jim Barrett and Ernie Hahn purchased Chateau Montelena, which had sat dormant since Prohibition. A year later, of course, Barrett’s first Chardonnay release conquered the French in the “Judgment of Paris.” California has been front and center on the world’s wine map ever since.  

Tasting Texas

Tickets have gone on sale for the Texas Hill Country Wineries Texas Wine Month passport event running throughout the month of October. With the purchase of a digital passport, wine lovers can visit up to four of the 45 participating wineries per day while receiving discounts on bottle purchases. Passport tickets are $120 per couple or $85 for an individual with $5 from each ticket sold going directly to the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund  To date, more than $55,500 has been awarded to 47 Texas students working towards a degree in viticulture, enology or hospitality.  Go  to https://texaswinetrail.com/texas-wine-month to secure your tickets.

Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Honefenger

The former Houstonian, who played a variety of roles in our wine community for many years, has resettled in Portland with a new wife and become a winemaker. Honefinger’s Wild Child Winery has a Gamay and a Pinot Noir on offer for $28 with more Willamette Valley wines coming soon. He’ll be visiting Houston next week, so I’m hoping to catch up with him. Check out his website: wildchildwinecompany.com      

Pouring one out for . . . Steve Worster

Before there was Earl Campbell, there was Steve Worster. Big Woo was a load, too, believe me. Like the Tyler Rose became in the mid-1970s, Worster was The Man for Texas Longhorns teams that won 30 consecutive games and two national championships in 1968-70. He made the Wishbone offense — but the Wishbone offense made him, too. Unlike Campbell, a first-ballot Hall-of-Famer, he never found stardom as a pro. In fact, he never played a down in the NFL.      

Sippin’ with sporty

Bubbles 

Madame Zéro Champagne – You’ll be reading a lot more about Matthew Massey in my blog going forward, but I wanted to introduce to this outstanding bottle of bubbles post haste because, well, as Charles Barkley used to say, “Life is short and death is long.” The “zero,” of course, references the dosage, or lack thereof, that arguably makes Massey’s all-chardonnay sparkler, with almost no sugar in the mix, a health drink. That was his intention. The 39-year-old Galveston native – yep, Ball High School – is a workout nut, too. In short, he’s an amazing story and I can’t wait to tell it. But don’t wait to buy the wine, a for-real value a $56.99 on the shelf at Spec’s.               

Rosé

2020 Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence– Sacha Lichine’s famous Provençal pink, a major player in the world’s 21^st century rosé renaissance, never disappoints. The critic James Suckling scored this vintage a 92, touting the grenache, cinsault and vermentino blend’s “very pale apricot-pink color (with) delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones (that) follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth.” Note that Suckling also gave the 2021, which you’re probably seeing more of on the shelves these days, a 92. The gorgeous estate, acquired by Lichine in 2006, is northeast of St. Tropez overlooking La Vallée d’Esclans with the Mediterranean coast just visible in the distance. 

White

2020 Kosta Browne One-Sixteenth Chardonnay Russian River Valley – Kosta Browne is, of course, best known for its pinot noirs. Fact is I’d never tasted one of the chardonnays until this one. In a word, wow! The winemaker, Julien Howsepian, says his wine “is rich and lean with laser focus, and a minerality that calls to mind a ‘salt of the earth’ country ballad. Excellent structure, weight, and super balanced–a delicious heartfelt chardonnay.” The fruit was sourced from eight name-brand Russian River Valley vineyards and six of the most famous chardonnay clones were utilized. What could possibly go wrong? Absolutely nothing, it seems. But it’s pricey – $99 at wine.com

Red

2018 Papa Pietro-Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – Another personal “discovery,” this one. (I gotta get out more!) Also a blend of multiple vineyards and clones – vinification of each was done separately – the juice spent 11 months in French oak, a third new. The wine packs a hefty flavor punch with red fruit galore. And the winery’s back story might even be better than the wine. Founded in Ben and Yolanda Papapietro’s San Francisco garage, the winery became a viable business in 2000 and has been earning accolades ever since. Ben’s love of pinot noir dates to his first tasting 1950s French burgundies and he remains inspired by same today. $61 at papapietro-perry.com

