On the Road Again with Pablo and Me

And this time we’re off to my favorite corner of Italy — the Piemonte — but with a few far-afield adventures, too.

We start in Turin and we finish in Milan. In between, we’ll be making an overnight excursion over a gorgeous high Alpine pass back into my neck of the French woods, the Ubaye Valley, before hunkering down in the environs of Alba for four days of winery visits and evenings spent enjoying exceptionally fine-dining. The Langhe, the Roero, Monferrato and the new Nizza DOCG will be our playground. In route to Milan, we’ll taste bubbles in Franciacorta and spend a night on Lake Como.

Until COVID shut down travel, I had made a pilgrimage to the Piemonte at least once a year from 1997 through 2019, then again in 2021 and 2022. I’ll have visited three more times before we begin our nine days in culinary/oenological heaven. As for Turin, I spent almost three weeks there covering the 2006 Winter Olympics. Believe me, there is no finer place on this planet to enjoy cutting-edge cuisine paired with Italy’s greatest wines and gorgeous scenery.

We’ll gather in Turin on Wednesday, May 22, and say our fond farewells in Milan on Saturday night, June 1. Lots of tweaking and fine-tuning remains, but, just to provide a sampling of where we’re going and who we’ll be seeing, a list of links for places that are certain to be on our itinerary are listed below.

It’s $7,750 per person — all inclusive once you’re on the ground, and only four of our maximum 10 spots remain. Contact Pablo Valqui (pablo@gourmettours.biz) to secure your reservation.

Hotels

http://villatiboldi.com (Shown above; It will be our base for four nights in the Alba area)

http://villamorelia.com (For our night in the Ubaye Valley, with a chef-prepared dinner at my home)

Wineries

http://ceretto.com (shown above)

http://visit.oddero.it

http://malvira.com (adjacent to Villa Tiboldi)

http://marchesidigresy

http://marchesibarolo.com

http://domenicoclerico.com

http://lucamarengo.it

Restaurants

http://massimocamia.it

http://enotecadelbarbaresco.com

http://lapiola-alba.it

http://reginadellealpi.com

http://lapiola-alba.it

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Free Tastings every Wednesday: 5-7 p.m. at Montrose Cheese & Wine

Tastings every Thursday at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Traveling across small-town country in the U.S. is always a reminder that an overwhelming number of Americans care little about fine wine. In big and medium-sized U.S. cities today, it’s almost impossible not to find at least a handful of venues where the wine program is thoughtfully authored and managed. But as our recent trip to Orange Beach (near Gulf Shores), Alabama revealed, even in popular tourist destinations like the pristine white beaches of the Alabama coast, wine is just another adult beverage like the tequila, vodka, and beer etc. restaurateurs use to fill their bar wells . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “

In the 1600s, Spanish missionaries heading north from Mexico brought vine cuttings to plant when they crossed the Rio Grande and entered the frontier land of Tejas, now called Texas. Their vines were Criolla, a cultivar of a European vinifera wine grape that made its way from Spain to Argentina and on upward to Mexico and finally into Texas. These days, many people just referred to the Criolla grapes by the name “Mission” because they were used to make wine for sacraments in the Catholic services at the missions. Fast forward to the 1970s, May 1974 to be exact, when a young UT grad and Houston marketing consultant Dean Joyner announced that his Haversack Wine Company would be opening its general office in Fredericksburg. He also announced that his wine company had a partner, a California wine producer. The goal was to begin a brand merchandising program built around the “haversack” theme. What’s a haversack? Well, read further and you’ll find out . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “At the beginning of August, our family hopped on a plane and left Houston for France. Although the purpose of the trip was to travel a bit and to deliver our older son Nathan to Lyon where he will be studying for the semester, it sure was nice to get away from the heat in Houston . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Looking to broaden your white wine horizons? Why not do it for National White Wine Day? Yes, it’s anther “XXX” day, but I do find the wine days are fun ways to explore things I don’t necessarily think about. It’s funny, because when I first started drinking wine, you were hard-pressed to get me to drink much white wine. I was all about Pinot Noir and then eventually bolder red wines. You know, after I got past my 5-gallon box of White Zinfandel phase. Hey, we all have to start somewhere! And it was that way for a while. But over the years, things began to shift . . .”

Going Down Memory Lane

Updated August 2

We all have special wines that serve as reference points on our oenological journeys. Two of mine converged in Houston last week. Michael Honig conducted a tasting of his Hoenig wines (http://honigwines.com) at Double Decanted on Tuesday evening and David Gates, representing Ridge Vineyards (http://ridgewines.com), took the spotlight Thursday evening at Vault & Vino.

I first met Honig, pictured below, back in the late 1990s at his Rutherford winery on a trip with a restaurant friend. She had turned me on to the Honig Sauvignon Blanc, which, as it happened, was his best-known wine. Unfortunately, it still wasn’t that well-known because, he said, “Nobody wanted to drink sauvignon blanc in those days. Remember, Robert Mondavi changed the name of his to Fume Blanc.”