H-Town Happenings

* Night in Santiago: Camerata, Tuesday, Sept. 6, 6-8 p.m. Free admission. 713-522-8466 or cameratahouston.com

* Cheers for Charity benefitting Second Chances: Red Oak Ballroom at Norris Conference Centers at CityCentre. 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10. eventbrite.com

* Crack Open the Case night: Exploring Wagner Family Wines: JMP Tasting Room, Humble. 6:30 p.m. Thursday, September 15. Starts at $50. eventbrite.com 

* Indulge Your Palate: A Food, Beer & Wine Tasting Festival: The Health Museum. 5 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 29. Starts at $30. eventbrite.com

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Follow these folks, too

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com) – My Podcast partner in crime goes slightly off topic and gets us up to speed on the rescue of a wild boar that got trapped in Milan’s canal system. You can catch our conversations wherever you get your podcasts at “Sporty Wine Guy.”

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com) – Sandra tasted with native Houstonian and newly hatched winemaker Jonathan Honefenger, who has moved to Portland and launched his Wild Child lineup of Oregon wines.

* Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger looks at Texas’ 2022 harvest, said to be an excellent one but also one that’s wrapping up early.

* Jeff Kralick (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff runs through a list of wines that have gotten him excited of late.

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com) – Kat also weighs in the 2022 Texas harvest.

Mark your calendars. My friend Pablo Valqui, an experienced tour operator, and I have officially partnered up on our first food-and-wine travel adventure, set for the South of France from May 24 through June 4 next year.    

We’ll be spending four days in Provence at the outset — including a day trip up to the gorgeous Ubaye Valley where the Robertsons “settled” 25 years ago — then heading to Languedoc-Roussillon before circling back through the Southern Rhone Valley and wrapping up with two nights in Nice. Highlights follow:

Food and wine: 

* Welcome dinner in the gorgeous gardens of La Table du Pigonnet in the center of Aix-en-Provence (www.hotelpigonnet.com).

The lagoon

* Pairing dinner at Domaine Gerard Bertrand’s Château l’Hospitalet south of Narbonne near the Mediterranean shore (chateau-hospitalet.com), then a sunset visit to a charming “crab shack” on the Grazel Lagoon near Gruissan. 

* Dinner at the Michelin-starred L’Oustelet on the plaza in Gigondas (loustalet-gigondas.com)

* Tastings at Saint-Pierre de Mejans in the Luberon (saintpierredemejans.com), Château La Mascaronne in the Var (chateau-lamascaronne.com), Domaine de Mourchon above Seguret (www.domainedemourchon.com), Chêne Bleu in the shadow of Mt. Ventoux (chenbleu.com) and Château de Saint-Cosme in Gigondas (saintcosme.com), plus a few other serendipitous stops.     

* A chef-prepared grand aperitif/tasting hosted by yours truly at our home above Barcelonnette (ubaye.com).

* A coastline tour from Nice to Monte Carlo, followed by a festive farewell to La Belle France dinner on our final night.

Culture:

* A tour of Marseille, France’s oldest and most diverse city.

The Abbey

* A tour of the historic Fontfroide Abbey, one of France’s most beautiful, with lunch in the charming restaurant there (fontfroide.com).   

* A tour of Sisteron’s famous Citadel, towering above the Durance River in Haute Provence (provence-alpes-cotedazur.com).

Our price is $7,290 per person — maximum of 10 folks, to keep things intimate — and will include all wining, dining, lodging and transportation from the time you get off the plane in Marseille until you board another in Nice. Our hotels will each be superior class, yet unique in their own special ways.   

Official inquiries should be made to Valqui at pablo@gourmettours, but don’t hesitate to reach out to me, too at sportywineguy@outlook.com.

Banner Year!

In recent post, I spoke of the 60th and 50th anniversaries being celebrated in 2022 by Alexander Valley Vineyards and Jordan Winery respectively. But Jordan is hardly alone in marking its half-century in business. It seems 1972 was the most magical of years in the modern history of the California wine industry.

Jordan’s Sonoma County neighbor, Dry Creek Vineyards, also came on line and the Napa Valley scene exploded with Caymus, Silver Oak, Diamond Creek, Clos du Val, Burgess, Mount Veeder, Rutherford Hill, Smith-Madrone and  Sullivan Rutherford Estate releasing their inaugural vintages.

Up in Calistoga, Jim Barrett and Ernie Hahn purchased Chateau Montelena, which had sat dormant since Prohibition. A year later, of course, Barrett’s first Chardonnay release conquered the French in the “Judgment of Paris.” California has been front and center on the world’s wine map ever since.  

Tasting Texas

Tickets have gone on sale for the Texas Hill Country Wineries Texas Wine Month passport event running throughout the month of October. With the purchase of a digital passport, wine lovers can visit up to four of the 45 participating wineries per day while receiving discounts on bottle purchases. Passport tickets are $120 per couple or $85 for an individual with $5 from each ticket sold going directly to the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund  To date, more than $55,500 has been awarded to 47 Texas students working towards a degree in viticulture, enology or hospitality.  Go  to https://texaswinetrail.com/texas-wine-month to secure your tickets.

Raising a glass to . . . Jonathan Honefinger 

The former Houstonian, who played a variety of roles in our wine community for many years, has resettled in Portland with a new wife and become a winemaker. Honefinger’s Wild Child Winery has a Gamay and a Pinot Noir on offer for $28 with more Willamette Valley wines coming soon. He’ll be visiting Houston next week, so I’m hoping to catch up with him. Check out his website: wildchildwinecompany.com.      

Pouring one out for . . . Steve Worster

Before there was Earl Campbell, there was Steve Worster. Big Woo was a load, too, believe me. Like the Tyler Rose became in the mid-1970s, Worster was The Man for Texas Longhorns teams that won 30 consecutive games and two national championships in 1968-70. He made the Wishbone offense — but the Wishbone offense made him, too. Unlike Campbell, a first-ballot Hall-of-Famer, he never found stardom as a pro. In fact, he never played a down in the NFL.      

Sippin’ with sporty

Bubbles 

Madame Zéro Champagne – You’ll be reading a lot more about Matthew Massey in my blog going forward, but I wanted to introduce to this outstanding bottle of bubbles post haste because, well, as Charles Barkley used to say, “Life is short and death is long.” The “zero,” of course, references the dosage, or lack thereof, that arguably makes Massey’s all-chardonnay sparkler, with almost no sugar in the mix, a health drink. That was his intention. The 39-year-old Galveston native – yep, Ball High School – is a workout nut, too. In short, he’s an amazing story and I can’t wait to tell it. But don’t wait to buy the wine, a for-real value a $56.99 on the shelf at Spec’s.               

Rosé

2020 Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence– Sacha Lichine’s famous Provençal pink, a major player in the world’s 21^st century rosé renaissance, never disappoints. The critic James Suckling scored this vintage a 92, touting the grenache, cinsault and vermentino blend’s “very pale apricot-pink color (with) delicate aromas of sliced apple, pink grapefruit, peach, cream and stones (that) follow through to a medium body and crisp acidity. Deliciously creamy and smooth.” Note that Suckling also gave the 2021, which you’re probably seeing more of on the shelves these days, a 92. The gorgeous estate, acquired by Lichine in 2006, is northeast of St. Tropez overlooking La Vallée d’Esclans with the Mediterranean coast just visible in the distance. 

2020 Kosta Browne One-Sixteenth Chardonnay Russian River Valley – Kosta Browne is, of course, best known for its pinot noirs. Fact is I’d never tasted one of the chardonnays until this one. In a word, wow! The winemaker, Julien Howsepian, says his wine “is rich and lean with laser focus, and a minerality that calls to mind a ‘salt of the earth’ country ballad. Excellent structure, weight, and super balanced–a delicious heartfelt chardonnay.” The fruit was sourced from eight name-brand Russian River Valley vineyards and six of the most famous chardonnay clones were utilized. What could possibly go wrong? Absolutely nothing, it seems. But it’s pricey – $99 at wine.com.

2018 Papa Pietro-Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – Another personal “discovery,” this one. (I gotta get out more!) Also a blend of multiple vineyards and clones – vinification of each was done separately – the juice spent 11 months in French oak, a third new. The wine packs a hefty flavor punch with red fruit galore. And the winery’s back story might even be better than the wine. Founded in Ben and Yolanda Papapietro’s San Francisco garage, the winery became a viable business in 2000 and has been earning accolades ever since. Ben’s love of pinot noir dates to his first tasting 1950s French burgundies and he remains inspired by same today. $61 at papapietro-perry.com. 