Things have changed, of course, although not the Honig Sauvignon Blanc. Or, better, sauvignon blancs. The 2021 Reserve ($38 at http://honigwine.com) really sings. To quote James Suckling, who scored it a 92: “The extraordinary interplay between fruit and oak creates a richly textured mid-palate that is seamlessly balanced on solid acidity and minerality.” Suckling suggests it will drink nicely through 2026, if not longer. The Honig cabs rock, too. Note that Fleming’s is featuring the Honig sav blanc this month ($13 for a glass, $57 for a bottle) as a surf & turf pairing.

Check out the website and you’ll see a picture of him on a tractor in 1984 at the age of 22 as he began the process of reviving what was then a failing winery. At 61, Honig’s still in the game, spending more time on the road spreading the good word than he does at the property. He loves meeting his customers almost as much as he loves drinking his wines.

Ridge, of course, is the stuff of legend. In the late 1950s, three Stanford Research Institute engineers pooled their resources to purchase a gorgeous plot of land high in the Santa Cruz Mountains above the Palo Alto campus. The land, bought for recreationally purposes only, came with an abandoned winery and a scraggly vineyard. But it produced enough grapes for the three “garagistes” to make a quarter of a barrel of damned good cabernet. by 1962, they had released a first official vintage and the rest is history. You can get all the details at http://ridgewine.com.

Gates, shown below, oversees the extensive vineyard operations for Ridge and has been part of the Ridge team since1989, which was about the time I was all in on the Ridge Zinfandels from Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and Paso Robles, and the Geyserville red blend. In fact, those were my go-to reds for at least a decade, until putting down roots in southeastern France turned my focus to the Southern Rhone and Italy’s Piemonte.

But it was a splendid tasting experience to revisit all of the above plus Ridge’s Chardonnay, Estate Cabernet and, of course, the big dog cab, Monte Bello. My discretionary spending budget never quite caught up with the latter’s price point (it’s now $250 at Spec’s) for me to become a regular imbiber, never mind collector, but there’s real value in the others. I will be reloading on my next trip to the Midtown store.

Another notable H-town visitor has been David Keck (pictured below), back in Houston on Tuesday to lead a trade seminar on Rhone Valley wines at the Art of Cellaring (http://artofcellaring.com). Keck, of course, became a leading figure in H-Town’s vibrant wine scene first as the somm at Uchi before running the show at Camerata and then laying the foundation for March’s extensive wine program.

In 2020, as COVID-19 was turning the hospitality industry upside down — and before March opened — he packed up and returned to his native Vermont to reinvent himself as a winemaker, “the most humbling experience I’ve ever had,” he concedes. But his Stella XIV Wines business (http://stella14wines.com) is helping put Vermont on the world’s wine map. You’ll find a nice story about Keck’s recent New England adventures at http://thinkvermont.com.

But subsequently things have gotten even more complicated. A hard freeze with frost on May 25 — May 25! — cost Keck 85 percent of his grape harvest for 2023. Therefore, he has taken a couple new “day jobs” such as partnering with groups such as the Rhone Valley Vineyards and working remotely for the AI wine-and-spirit firms http://preferabli.com to augment his income. His presentation was spot-on, of course. Keck knows his stuff and he’s a great entertainer. I thought I knew everything about the Rhone Valley. Boy was I wrong, and I’ll be sharing at least some of what I learned in a future blog.

I told Keck, “Don’t be a stranger. Come back and see us.” He promised he would.

The Sports Page

Raising a glass to . . . Jim Crane, Justin Verlander and Framber Valdez

August has been a great month for the Astros through the years, but they never had a day in August like yesterday. Crane, the best and brightest Houston owner team in history by far, is always in it to win it NOW and that’s why Verlander returns after being on loan to the Mets for a few months. The news so juiced Valdez, who hadn’t pitched well of late, that he tossed a 93-pitch no-no at Cleveland, the Astros’ fifth in the last five seasons — an historic major-league first. (Yep, Verlander had one of those, too, on Sept. 1, 2019.) Framber’s gem was the 16th no-hitter in franchise history and left the now-quaking-in-their-boots Texas Rangers just a half game up in the division standings.

Raising a glass to . . . Mark Berman

My great friend and longtime press box colleague surprised me by retiring recently, although his timing was perfect — before the start of Texans training camp, because there’s nothing worse than covering training camp. Berman was the sports anchor at Channel 26 for more years than either of us care to count, but he was also the hardest working reporter on the local sports scene. Not for nothing did we call him “Scoop.” He broke more stories than the rest of his TV colleagues combined. While it’s hard to picture Berman kicking back in the recliner Mattress Mack gave him for a going-away present, he swears his been-there-done-that time had come. Cheers, Scoop!

And to . . . Lawson Craddock

The 31-year-old Houstonian’s first Tour de France start — and finish — since 2018 proved a memorable one. Riding for Team Jayco Ulula, he completed cycling’s greatest race for the third time in three career starts. A personal highlight would be his fourth place finish in stage 15, a brutal day in the Alps near Mont Blanc when he led a dramatic breakaway. And his team boss, Simon Yates, copped fourth in the yellow jersey standings. Although this Tour lacked the poignant drama of five years ago, when Craddock broke his scapula during the first stage yet still pedaled — in last place — all the way to the Champs Elysees over three agonizing weeks (raising nearly $300,000 to repair the Hurricane Harvey-damaged Alkek Velodrome in the process), he said it best himself: “If you make it to the Tour de France, you’re doing pretty well.” Damn straight, Lawson!

And to . . . Case Keenum

The onetime fancy-passing Houston Cougar has come full circle, coming home to the Texans, where his NFL career began 11 years ago. An undrafted free agent, Keenum never left the practice squad as a rookie in 2012, then went 0-8 as a starter during the disastrous 2013 season. But he won both his starts a year later before moving on to the Rams –playing in both St. Louis and Los Angeles — Minnesota, Washington, Cleveland and Buffalo. Replacing the injured Sam Bradford, he led the Vikings to the brink of the Super Bowl in 2017. Here, he’ll help mentor rookie top draft pick C.J. Stroud and serve as an all-around positive veteran presence in the Texans locker room. Fact is, Keenum should be raising a glass to himself, given that he’s also part owner of the Haak Vineyards & Winery down in Sante Fe.

But pouring one out for . . . Bob West

Another great sports journalist passed this week. West was a beloved and revered columnist in Port Arthur for decades and I had the privilege of spending lots of time with him back in the Luv ya Blue Oilers era. Nobody got closer to his fellow Golden Triangle homey Bum Phillips than Bob. RIP, my friend.

 H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Stella’s Wine Games — 7 p.m. Tuesdays at Stella’s Wine Bar in the Post Oak Hotel. $50. http://www.thepostoakhotel.com/restaurants/Stellas-Wine-Bar/Stella-Wine-Games.asp

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

X: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “

Racially charged comments posted on Facebook yesterday by Friulian grape grower and winemaker Fulvio Bressan have sparked outrage in the online food and wine community.

In a statement evidently addressed to Italian integration minister Cécile Kyenge — Italy’s first African-Italian minister — Bressan offered his opinion on a recently implemented government program that provides temporary housing for undocumented immigrants . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “Until earlier this year, Grüner Veltliner was not in my Texas wine lexicon. But, there it was. My first thought was how could this be so?After all, Austria is a cool winegrowing region, right? Texas is actually the opposite, being described politely as a “warm” winegrowing region, and less than politely as just “damn hot . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme. Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre) . . . “

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Sure, for those in the know, my title for this article is a no-brainer. But if you’re not in the know, please be sure to check out my article on the work that John Rivenburgh is doing through his Kerrville Hills incubator for the Texas wine industry. You can find it over at the Vintner Project: “John Rivenburgh & his Kerrville Hills Incubator Propel Texas Wine Growth.” I had a great time talking to John about what he does as well as getting the perspectives of others in the industry who have worked with him. He really is great for Texas wine . . .”

Sippin’ with Sporty July 2023

Updated July 22

I’ve had a great run of tasting experiences lately, including some remarkable reds. But, sorry, it’s too damned hot to talk about red wine today, although my fellow wine bloggers Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com) and Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com) both ferreted out smart options as you’ll read below. Anyway, these were my favorite bottles of bubbles and rosés, plus a lovely debut sauvignon blanc from my old friends at Alexander Valley Vineyards.

BUBBLES

Champagne Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Extra-Brut

From the winemaker: “A straw gold color and very fine bubbles. Its delicate hue comes from to the use of a high percentage of chardonnay (33 percent) and of the first pressing only. The first aromas reveal the citrus character of the chardonnay, such as lime and grapefruits. Red fruit aromas then come out, including redcurrant, raspberry, morello cherry – typical pinot noir (45 percent). On leaving the wine to open up, candied fruits, even exotic fruits of pinot meunier appear with aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is lively. The nose is confirmed by the first taste, including citrus, almonds, toasted bread and “brioche”… but also redcurrant jelly, and dark fruits like cherry, fig or blackberry. The palate is full, quite long, with a very clean finish. Elegant, but not without complexity, this wine perfectly illustrates the house style.”

From me: Paillard was born in Reims in 1953 into a family already several generations steeped in the champagne trade — but only as grape growers and brokers. He, too, began his career as a broker before, at the age of 27, launching the first new champagne house in his neighborhood in nearly a century. Fourteen years later he had done well enough to purchase his first vineyard, three grand cru hectares in Oger in the Côte des Blancs. Today, his daughter Alice runs the show. Their bubbles are as good as bubbles from Champagne get at this price point.

$60.99 at Spec’s

2015 Artesa Codorníu Grand Reserve Brut

From the winemaker: “Continuing the grand tradition of Cavas Codorniu, which dates back to 1872, this Brut was produced using old world methods, and taking benefit of the incredible quality of the grapes farmed in our beloved region of Los Carneros, Napa Valley. It displays beautiful, fragrant aromas of pear, honeydew and apricot. Uplifting citrus flavors and fine bubbles are wrapped in crisp acidity, yet the round, creamy mouthfeel that comes from the wines years of lees contact persists through a lingering finish. Over time, the sparkling wine will continue to develop complexity.”

From me: A friend introduced me to this sparkler, which is available only through Artesa, and I’ll be internally thankful for that. It’s a tad pricey for what can only be described as an American Cava but still worth every penny.