I’ve got a fun week ahead, meeting up with two Houston vintners from very different walks of life, Jean-François Bonneté and Matthew Massey.

I’ve known Bonneté for a couple years now, although the onset of the pandemic coincided with our meeting so we haven’t had much time to break bread and sip wine together. I’ll be breaking bread with him at Étoile on Tuesday. As for the Galveston-born Massey, who did well enough in oil and gas to launch his own Madame Zero (madamezero.com) line of champagne, our paths have yet to cross, but we’ll finally be tasting together on Thursday at Vault & Vino in Montrose. He’s gotten great traction with is edgy, uber-dry style of bubbles at some of Houston’s best restaurants.        

Bonneté and his wife Nathalie, who hail from Brittany and Normandy respectfully but met by chance in Houston a number of years ago, founded a wine-and-spirits importing company, BCI, in 2015 (bonnete.com) and also have their own lineup of Liberation of Paris wines, thusly named because of the kindness an American GI showed his father not long after the D-Day landing in route to accomplishing same. 

“From the time I was a child, my father was always telling me I should go to America,”  Bonneté told me in our first conversation. “He really loves this country. But, the funny thing is, he would never tell me why. He didn’t like talking about that time in his life. It was very hard.” 

I’ve done my homework on Massy by reading my friend Sandra Crittenden’s excellent piece on him that ran earlier this summer in Galveston Monthly and can now be found at her winelifehouston.com blog. 

I’ll also be catching up with Amanda Hu,  who’s off to a rousing start representing Riboli Family Wines  (riboliwines.com). A  native of China with a Masters Degree from the University of Houston, she began her career in wine with Southern Glazers and in her spare time helped me heard cats with my group blind tastings during my tenure with the Chronicle. Never had a better righthand person! We’ll be tasting Tuesday evening at Ruggles Black with Neera Parador, the force of nature who keeps that remarkable spot humming while keeping my longtime chef buddy Bruce Molzan in check.         

Take-aways from these conversations will make up a good portion of my next missive. In this one, you see that I’ve added a  new wine-themed — if not necessarily wine-centric — segment to the content mix, tying together my two career professions/passions. Sports and wine of course! 

Raising a glass to . . . Justin Verlander

The historic reference standard for regular-season pitching excellence locally used to be the end of Randy Johnson’s partial-season tenure as an Astro. Over his final seven starts in 1998, the Big Unit went 7-0 with an 1.16 ERA. He gave up only 35 hits over 54.1 innings while striking out 78 vs. 18 walks with two home runs allowed. Yep, just two. However, Verlander’s own 7-0 run since June 24 has somehow raised the bar. Over his 47.2 innings, he has permitted four earned runs for an ERA of 0.76 and a mere 30 hits. His K-to-BB ratio is 47-7 and he, too has given up only a pair of homers, but one of them in his last six starts. The best part, of course, is that V-for-Victory’s seemingly certain Cy Young season is hardly over. Johnson would make only two more starts in an Astros uniform — a pair of post-season losses to the Padres in which the Astros scored two runs behind him — before moving on to Arizona.                 

Pouring one out for . . . Bill Russell

Boston’s big man, the greatest big man ever, invented modern basketball at multiple levels and no sports figure other than Jackie Robinson blazed a more important trail. As the centerpiece of 11 championship teams in 13 seasons, he also re-defined what it meant to be a winner. As an advocate for social justice, he cast a towering shadow as well.        

Breaking a bottle over the head of . . . Vladimir Putin  and Alex Jones

On Britteny Griner’s behalf, vis-a-vis the contemptible Cretin of the Kremlin. What Putin’s Russia has done to her, never mind Ukraine,  is  equal parts travesty and tragedy. Here’s hoping he’ll eventually get what he deserves. As for the morally bankrupt, physically repugnant Jones, hopefully he’ll  soon be fiscally bankrupt after two more juries do the right thing, as did the one in Austin Friday to the tune of $45 million in punitive damages for his awful lies. There’s no hell big enough or hot enough for these two thugs.           