$60 at http://shop.artesawinery.com

Pierre Spar Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé

From the winemaker: “Salmon pink color with fresh aromas of soft red berries, predominantly strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, round and fruity with hints of peach. The flavors are intense, with lively acidity framed by a well-made structure and delicate bubbles. The finish is smooth, clean and dry.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which score it a 90: “Yeasty mellowness is all that the shy nose gives away. The dark-pink hue of this wine promises body and fruit, which duly appear on the creamy palate. Mellow strawberry and apple pair with gentle freshness. A chalky texture supports the frothy foam while freshness highlights the dry roundness of the finish.”

From me: Maison Pierre Sparr knows its stuff. The Sparrs have been producing cremant since 1680. Made from pinot noir grown in Alsace’s prestigious Hau Rhin, it’s a superb bargain. It’s yet another bottle of excellent bubbles introduced to me by a friend. No man is an island, right?

$21.99 at Whole Foods

ROSÉS

Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2021

From the winemaker: “A pink appearance like raspberry, expressive nose with notes of little red berries. On the palate, the wine is very balanced and in line with the nose. The palate is full with a long length. Good acidity provides a tense finale. Beautiful complexity, fine, fresh, fruity and elegant.

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 93: “Pale garnet in color and gorgeously perfumed with blossoms and watermelon, this crisp, blackberry-flavored rosé juxtaposes zesty black fruit flavors against a deep, penetrating undertone of crushed stone and spice. A stately expression of Tavel that’s likely to drink beautifully year-round.”

From me: Tavel’s are unique because it’s France’s only AOC permitted to produce rose and rose only. Trinquevedel owner Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm these vineyards, which were purchased along with a ramshackle chateau by his great-grandfather in 1936. But it took 24 more years to get the grapes up to snuff. Note that it was Louis XIV who first put Tavel on the map. The pink wines from the sunny region were almost all the Sun King drank.

$19.79 from http://wine.com

2022 Scaia Rosato Veneto

From the winemaker: “This Rosato is a pink-hued wine made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella grape variety that is not often seen on its own. It’s fresh and floral and delightfully refreshing.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 90: “A pale, tight and nervy rosé with aromas and flavors of apricot skin and orange peel. Medium-bodied with super-clean, crisp flavor. Nicely done.”

From me: The Scaia project, begun in 2006, was established by the four brothers behind Tenuta Sant’Antonio in eastern Valpolicella with the aim of creating wines with a modern style not constricted by the denomination system. Why Scaia? That’s a word in the Veronese dialect for crumbs, like little pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that break off the large block, which the soil resembles. It’s thought to impart a higher acidity and bolder fruit character to the wines.

17.99 at http://wine.com

WHITE

2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “There are aromas of tropical fruits, passion fruit, green apple, grapefruit and melon. Bright acidity is followed by fresh juicy flavors of citrus – lime, grapefruit, and lemongrass, along with a slight minerality. It’s a lively wine bottled with a stelvin closure to lock in the freshness.”  

From me: The newest member of the AVV family — a double gold medalist in the 2023 North Cosat wine Competition — it was made from fruit grown in the Croft Vineyard, a unique parcel on the southern edge of the Alexander Valley that sits in a saddle 700 feet above the valley floor, allowing the fog from the coast to penetrate early in the morning. That cools off the vines and extends the hang-time for the grapes. Et voilà!

$24 at http://shop.avvwine.com (Or $26 at Porta’Vino)

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Wagyu and Wine Night: 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 26, at R-C Ranch. http://eventbrite.com $100

An Evening with Ridge Vineyards’ David Gates: 6:30-8 p.m., Thursday, July 27, at Vault & Vino. RSVP to JAMESBARLOW@SPECSONLINE.COM $50

Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.

Nickel and Nickel Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

SERCA Gran Corte Vertical Tasting: 4-6 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 26, at the SERCA Tasting Room. SERCA Wines – Upcoming Events $80 ($64 members)

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “Thanks to my teaching gig at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, I’ve been making at least two or more trips to the region every year for the last eight vintages. That’s been great news for my Jewish boy stomach: Piedmont is home to what is arguably my favorite dish of all times — vitello tonnato . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “For Galveston Monthly’s July issue, I wrote about chillable red wines to beat the heat during the hot days of summer and beyond. Try one of these wine recommendations and keep your cool today . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “As long as it’s 76 F inside, I can pretend that it is late October with the low-humidity wind coming nicely out of the north. But, now… what wine? After a search of my wine cooler, I found it…”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

Embarking on a catchup pinot noir tasting, the DC writes: “I am currently experiencing a phenomenon that I could not have fathomed a decade ago: I am awash in samples. According to my inventory, I am currently hovering around 200 bottles that were sent to me to taste. Since I am a bit of a math geek, I did some calculations: If I average going through 15 bottles a week (three a day—I try not to “work” on the weekend), that comes out to about 13 weeks of wine . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “If you’ve followed my adventures to Oregon wine country here and here (to name a couple) you know that I’ve got mad love for the wines of the entire state! Since the dreaded ‘Rona reared its ugly head, there has been so much going on there with some really notable changes. Of course, we were all locked down and some of it sorta went unnoticed. Emerging from the pandemic, the changes have continued. One of the big changes has been the creation of additional Willamette Valley AVAs. American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) is just a fancy way of saying a designated region. And for Oregon, it’s a big deal . . .”

Tony Parker’s journey from hoops to grapes

Updated June 11

Back in February I was planning to write about Tony Parker’s buying a piece of the La Mascaronne winery in Provence, and we had a nice phone conversation about same. Despite his French roots, Parker gave most of the credit for his becoming a serious oenophile to Greg Popovich. The San Antonio Spurs coach was a super-serious collector and, to his credit, Pop wasn’t the least bit hesitant to pop corks on special bottles with his players.

But he proved real hesitant talking about same. The man is a superb coach with five championship rings, but he’s also intensely private away from the arena, and it didn’t help that Pop was enduring his worst season ever with the Spurs. I got nowhere trying to nail down a wine-centric chat with him, so my story stayed in limbo.

Fortunately.

Had it been written after our first interview, some rather significant stuff wouldn’t have made the piece, which finally ran Sunday in the San Antonio Express-News (Spurs legend Tony Parker toasts to the future (expressnews.com). In mid-March, the news broke that Parker would be going into the Basketball Hall of Fame this summer — along with Popovich. Then, in May, the Spurs won the right to make Victor Wembanyama the first pick in NBA draft.

Parker is France’s greatest basketball player ever. But, should he ever loses that title, it’s likely going to be claimed by the 7-3 Wembanyama, who, like Parker did back in the day, will make his NBA debut at 19 this fall. Needless to say, a second conversation with Parker would be required and it happened the morning after the Spurs called Wembanyama’s name.

Tony said he’d been doing interviews with French journalists for more than an hour before we hooked up and many more were scheduled. He promised to text me with the wines he’ll be tasting once he’s officially a member of the Hall of Fame — that happens Aug. 12 in Springfield, Mass. — and we discussed a rendezvous at La Mascaronne in September, when he’ll be there for his second harvest. My home in the Southern Alps is less than three hours from the winery, located in the Var above St. Tropez, and it’s a beautiful drive. Can’t wait to clink glasses with him.

But you don’t have to fly to Provence to taste the excellent La Mascaronne lineup. The wines are available in Houston at French Country Wines, 2433 Bartlett, in Rice Village (http://frenchcountrywines.com).

The Miraval mess

Speaking of Provence, If you’re curious about how Chateau Miraval devolved from being a very good under-the-radar rosé to mass-produced plonk, check out the latest issue of Vanity Fair: https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2023/06/brad-pitt-angelina-jolie-miraval-rose-divorce While the story is primarily about the nasty “Brangelina” break up, the inside stuff about the winery was fascinating, too. Key fact: Under Tom Bove, who sold Miraval to the now-divorced Hollywood power couple, production had been 150,000 bottles annually. When Pitt partnered with the Perin family (Château Beaucastel), Bove said it skyrocketed to 10 million. That explains everything.

In fairness, the wine has gotten better over the last couple of years, but it’s still way down on my list of favorite pinks from Provence.

Bove, by the way, was also the proprietor of La Mascaronne before selling that property to Parker and the French entrepreneur Michel Reybier. In its case, however, there has been no drop-off whatsoever in quality.

Breaking news

Pastore Italian kitchen (https://pastorehouston.com/) has finally opened on Dunlavy in the same complex as George James, but it’s hardly the casual red-sauce and pasta joint chef Chis Shepherd seemingly envisioned before he parted ways with his Underbelly Hospitality investors suddenly last year. Rather, it’s starkly sleek and sophisticated space with a seafood-centric “coastal Italian” menu and a small but tantalizing wine list presided over by sommelier Zach Newman, who was previously part of Mollie Austad’s wine team at Bluedorn.

Newman inherited the Pastore list and, although there’s nothing to fix, he’ll surely want to put his own stamp on it going forward. When I popped in recently with Jody Schmal, my former Houston Chronicle Flavor Section editor, Newman sold us on the Ca’ Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Edizione 45 from Franciacorta in Lombardy at $75. Bravo, Zach.

“Pastore,” fyi, means “shepherd” in Italian and Georgia James is, of course, Shepherd’s mother’s name. So he’s still part of same, even if he isn’t.

Sippin’ with Sporty

Pink

2020 Natura Rosé

From the winemaker: “Fragrance reminiscent of bunches of fresh strawberries. Bright, fresh red fruit flavors are silky and elegant on the palate. Slightly off-dry with good acidity. Delicate and easy to drink.”

From James Suckling, who scored it a 91: “Pristine, Pure and the freshest rosé possible. The organically grown grapes are handpicked in March, sorted and then directly pressed. Vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks with gentle pump overs and delicate lees stirring. The wine is aged for three months in stainless steel tanks and is filtered prior to bottling. Bright light pink. Bouquet: Intense fruity aromas, such as cherry and black currant. Taste: Good body, silky and elegant on the palate. Tremendously fresh, fruity, and balanced. Delicate and easy to drink.”

From me: What he said, and what a price! I love Costco.

$9.49 at Costco

White

2021 Laird Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc

From the winemaker: “The eye-catching clear white gold color is followed by tantalizing aromas of lemongrass, key lime pie, guava, and lilikoi. The palate is a continuation of the aromatic journey with flavors reminiscent of Thai basil, grapefruit, white peach, and elderflower. This wine is gleaming with lively acidity and rounded out by a strikingly smooth finish.”