Sippin’ with sporty

Rosé

* 2021 Reserve Saint Marc — Made by the highly respected Foncalieu cooperative in Puichéric in Southwestern France’s Aude region, it’s a lovely, lively pink syrah at a spectacular price, a mere $7.99 at Spec’s. You’d think just the shipping costs would run higher than that. Founded 50 years ago, Foncalieu is a cooperative with some 650 grape growers who farm a combined 10,000 Languedoc acres. Strength in numbers, to be sure.     

White

* 2021 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc — This is the best expression of New World sauvignon blanc I’ve had the pleasure of sampling in a long time. You’ll taste lemons and melons with just a hint of oak in the background. Bordeaux in style with a trace of semillon in the blend, it’s as elegant as it’s flavorful. But we’ve come to expect such a high level of quality from the historic estate, which was established in 1882. A hundred years later, its first vintage cabernet was released. $43.59 at Spec’s   

Red

* 2017 Ducru Beaucaillou — Full disclosure: I don’t routinely spring for wines at such a lofty price point ($217.89 at Spec’s) But a most kind friend brought a bottle to dinner one evening and . . . wow. Six national wine critics gave it scores between 98 and 95. It’s hard to imagine a better example of a modern Bordeaux, and it’s worth every penny. Mostly tiny-yield cabernet fruit (merlot makes up 10 percent of the blend), this gem from Saint-Julien should age magnificently, although I wouldn’t hesitate to open another bottle tonight, were itoffered to me. Now accepting donations!       

H-Town Happenings

* Sullivan Rutherford Estate tasting with Certified Wine Educator James C. Barlow of Spec’s and Sullivan’s Dan Horsch — Vault and Vino, 6:30-8 p.m. Tuesday Aug. 9. $55. jamesbarlow@specsonline.com

* The Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting — Bayway Cadillac of The Woodlands, 6-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 12. $65-$125. wineandfoodweek.com

* Bending Branch wine dinner — The Empty Glass in Tomball, 6:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 16. $105. theemptyglass.com 

* Truly Greek Truly Unique wine tasting — Lakonia Imports tasting room in Humble, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 17. localwineevents.com      

Follow me

Team Jordan

In a perfect world, I would have made it to California a couple weeks ago to help two of my favorite wineries celebrate milestone anniversaries. But then I nearly took a nasty tumble on the staircase late one night in search of a cold glass of water – yes, dammit, water!!! – and therefore concluded a major lifestyle change was in order. So . . . out with stairs, in with elevators.

High-rise living here we come. Falls ain’t good for old geezers with brand-new hips and a wrecked knee. 

John Jordan

Moves aren’t either, of course. But if not now, when? Anyway, the personal upheaval combined with a newfound fear of flying — these are batsh*t crazy times for the airlines — caused me to miss Alexander Valley Vineyards’ 60^th anniversary celebration and a “Summer of Giving” soirée at Jordan. The winery has been hosting a series of these events across the country to celebrate its 50^th birthday in turn with supporting worthy causes through the John Jordan Foundation (johnjordanfoundation.org) 

However, I did get to raise a few glasses Saturday night at Porta’Vino with AVV’s  operations director Harry Wetzel IV, whose namesake grandfather launched the business. And, no, the acorn doesn’t fall far from the oak. The winery is in excellent hands with him and his brother, Rob, who oversees the sales-and-marketing wing. They’ve got this. In fact, Harry arrived with a sauvignon blanc, a first for AVV. It was delicious . . . but not yet available in Texas. Next spring, he promised!  

As for Jordan, it has a couple more dinners planned in August. I might still make it out there, our pending move notwithstanding. Fingers crossed. 

Harry and Maggie Wetzel

While there may older and arguably more iconic California wineries, than Jordan and AVV, the list is a very short one. And their respective properties, both in the cellar and around the grounds, are second to none. They’re practically Alexander Valley neighbors, too. Hank Wetzel’s father, also named Harry, started what became the great AVV adventure when he and his wife Maggie bought their gorgeous real estate without having ever set foot on it in the summer of 1962. The elder Harry, an aviation company CEO, had traveled the world visiting some of its greatest vineyards and had become convinced Sonoma County offered similar potential. Flights from his home in Southern California on Pacific Southwest had dropped to $11.49 per ticket – really – and that made it cheap and easy to cart the family up to the North Coast on a regular basis.