From me: From what’s truly a family operation that dates back to 1970, when Ken Laird bought a 70-acre plot covered with scraggly prune trees on Tubbs Lane near Calistoga, it’s a splendidly fruit-forward gem made from sav blanc fruit grown in Napa Valley’s Big Ranch Vineyard.

$30 at http://lairdfamilyestate.com

Red

2021 C. L. Butaud PaPa Frenchy Red  Wine

From the winemaker: “Soft sandalwood, taut black cherry, and graham cracker crust aromas give way to a spirited palate, elevated by gentle acidity. There is a focused texture on the entry that migrates to the edges of your mouth, with bright red fruits from the grenache (60 percent), herbed ham flavors from the mourvèdre, and sweet tobacco from the tempranillo. The succinct and structured finish is reminiscent of the crispness of fresh strawberry seeds.”

From me: The wine, and the winery’s name, is an homage to winemaker Randy Hester’s great grandfather, Clet Louis Butaud, whose friends called him “Frenchy.” Frenchy would be proud of this bottle, which represents outstanding value.

$18 at http://clbataud.com

H-town Happenings

Free Tastings every Saturday: Noon-5 p.m. at French Country Wines. http://frenchcountrywines.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in the Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40

Women of Wine Charities 9th Sangria Throwdown: 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 12, at Mercedes Benz of Houston Greenway. https://www.wowcharities.org/sangria2023/ $95

Avignonesi Wine Dinner with Giuseppe Santtarelli: 7 p.m. Wednesday, July 19, at Roma. 713 664-7581 $99

Drop It like It’s Hot: An Evening of Savory, Sweet & Wine: Seatings at 6 p.m. and 7:45 p.m. Thursday, July 27, at Fluff Bake Bar. (fluffbakebar.com, drinkwithdodie.com). $125.

Nickel and Nick Winery dinner: 6 p.m. Thursday, Aug. 10, at the Atkins House. http://eventbrite.com $130

Platinum Wine Vault Luxury Tasting Event: 6:30-9 p.m. Friday, Aug. 11, at Bayway Cadillac in The Woodlands. https://www.wineandfoodweek.com/events/2023/platinum-wine-vault-2023

Women & Wine Empowerment Weekend: 10 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 12, at Norris Conference room at CityCentre. http://eventbrite.com $97-$1,500.

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “What an incredible year it’s been already! From Lucciola in New York City to The Wine Country in Long Beach, California; from Pasta And… in Margate, Florida to Cry Wolf in Dallas and Davanti in Houston. Over the last six months, I’ve had the opportunity to interact with some of the brightest and best people in our business . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”  

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “I made an interesting comparison between what I called our Texas red sandy loam over porous caliche limestone and the coveted red sandy loam and limestone found in the Australian Coonawarra wine region that they called “Terra Rossa”. Literally the next day from half the world away, I received a comment to my blog coming back at me from seasoned wine critic Philip White who has written for Australia’s major newspapers and many magazines worldwide. White said that I had a bad case of “Coonawarra Envy . . .”  

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “When I first started writing about wine, I really never envisioned that wineries would actually send me wine to review on this site. Sure, I secretly hoped it would happen, but I really harbored no illusions that my furtive desire would come to fruition. Fast forward nearly a dozen years into this blog and I still am a little flabbergasted that I receive wines on a regular basis. While I genuinely feel fortunate to receive any wines from producers, there are certainly some boxes that elicit euphoria, and at the top of that list is Tongue Dancer Wines . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “Oh Zinfandel, I was wrong! Zinfandel, America’s Heritage Wine, as it is referred to by some, is literally living American history. As a person who legit went out of her way to avoid Zinfandel, my anti-Zin stance started to thaw several years ago when I attended a master class on the grape and got to experience several iterations of the wine from various producers. Before then, a couple of bad experiences made me (wrongly) assume that Zin was just an alcoholic fruit bomb with very little substance or complexity. While I was indeed thawing, I still wasn’t all the way there. However, after attending a three-day wine and food extravaganza dedicated solely to Zinfandel . . .”

Sippin’ with Sporty, June 2023

We got the band back together last week, which is to say my Chronicle panel convened for a too-long-in-coming reunion. But this was real work like in the good old days, not an excuse to have a party. We blind-tasted our way through 36 wines and the stars of the show follow, scored as always on my 20-point scale — a maximum of 10 for quality (average score from the panelists) and 10 for value, which I assign.

2022 Kirkland Cotes de Provence Rose

Score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)

From the http://costcowineblog.com: “Nice strawberry, peach flavors with a little orange creamsicle twisted in. Light to medium in body. Crisp and refreshing; just what you want in rosé, and pairs nice with warm weather, but can go with about anything.”

From our tasters, eight of whom scored it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Fresh, with a touch of salinity. A dry classic rose.”

From me: It’s grenache/cinsault-centric (two-thirds of the blend) with syrah, carignan, tibouren, vermentino and ugni blanc playing strong supporting roles. Offers off-the-charts value in this bottle, folks

$7.99 at Costco

2021 J. Lohr South Ridge Syrah Paso Robles

19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “Deeply colored with vibrant purple and magenta hues. Varietal aromas of black cherry and fresh blueberry are accented by black tea, bergamot, and lilac. The juicy and spicy structure of this northern Rhône cultivar is lengthened and lifted by the inclusion of grenache, mourvèdre, roussanne, and viognier.”

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral nose. Ripe fruit on the palate. Chewy tannins. Delicious.”

From me: Another screaming steal at this price. Fifteen bucks? Are you kidding me?

$15 at http://jlohr.com

2022 Rouge-Bleu Dentelle Mediteranée Blanc

Score: 19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “Named after our local mountain chain, Dentelle is a fruit driven, ready to drink wine which will charm wine connoisseurs and novices alike by its elegance and approachability.”

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Floral and fruity. Apple and spice notes.”

From me: Rouge-Bleu, in the Sainte-Cecille AOC on the Rhone Valley floor, proved an excellent stop on my recent South of France wine tour. This bargain gem is a kitchen-sink blend of vermentino, marsanne, clairette blanc, roussanne, viognier, grenache gris, bourboulenc, grenache blanc, gros manseng, chenin blanc, muscat petits grains, carignan blanc and picpoul.

$20 at French Country Wines in Houston

2020 Greenwing Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

19 (9 for quality, 10 for value)

From the winemaker: “This vivacious cabernet sauvignon displays enticing aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry, loamy earth and a hint of desert sage. The bright red berry layers are echoed on the lively palate, with supple tannins and juicy acidity framing the generous fruit and carrying the wine to a long, graceful finish.” 

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.2: “Ripe dark fruit, pronounced tannins. Spicy!”

From me: The Columbia Valley is located between the 46th and 47th parallels, the same as Bordeaux (and Burgundy). Winemaker Brian Rudin couldn’t have asked for better cabernet terroir than he’s got in the wilds of Eastern Washington.

$33.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain

18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)

From the winemaker: “This lush and alluring cabernet begins with aromas of ripe strawberry, grenadine and Bing cherry that leap from the glass, followed by notes of sarsaparilla, root spices, black licorice cinnamon and star anise. On the palate it is both luxurious and energetic, with plush tannins and ripe red berry flavors balanced by enlivening energy and sophisticated hints of cigar wrapper, granitic minerality and sweet baking spices.

From our tasters, six of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Lively nose and palate. Casis and dark berry flavors.”

From James Suckling, who awarded at score of 92: “Aromas of grated nutmeg, black and red currants and wild herbs. Full-bodied with firm tannins. Fresh acidity and ripe fruit create a pleasant dynamic on the palate. Well balanced.”

From me: Like it’s Duckhorn brethren Greenwing, it’s named for a duck. It’s also made by Rudin, who clearly has a great grasp of his great terroir.

$36.99 at http://wine.com

2019 Decoy Limited Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

18.6 (9.1 for quality, 9.5 for value)

From the winemaker: “This alluring pinot noir offers vibrant aromas of red cherry and raspberry, as well as hints of savory spices and forest floor. On the palate, silky smooth tannins and refined notes of toasted French oak accentuate the lush flavors, while carrying the wine to an elegant red berry and spice finish.”

From our tasters, five of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.5: “Full-bodied, well-balanced. Should be age-worthy.”

From the Wine Enthusiast, which scored it a 90: “Working with vineyards from Green Valley, Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap, this wine is juicy, delicate and citrus-driven in style, laced with strawberry, pomegranate and grapefruit tones. The tannins build on the midpalate as a toasted oak accent provides lushness to the finish.”

From me: Pinots at this price point don’t get much better. But the California Decoy from the 2021 vintage didn’t do badly either, earning five scores of 9 or higher, and it’s five bucks cheaper.

$30 at http://decoywines.com

2019 Cuvaison Small Lot Arcilla Merlot Napa Valley

18.3 (9.3 quality, 9 value)

From the winemaker: “Our 2019 Merlot Arcilla is a powerhouse style of Merlot, rife with black cherry, sandalwood, coffee, and cocoa nib notes. On the palate the wine is expansive and rewards with cherry and blackberry fruit, silky tannins, and an earthy, spicy finish that is both savory and inviting. Emblematic of a cool vintage, this merlot, rooted in Arcilla clay soils, shows the richness and elegance of merlot perfectly matched to its terroir.

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Round and ripe with blackberries and mint flavors front and center.”

From me: Pay attention to the “small lot” designation. Fewer than nine cases were made so it won’t be available for long.

$70 at http://cuvaison.com

2019 Emeritus Pinot Noir Pinot Hill East

18.2 (9.2 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “Like Pinot Hill itself, this wine seems to exist on that borderline between cool coastal fog and wind and the fleeting warmth of the sun. The influence of the Pacific is echoed in the mélange of sweet and savory flavors, with aromas of ocean air and dried strawberries mingling with notions of sesame oil and sunflowers. The tannins are taut like a bowstring, providing a flexible quality that adds energy to the rich red berry flavors as they glide to a bright, soaring finish. This is a fabulous food wine that should be served just a touch warmer than cellar temperature.”

From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.4: “Rich, ripe and savory . . . Complex.”