Harry wound up taking over the property owned by Cyrus Alexander, the original homesteader in the neighborhood back in the mid-19th century. The first vines would be planted a year later and the inaugural AVV cabernet sauvignons, made from two 50-gallon barrels, went into bottles in 1968. The rest, as we say, is history.

Harry Wetzel IV

 In case you may have forgotten, AVV’s flagship Cyrus red blend has won an unrivaled four Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo International Wine Competition Grand Champion Best of Show saddles for the 1999, 2006, 2008 and 2014 vintages. We tasted the 2016 Saturday evening and, trust me, it will be a strong contender, too. More kudos to Kevin Hall, one of the longest-tenured winemakers in California who has presided over all of the 

above.        

John Jordan, for his part, was born the same week that his father Tom and his mother Sally closed on their land up the road. Like Harry Wetzel, they were inspired by the vintners and vineyards they had visited in Europe, particularly in France. The Jordans’ high-minded goal was to make a California cab that spoke with a French accent. My first taste of the Jordan came in the mid-1990s and I recall thinking that I was indeed drinking one of Bordeaux’s classed growths.

Mission accomplished.

Tom hadn’t messed around. He hired André Tchelistcheff, already a Napa legend, as consulting enologist, then hired a young fellow named Rob Davis to handle the daily chores. Davis was instrumental in the making of Jordan’s first cab in 1976 and he would stay at the helm through his retirement in 2019.

For the record, I have finally forgiven John and his multi-talented right-hand person, Lisa Mattson, who has become a dear friend, for including Dallas instead of Houston on their paying-it-forward American tour.  

Upcoming Jordan Social Impact Summer dinners, both al fresco on the winery’s gorgeous terrace, are set for Aug. 13 and Aug. 27. Details can be found at jordanwinery.com. And who knows? I might still make it out should a seat at a table remain available. If so, I hope to see you there.     

Note that two wines from both AVV and Jordan are among my nine touts for today. I thought I owed you a few extra ones for being off the blogging grid the last couple of weeks. Sorry!

Sippin’ with sporty

Rosé

Chandon étoile Brut Rosé – A classic blend of chardonnay (47 percent), pinot noir (45) and pinot meunier (8), this pale pink but intensely flavored sparkler tastes of strawberries and lemon with a touch of almond. Founded in the late 1950s in Argentina by Robert-Jean de Vogüe, Chandon launched the California branch of the family’s now-global bubbles business (chandon.com) not long after Jordan’s founding. $39.97 at Total Wine

2021 Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese – AVV’s 16^th vintage of its always-enticing rosé profited from a nearly perfect growing season. Tasting of red fruit and watermelon with just a hint of peach, it’s “pure California sunshine in a glass,” suggests long-tenured winemaker Kevin Hall, who started with AVV in 1998. I won’t disagree and neither would the judges at the 2021 California State Fair, who awarded it a nearly perfect score of 99. For Spec’s price of $14.99, it’s a superb value, too. avv.com

2021 Lynmar Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir – The Russian River Valley fruit is a blend of 11 pinot noir clones. The wine, aged for four months in stainless steel, tastes of peaches, pomegranates and hibiscus flower, with a tangy touch of orange zest. The Lynmar Estate, founded four decades ago by Lynn Fritz, borders the western edge of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the Russian River’s largest tributary, and is only 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Lynn Fritz bought his first vineyard, Quail Hill, four years ago. $33 at lynmarestate.com

White

* 2019 Aridus Viognier – The fruit was all estate grown in southeastern Arizona’s Chiricahua foothills and the wine was the end result of a complicated series of experiments (explained in detail at ariduswineco.com) conducted by the wine-making/growing team of Lisa Strid and Scott Dahmer. It aged in a mix of neutral and second-fill French oak, stainless steel and sandstone jar, resulting in a complex, nuanced, super-satisfying summer sipper. $35 at ariduswineco.com