From me: All four Emeritus pinots in the tasting — Hallberg Ranch, Pinot Hill and Pinot Hill West were the others — scored extremely well, but the East proved best. In case you’re wondering, Pinot Hill is in the Sebastopol Hills southwest of the town of Sebastopol, the coolest sub-region of the Russian River Valley.

$78 at http://emeritusvineyards.com

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars La Pressa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Los Osos District

18.1 (9 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “Sauvignon Blanc yearns to be wild, but has such extraordinary style when it is tamed. With our over 30 years of refinement, we know this sweet spot of warmer days and cool evenings nurtures balance in our wines. I am excited to return to this historic old vine source that I worked with 25 years ago, and to bring this Old World Varietal back to its graceful expression.”

From our tasters, eight of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Bright and lively with expressive minerality and acidity.”

From me: Fiddlehead Cellars’ Kathy Joseph, a Santa Barbara County wine-making pioneer, describes her oak-barrel-aged sauvignon blanc style as being “textural.” What it isn’t is “green.” (Which is to say New Zealand sav blanc.) Fans of the movie “Sideways” will recall Joseph conversing with Paul Giamati’s Miles character about the Fiddlehead Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc. She tells him it spent 12 months in oak. He replies, “This is good. Little hints of cloves.”

$36 at http://fiddleheadcellars.com

2019 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

18 (9 for quality, 9 for value)

From the winemaker: “This is an elegant wine with earthy aromas of cassis, plum, black cherry, vanilla, oak, chocolate and a slight cola note. In the glass there are lush flavors of cherry, cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The 2019 is a structured wine with firm tannins and a chewy finish that evolves with each sip. While fruit forward upon release, this wine will reward those with the patience to lay down a few bottles.”

From our tasters, seven of whom gave it at least a 9 with a high score of 9.3: “Yummy blackberries.”

From James Suckling, who awarded a score of 91: “Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and crushed sage. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Lean and focused on the palate with solid depth. Dry finish. Drink now.”

From me: Jordan remains a reference-standard cab for me. After 13 years working in the winery’s cellar, Maggie Kruse made her winemaking debut with this vintage and she nailed it.

$60 at http://jordanwinery.com

H-town Happenings

Tutti Quanti Italian Market wine tasting: 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, June 27. Free. http://eventbrite.com

Tasting Thursdays at Cueva in Marriott Marquis Houston: 6:30-7:30 p.m. every Thursday. $40. http://eventbrite.com

Sparkling wine tasting with mini-brunch bites: Noon Sunday, July 9, at We Olive & Wine Bar. $35-$140. http://eventbrite.com

Truly Greek, Truly Unique Wine Tasting: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, July 13 at JMP Wines Tasting Room. $75. http://eventbrite.com

Follow me

Podcast: Sporty Wine Guy, wherever you get your podcasts.   

Instagram: http://@sportywineguy

Twitter: @sportywineguy

Facebook: Dale Robertson

Others to follow

Jeremy Parzen (http://dobianchi.com)

My podcast partner in crime writes: “From my colleague Nicola Perullo at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont to leading sommelier and author Pascaline Lepeltier in New York City, wine thinkers across the world are trying to forge a new language — a new dialectic — to describe the tasting experience. If ever the twain were to meet, I doubt they would agree on much — except for one thing: the hegemony of the 20th-century tasting note (and score) must be disrupted for Westerners to continue to evolve as tasters . . .”

Sandra Crittenden (http://winelifehouston.com)

Sandra writes: “I was very excited to visit the Asolo DOCG Prosecco region at the end of May on a press trip as it is an Italian area that I have not previously traveled through. Asolo is located in the Province of Treviso at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills to the west of the Piave River with views of the Dolomites. The grapes are grown in 17 communes surrounding the town of Asolo . . .”

Russ Kane (http://vintagetexas.com)

The Texas Wineslinger writes: “About a week ago, Austin-based Denise Clarke and her Texas Fine Wine wineries had another of their quarterly Talk and Taste sessions on Zoom. This one was “Summer Sippers” and offered wine suggestions for quenching our summertime thirst. And, it couldn’t have come at a better time as in Houston we are moving into the 100-102 F range and in the hill country temperatures are blazing at 105-107 F… It’s bloody hot all over the state, if you ask me. Check out these four “Summer Sippers”, a quench from Texas Fine Wine . . .”

Jeff Kralick (http://thedrunkencyclist.com)

The DC writes: “I am out of town again this week, first in San Diego as a wine judge for the Critics Challenge and then to Austin for another basketball tournament. As I usually do when I am out of town, I revisit a Sundays Are For Sebastian, our fourteen-year-old soon-to-be sophomore in high school(!). This one comes from four years ago when he was ten . . .”

Katrina Rene (http://thecorkscrewconcierge.com)

Kat writes: “And just Iike that – it’s June. School is out. Thank God! And I swear it seems that EVERYONE is on vacay! I definitely need to join them. If you’re headed out to Texas Wine Country, there are plenty of fun events. In fact, I need to give a special shoutout to Texas wineries. Their wines performed amazingly well as last month’s 2023 TEXSOM International Wine Awards, taking home 168 awards. Texas wine continues to shine . . .”