* 2020 Jordan Chardonnay Alexander Valley – A blend of 17 vineyard blocks from six growers, the grape clusters were destemmed and gently pressed at night for a maximum extraction of freshness and acidity. The juice fermented for 12 days in both French oak barrels (54 percent new) and stainless steel tanks. Four months of sur lie aging followed, resulting in a wine with Fuji apple aromas – always the mark of a good vintage according to winemaker Maggie Kruse. $40 at jordanwinery.com (The 2019 is at Spec’s for $31.34)  

* 2021 Lost Draw Cellars Texas High Planes Picpoul Blanc – For me, picpoul blanc, despite its Spanish heritage, is evocative of the South of France because I drank it frequently during my Tour de France years while passing through the Languedoc. But it clearly thrives in the High Plains’ sunshine and semi-rarefied air. Picpoul loosely translates to “kiss of lemon” and that’s definitely the keynote flavor here. Winemaker Chris Bundrett notes the “laser-beam of citrus on the palate, focused, steely, yet juicy.” $35 at lostdrawcellars.com     

Bottom of Form

Red

2018 Pedernales Cellars Texas High Plains Graciano – I can’t decide whether I was more surprised by Lost Draw’s Picpoul Blanc or this delightful red from Pedernales’ winemaker David Kuhlken, who touts “the lovely fruit notes, but also very gnarly, dark, iron and earth.” Spanish in origin like picpoul, graciano is a used in Rioja blends but obviously can take center stage, with syrah and carignan in supporting roles. $45 at pedernalescellars.com

2019 Alexander Valley Vineyards Homestead Red – Winemaker Kevin Hall says he “anchored the blend with rich, concentrated merlot (45 percent), added zinfandel (32) for spicy notes, cabernet sauvignon (8) for elegant structure, grenache (6) for berry flavors, mourvèdre (5) for additional texture and syrah (4) for more bright spicy flavors and floral aromatics.” Yep, that’s six count ‘em six varietals, each of which was fermented and barrel-aged separately “to maximize complexity and broaden the spicy dark fruit, oak and vanilla flavors in the glass.” $23 at shopavv.com

2018 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley – Cab makes up 80 percent of the blend, but merlot (11), petit Verdot (7) and malbec (2) offer their two-cents worth as well. This ageworthy wine spent 13 months in French oak (35 percent new) and underwent 37 months of aging before release. Kruse calls it a “showstopper vintage, with black cherry, boysenberry and black fig aromas jumping out of the glass.” $60 at jordan.com   

H-town Happenings

*Avignonesi Wine Dinner with Gabe Chiocca – Roma, 6 p.m. Wednesday. $89 plus tax and gratuity. romahouston.com  

* Argentine Empanada and Wine Night – SERCA Wines Tasting Room. 5-7 p.m.Saturday, July 30. $40 per person or $120 for four with a bottle of wine. SERCAwines.com

* Gran Corte Reserva Vertical Tasting, 2014 through 2019 vintages — SERCA Wines Tasting Room, 5 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 6. $80 ($64 for Wine Club members) SERCAwines.com    

* Sullivan Rutherford Estate wine tasting with Certified Wine Educator James C. Barlow of Spec’s and Sullivan’s Dan Horsch – Vault and Vino, 6:30-8 p.m. Tuesday, Aug. 9. $40. $55. jamesbarlow@specsonline.comjamesbarlow@specsonline.com   

Follow me

* Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy

* Instagram: sportywineguy

* Twitter: @sportywineguy

* Facebook: Dale Robertson

Other folks to follow

* Sandra Crittenden (winelifehouston.com– Sandra explores Oregon’s new sub-AVAs.

* Russ Kane (vintagetexas.com) – The Texas Wineslinger tells you everything you need to know about the aforementioned Graciano grape. In fact, it was him who generously shared the bottle from Lost Draw Cellars.  

* Jeff Kralik (thedrunkencyclist.com) – Jeff offers his take on the best wines he has tasted recently. His pick of the week? The 2005 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières.  

* Jeremy Parzen (dobianchi.com)  – My podcast partner in crime gives us the lowdown on his two favorite Italy-centric wine bloggers, Riccardo Fabbio (Wine Telling Riky) and Kevin Day (Opening a Bottle).    

* Katrina Rene (thecorkscrewconcierge.com) – Kat salutes the many wonders of the sauvignon blanc-centric whites from Bordeaux.